I'm looking for valve cover gaskets, upper intake gasket and spark plug tube seals for my maxima 2.0, but I can only find them for the 3.0 model. Do the 3.0 gaskets fit the 2.0?

 

Only the spark plug tube seals are the same.
Looking up the parts for a 2000 Maxima, I found:

The 2.0 head gasket is part number 11044-2Y000 and cross references only to the 2.0 engine.
The 3.0 head gasket is part number 11044-2Y900 and cross references only to the 3.0 engine.

The 2.0 UIM gasket is part number 16175-2Y000 and cross references only to the 2.0 engine.
The 3.0 UIM gasket is part number 16175-2Y900 and cross references only to the 3.0 engine.

The spark plug tube seals are the same.

Go to http://nissan4u.com/parts and you can get the part numbers for most nissan models.

 

Hello all! Brand new to the forum, and I have an issue that seems to be quite rare. I haven't found any posts on this site (i.e. search bar didn't get me any results) or others with this happening on a 4th gen maxima.

Context: I purchased a manual 4th gen maxima last year, and it was working great! After taking a sharp low speed left turn and immediately having to stop at a set of lights, I couldn't get moving again because the drivers side CV shaft came far enough out of the tranny that the splines were no longer in contact. Ive since had enough time to pull the CV axle out. The c-clip is still present and the splines do not look like they are damaged at all. The boot on the HUB side is completely ripped in two though. Car utilizes a limited slip differential if it matters.

Picture below is proof of non-damaged splines and the present c-clip.

So my question is, has anybody seen this problem before? I can't really figure out how the geometry of the linkage would allow for the CV shaft to drift far enough out for the splines to lose contact. Im assuming the best course of action is installing a new CV shaft and refilling the transmission with oil.

Follow up question. Im newish to the car-parts world. Who is reputable that I can get decent CV shaft from in Canada? This car is a commuter, and Id consider myself a pretty gentle driver if it matters.

Cheers!

 

You definitely have a VLSD with the dual splines.

If the CV axle was properly installed, it is not easy to remove it when changing it. So I wonder if the C clip had been locked in.

Where are you located in CA? We may have a member in your area that can recommend a parts source. Can you order from www.rockauto.com ?

We have a number of members running Surtrack Trackmotive or Cardone Select. Be sure to get a new seal also.

Note to avoid overfilling the transmission lube when reinstalling the axle. If you have the car jacked up in the front when refilling, it is easy to overfill. That turns into seal leaks. So the car should be level.

 

Wow, thanks for the fast response. I updated my profile, but I am located in Calgary, AB. I am wondering if the CV shaft was replaced at some point with one that is too short. I got in touch with the original owner, and he says its possible the CV shafts were replaced at some point, but he isnt sure. I will look into rockauto, their prices seem quite a bit cheaper than parts I can get at a brick and mortar shop nearby ($60 vs $140). I hope that is not indicative of quality, if some other users here are using them without fault.

 

What's the volume between the full and add marks on the dipstick? 1997, 2.0l

 

1st to 2nd gear "kick"---> is it normal?


My maxima with auto transmission "kicks" the 1st to 2nd gear, especially after 5 min driving, when already warmed up. All other gears pass on smoothly.
Considering auto transmissions at the time where in early development phase i cant tell if its supposed to be like that or not. Thats what id like to know from other users. And if not, what part needs replacement?

Thanks in advance, and im glad to have found this forum

 

The transmission should shift smoothly in all gears.

Automatic transmissions are difficult to diagnose over the internet. With the age of these cars and the milage they have accumulated, you may have a transmission that is getting ready to fail. However it may also be something as simple as a solenoid sticking and an oil change could unstick it.

If you change the oil, do not expect the problem to disappear right away. It takes a while to dissolve the varnish.

 

Ok Dennis, thanks for the reply.
I will consider an oil change and filter cleaning, and might take the transmission for a scan, see if any code comes up that could get me a decent diagnose.

 

While looking into why my radiator fans suddenly got so noisy I noticed some signs that a piece of the air intake seems to have disappeared. Part #15 "Connector Pipe" https://www.nissanpartsplus.com/auto...ir-intake-scat

My questions:

1) Is that bad?

2) What does it connect to? It says it connected to a "resonator," I thought that was a muffler...

3) Can I hook up any old piece of tube or do I need to buy the exact $25 part?

In addition to that, I noticed the air filter box isn't attached to the rectangular tube, it can slide and move around a lot.

4) Is is supposed to be that way or am I missing more pieces?

Also I tried following a bunch of FAQ links about air intakes and the links seem to be dead, and I don't know who to PM. Under "Intake" first link dead, second goes to gmail (???), 5th seems unrelated, 6th is dead: https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...gen-how-s.html First link under "Intakes" is unrelated https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...on-maxima.html

 

When you drive in the rain, water is sucked into the air scoop (part # 14) along with the air. The air scoop makes a downward bend and since water is heavier than air, the water keeps going downwards and into your missing tube instead of going into the air filter box.

You can make your own tube if you want, you don't have to use the Nissan part. You could also just block off the opening on the bottom of the air scoop and call it a day.

I'm not 100% clear on the use/purpose of the resonator box. Besides collecting the rain water and letting it drain out, a resonator is used to reduce pulsing noise created by air flowing in a pipe. The air being sucked into the engine is pretty constant, so I don't know about this.

As for the square connection, they are not tight. While it is normally loose, it should not be able to fall off by itself. IIRC, it fits over a foam gasket, part # 6, on the air filter box.

Since you are working on the air filter system, check the rubber tube (part # 10) that it is not cracking in the folds of the bellows.

 

Thank you for all your help! I'm trying to find a new air duct but it's discontinued and will cost $30+ which seems a touch high for a tube.

I'll check on part #10. Is that the one that leads to the throttle body? I need to clean the TB anyway, I read that will help with some of the cold start and idle issues I have.

I replaced my radiator mounts, that got rid of some of the noise but one of the fans rattles a lot when it spins. My manual shows how to replace just the blades, but it's probably the motor that is making the noise, right? While looking for parts I mostly see the entire assembly for sale. Do you know if it's hard to replace the entire fan assembly?

Thanks again!

 

Car manufacturers have always charged high prices. The only things where Nissan is competitive is gaskets. For gaskets, the dealer is usually lower than the local parts store. As for the tube, since it is discontinued, your best bet is the local pic & pull junkyard.

Yes. They start to dry out and crack. You will eventually get O2 sensor check engine lights for lean mixture if this happens.

It is not all that hard. Just mild cuss words needed. I believe in removing the upper radiator hose to make it easier, but others will argue against it. You have to drain the radiator a little bit to empty the top radiator tank which is the main objection.

 

Thanks again! The rubber boot seems fine, though stiff, but I ordered new one anyway as I'd rather not have to disassemble everything again any time soon. I also found a generic air tube for $15 that may work to replace the discontinued 16587-31U00 pipe air duct/connection/assembly/tube thing

 

That rubber TB boot looked fine but when I took off the clamps the rubber under the clamps was crumbling, good call! My car is now purring like a kitten, not more embarrassingly loud fan noises. The TB has a ton of sludge in it and on the butterfly valve. I ended up using spray and some rags to try to wipe it clean. That seems to have eliminated all lurches when idling and starting is effortless. I think it's also idling a lot faster. I also removed and washed out the air filter box and fixed a bolt that was in the wrong place and made the air system not line up properly. Thanks for the help, and this site has been great, it was actually fun to fix all that!

My last question about the air system is what is that little rubber hose to nowhere? It comes from the engine and plugged onto a now-broken-off tab on the air assembly. Not a port, just a solid tab. So I plugged the hose up for now.

My last major problem is Error P1605 "automatic transmission diagnostic communication line." I assume I should check the electrical connections, but I have no idea where to look for them and googling hasn't helped. Do you have any suggestions?

Once that is fixed, I'll look into all the front suspension squeaks I have despite new suspension, and maybe fix the antenna motor. then maybe replace some of that wood trim that peeled off...

 

Noob to the forum. I have a 1997 Maxima with 250k miles. Starts great, runs smooth until you mash on the throttle. I am not sure what to call it but if feels like someone is turning the gas on then off. You will get a brief acceleration then a period when it seems like the fuel has been shut off, then power, then none, again and again until you let off the throttle back down to moderate to low. If you drive with nice slow acceleration, it will get up to 55, 65, 75 with no problem but if you have to pass, problem. I have checked the following with the included results:
Used scanner and checked that the TPS was changing signal. 0% with no throttle and 91% with pedal to the floor. Will check if it goes to 100% tonight by manually working throttle under the hood.
Installed fuel pressure test gauge between filter (new) and fuel rail. Fairly consistent at 38 psig +/- 2 psig when revving the engine. Disconnected the vacuum line from the FPR (regulator) and pressure went to 49-50 psig. Installed a vacuum tester on the FPR and slowly increased vacuum, and pressure slowly reduced with increase of vacuum. Held vacuum with not loss detected over 5 min period so no leaking diaphragm. No fuel in vacuum line.

The other problem I noticed is that once the engine is shut off, pressure rapidly goes to zero but there is no hard starting when the vehicle is warm so I don't think it is and injector.

I was originally thinking the problem was either the fuel pump, fuel regulator, or TPS. Not sure now.

 

Nissan programmed the ECU (computer) with an engine rpm limiter. If you are going *****-out acceleration, the limiter is probably kicking in. The limiter works by cutting off the fuel supply.

Another possibility is bad ignition coils, but you should have a check engine light and codes like P030X or P1320.

 

I am not going ***** out on rpm when I step on it to pass but it is heavy throttle. My RPM is no where near the red line when it starts having problems and will happen in any gear at any speed. I can start out from a dead stop, step on it, and boom, cough, sputter, etc. I did not see those codes but will check again tonight.

 

My girlfriend's 2004 Maxima is throwing code P1574 and when she took it in for an oil change her local mechanic stated she needed to replace the front right speed sensor. I have found a cheaper part online and would like to replace it myself. It seems like a quick and easy fix but everything I am seeing online has the speed sensor on the drivers side which I would call the left side. Does anybody know if there is a speed sensor located right behind the wheel on each side of the front of the vehicle? Thanks for the help!

 

Another possibility is a Mass Airflow Sensor - MAF. They will do various strange things and 90% of the time do not throw a code. Unfortunately there is not any way to diagnose this other than replace the MAF. Since the MAF is expensive (and non-returnable), if you get to this point, go to a junkyard and get one there for maybe $15 as a tester.

 

You have posted in the 4th generation Maxima forum, 1995 to 1999. Your car is a 6th generation.

If it is anything like a 5th gen, it has a sensor on all 4 wheels. They are primarily for the ABS, but also are used for speed sensing. Are you having speedometer or cruise control problems?

And yes, the driver's side is always considered the left side regardless of how a person may be looking at the car.

 

Ok, update on the problem with my son's Maxima. I was able to finally figure it out. Got my code reader back from my friend and checked the codes again. It was giving me the P0100 MAF or VAF codes so I drove it while reading the output signals. MAF was basically reading 0.01. Checked the connection and it started reading but the problem only partially went away. Still did it at higher RPM. Pulled the MAF and used MAF cleaner on it and problem solved. For some reason, there was not a MAF code when I used the code reader on it the first time, only EVAP issue which I have known about for a while.

 

My girlfriend's 99 maxima wouldn't start after we drove it. It was running perfectly fine before. It will crank like normal. I wasn't hearing the fuel pump turn on like usual, so I replaced that. I hear the sound of it turning on now and it still will not start.
Now the strange thing is that if the accelerator is pressed with the key on, engine not running, there is a weird buzzing sound when the accelerator is touched. I'm not sure what to do next. I don't want to spend money that I don't need to. Please help.

 

Is the red security light (dashboard, left of steering column) on while you are trying to start the car? If so, the car is immobilized by the NATS security system. If you spray starting fluid into the throttle valve while cranking, the engine would catch and run until the starting fluid is used up.

 

With no key, the security light is blinking red. Key on Accessory Power, security light is solid red. Cranking, security light is solid red. Is the only way to fix this, towing the car to the dealership to have the codes reprogrammed?

 

No, most private locksmiths can reprogram the NATS. They are less expensive than the dealer and most will come to your car so you don't have to tow it.

Have all the ignition keys when the guy comes. Any key he does not have will not work when he is done. Also, if you need this a spare key for the car, this would be an excellent time to get it.

Call a couple and check their price because they vary in price. Plus, specify that you have a 99 Maxima because they need a different cable to connect to the car. Most cars use the OBD connector, but not the 99 Maxima.

 

You saved me so much money and effort, thank you! I was able to have a locksmith reprogram the NATS and make me a spare for $190 ($125 for NATS + $65 for spare). The dealership wanted $175 for the preliminary diagnosis, even if I told them I just wanted them to reprogram the NATS. I really appreciate all the help!

 

You are welcome. Glad to hear that you have the car up and running.

 

 

My '99 Maxima won't start, won't crank. The lights on the dash are flickering like a short or something. At first, I thought it was the starter so I removed all the connections to the starter and with the key on ACC there's a buzzing still coming from underneath the front of the car. The car has been running great until it just stopped. What should I check for?

Edit: Pulled the fuses, the buzzing stops when IGN SW or the A/T Control fuse is removed.
Edit 2: The buzzing is coming from inside the transmission pan.

 

Just bought a 97 max for $500 to get around, the car seems in good shape except that the break pedal sinks all the way to the floor, the battery and brake light are on, and the oil dip stick has oil all the way up. did i get myself into a mess or are the things i mentioned not serious?

 

something similar happened to my sisters 03 max, it was the fuel pump

 

The brake pedal problem could be several things. The master cylinder could be bad, the power brake unit could be bad are the 2 most likely. Definitely #1 on the get fixed fast list.

The battery & brake light on is the indication of the alternator is not charging. Get a voltmeter and when the engine is running, measure the voltage. It should be 14.2 volts plus or minus .5 volt. You probably need an alternator.

The oil on the dipstick is an erroneous reading due to a dumb design by Nissan. The dipstick is in an oil return gallery so the oil from the cylinder head is draining down over the dipstick. You have to turn off the engine let it sit for at least 30 minutes, maybe longer, before you will get an accurate reading.

 

I'd also Check the fluid level as well, Pedal shouldn't sink to the floor even if there is no vacuum assist available. With the engine off, give the pedal a good 5 pumps, it should go pretty hard and only travel about 1/3 - 1/2 of max pedal travel distance and you should have working brakes, though you may need to use a fair bit of force on the pedal. If your pad's are severely worn out then the initial pump may well goto the floor, but subsequent pumps should firm up. Atleast here in Aus, the ADR's (Aus Design Rules) require brakes to be operable with sufficient stopping power even without any power assist what so ever.

You can test if the power assist works once you have a hard pedal by starting the engine with your foot still firmly on the pedal once pumped hard, when the engine starts, the pedal should sink further by about 1 inch or so (but not to the floor).

Late at night if i need to move my car down the driveway i will pump the pedal hard and "dead roll" the car without the engine running to avoid noise, so i know what the brakes should feel like without power assist. Driveway is pretty steep too, and the brakes work just fine without power assist. (YMMV, and be very careful doing a dead roll, i take no responsibility for you killing yourself trying with defective brakes.)

If the pedal doesn't firm up and continues to sink then either you have low fluid to the point that there is air in the system, and / or the Master cylinder or one or more calipers is bad / leaking.



With the alternator, these cars have temperature compensated alt's so on a cold start on a really cold day expect it to be as high as 14.8v, but once the engine bay warms up, especially on a hot day it will come down, often to around 13.2-13.5v and stablise there, so basically anything 13.0v and above indicates there is some life in the alt, though on a cold start i expect to see no less than 13.8v preferably 14.0 or higher.

If a mod can fix this link and make it an embed that would be good thanks.

-- Alex.

 

We do not have temperature compensation built into the charging system here in the United States, so one should see 14.2 volts plus or minus .5 volt any time, any temperature.

 

TIL, interesting that is, I have to wonder why they made that decision, temp compensated alt's are supposed to give better battery charging based on under hood temp where the battery is, though the brakes should behave pretty much the same I'd imagine.

 

Hello everyone, This is my first cry for help on any forum. I am as noob as they come! I have a 4th gen '95 with a serious engine problem. It all started about a week ago when the temp gauge went up to about 85% of "all the way" it typically stayed at dead center. After a few minutes it would come back down to center, stay for a few seconds and then swing back up. The engine never did actually overheat and the coolant levels were normal. So I thought "thermostat". Change it out and still had the same issue, then I thought temp gauge sensor, or engine temp sensor. Bought the new sensors but before I installed them my son took it out, only ran it for about ten minutes, when it blew up! He said the temp gauge was doing it's routine of up and down when all of a sudden the engine started running a little rough then he heard a POP! and tons of steam came out from under the hood and engine started knocking and chugging and then died, He was on the highway near our house so he shut off the key threw it in neutral and coasted off the highway and into a parking lot.There is coolant in the oil, bubbles and murky brown on the dip stick, under the radiator cap and under the oil cap. There is also coolant pooling in the air breather tube, the large black plastic one that connects the filter box to the intake. He said he did not notice steam coming out of the exhaust, then again he was in panic mode and focusing on getting off the highway. I'm 53 and a shade tree mechanic at best from the 80's and don't normally work on engines but I rebuilt 2 in my teens. Is it possible for the intake manifold gasket to blow? I'm going today to rent a compression tester to hopefully eliminate a blown head gasket or cracked head or block. If I still have compression then maybe it is not a total loss. Any advise ?

 

As you are well aware, you are screwed. Without hands on diagnosing, I think your problems are bigger than the intake manifold gasket. I am pretty sure that coolant does not flow through the intake manifold. That means you at best blew a head gasket. I am more pessimistic. Either the head has cracked or the block has cracked, maybe both. Doing a compression check should identify which bank has the problem, but I think the damage is so serious that you shouldn't bother trying to repair the engine. Shop around for a used engine and put it in.

 

PieceCounter,

Sounds to me like you blew the head gasket allowing Coolant to enter the oil passages, and most likely the cylinders as well which will interfere with combustion and compression. A compression check will likely identify the cylinder(s) where the gasket blew. Up to you to decide if you want to pull the head and investigate further.

A replacement head gasket kit isn't overly expensive at around $90 on amazon ( ), so provided you know how to replace one and have the tools to do so, or have a mate that will do it at mates rates then it could be worth doing.

These engines are pretty well built, so i wouldn't condemn it to the "totalled" pile yet until you actually have a look. If she was shut down quickly after the Pop, then chances are the bearings, rods, and crankshaft will be fine so long as none of the cylinders became hydro locked.

My 1995 Maxi is still going strong, closest i came to catastrophe was blowing the upper hose right at the engine where it lives under the intake scoop coming up a switchback, nice big cloud of steam out the wheel well on the last corner, but i got off the side and shut her down quick smart. New hoses fixed that problem.

 

I had pretty much the entire front suspension replaced this winter, and now it squeaks like CRAZY. I'm talking non-stop squeaksqueaksqueaksqueaksqueak over every crack and pothole, which is pretty much 100% of the pavement around here. Should I crawl under there with WD-40 and spray everything? Go back to the shop? It looks like I have to sell this car for about half what I spend on the suspension so I'd rather not put any more money into it...
Thanks.