Yes you have a CA emissions 99 Maxima. If you have the money then I suggest installing a warspeed CA Y-pipe for HP gain. It's the 3rd y-pipe listed on this page

http://www.warpspeedperformance.com/...ti_i30_exhaust

 

ok if I am looking correctly than it is the 4th y-pipe listed...I am not really looking for performance or sound I kind of like my cars quiet in the exhaust area. will this warpspeed y-pipe make the car any louder?

 

I cannot speak for the CA spec but my FED spec warpspeed y-pipe sounds more farty than the OEM with pre-cats.

Is the leak coming from this exhaust part on the top left labelled 'SEC 140'?



If it's leaking there try having that 3 way catylst welded first beacuse they are not cheap. The OEM PN is B08A0-4L700 and it costs several hundred dollars

http://www.nissanpartszone.com/Page_...8&PageID=22194

 

Thanks for the response......yes it is leaking from that location you are talking about..good idea I am going to see if I can get it welded first

 

If it cannot be fixed then buy fed spec headers and y-pipe off eBay. It will cost less than the 3 way catylist

 

Again here is where my confusion is.....i have a cali emissions though so if I put fed headers and a ypipe than I would have a problem with my NYS inspection right?

 

You would only fail inspection in CA with FED spec headers and y-pipe. You just need to replace the left (front) header along with the y-pipe. Don't forget the gaskets. Here are the OEM PNs:

Left Header (FED) 14006-31U00

Y-pipe (FED) 14012-55U00

Shop and search around for the quality and price you prefer.

 

Hi guys, I am new to maxima.org. I have 1997 Maxima GXE with stock single din cassette stereo non bose. There is a double din PN-2260 non bose unit on Ebay. The seller noted the PN-2260 is from a 1999 Infiniti QX4. I thought that all QX4 came with BOSE headunits. Also on the cassette door of the PN-2260, it does not have the word BOSE.

1. If there is no BOSE on the cassette door is it a Bose headunit?
2. If it is non-bose headunit, do I need any new wiring?
3. Seller listed the headunit only fits, 1999-2000 Maxima, but ins't 1999 maxima a 4th gen like 1997? Can someone verify if size wise the PN-2260 will fit?

Thank you for the help.

 

Can somebody give me a list of what I will need for this modification?

 

In the Maxima, a Bose unit ALWAYS had the word BOSE on the cassette door. But with the Infiniti being a luxury car, it is possible that the word might have been left off. But I doubt that because a luxury car would want to boast that it had the high priced luxury part in it.

And the Infiniti being a luxury car, I also think that only the Bose was offered.

Looking at the wiring diagrams for the 99 QX4 and the 97 Maxima Bose and non-Bose, the radio wire harness connectors are the same size and shape. The wires going into the connectors are in the same order (i.e., the power is pin 10, antenna up is pin 5 and so on).

Physically the radio will fit any Nissan product of that age area. I used a 97 Bose unit in my 94 3rd gen Max. I took it out when the car got totaled and eventually sold it, but before I sold it, I put it in my 5th gen to test it.

But the face plate on the front was different. The 3rd gen Bose face plate was not the same as the 4th gen. And the 4th gen had 2 different face plates that I know of. The 5th gen face plate is way different. It has a curving front compared to the flat fronts of the 3rd and 4th gens.

This face plate thing will result in different Clarion part numbers. But Clairion also built the non-Bose radios for Nissan, so they also have Clarion part numbers.

But going back to the wiring diagrams, I think the QX4 radio is a Bose only. In the Maxima wiring diagrams, there are 2 sets, one for Bose and one for non-Bose because there are some differences. The QX4 only has one diagram, which matches the 5th gen Bose schematic, not the 4th gen. The QX4 wiring diagram shows a speaker amplifier unit that is mounted in the trunk of a 5th gen. This is why I think that the QX4 only offered the Bose radio.

The reason for the speaker amplifier is that the Bose radio sends a low power signal to the speakers and needs to be amplified. This has always been the case. The Maxima (and older Infinities) had the amplifier built into the individual speaker.

The low power speaker signal is the key. If you put a Bose radio in you car with regular standard non-Bose speakers, you'll be lucky if you hear anything.

You need to research the Clarion part number and verify if it is a non-Bose radio. If you cannot verify this, don't buy that radio off e-bay.

 

http://tatanko.boredmder.com/00VI_universal.html

 

Hey Guys, i Recently got my 1st car '98 max and its been doing this thing where it won't go past 2000 rpm and it will jerk and hump the ground if i do try to push it. also it looks like I'm redlining the whole time. I just installed a new cool air intake and MAF sensor. Its automatic.

 

What you are describing sounds like a bad MAF. If you are 120% sure that that new sensor is good, inspect the wiring carefully, especially the connector. Make sure that the contact pins in the connector haven't been pulled out.

 

Hi, thanks for answering my previous question. You were right and I ended up not buying the infinity one because it turned out to be a bose unit. I really just want the original cassette pn-9996 but they are around the same price as the double din units,
1. I was wondering if a PN-2213N CN405 from a 1999 pathfinder (6 speakers) non-bose will require any rewiring for my 1997 maxima(4 speakers) non bose?
2. Does the lettering at the end of the model number (PN-2213N/A/I) have any significance?
3. How would I know if the headunit require a security code, would it is say antitheft on the faceplate or is there a certain year where nissan started to make the headunit anti-theft?
4. CN405 has a clock button, meaning it will display the time. However for the 1997 maxima, the clock is on the dash. Will this cause the wiring to be different? I could care less about the clock, I really just need the cassette player to work haha

Thanks once again

 

On a 1997 SE, what would cause the speedo to completely Tach out the moment the ignition is turned on? I did a search, using several keywords and most of what i found was people had issues with the tachs but they didn't entirely tach out completely like mine. Mine does it when you just simply turn the key to the on position without it even being on...What would cause this and how do i go about fixing it?

 

The difference between the 4/6 speakers is that there could be 2 tweeters mounted in the windshield pillars. In the 97 Maxima, only the Bose system had them. There is no difference in the radio wiring, the tweeters are tapped into the front speaker wires. You can use the Pathfinder radio. The plugs on the back are the same as your Maxima.

It means something to Clarion, but I have no idea.

Nissan did not use security codes back then. Don't know about today.

The wire harness connections are the same for the 97 Maxima and the 99 Pathfinder radios.

If the radio has a clock function, it is built into the radio, not something external. Having a clock in the radio makes the car cheaper to build for the vehicle manufacturer. They don't have to design the dash for a clock, find someone to make the clock, buy the clock, install a clock in the car and stock replacements.

 

It is probably the gauge itself, but if you have a 98 or 99 with the digital odometer, it could also be the integrated circuit that runs the tach.

I don't know how you would test it. Nissan only sells the complete cluster, no individual parts. You can get an instrument cluster from the junk yard or e-bay to use as parts or install the whole thing. But if you swap out clusters, the odometer reading will be that of the car it came out of.

There are speedometer repair shops. Look one up in your area and talk to them and see what they have to say.

 

ok. Thank you. How about the clock? Which fuse runs the clock and door lights? Are they on the same circuit using the same fuse? Somehow the door courtesy lights won't come on anymore, and i'm assuming it's a 7.5A fuse, but i'm unsure as the google images show several formats for the fuse block layout and the cover itself with the diagram wasn't in the car when we bought it. The clock hasn't worked since we bought the car though. That's really bugging me.

 

The clock runs off of 2 fuses. One fuse is for keeping time and the other fuse is for lighting up.

Fuse # 40 is used for keeping time. This fuse also used by the horns, power antenna, dome light, door locks and more.

Fuse # 21 is used for lighting up the display. This fuse also used by the horns and power antenna.

The courtesy lights (or step lights) in the door get their power though fuse 26. If someone ever shorted the lamp contacts together while changing a light bulb, they blew out the power window switch.

To locate which fuse is what number, see the diagram on the top of page 3 in this link.

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Max...97/foldout.pdf

If you want the whole service manual:

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1997/

 

The socket worked great, then when i went to plug in my LED strip, i wasn't sure which wire was positive, which was negative so i tried them out. Got it first try, but had to put the leds down. came back and had to figure it out again, and that's when it stopped working. Turned the LEDs around backwards and now, they light up, but almost dim enough you don't realize they are lit...so there is a tiny bit of power still getting through. I guess i'll replace the window switch and see where that leads. Why does that blow so easily? Is it a factory defect? Having the LEDs turned around backwards wouldn't have blown it i would have though. They only correctly flow electricity one way I thought.

 

The way the step lights in the door work is that the light bulb has 12 volts on it all the time and the light is illuminated by being connected to ground. The dome light and the map lights by the rear view mirror are the same way.

With the step lights, the ground circuit is through the power window switch. And lots of people do blow out the switches. It is a poor design in my opinion. I wouldn't expect this to happen by plugging in a led light backwards, but who knows. That is one thing I will not try experimenting with on my car.

 

Thanks for the info. Definately a poor design to be so easy as to blow, yet, who knows. with automakers nowadays, i tend to think they intentionally design stuff to be easily blown/ruined so you have to come back and blow more money on more parts. Anyone ever converted their door lights to work off simple door switches like Hondas? I DO have a few of them new sitting around i could mess with.

 

The door switches that Nissan puts in connect to the the SECU body control module. The SECU then controls various things based on the door switches. Among them are the step lights, dome light, light around the ignition switch, the alarm and probably more.

If you were willing to add additional switches, you could easily do it.

Off the top of my head, you could also accomplish this with some wiring changes and a diode at each switch. You would cut 2 wires - the wire from the step light to the window switch and the wire that goes to the door switch. You would connect the wire from the step light to the door switch, then connect the diode negative lead to the door switch and connect the original door switch wire to the positive end of the diode. I'm pretty sure this would work, but would have to try it and test it before I guaranteed it.

 

hello, i have a 96 maxima, when i go to start it it, it comes on then cuts right back off. in order for me to get it to sty on, i have to apply so gas for a few seconds, sometimes longer. im thinking its either the fuel pump or filter, .. the electronics and fuses are all fine. any help with this would be greatly appreciated. i just purchased the car not to long ago so i dont know much of it's history.

 

The fuel filter is not it, although it might not be a bad idea to change it as pert of regular maintenance. A plugged fuel filter creates problems at high rpms, not idle.

And it is not the fuel pump. If you can keep the engine running by having your foot on the gas pedal, the fuel pump is working.

You have a cold engine problem. Maybe it is the ECTS (Engine Coolant Temperature sensor) maybe it is the fuel pressure regulator, maybe it is worn out spark plugs or something else.

 

Thought I would conclude my issue with the Tachometer pegging out at 8K once the ignition is turned on...Of course, being tired doing this at work, I never even thought once about taking any pictures. I did however Google one and found what I needed to be able to show you which screw.
The screw labeled TAM(IIRC) is the screw I'm referring to. Try this out if you're having issues with your tachometer not working correctly.

Step 1:Remove the screw I circled in PINK.
Step 2:Inspect screws washer/Printed Circuit Board(PCB) for galls, gashes, abrasions and corrosion. In my case, there was a tiny bit of corrosion on the PCB.
Step 3:CAREFULLY use a fairly dull flat bladed knife to scrape off any nasty stuff that shouldn't be there on the PCB. The screw you can use super fine sandpaper on. (600 grit is what I used).
Step 4:After cleaning, use a clean cotton cloth, or your shirt in my case and wipe clean the screw and PCB.
Step 5:Reinstall the screw but DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN IT!
Step 6:Check your work and see if this quick fix fixed your sporatic TACH issues.
Worked for me perfectly, and took me less than 20 minutes...And that's including a full gauge cluster LED light overhaul.

 

Hello from a first time user. I have a 1999 Maxima GLE that has the original muffler that needs to be replaced. The Max has 186,000 miles and I don't plan on doing major exhaust modifications but wondered what muffler could be an upgrade when not doing major mods? It would be great if someone in the community could make a recommendation. Thanks in advance.

 

A friend lost my key. I tried to get a new one made but the locksmith (and then the dealership) could not reprogram a new key. The dealership said I needed a new ecu (a $1000 part). I went on ebay and sent my ecu in to get fixed and they said nothing was wrong with it and refunded me and sent the ecu back.

What should I do now? Look for a used ecu?

Someone mentioned that the ecu may have had too many keys programmed on it and is full.

Thanks
Bart

 

The chip in the key is detected by the NATS module in the steering column by the ignition switch. The key code is then sent to the ECU by the NATS module. Possibility the NATS module has a problem.

Whoever told you that there might be too many keys programmed doesn't know what they are talking about. Yes, there is a limit as to how many keys you can program in. However, when you go to program key codes into the ECU, the procedure starts by erasing all key codes all ready in the ECU and every key that you have must be programmed into the ECU. You cannot add an additional key to the existing list of keys.

 

Hello, Everyone. My name is Chris. Thank you in advance for any advice. Warning: I don't know a lot about cars, so please bear with me.
I drive a '95 Maxima.

*** SHORT VERSION ***
I had power issues. Eventually found & replaced the 10a Meter fuse. Now the car won't make any attempt to start.
*********************


*** TL/DR VERSION ***
Thursday:
I was driving to my friend's house, I noticed my speed/tach/temp gauges were all at Zero. I was staying the night anyway, so I left it for morning.

Friday:
When I was making a trip to the store, my music suddenly went down to one speaker, then I noticed my clock was dimming. I turned off the a/c & stereo, then the clock came back up. As an extra test, I flicked my headlights on/off, and the clock went off as expected. I did some research and talked to my one friend who knows a little about cars, and decided a bad Alternator could be the issue. This seemed likely, as my friend had replaced it with an Alt from a UPullIt type place, 16 months prior.

Saturday:
My friend (also semi-car retarded) and I went to a UPull&Pay, got an Alt, then spent the rest of the day switching them out. I realize it shouldn't take that long, but hey... we'd never done it before.

Sunday:
Advance Auto for diagnostics.
They tested my old Alt... Fine.
Charged & tested my Battery (almost brand new)... Fine.
Then they tested the Alt we had put in / the battery In the car... No Communication.
So, not knowing what else to do, I took it to a Tire Kingdom (avoid) for further diagnostics. After hours of waiting, they told me I needed a new Alt. When I tried to explain that wasn't exactly the issue, they ignored me, told me it was, then tried to charge me over $500 for the part/labor. I told them I couldn't afford that, so he "changed a code" which instantly made it $380 (con). I told him I still couldn't afford that, paid for the diagnostic, then left.
I thought Maybe the old Alt & the "new" junk Alt just happened to both be bad, so I bought a new Alt ($120) from Advance Auto, switched it out myself, had them fully charge my battery, then took the car back for another diagnostic.
Still no communication between the Battery & Alt.

Monday:
Found a blown fuse.
10a Meter
A quick internet search showed that it could be connected to my issue.
I replaced it.
And This is where I'm stuck.
Now the car won't make Any attempt to start. (No clicks; Nothing)
The headlights/interior lights/blinking anti-theft light/horn all work... but that's it.
I thought maybe it had something to do with the anti-theft system. I no longer have the original key (it broke a while back), but from what I've read online, the Maximas didn't use a transponder until the 99's. (Is this correct?)

So, there I am. I recently moved to FL, & my first temp. job has already ended, so I don't have enough money to get a pro out here to look at it. But, obviously, I need the car fixed asap, so I can get another job.

Again, I Really appreciate any & all advice.

 

The fuse labeled "METER" (#13 in the schematics) supplies power to many things. One of them is the alternator. A 2nd fuse also supplies power to the alternator. It could also be blown.

It is fuse # 57, a 7.5 amp, that is in the fuse block under the hood between the battery and the fender. See the top of page 3 in the link below for fuse location.
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Max...95/foldout.pdf

You need to get hold of a volt meter and check and see what the battery voltage is, both with the car not running and running.

You are correct about the transponder key thing, it is not on your car. FWIW, the engine would still crank. In your case, try turning the key real hard, maybe you are developing a bad ignition switch.

Here is a thread on diagnosing a car that does not crank. It is for a 5th gen Maxima, but also applies the the 4th gen.

https://maxima.org/forums/5th-genera...rt-thread.html

In the second post, there is a photo of the starter that you will see when you take the air filter box out of the car. Test point C comes from the battery. Test Point A comes from the ignition switch in the steering column. If you jumper Test Points C and A, the starter should crank the engine. Be advised that the engine will only crank, it will not start when you do this, it would require other jumpers.

 

I have a 96 maxima. It was first showing a bad MAF sensor and knock sensor. Cleaned the MAF sensor with MAF sensor cleaner and the code went away and the car is still running terribly. (Rough idle, horrible gas mileage, hesitation when accelerating or under load). Then yesterday while driving the engine light came on but flashing. I checked the codes and recieved a cylinder 1 misfire. Started by changing the plugs and still show the code. Next I changed the coil pack and still showing cylinder 1 misfire and running poorly. Any ideas? Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

Clear the code. Swap coilpacks with another cylinder to see if the code moves to that cylinder. If it doesn't, well then you've got a bad injector.

 

*** FIXED!!! ***
I finally found a shop in town that wasn't looking to just rip me off. It ended up being a wiring issue under the interior fuse box.

Only cost $250 for the tow And labor. (Less than half of what Tire Kingdom wanted to do the job I told them I Didn't Need!)

 

^That's great to hear. Thanks for following up with the solution to your issue.

 

I guess the lesson here is don't take electrical problems to a tire place.

 

Hi, I was wondering if you can please offer some insight on my car problem.
1. For a few years now, my car has always have trouble starting when it's hasn't started for a few days or even a day when it's below 50 degrees. In order to start the car, I would apply gas or else the car would just die. But once I start it the car runs fine. I changed the starter twice in the past two years and sparks plug recently but the probablem is still there. The battery has been used for more than 5 years. Could a bad battery be the problem?

2. Also, my car is beginning to have unusual sounds in the engine. Here is the YouTube video, but it isn't very noticeable http://youtu.be/Dr_SdtAKLh0. I want to have the problem fixed but my mechanic is sayingit's an old car, nothing can be done. Is this a sign that my timing chain will snap? The car is 1997 and is at 198K. I would really like to use this car for another 5 years.
Thank you, any input is appreciated

 

First one could easily be your fuel pressure regulator.

 

Your 2nd problem sounds like metal rubbing on moving metal. This could be a bad bearing in the alternator or the a/c compressor clutch or the alternator belt tensioning pulley.

The first thing you need to do is find a mechanic that doesn't walk around with his head up his azz. A car can always, repeat always, be repaired. Your only concern is whether you can afford it.

And your timing chain won't break. It is a big, beefy chain. Find someone that knows about cars (your mechanic obviously doesn't qualify) and knows how to use a stethoscope to pinpoint your car's engine noise.

 

thousand.

eslau, my car is pretty much the same as yours, and with regular maintenance I expect to see 400K+ miles from the engine and body, all from regular maintenance. Keep your oil changes regular with the factory recommended 5W30 or 10W30, the timing chain lubrication and tensioners depend significantly on that.

Like previously suggested check/replace your FPR and also ECT, engine coolant temp sensor, for your cold start troubles. If you have never replaced your FPR before, just replace it. It's 17 years old and done.

Another thing to keep in mind is rust prevention of the body. The most common (or visible) ones are the radiator support and the bubble rust that develops on the wheel wells.

Take a look at this thread about the rad support;

https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ment-pics.html

For the wheel wells just make sure after you wash your car to get a hose on the inside wheel wells. Just rub your fingers along the inside lip of the rear wheel well and you'll find exactly what I'm talking about. You'll find dirt and leaves etc that have gotten stuck in there over a long period of time.