NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 42
My 4th gen recently has been having some troubles. In the morning when I start it, cranks up but kinda stutters for the first few minutes. In the afternoons when I'm leaving class itl start but if I'm at a stop sign or stop light etc while in drive with the brake on (like normal stop) for more than some seconds, the rpms will fall to zero and car would cut off and be hard to start back up. Eventually turns back on and when I come to a stop I have to throw it into neutral and either leave it be or if it starts to fall rev up to a constant 1.5k. This is seriously troubling so I went to autozone and had the codes read, pulled up p1335(ref) and p0155. Are these causing the problems I mentioned? Please respnd as soon as you can as I am in urgent need of fixing this, my gas is being swallowed as if I drive a 7.0L.
OF course there is a correlation between the way your car is running and the fact that the check engine light is on with 2 trouble codes.
The P1335 code is for the crankshaft sensor on the front of the engine at the crankshaft pulley. Nissan calls this sensor CKPS(REF). This sensor determines when the engine is at TDC.
The P0155 is an oxygen sensor. It is the bank 2 upstream sensor, also called front sensor or sensor 1. Bank 2 is the left side of the engine, towards the radiator. A bad upstream sensor messes with the fuel consumption and you will get poor gas mileage.
The P1335 code is for the crankshaft sensor on the front of the engine at the crankshaft pulley. Nissan calls this sensor CKPS(REF). This sensor determines when the engine is at TDC.
The P0155 is an oxygen sensor. It is the bank 2 upstream sensor, also called front sensor or sensor 1. Bank 2 is the left side of the engine, towards the radiator. A bad upstream sensor messes with the fuel consumption and you will get poor gas mileage.
Junior Member
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 42
OF course there is a correlation between the way your car is running and the fact that the check engine light is on with 2 trouble codes.
The P1335 code is for the crankshaft sensor on the front of the engine at the crankshaft pulley. Nissan calls this sensor CKPS(REF). This sensor determines when the engine is at TDC.
The P0155 is an oxygen sensor. It is the bank 2 upstream sensor, also called front sensor or sensor 1. Bank 2 is the left side of the engine, towards the radiator. A bad upstream sensor messes with the fuel consumption and you will get poor gas mileage.
The P1335 code is for the crankshaft sensor on the front of the engine at the crankshaft pulley. Nissan calls this sensor CKPS(REF). This sensor determines when the engine is at TDC.
The P0155 is an oxygen sensor. It is the bank 2 upstream sensor, also called front sensor or sensor 1. Bank 2 is the left side of the engine, towards the radiator. A bad upstream sensor messes with the fuel consumption and you will get poor gas mileage.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 4
Infamous EGI wiring harness breakage
OK I'm sure this is all been covered 1000 times but no matter how much I search forums I can never find the info that I want. My biggest question is there are so many things that can cause all these symptoms. Can the wires that run to the knock sensor, the camshaft sensor, the maf sensor, the EGR and all the other things that causes problems in this car , Do they all run through the EGI wiring harness? If the harness is breaking from the bend it could just be breaking a select few wires which could just cause an array of random problems. so that is my question I'm wondering what wires run through that EGI harness. I've done most of the troubleshooting that doesn't cost money so I don't have a whole lot into this maybe hundred dollars or a little bit more and nothing seems to fix my issue (The rare but occasional low rpm's surge while driving, low idle RPMs, week start sometimes extended crank resulting in eventual engine start, emergency brake light and battery light flashing /flicker around 3500 to 4000 RPMs and last but not least stalling out at a stoplight then not starting). (Started after 30 seconds of waiting) I had never had a problem like that until this morning. I had an issue with a long, extended, inconsistent crank/start which I solved by running two large gauge ground wires from the intake manifold to the subframe now I'm dealing with this. Someone please shed some light on this.
And please, only post one problem in one thread, not multiple threads.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 1
No spark from plugs at ignition
Hi y'all,
My buddy's trying to get me to help him out with this '99 Maxima that's been sitting on his property for 2 years (outside) and he just filed abandoned title for. There's no spark coming to the plugs and so it won't start. From what I've read here and elsewhere it seems like for most folks this is a cam/crank sensor problem. I've only worked on diesels so having a spark issue is kind of the worst for my skill set. I just wanted to run this diagnostic list by folks here to see if it made sense:
check resistance at cam sensor (found specs for this),
check resistance at crank sensor,
check resistance at coils (only coils I've ever seen are centralized sending unit to each plug, but it looks like the Maxima has individual coils above each spark?)
If all those are getting power I'm **** out of ideas. Anyone know where to find resistance specs for the crank sensor before I go back out to test this thing?
My buddy's trying to get me to help him out with this '99 Maxima that's been sitting on his property for 2 years (outside) and he just filed abandoned title for. There's no spark coming to the plugs and so it won't start. From what I've read here and elsewhere it seems like for most folks this is a cam/crank sensor problem. I've only worked on diesels so having a spark issue is kind of the worst for my skill set. I just wanted to run this diagnostic list by folks here to see if it made sense:
check resistance at cam sensor (found specs for this),
check resistance at crank sensor,
check resistance at coils (only coils I've ever seen are centralized sending unit to each plug, but it looks like the Maxima has individual coils above each spark?)
If all those are getting power I'm **** out of ideas. Anyone know where to find resistance specs for the crank sensor before I go back out to test this thing?
Hi y'all, My buddy's trying to get me to help him out with this '99 Maxima that's been sitting on his property for 2 years (outside) and he just filed abandoned title for. There's no spark coming to the plugs and so it won't start. From what I've read here and elsewhere it seems like for most folks this is a cam/crank sensor problem. I've only worked on diesels so having a spark issue is kind of the worst for my skill set. I just wanted to run this diagnostic list by folks here to see if it made sense: check resistance at cam sensor (found specs for this), check resistance at crank sensor, check resistance at coils (only coils I've ever seen are centralized sending unit to each plug, but it looks like the Maxima has individual coils above each spark?) If all those are getting power I'm **** out of ideas. Anyone know where to find resistance specs for the crank sensor before I go back out to test this thing?
Hi y'all,
My buddy's trying to get me to help him out with this '99 Maxima that's been sitting on his property for 2 years (outside) and he just filed abandoned title for. There's no spark coming to the plugs and so it won't start. From what I've read here and elsewhere it seems like for most folks this is a cam/crank sensor problem. I've only worked on diesels so having a spark issue is kind of the worst for my skill set. I just wanted to run this diagnostic list by folks here to see if it made sense:
check resistance at cam sensor (found specs for this),
check resistance at crank sensor,
check resistance at coils (only coils I've ever seen are centralized sending unit to each plug, but it looks like the Maxima has individual coils above each spark?)
If all those are getting power I'm **** out of ideas. Anyone know where to find resistance specs for the crank sensor before I go back out to test this thing?
My buddy's trying to get me to help him out with this '99 Maxima that's been sitting on his property for 2 years (outside) and he just filed abandoned title for. There's no spark coming to the plugs and so it won't start. From what I've read here and elsewhere it seems like for most folks this is a cam/crank sensor problem. I've only worked on diesels so having a spark issue is kind of the worst for my skill set. I just wanted to run this diagnostic list by folks here to see if it made sense:
check resistance at cam sensor (found specs for this),
check resistance at crank sensor,
check resistance at coils (only coils I've ever seen are centralized sending unit to each plug, but it looks like the Maxima has individual coils above each spark?)
If all those are getting power I'm **** out of ideas. Anyone know where to find resistance specs for the crank sensor before I go back out to test this thing?
Here is a link to the service manual: http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1999/
There is a file named IDX.pdf and it is the alphabetical index for the manual. If you look up crankshaft sensor, it shows crankshaft position sensor (POS) and (REF). The car has 2 crankshaft sensors. The (REF) sensor stands for reference and indicates cyl 1 TDC. It is located at the crankshaft pulley.
The (POS) sensor is the important one, it is used for generating the spark. It senses the teeth on the flywheel starter ring, of which there are 360 teeth, one for each degree in a circle. The test for this sensor is in section EC, starting page 304. The real test is on page 310.
After page 310 starts the stuff on the camshaft sensor.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2
ECU codes 0510 and 0705 confusion
I have only had my Maxima a few weeks. 140k miles. My engine light came on and I pulled the codes 3 times. (No OBD scanner, used ECU box and counted flashes per instruction on ecu decoder page. After much confusion over the results(obd scanner codes vs ECU codes) and the information on the web, the maxima decoder, posts here, etc, I have a few questions. The decoder listed in the 4th gen forum was found at http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecudecoder.html. it says 0510 is 'undefined' and 0705 is 'EVAP Control System'. Then further down the same thread someone else posted these results aka 'DBM ECU codes':
I have pulled these codes with no OBD scanner. I used the little box by the gas pedal with a screwdriver and counted the long then short flashes per instructions listed on the decoder page. These have been multi verified after a few resets and more driving. I am confused as to which code results are accurate? The decoder page or the ones listed at https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ere-first.html. My most important question would be what to make of these code combinations?
0510
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0510 points to a problem with the Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor. This sensor is mounted in the exhaust stream, just downstream of the Catalytic Converter. When the two Front Heated Oxygen Sensors are operating properly the Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor is not used for engine control operation. It is used to monitor the condition of the Catalytic Converter. If either or both Front Sensors fail the Engine Control Module uses the signal from the Rear Sensor to maintain a correct fuel/air mixture.
DTC 0510 is detected when the signal from the Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor does not reach the expected maximum voltage threshold value. The possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (the sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor
- Fuel pressure
- Fuel injectors
- Intake air leaks
0705
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0705 points to a problem with the Evaporative Emission Control System.
This malfunction is detected when the EVAP control system has a leak or the EVAP control system does not operate properly. (EVAP = EVAPorative emissions.)
Possible causes include...
- incorrect fuel tank vacuum relief valve
- incorrect fuel filler cap
- fuel filler cap vent remains open or fails to close
- foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap
- a leak in the line between the intake manifold and the
EVAP Canister Vacuum Control Valve
- foreign matter caught in the EVAP CVCV
- leaks in the EVAP canister or fuel tank
- leaks in the EVAP purge line (pipe and rubber tube)
- EVAP purge line rubber tube bent
- blocked or bent rubber tube to EVAP control system pressure sensor
- loose or disconnected rubber tube
- EVAP CVCV and circuit
- EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve and circuit
- absolute pressure sensor
- tank fuel temperature sensor
- MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve and circuit
- blocked or bent rubber tube to MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve
- O-ring of EVAP CVCV is missing or damaged
- water separator
- EVAP canister saturated with water
- EVAP control system pressure sensor
- refueling EVAP vapor cut valve
- ORVR system leaks
This is a "jackpot" DTC. It points to so many things you don't know what to check. It is often combined with another DTC which is more specific and therefore more helpful.
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0510 points to a problem with the Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor. This sensor is mounted in the exhaust stream, just downstream of the Catalytic Converter. When the two Front Heated Oxygen Sensors are operating properly the Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor is not used for engine control operation. It is used to monitor the condition of the Catalytic Converter. If either or both Front Sensors fail the Engine Control Module uses the signal from the Rear Sensor to maintain a correct fuel/air mixture.
DTC 0510 is detected when the signal from the Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor does not reach the expected maximum voltage threshold value. The possible causes include ...
- Harness or connectors (the sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
- Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor
- Fuel pressure
- Fuel injectors
- Intake air leaks
0705
Diagnostic Trouble Code 0705 points to a problem with the Evaporative Emission Control System.
This malfunction is detected when the EVAP control system has a leak or the EVAP control system does not operate properly. (EVAP = EVAPorative emissions.)
Possible causes include...
- incorrect fuel tank vacuum relief valve
- incorrect fuel filler cap
- fuel filler cap vent remains open or fails to close
- foreign matter caught in fuel filler cap
- a leak in the line between the intake manifold and the
EVAP Canister Vacuum Control Valve
- foreign matter caught in the EVAP CVCV
- leaks in the EVAP canister or fuel tank
- leaks in the EVAP purge line (pipe and rubber tube)
- EVAP purge line rubber tube bent
- blocked or bent rubber tube to EVAP control system pressure sensor
- loose or disconnected rubber tube
- EVAP CVCV and circuit
- EVAP Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve and circuit
- absolute pressure sensor
- tank fuel temperature sensor
- MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve and circuit
- blocked or bent rubber tube to MAP/BARO switch solenoid valve
- O-ring of EVAP CVCV is missing or damaged
- water separator
- EVAP canister saturated with water
- EVAP control system pressure sensor
- refueling EVAP vapor cut valve
- ORVR system leaks
This is a "jackpot" DTC. It points to so many things you don't know what to check. It is often combined with another DTC which is more specific and therefore more helpful.
I have only had my Maxima a few weeks. 140k miles. My engine light came on and I pulled the codes 3 times. (No OBD scanner, used ECU box and counted flashes per instruction on ecu decoder page. After much confusion over the results(obd scanner codes vs ECU codes) and the information on the web, the maxima decoder, posts here, etc, I have a few questions. The decoder listed in the 4th gen forum was found at http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecudecoder.html. it says 0510 is 'undefined' and 0705 is 'EVAP Control System'. Then further down the same thread someone else posted these results aka 'DBM ECU codes':
I have pulled these codes with no OBD scanner. I used the little box by the gas pedal with a screwdriver and counted the long then short flashes per instructions listed on the decoder page. These have been multi verified after a few resets and more driving. I am confused as to which code results are accurate? The decoder page or the ones listed at https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ere-first.html. My most important question would be what to make of these code combinations?
I have pulled these codes with no OBD scanner. I used the little box by the gas pedal with a screwdriver and counted the long then short flashes per instructions listed on the decoder page. These have been multi verified after a few resets and more driving. I am confused as to which code results are accurate? The decoder page or the ones listed at https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ere-first.html. My most important question would be what to make of these code combinations?
The 0705 code is scary looking with all the possibilities, most of the time it is the EVAP Canister Vacuum Control Valve that is bolted on the charcoal EVAP canister located behind the left rear wheel. It is a solenoid operated valve that corrodes from all the water and stuff that gets sprayed on it from the tire and stops working. Sometimes you can free it up with WD40 (or similar), most times you have to replace it.
The gas cap is another common cause and at the age of these cars, a rusted filler neck is becoming more frequent.
The 0510 code is the oxygen sensor. These things do not last forever. By design they will wear out and have to be replaced.
When you are trying to get the meaning of a code, you would be much better off to use the "pmohr's A32 CEL Decoder" (http://boredmder.com/ecucodes/index.php) instead of the vbmaxima one because it takes the year of the car into consideration. The 0510 code only applies to the 1998 and 1999 models.
And that brings up another point. ALWAYS tell us what year car you have because the different years are not identical to each other, either mechanically or electrically.
If you don't have the FSM, you can download one from here:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2
you only have 2 codes. The fact that they are occurring together means nothing, it is just a chance happening.
The 0705 code is scary looking with all the possibilities, most of the time it is the EVAP Canister Vacuum Control Valve that is bolted on the charcoal EVAP canister located behind the left rear wheel. It is a solenoid operated valve that corrodes from all the water and stuff that gets sprayed on it from the tire and stops working. Sometimes you can free it up with WD40 (or similar), most times you have to replace it.
The gas cap is another common cause and at the age of these cars, a rusted filler neck is becoming more frequent.
The 0510 code is the oxygen sensor. These things do not last forever. By design they will wear out and have to be replaced.
When you are trying to get the meaning of a code, you would be much better off to use the "pmohr's A32 CEL Decoder" (http://boredmder.com/ecucodes/index.php) instead of the vbmaxima one because it takes the year of the car into consideration. The 0510 code only applies to the 1998 and 1999 models.
And that brings up another point. ALWAYS tell us what year car you have because the different years are not identical to each other, either mechanically or electrically.
If you don't have the FSM, you can download one from here:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/
The 0705 code is scary looking with all the possibilities, most of the time it is the EVAP Canister Vacuum Control Valve that is bolted on the charcoal EVAP canister located behind the left rear wheel. It is a solenoid operated valve that corrodes from all the water and stuff that gets sprayed on it from the tire and stops working. Sometimes you can free it up with WD40 (or similar), most times you have to replace it.
The gas cap is another common cause and at the age of these cars, a rusted filler neck is becoming more frequent.
The 0510 code is the oxygen sensor. These things do not last forever. By design they will wear out and have to be replaced.
When you are trying to get the meaning of a code, you would be much better off to use the "pmohr's A32 CEL Decoder" (http://boredmder.com/ecucodes/index.php) instead of the vbmaxima one because it takes the year of the car into consideration. The 0510 code only applies to the 1998 and 1999 models.
And that brings up another point. ALWAYS tell us what year car you have because the different years are not identical to each other, either mechanically or electrically.
If you don't have the FSM, you can download one from here:
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 13
Looking for parts
I'm looking to price out the build with my maxima and can't seem too find many places with aftermarket performance parts. Or if I do find them, I'm finding bare minimal or junk parts. If I could get some help locating parts it would be a great help.
What parts specifically?
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 13
Looking for a starting point. It's bone stock and I'm looking for a good baseline. Parts ranging from exterior swaps to brake upgrades, to suspensions. In the end I would love to throw a supercharger on it like the one from stillen, but unfortunately, as we all know, these were discontinued about a decade ago. I would also like brand names of good quality parts since I really am not trying to get something done to just have to redo it a couple months down the road. My Max is a 97 with 154xxx
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2
From: Washington
Where to find Catback for 4th gen maxima (99 i30)
Hi,
I'm completely new here so please forgive my lack of knowledge. I am looking for a catback for my 4th gen maxima. Megan Racing makes one but they are on backorder and dont have an eta for new stock. From what I have found on the forums, pacesetter is crap. Stillen dropped support for 4th gen maximas apparently. I have limited knowledge on this subject, so please be patient. My budget is up to $500. Any suggestions on where to buy a performance catback?
P.S. Im really sorry for posting a thread before reading this, I was in a rush.
I'm completely new here so please forgive my lack of knowledge. I am looking for a catback for my 4th gen maxima. Megan Racing makes one but they are on backorder and dont have an eta for new stock. From what I have found on the forums, pacesetter is crap. Stillen dropped support for 4th gen maximas apparently. I have limited knowledge on this subject, so please be patient. My budget is up to $500. Any suggestions on where to buy a performance catback?
P.S. Im really sorry for posting a thread before reading this, I was in a rush.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 13
Is it possible to use a performance chip on a 97? When I looked on the Cobb chip site, my model year didn't even show up. Years stopped at 2000. So I figured they just don't go older than that. Can I chip it still? If so, what brand will work and would I have to send in the whole ecu? Or could I just do the install and tuning at home. Thanks for reading, and all help is appreciated.
Is it possible to use a performance chip on a 97? When I looked on the Cobb chip site, my model year didn't even show up. Years stopped at 2000. So I figured they just don't go older than that. Can I chip it still? If so, what brand will work and would I have to send in the whole ecu? Or could I just do the install and tuning at home. Thanks for reading, and all help is appreciated.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 13
I know I been posting a lot recently. But what's a good brand for a sway bar kit? I have only found 2 brands. Progressive. And aamco I think is how it's spelled. Are either good? Or should I look more into it and find another brand?
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Oct 2015
Posts: 2
(Already posted this question here: https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ml#post9074525)
Could someone please explain the steps of setting valve timing?
I started with a water pump replacement, ended up on a fishing expedition for the tensioner spring and plunger, and didn't have confidence that timing hadn't jumped once I had the timing case off and the new pump in. I removed the main chain completely, which released some tension on both camshafts (assuming valve spring pressure?) and they each turned about 1/4 turn.
I am at TDC per the FSM method, valve covers are not off. Did not take any sprockets or secondary chains off. I understand that the correct position is with the special links on the secondary chains lined up, with the arrow on the main camshaft sprocket at a 90 degree angle to a line between them.
Do you just turn each main camshaft sprocket bolt to move them back into position, and put the main chain back on? I'm encountering a lot of resistance, and worry about bending valves.
Could someone please explain the steps of setting valve timing?
I started with a water pump replacement, ended up on a fishing expedition for the tensioner spring and plunger, and didn't have confidence that timing hadn't jumped once I had the timing case off and the new pump in. I removed the main chain completely, which released some tension on both camshafts (assuming valve spring pressure?) and they each turned about 1/4 turn.
I am at TDC per the FSM method, valve covers are not off. Did not take any sprockets or secondary chains off. I understand that the correct position is with the special links on the secondary chains lined up, with the arrow on the main camshaft sprocket at a 90 degree angle to a line between them.
Do you just turn each main camshaft sprocket bolt to move them back into position, and put the main chain back on? I'm encountering a lot of resistance, and worry about bending valves.
(Already posted this question here: https://maxima.org/forums/4th-genera...ml#post9074525)
Could someone please explain the steps of setting valve timing?
I started with a water pump replacement, ended up on a fishing expedition for the tensioner spring and plunger, and didn't have confidence that timing hadn't jumped once I had the timing case off and the new pump in. I removed the main chain completely, which released some tension on both camshafts (assuming valve spring pressure?) and they each turned about 1/4 turn.
I am at TDC per the FSM method, valve covers are not off. Did not take any sprockets or secondary chains off. I understand that the correct position is with the special links on the secondary chains lined up, with the arrow on the main camshaft sprocket at a 90 degree angle to a line between them.
Do you just turn each main camshaft sprocket bolt to move them back into position, and put the main chain back on? I'm encountering a lot of resistance, and worry about bending valves.
Could someone please explain the steps of setting valve timing?
I started with a water pump replacement, ended up on a fishing expedition for the tensioner spring and plunger, and didn't have confidence that timing hadn't jumped once I had the timing case off and the new pump in. I removed the main chain completely, which released some tension on both camshafts (assuming valve spring pressure?) and they each turned about 1/4 turn.
I am at TDC per the FSM method, valve covers are not off. Did not take any sprockets or secondary chains off. I understand that the correct position is with the special links on the secondary chains lined up, with the arrow on the main camshaft sprocket at a 90 degree angle to a line between them.
Do you just turn each main camshaft sprocket bolt to move them back into position, and put the main chain back on? I'm encountering a lot of resistance, and worry about bending valves.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 21
1996 Maxima: Shimmy When Accelerating or Turning Left.
Had this problem a year ago. Changed out the following.
Driver CV Axle replaced March 2014
Rack and Pinion replaced January 2015
Passenger CV Axle replaced January 2015
The shimmy subsided somewhat after the passenger CV axle was replaced.
But seems to have returned. It is gradually getting worse.
Yesterday jacked up front end so both front wheels were 2 inches off the ground.
Rotated passenger front tire back and forth. Heard rattle in passenger CV Axle inner joint.Rotated driver front tire back and forth . Heard rattle in the driver CV Axle inner joint.
1- Is the “rattle” in the CV Axle Inner Joint normal?
I was told a year ago that I should change out the passenger lower control arm.
The power steering pump was dripping fluid onto it and the rubber was disintegrating.
2- Could the shimmy be from the passenger lower control arm?
3- What else should I check?
Many Thanks
Had this problem a year ago. Changed out the following.
Driver CV Axle replaced March 2014
Rack and Pinion replaced January 2015
Passenger CV Axle replaced January 2015
The shimmy subsided somewhat after the passenger CV axle was replaced.
But seems to have returned. It is gradually getting worse.
Yesterday jacked up front end so both front wheels were 2 inches off the ground.
Rotated passenger front tire back and forth. Heard rattle in passenger CV Axle inner joint.Rotated driver front tire back and forth . Heard rattle in the driver CV Axle inner joint.
1- Is the “rattle” in the CV Axle Inner Joint normal?
I was told a year ago that I should change out the passenger lower control arm.
The power steering pump was dripping fluid onto it and the rubber was disintegrating.
2- Could the shimmy be from the passenger lower control arm?
3- What else should I check?
Many Thanks
1996 Maxima: Shimmy When Accelerating or Turning Left.
Had this problem a year ago. Changed out the following.
Driver CV Axle replaced March 2014
Rack and Pinion replaced January 2015
Passenger CV Axle replaced January 2015
The shimmy subsided somewhat after the passenger CV axle was replaced.
But seems to have returned. It is gradually getting worse.
Yesterday jacked up front end so both front wheels were 2 inches off the ground.
Rotated passenger front tire back and forth. Heard rattle in passenger CV Axle inner joint.Rotated driver front tire back and forth . Heard rattle in the driver CV Axle inner joint.
1- Is the “rattle” in the CV Axle Inner Joint normal?
I was told a year ago that I should change out the passenger lower control arm.
The power steering pump was dripping fluid onto it and the rubber was disintegrating.
2- Could the shimmy be from the passenger lower control arm?
3- What else should I check?
Many Thanks
Had this problem a year ago. Changed out the following.
Driver CV Axle replaced March 2014
Rack and Pinion replaced January 2015
Passenger CV Axle replaced January 2015
The shimmy subsided somewhat after the passenger CV axle was replaced.
But seems to have returned. It is gradually getting worse.
Yesterday jacked up front end so both front wheels were 2 inches off the ground.
Rotated passenger front tire back and forth. Heard rattle in passenger CV Axle inner joint.Rotated driver front tire back and forth . Heard rattle in the driver CV Axle inner joint.
1- Is the “rattle” in the CV Axle Inner Joint normal?
I was told a year ago that I should change out the passenger lower control arm.
The power steering pump was dripping fluid onto it and the rubber was disintegrating.
2- Could the shimmy be from the passenger lower control arm?
3- What else should I check?
Many Thanks
When you jack up a wheel, grab it at 9 & 3 o'clock and try to shake it. Maybe the tie rod ends are bad.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 12
From: Ohio
1996 Maxima: Shimmy When Accelerating or Turning Left.
Had this problem a year ago. Changed out the following.
Driver CV Axle replaced March 2014
Rack and Pinion replaced January 2015
Passenger CV Axle replaced January 2015
The shimmy subsided somewhat after the passenger CV axle was replaced.
But seems to have returned. It is gradually getting worse.
Yesterday jacked up front end so both front wheels were 2 inches off the ground.
Rotated passenger front tire back and forth. Heard rattle in passenger CV Axle inner joint.Rotated driver front tire back and forth . Heard rattle in the driver CV Axle inner joint.
1- Is the “rattle” in the CV Axle Inner Joint normal?
I was told a year ago that I should change out the passenger lower control arm.
The power steering pump was dripping fluid onto it and the rubber was disintegrating.
2- Could the shimmy be from the passenger lower control arm?
3- What else should I check?
Many Thanks
Had this problem a year ago. Changed out the following.
Driver CV Axle replaced March 2014
Rack and Pinion replaced January 2015
Passenger CV Axle replaced January 2015
The shimmy subsided somewhat after the passenger CV axle was replaced.
But seems to have returned. It is gradually getting worse.
Yesterday jacked up front end so both front wheels were 2 inches off the ground.
Rotated passenger front tire back and forth. Heard rattle in passenger CV Axle inner joint.Rotated driver front tire back and forth . Heard rattle in the driver CV Axle inner joint.
1- Is the “rattle” in the CV Axle Inner Joint normal?
I was told a year ago that I should change out the passenger lower control arm.
The power steering pump was dripping fluid onto it and the rubber was disintegrating.
2- Could the shimmy be from the passenger lower control arm?
3- What else should I check?
Many Thanks
http://boredmder.com/ecucodes/index.php
If the airbag light is blinking, you will have to look it up in the service manual.
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1999/RS.pdf
Read pages 35 & 36 to understand how it works, then go to page 40 to find the code's translation.
Last edited by DennisMik; Oct 19, 2015 at 08:59 AM. Reason: add 2nd link
Would you care to clarify?
Also, tell us the year of your car whenever you ask a question. Nissan made changes almost every year.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 2
From: Washington
Hi, I just did a new brake job on my rear brakes (calipers, rotors, pads) and Im not getting any pressure from my parking brake. I took it to the mechanic and he said all I have to do to tighten it is pull the ebrake handle about 60 times. I did that and it didnt work. Why am I not getting any pressure from my parking brake? I have a 1999 maxima.
Last edited by alecmcggg; Dec 1, 2015 at 03:13 PM. Reason: 1999 maxima
Hi, I just did a new brake job on my rear brakes (calipers, rotors, pads) and Im not getting any pressure from my parking brake. I took it to the mechanic and he said all I have to do to tighten it is pull the ebrake handle about 60 times. I did that and it didnt work. Why am I not getting any pressure from my parking brake? I have a 1999 maxima.
See page 27 in the service manual, link below.
http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/1999/BR.pdf
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Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 4
From: San Jose, CA
Ignition lock and switch
Someone broke into my '97 maxima as messed up my ignition cylinder. I replaced the cylinder and the switch, but now the car isn't giving any response when I turn the key. I don't even see the lights on the dash, clock, or stereo turn on. I know my battery isn't dead because I can turn my headlights on and when I open the door the lights go on. Any idea what it could be?
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 71
Someone broke into my '97 maxima as messed up my ignition cylinder. I replaced the cylinder and the switch, but now the car isn't giving any response when I turn the key. I don't even see the lights on the dash, clock, or stereo turn on. I know my battery isn't dead because I can turn my headlights on and when I open the door the lights go on. Any idea what it could be?
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Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 4
From: San Jose, CA
I bought the cylinder and the switch brand new. The car turned on before I bought the switch and cylinder. I drove it home and tried to turn the car on 20 minutes later and didn't get any power to the dash or power locks and Windows. I checked the voltage on my battery and it's good. I replaced the cylinder and lock and still nothing.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 71
I bought the cylinder and the switch brand new. The car turned on before I bought the switch and cylinder. I drove it home and tried to turn the car on 20 minutes later and didn't get any power to the dash or power locks and Windows. I checked the voltage on my battery and it's good. I replaced the cylinder and lock and still nothing.
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Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 4
From: San Jose, CA
Yea, this happened before I even bought the new switch. I drove the car home after it was broken into, I tried to turn it back on before I bought the new switch and that is when I noticed it wasn't getting any power. I thought changing the switch would work but no luck.
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 71
Well, in that case I would look for a blown fuse.
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Joined: Sep 2015
Posts: 4
From: San Jose, CA