The clock and the radio both have two 12 volt wires going to them. One of the wires is to power the device when you turn it on. The other wire is to keep the time/radio station presets when the key is removed. The memory wire does not go through the ignition, it is live all the time. The main power wire does go through the ignition switch, so it is only live when the ignition key is in the ON or ACC positions.

Fuse # 21 is used for the main power and fuse # 40 is used for memory for both the radio and the clock.

Those 2 fuses are also used by the power antenna. Since your power antenna is bad, it is possibly blowing the memory fuse, # 40. Go in the trunk, unplug the antenna wire harness, REPLACE fuse # 40 and see what happens.

Fuse # 40 is the one in the very top right corner of the fuse panel.

You can post in the main section right now. That 15 post thing was removed.

 

awesome thanx for the info i really appreciate it

 

Hello there good people!


I own a '98 model, A32 i believe, equipped with the VQ20DE and a manual gearbox.
The other day my engine sorta seized up (@ just under 240 000kms) and my options are either to replace the internals of my current engine, or buy a new engine for it.


I was interested in buying a VQ30DE and transplanting it onto my car.
My question is, would it be possible?


In one of the threads that i've read on this site, one gentleman indicates that all '95 to '99 engines are interchangeable, but a local mechanic told me there might be an issue with the gearbox mounts.


I would just like some clarity please, can i transplant a VQ30DE on my VQ20DE standard set-up, all without changing my standard manual gearbox?


I'd really appreciate some insight, many thanks in advance!


P.S.
(Before i post my question i would like to mention that i'm a total n00b and and i'd like to apologise in advance if my question has been posted before - i used the Search function and could not find similar questions though)

 

Hi All:
As soon as you fix one thing, another pops up... Grrrr!!!
CHECK ENGINE Light came on. It spits out 3 codes:
0705 - EVAP Small Leak
0903 - EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve Circuit
0304 - Knock Sensor

I played with the gas cap and reset the codes. CHECK ENGINE LIGHT stayed OFF for about a week then came back ON with same 3 codes.

1- Is this really 3 separate issues or are they tied together somehow?
2- Which should I tackle first?
3- How difficult are they to deal with?
4- Is replacing the gas cap the first and easiest thing to try.

Thanks in advance. You guys are always amazing.

 

The 0903 code (P0446) is most likely the cause of your problem. This is bolted on the EVAP charcoal canister that is behind the left rear wheel. This valve is a solenoid that moves a plunger to open and close and air vent. The plunger gets stuck from corrosion and you get a code. You can take it off and try freeing the plunger, using WD40 (or similar) and moving it with a screwdriver or something. 50/50 chance you can free the plunger, you might have to buy a new one.

Take care of the solenoid and reset the codes. Hopefully this is all you need to do.

The 0304 code (P0325) knock sensor is a code that always seems to tag along with any other code. We call it a ghost code because it usually isn't real. So again, fix the other problem(s) and reset the codes and see if this code comes back.

 

Hello, i am new to this site and am slowly working on my car. 96 Maxima GLE. I have noticed they are super bright which is good but I feel like they will blind oncoming traffic. Any tips on how to fix this? I have been reading on projectors. Any suggestions on buying/making these and putting them into my headlight enclosure?

If so would these work??
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005R4LCX8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1425626665&sr=8-3&keywords=projector+headlight&dpPl=1&dpID=51DD0 ek-zlL&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

 

Kudos on trying to fix the issue and not simply letting it be and blinding everyone. You def want projecters but i dont think the headlights you linked can fit on our cars. Look up r34 retrofit headlights, probably the most popular version used on our 4th gens. Also look up the forum member Chrisman287, hes the go to guy for all things projecter - he refurbished a set for me and they came out beautiful (still havnt installed - will be once my new max is on the road!)

Basically you can put projectors in any headlight that fits on our cars. The question is generally what projectors you want to use. But as far as using HIDs you 100% want to go this route.
---

I have a few questions of my own while im in this thread, not sure if this is the best subforum but its technically 4th gen related soo..

I picked up a 96' DEK swapped max recently. I was wondering if id have any issues if i picked up a 96' JWT ecu for it. I did some searching and found only one post buried in an ancient thread suggesting id be ok but i wanted to double check first. The car already has an AFC installed which leads the my next Q:

Currently the 96' has an apexi neo as the AFC/VI activation. I dont know anything about neos. I have a VAFC2 sitting that i intended for my 99' before it got totaled. Is one afc superior to the other? From what i read they are the same except the neo has a color screen - are there any other differences? Does the neo have as many tuning points as the vafc2?

Thanks in advance for the assistance guys.

 

Car was running ok. Then Check Engine Light Came ON. I used the great instructions in the following link to extract the codes.
http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html

Code 0903 EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve Circuit
Code 0705 EVAP (Small Leak)
Code 0304 Knock Sensor

DennisMik made great suggestion but I didn’t have time to deal with it so I just reset the light. A few days later it came back with the same codes.

I did not have the instructions handy and must have made a mistake with the reset procedure. I think I did not take the screw all the way to the counterclockwise STOP. Or maybe I took it there and brought it back to the right a ½ turn.

Anyway the strange this is that the car started fine.
But the IDLE WAS VERY LOW AND ENGINE DIED AFTER A FEW SECONDS.
Tried it again and again, same result.

Then I saw this on youtube and tried turning the ECU screw all the way to the counterclockwise STOP.

To my amazement, the IDLE problem VANISHED! Car running OK again.

Why would turning the ECU Screw affect the IDLE?

Fully expecting Engine Light to come back on with same codes but can’t understand IDLE issue.

I see a lot of IDLE problems on the forum and wonder if those people simply didn't reset the engine light properly.

 

The 2 clips snapped off on the Driver Side Rear Wheel House Protector (the plastic cover that goes over the EVAP Vent Control Valve). They are inexpensive dealer items but I am wondering if there is a homemade kludge that can work just as well.
Thanks!

 

If you don't have the screw on the ECU in the correct position, the ECU could think it is in test mode. And the ECU doesn't do things correctly then.

 

Car has been parked about two days now. I was driving and noticed that i was smoking under the hood so pulled over and noticed when i shifted into park, the engine revved up to about 3k rpm and was just loud. Lifted the hood and smoke was coming from around the throttle body like behind it. Tried to go to auto store and noticed the oil light on and i knew i was low on coolant so i went to buy both. Got to driving some more then car just started to cut off when i came to a complete stop. Long story short i need to know the name of a certain part so i can replace it and hopefully get back on the road. I have a 95 GLE N/A with CAI. The broken piece i need to know is like a plastic connector located right under the VIN/chassis number thats stamped on the firewall. It 2 hoses running into it, from left and right, and is screwed into the firewall. One of the hoses is running into the passenger side firewall. From what i could see, it looked to have been something that sent coolant through it.

 

That is a connector for the coolant return hose from the heater core. All it does is connect 2 pieces of hose together.

Nissan calls it "****-WATER CONTROL" which is a strange name for a piece of pipe. It has 2 part numbers, based on when your car was built.

# 92401-40U00 Production Date: 02/1994-11/1994
# 92230-40U02 Production Date: 11/1994-12/1995

It is crazy expensive at the Nissan dealer. The only thing special about it is that it screws onto a bracket, otherwise you could use any pipe connector. You just have to figure out how to support it.

 

^^ I think the last two replacement heater hoses that I've purchased are now one long stretch of hose that bypass it altogether. I think I use a couple of zip ties and some hose cover to secure the hose on the old bracket.

 

Hey!

I have a 99 Maxima SE that doesn't have any heat at the moment... Searched through about 6 other threads here at Maxima.org and none of them address my specific symptoms. About 2 months ago the heat kicked on all the time no matter what. Even with the climate control "off" the heat would seep through the vents. About 2 weeks ago the heat died. Gone.

Relevant information about the car / symptoms:

• I have an automatic climate control system in the car.
• I pulled the FSM from Nissan and ran the car through the climate control diagnotics. No errors returned.
• Internal/external temperature sensors looked correct during the diagnostic.
• Radiator coolant is full / overflow reservoir is at the "max fill" line
• Replaced radiator last fall, coolant is still clean and clear to a visual inspection.
• Heat ran solidly (almost ALL THE TIME) until the end of February and then just stopped.
• I never had the cooling system open to introduce air into it between the time it was working and when it stopped working.

Thoughts:

• If the system is clogged (which is a distinctive possibility) then why did it blow hot air non-stop for almost 2 months?
• If the blend door is messed up then why didn't the diagnostics indicate that?
• If the system *is* clogged then which hose is the input and which is the output? (top vs. bottom) A flush seems like a reasonable step to take no matter what.

Any help would be much appreciated! And thanks to all for running these forums, I've lurked here for some time now.

 

Every problem has to start sometime, whether you anticipate it or not.

The diagnostic is checking the electrical signal to the various parts. It sends a signal to the air mix door motor and looks for a change in the returned signal from the PBR that is inside the motor. What the diagnostic does not check is the mechanical movement of the air mix door. I think this may be your problem - the link between the air mix door and the motor may have come off.

Without going outside and looking at my car, I don't know. What you can do is follow the hoses. The hose for the water coming out of the heater core goes to the thermostat. It's probably like the radiator - the lower hose goes to the thermostat.

The first thing to do is verify that the coolant level is not low by Nissan standards. The heater stops producing heat when the level is just the slightest bit low. With the engine cold (and not running), remove the radiator cap. The radiator should be filled all the way to the cap, no air space whatsoever.

To verify the operation of the air mix door, get down in the passenger side footwell. It will help if you remove the trim plate that covers the end of the ECU. Then put the key in the ignition switch and turn the key to ON. You don't have to start the car if you don't want to. Change the temperature setting on the heater control panel and watch for air mix door operating arm movement.

 

Ain't that the truth!

Thanks for the suggestion! This problem would certainly fit my symptoms very closely. And you're absolutely right; the motor could be working but be physically disconnected from the mix door. That would also explain my 2 months of hot air.

Thanks for the tip - I did check this and it is filled to the cap, with the reservoir filled to "max".

Will do this as soon as I get a chance! Thanks again. Will report back with findings

 

I enjoy working on my own car, solving each mystery, addressing each issue & have accumulated a good deal of knowledge, so I am hooked but am interested to hear some opinions on how much more I should do considering the age of the car. Only paid $1K, 215K ... just seems to be having a midlife crisis, suffering from weather & oil abuse, hoping to get another 5-10 years.

Also curious as to an estimate of pure labor costs I have saved doing the work myself ... here's what I've done so far (and I have alot of pics but not sure where/how to post them, in my Garage Album?) ...

Replaced Battery & Starter (due to no start)
Replaced End Muffler (due to rust)
Replaced O-Ring on Camshaft Position Sensor (due to oil leak)
All new Spark Plugs (due to age)

Top-End Cleaning & New Gaskets (due to carbon/varnish buildup & oil seepage): UIM (EGR & TB Ports), IACV (re-used old gasket), Throttle Body (re-used old gasket, EGR Tube (re-used old gaskets), Valve Covers, Tube Seals, Grommets, MAF, New Air Filter
Oil & Filter Change #1

Homemade fix for rusted out Radiator Core Support (due to age/weather) ... thanks to the boyfriend

New Alternator (due to oil damage)
New PS Belt (due to original belt worn)
Removed, Cleaned, Restored all Original Tensioners: PS Pulley, Idler Pulley & Timing Chain
Removed, Cleaned & Re-sealed Outer Timing Chain Cover (due to oil leak, chain/guide inspection + education): New RTV, Crankshaft Seal & Front Upper Oil Pan Seal, TC & Water Pump Access Covers Cleaned & Re-Sealed
New Water Pump
New Thermostat

Also enjoyed my 1st Junkyard venture:
Driver's Door Switch (in attempt to rid the common blinking airbag light - still on my to-do list)
Camshaft Position Sensor (noticed a few hairline cracks developing when I cleaned the original)
Much-Less-Rusty-Than Mine Horn & Bracket

Oil & Filter Change #2 (#1 was already mud after only 2 weeks + we whacked the filter with the breaker bar getting the crankshaft bolt loose)

Cleaned Oil Strainer & Lower Oil Pan & Re-sealed
Cleaned the **** out of the Crankshaft Position Sensor & Oil Pressure Switch Inlet (covered in sludge, used MAF cleaner)
Replaced Oil Pressure Switch

Replaced Bank 1 Front O2 Sensor - more help here from my favorite "nut buster" - a rough one (due to CEL Codes I had pulled back when I purchased the car in 2014 ... P1148, P0300 & P0130 all pointed to it)

Pulled out ECU to check for obvious damage before suspecting IACV for rough, erratic idle under load, looked good. Tried to pull codes from ECU with screw, but nothing at all ... that's when I realized the CEL bulb was burned out, so replaced it, works fine now.

I've researched the idle problem ALOT ... just got the CEL for 1st time since all this work (otherwise, everything started right up, completely better after the chain tensioner re-pressurized lol & runs great btw) ... got a beautiful P0305 (sent by the un-gunked CKPS I assume), replaced the Coil Pack #5 & the idle problem was gone!

I took care of alot of good things but now realize I was so close anyway, I probably should have tackled the RMS & those two pesky O-Rings behind the Inner TC Cover, as I am 90% sure that is where my tiny oil leak (about a poker chip size spot overnight) is still coming from (even though I eliminated several others) - I get the gravel space in the driveway for now lol.

My To-Do's:
Guessing new Catalyst - hearing a putt-putt and assume the coil pack issue has probably worn on it & it's surely the original - hoping rest of exhaust & Y-pipe aren't too rusty... waiting for more codes/clues (checking tomorrow: CEL is on after replacing the #5 Coil Pack & I expect more)
Replace Tranny Pan Seal & Coolant Hoses (seeping, not dripping)
New Shocks/Struts
New Windshield (will prob pay to have that done)
Probably PS Pump & Hoses (still original, some seepage)
Tires, maybe Rims, within next couple of years
MAYBE RMS & Rear TC Cover O-Rings

So ... I'm still under $600 for what I've spent on parts ... I love the engine & feel, so is there anything else I should check or stop at that is a popular deal-breaker for this car? I don't think I'd get into wiring or the trans, but is this all worth it? These cars seem to be able to run very high mileage lifetimes, but wondering if I caught this one too late...

Thanks in advance for any advice or input ... I will post the pics tomorrow & update on any new codes/progress!

 

Great progress and congratulations Jen!

The next time you're at a salvage yard, try to pick up a MAF from a wrecked 4th gen to keep in the garage as a spare. You can usually get a used MAF from a yard in the $25 to $25 range. When you get it home, install it to test it. Most yards will let you return defective components if you run into a bad one. I try to keep a spare in my workshop. Unfortunately, I used my spare last winter.

 

Thanks! I was really suspecting the IACV when I went to the yard, so I did grab one of those - swapped it in with no affect, but at least I have a spare IACV now that I know works (my original did not have the little brass (?) sensor cover inside so now it does). I really wanted to grab a TB with the MAF but I was on a limited budget, so I will def grab one next time, as well as some coil packs since mine seem to be on their way out (the idle problem was obviously due to the misfire that has been slowly getting worse since I got the car). Unfortunately, the yard I went to will only exchange defective parts for another of the same part - mite find a diff place to go next time.

Also, is the "newbies must post on this thread first" rule old? Can I move this out to the regular 4th Gen forum as it's own thread? Getting ready to post pics to my Garage Album...

 

I think the new member post limitation has been lifted. Though it takes a moderator to move anything as far as I know.

One yard in my area returns cash, the other gives a store credit for future use.

 

Dennis - I finally got a chance to get back to the car last night. Replaced my harmonic balancer :P

I got into the footwell on the passenger side and saw this:



When running the diagnostic routine there is no movement in the arm whatsoever. It doesn't appear to be detached, but I'm not sure how to tell. The diagnostic checks out and does not throw an error.

• If the motor has failed what is involved in replacing it?
• If the motor has failed why doesn't the diagnostic report this?

 

Deleted due to no answer and figured it out myself. Thxs. Would delete but don't see a delete button.

 

Hello smart fellow Nissan friends,
The cover that is attached to the underside of my hood is attached with several round clips. These clips are not threaded, they spin freely in each direction. Do I need a special tool to remove those round clips? Ultimately I am trying to access the windshield sprayer hose that is behind this cover.

 

They just push into a hole. You pry/pop them out. If you can pry from 2 sides, you have a much less chance of breaking them.

 

Your photo doesn't work, so I don't know what you are trying to show me.

When running the diagnostic, I have never watched the motor. So maybe it doesn't move during the diagnostic. That seems strange, though. Like I said, I watch it while changing the temperature setting on the control panel.

I think you could tell if the arm had become disconnected. There would be something hanging. My photo is of a 97 Max but I would think the linkage should look pretty much like my photo.

I don't know exactly how/what the diagnostic does things. There is no "behind the scenes" description that I can find. If you had a bad motor, I would hope the diagnostic would report it, but I can't guarantee that.

As far as replacing the motor goes, you have to remove the ECU so that you can remove 3 phillips head screws that hold the motor on. Removing the ECU is kind of difficult, the wire harness is in the way of the ECU screws.

It sounds like you want to go ahead and replace the motor and see if that fixes your problem. I discourage that for two reasons. The motor might not be bad, it could be the control panel. If you read the service manual, it should tell you to measure voltages at various spots to verify if it is the motor of the control panel.

And the other reason (that you are just going to love), is that the motor is no longer available new. It is a junk yard part.

So do the voltage checking and see whether the motor or the control panel is the problem.

 

Sorry about that! I'm still trying to figure out the board's attachment process. I've switched the photo to my trusty photobucket account for the time being. I believe that I have found the same linkage, though it does look somewhat different.



Did this as well! My buddy was helping me and he saw nothing happen. Perhaps I can just take it in for a diagnosis...

Nothing hanging so far as I can see!

Good to know that it can be done without removing the entire dash!

Bummer that I can't get a new copy of the part. I may have to junkyard hop for it. My friend also tried plugging / unplugging the motor and it didn't seem to have an effect. Perhaps I can find a better youtube video for diagnosing this door!

Thanks so much for your advice. I appreciate that you take the time to trawl this old thread and care for us noobies

 

Your photo is the air mix door that we have been discussing. The difference in the arm position is probably that yours is in the full heat position and mine is full cool position.

If you decided you had nothing better to do and you would remove the dash to change that motor, you would be very disappointed to discover that removing the dash is absolutely no help. I found that out the hard way. Learn from my mistake and DON'T DO IT!

 

I have pretty much the same problem. I need the air mix actuator for a 99 Maxima (part #27732-40U01) and can't find it - even on ebay. Do any of you know any sources for this discontinued part that I might have missed with my standard Google search? Also, since the heat is bad enough in Georgia without having the car pushing out heat through the vents, can I ask the repair shop to manually move the door over to the cool position or will that not work? I'm thinking that might help while I wait to find the part somewhere.

Thanks!

 

The motor is a discontinued part (Thanks for nothing, Nissan) and no one has found an alternative supplier that I know of. So the junk yard looks like the only hope. There are different part numbers for the different years of the cars and no one knows what the differences are. Unless you want to take a chance and experiment, only get the motor for your year car.

As far as manually moving the air mix door, it might be possible to disconnect the arm from the door and move it. Never tried it my self.

 

Hi, I have a 97 SE 3.0L automatic with 194K miles on it. I have been searching the interwebs for months trying to fix her, and I am desperate.


Started about 5 months ago, my "Check Engine" light came on. Code was a P1447 (EVAP). My boyfriend said that could be difficult to find, and the only symptoms were maybe slightly decreased fuel efficiency and slightly hard idle, so I decided not to chase it.


About 1 month ago, she started idling super rough at stops, sputtering, then stalling. I can keep her going by constant throttle, though. If I let her stall, she starts right back up, but sometimes dies immediately. After no more than 3 tries, I can get her to stay on. When this episode occurs, I can smell the gas being burned rich. Then, when I give some throttle to actually move forward, sometimes there is almost no acceleration. After continuing the throttle push, within about 2 seconds, the rpms will shoot up to where they SHOULD be occurring to the current throttle position. Fuel efficiency really went bad at this point.


Took her to a shop and found the EVAP leak, sealed that, but the O2 sensor code was being thrown on OBD II (I did not catch the number). Replaced both upstream O2 sensors, unhooked the battery, the MIL light was still on, but the car was running great.


After about 1 week, the car started with the same symptoms again, but were not as frequent. Fuel efficiency is still bad, but the rich burning gas smell is not noticeable anymore. The MIL never went off, so we ran OBD II again. The EVAP code went away, but O2 sensors were received (P0150 and P0155) My boyfriend said that an old fuel filter could do this, so we replaced that.


Car had been running great...until today. Today, when I stopped at a red light, she did not idle rough before she just died. Delayed throttle still happening. This may happen more so when it's warmer outside? (80+ degrees) Overall the car is better with these recent replacements, but still stalling.


The car mostly runs beautifully, but every few days she'll die at a stoplight, and I know then that the rest of the drive is going to be a battle. Then the next day she'll be fine.


My next step was leaning towards catalytic converter (I've known several Nissan newer than mine to have theirs' clogged), but I really don't want replace that if it is not the problem. My boyfriend thinks spark plugs, but I replaced those with NGKs about 20,000 miles ago, so I don't think that is going to be the answer to all my problems. Please help us!! I love this car. Thank you for all your helpful comments! Xoxo

 

You may be dealing with a bad MAF sensor. Those things don't always throw a code and cause all kinds of different problems.

MAFs are kind of expensive, so maybe you want to gamble $10 and try cleaning it first. Buy a spray can of CRC brand MAF cleaner. But unfortunately cleaning doesn't always work.



Auto parts stores will hook up an OBD code reader at no charge (not allowed in California).

 

Thanks DennisMik! We actually did use that cleaner early on when the stalling first started. It seemed to help for a few days. The OBD codes are o2 sensor related. Also I might add, one of the mechanics I brought it to told me when he would force more air into the engine, it would die, and samsies when he withheld air. Should my next step be replacing the MAF?

 

O2 sensors rarely cause driveability issues, just a check engine light. Bad upstream sensors can cause poor gas mileage but you have replaced those.

If the catalytic converter were plugged, that would cause it to get VERY hot and you would be smelling something like carbon disulfide (rotten eggs). So I don't think the catalytic converter is the problem.

I still suspect the MAF, but I have no way to tell you what to do to prove it or disprove it. Before you replace it, check the flexible rubber tubes that connect the MAF between the air filter and the throttle body. Thes tubes are getting old and cracking. The tube between the MAF and the throttle body is the critical one.

If these tubes are good, then replace the MAF. If you can get one from a junk yard car, that would be a cheap test. One thing about the MAF, the ones from local auto parts stores are hit or miss, only the Nissan one works. But it is also the most expensive, which is why I say visit a junk yard.

 

I'm very much a newbie with a question. I've got a '95 that's sort of juddering when it idles, and is having problems accelerating. I'm not really a car guy, but I've got enough of a clue to change the oil, and not a lot more without instructions.

 

What mileage are you at?

Have you ever replaced the plugs, or know when they have been?

A lot of poor idle/misfire issues are ignition related, can be resolved by simply swapping out old, worn plugs, or defective coil packs.

 

No idea what coil packs are, the mileage is around 190k.

 

And...spark plugs?

 

Working on that. She's new to us, and we got her from a friend, I'm seeing if he'd ever changed the spark plugs.

Incidentally, he thinks it may be the air intake. The problems do seem less pronounced with the air off, but I also don't know how to find the intake.

 

By 'with the air off' I can only assume you mean the AC. That has nothing to do with the intake.

The intake is everything from the filter up to the throttle body.

If the plugs haven't been changed within their allotted maintenance period, that's the first thing you should do. A 15 minute job with hand tools.

 

Ok, plugs changed less than a year ago.