I spoke to a mechanic and he told me that lowering my car would make my insurance null and void and also ruin the handling on my car.

Is this true?

 

your insurance wont be null, but itll be higher than if it wasnt lowered.

and thats true about handling as well, unless you wanna invest 500+ into a suspension setup to compensate for it.

also, if you lower too much you put stress on the axles as well as many other parts - stress that wouldnt be there if it was stock height.

plus dude you live in boca, i live in delray. i dunno where you are in boca, but delray has like 3 sets of train tracks i drive over everyday. a lowered car would be a nightmare.

 

not sure what you guys are talking about...insurance won't know that you have a lowered car. Why would your insurance go up or null? And lowering your car gives better handling not worse. It cuts body roll when the car is lowered. More than 2" will cause problems sometimes with other parts being stressed but a normal lowered stance will be fine and not be a pain going over train tracks...

 

i drove a lowered accord for three weeks around here before selling it. i had to slow to a crawl before hittin those tracks. it sucked.

and yes insurance goes up on any modded car. a) the car is no longer stock - in the eyes of an insurance company, performance modifications alter stock safety equipment and make the car more "hazardous" (unsafe to the driver) and b) modified cars are driven by "statistically unsafe drivers" (when its in fact the opposite - people who spend 4k on aftermarket **** tend to be better quality drivers than a soccer mom in an Expedition) meaning to the insurance company, modded cars are owned by young males who drive erratically and are more prone to collisions. yea it sounds crazy i know, but i went through this with geico (a POS company, stay away from them) on my accord.
and how would they know? becuase you are honest. the same way they know if you have ABS or dual front airbags. the same way they know how you will be planning on using your car - daily commuter, sport, job related, etc. if you lie to get certain rates and then get into an accident 3 months later and the adjuster comes to inspect the car, they could alter your compensation, or even fully deny it.

and yea i understand lowering your center of gravity would make the central mass lower to the ground and would take more force to move it, but the flipside of that coin is that your shocks/springs dont have as much flex or movement when they are reduced in size by 1.5 or 2.5 inches. though i guess it can be argued either way. would be a good question for a physics teacher.
im taking most of this from my experience with a 2.5 '' lowered accord. i have never driven a lowered maxima.

 

Ok well as i said..more then 2" causes a problem. Yeah 2.5" will cause a problem going over train tracks. They might not have as much flex but they are also stiffer than stock. And I've never heard of anyone with a modified car being denied payment if they were in an accident. You're also basing all your knowledge on one car, and one insurance company.

 

only if they lied about it when gettin the initial premiums
THAT is what voids your coverage.

 

yeah thats a totally different scenario then modifying your car. If you have any car and lie about details they can deny payment and all. If you modify your car after you have insurance they can't just deny payment just because it's modified. If a car hits you the company cant say no we won't pay since its a modified car. And a court won't say, oh modified car, nope no payment.

 

yea thats what i was sayin

 

Ok, I did some research and found some 4-way speakers that sound fantastic in my car. The problem is that they don't fit 100% correctly on the mounting points. As such, I get viberation on bass hits.

Most of the time I keep the volume down so it doesn't hit so hard (and I don't go deaf) but from time to time I crank the **** out of it. Love the sound, hate the vibe.

I was planning on using a clear silicone sealent to firm things up, but I'm not convinced that this is a good idea. I'm not worried about getting the speakers out, the gel is pretty easily cut with an exacto knife, but essentually glueing something in if it doesn't quite fit has the feeling of ghetto to me.

Is there a better way?

 

put dynomat between the speaker

 

Is it possible to drop a V8 into my V6?
I know this is a stupid question but I just want to know if it's possible.

 

With enough money and R&D then it could be.....

is it worth it.....probably not.

 

yea not possible unless you want to spend lots of time and money to make it fit and all that.

 

I'm sure it'd be cheaper than buying a new car.
My max has 150k on it.
By the time it hits 200k I plan on dropping some $$ on either a new engine or a new max that's already tuned up.

 

personally at that point i'd just put it into a new car that you know wont have as many problems as on where you made a v8 fit where a v6 was meant to be.

 

so what exactly is a popcharger? basically what im asking is whats the difference from a normal cone air filter and a pop charger? is there any difference?

 

No...they are both the same thing...pop charger is just the "technical" name.

 

Also Known As........ WAI, HAI, Hot-Air intake

 

IF I was to do it, here's what I'd do............... Find a crashed 96-98 dohc cobra mustang. Put it on a lift, use a sledgehammer & a welder.........

 

I basically want mass HP and torque that's loud, nasty and fast.

 

well you have a 3.0 maxima. Get a v8 muscle car if you want that. You can be fast and nasty and well i guess loud with a max but you are looking for something different.

 

My whole project is that I want the luxury and look of a maxima, (especially a 4th generation maxima) with the power and sound that comes from a V8 muscle car.

 

well you can't really have both. It's not a muscle car so you won't be able to get the sound. Even tho a lot of guys post that their exhaust sounds like a v8...it doesn't.

 

I figured that if a 2003 Dodge Ram 1500's V8 [w/ hemi] can haul a freakin ton, imagine what it would do to my max.

 

yeah it's a v8 thats great. It's got lots of torque. But a 3.5 in your max will haul a$$ too.

 

I can just imagine someone challenging me to a 1/4 mile in that sucker.

 

I have a small hole in one of my headlights and will replace it sometime soon. Output-wise, is the plastic-lense headlights on eBay much better than the glass-lense oem replacement for 95-96 Maximas? Note: oem is roughly $20 + shipping and plastic is $80 + shipping. Thanks

 

Output should be the same, maybe better with ebay since it's clear lens.

 

You should go oem on those. But why not get the 97-99 headlights while your at it, much better.

 

you're still thinking two different things. If you have a tuned 3.5 maybe turbo or supercharged in your car, it will be very fast on the 1/4. But again, you're still thinking a v8 is that great. Do you really need to pay that much for gas? I think you think that the v8 is always better. Just remember that it depends on what you're doing and motor and all. Yeah v8's have more torque so they can put out more acceleration, but a v6 can do just as well. I mean just as an example, an old v8 could get its *** kicked by a newer v6. So I really just think you're too obsessed with a v8 ha. Don't think that the v8 is always better. It depends.

 

yea, pulling a boat that truck would win. but on a flat road from 0 mph you would own (stock vs stock).

 

well see again that depends. I've seen some pretty fast v8 trucks. They might take time to start up but once they are going the haul. It's really a bad subject because there are just so many examples. Point is it's a maxima, you shouldn't be putting a v8 in it unless you just want to drag it. Even then, I wouldn't put in the v8.

 

Sorry I should have been more clear. That's what I meant, comparing oem replacement (95-96) or plastic lense (97-99), but I need to know is the output that much better? Thanks

 

'97 GLE Whenever I try to start it, cold or warm, it usually takes several tries (of about 5-8 seconds each try). Occassionally starts first try, mostly takes 2-4 tries. But does start. Runs great once started. Turns over at proper speed, judging by sound. Experienced mechanic said change Fuel Pressure Regulator, which I did this weekend. No change. Used to start almost instantly. FYI...I never touch Accelerator while starting (mabye I need to on this one). Have tried turning ignition ON and waiting 5-10 seconds, possibly to allow fuel pump to build pressure but does not seem to work. Seems like bad fuel pump or filter would not run so good once started, so Fuel Pressure Regulator made sense. I am stumped. Thanks for any assistance.

 

The motor i'm looking at is 330 hp with no mods, and thats in the truck.

 

haha ok lets drop this subject. If you want a v8 go ahead and try to drop the damn thing in. We'll see how your auto tranny holds up to it. Otherwise, let it go. You have a maxima and not a v8.

 

The seal around the LED strip on my spoiler has broke, moisture has gotten inside, and in turn all the LED's are now burnt out. I went to the dealer today and they wanted 267 + tax for just the strip... which is pretty expensive. What options do I have... besides calling every junk yard in town? Has anybody repaired it buy soldering new LED's on the strip? If so, is there a writeup about it somewhere I can read up on??

Thanks in advance

 

get a new spoiler from the org. It'll be pretty cheap here.

 

Yea man v8s pwn all....except when I watched an EVO put a mighty hurting on a charger srt8....so in the end its not always the size that matters....

 

I would say that the output has to be a whole lot better. Think about it, try shining a flashlight out a dirty foggy window, then try it out of a nice clear clean window. You should be able to see a world of a difference. The plastic lens will start to discolor and fade over time, but you can polish that thing back to new.