Noticed the starter smoking while messing with it yesterday. Replaced that, changed out batteries now crank is fairly normal I'd say. I got a backfire trying to crank it once. Still no start. Checked all positive connections to the terminal, all seem to be in fair shape. Lights on dash do dim down when trying to crank, just a thought. Don't know what to turn too next

I guess all the cranking was too much for the old starter! But dash lights dimming while cranking is normal because the starter uses so much power that it drains the battery temporarily while cranking.

I'm still thinking that there is a fuse blown. Does the horn honk? There is a 120 (or 140) amp fuse that usually blows when cross jumped, but there are things that will still have power.

It didn't honk when I got it but I could check the fuses again. I'll go through all them again mabye I missed one. There is only three fuse boxes correct? By the battery, by the P/S pump reservoir and the leg area under the steering wheel?

The car has 2 fuse boxes and 2 relay boxes.

The fuses are in the dash and under the hood between the battery and the fender. The fuse for the horn is in the dash.

The 2 relay boxes are both under the hood, one in front of the battery and the other is by the power steering oil reservoir.

The reason I asked about the horn is that it is one of many things that won't work if the 120 or 140 amp fuse blows. Some other things are the power windows & seats, the fan for the heater & a/c.

This 140 (or whatever) amp fuse I refer to is in the center of the fuse box that is under the hood. The cover calls it BATTERY. Also check the big square 75 amp one that is in the top corner. The cover calls it BATTERY IGN.

Yeah that's right I forgot that was the relay box. Hahahahahahaha. But nonetheless I rechecked to find all still good in their proper spots. I did however purchase a obd2 scanner for 23 bucks (better than the autozone loaner&#128521 to scan her with and did get the following codes:
P0340, Camshaft sensor circuit bank 1
P0340, Idle Air Control System
P0325, Knock Sensor
P0110, Air Intake Temperature Sensor circuit malfunction
I have replaced the camshaft position sensor as mentioned in my original post and tonight I checked the wires for the sensor and it was .008 ohms. If that helps any.

Not sure if I am interpreting "checked the wires" right. .008 ohm is essentially a short circuit. If you are measuring wire continuity, that's good. But if you are measuring the sensor, this is bad as in NFG.

The sensor made by Hitachi should be 1,440 to 1,760 ohms. The one made by Mitsubishi should be 2,090 to 2,550.

Yes that was measuring wire continuity of the wiring to the Cam Sensor. Not sure what to do next.

I went back and re-read your original post. It turns out I didn't read it correctly the first time. One, maybe two, things I got wrong. You are not getting a spark. The other thing is the crankshaft sensor. You said the front sensor, which I take as being the one on the crankshaft pulley by the oil filter.

The crankshaft pulley is called CKPS[REF] by Nissan. It's primary purpose is to determine TDC of the engine. If it is bad, it might cause a P1335 code, but not always. Even if it is bad, the ecu is supposed to be able to figure out TDC and still allow the engine to start.

Now the other crankshaft sensor, CKPS[POS] is absolutely critical to the engine starting. It senses the teeth on the flywheel for the spark timing. No pulses from the sensor = no start. This sensor should theoretically cause either a P0335 or a P1336 code.

First try checking for 12 volts on an ignition coil. This is a red wire on each coil, so it doesn't matter which coil you check. You will have to have the ignition key in the ON position. If it is not there, we have something to chase.

If you are ambitious, remove the lower dash cover below the steering wheel. This will reveal 3 relays on the left side of the fuses. The one in the center is the Ignition Relay, which provides power to a bunch of electrical circuits. Swap it with either of the other 2 and see if the car will start. BTW, if you don't have 12 volts in the above paragraph, this will not fix that.

I hate to do this but I need to..


We have a 1996 Maxima that we chumpcar race, I am trying to figure what Transmissions I can run. I don't care of need electronics to work. Looking for bolt in options and prefer Limited slip if I can find them.


Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Joe

Hey! So this isn't a direct answer to your question, but if you want to see what kind of transmission / transaxle is currently in the car check the placard on your firewall. It has the VIN and also the transaxle model code on it. I've attached a picture of my placard to this post. I believe that you can find the placard in front of the passenger side... The transaxle model is listed on the very bottom - mine is RS5F50A. In the very least that will give you a place to start searching for replacements I'm sure a more knowledgeable member will come along behind me and provide a more thorough answer.

Is what its possible to put intake manifold and vq30de-k injector on the vq30de motor to increase performance.

I can attest to this fact, just went through it with my Kia, Key made using the vin didn't work and Kia would not make another one or refund me, lesson learned. I took out the lock from the trunk (one bolt) and took it to a local lock smith,he called me back in an hour, charged $30.00 and took it home and it worked, so anyone else in this situation should do as Dennis says. Drilling out the ignition is a last,last,last solution to this situation.

So I'm a Noobie to posting on forums, although I've read countless ones doing research on my Max's. I haven't been able to find anything about my question and hope someone out there can help please.

A little background:
I have a 96 Maxima with a A/T that I've had since 1998 and I've done everything to it since I've had it. I recently purchased another 96 Max, but it has a M/T. I bought it from a mechanic that had it sitting on their yard for 3 years... I was told by the mechanic (which I've known for years) that the car was attempted to crank less than a year earlier, it turned over but no start. The mechanic had installed a new starter and after the previous owner got it back they still complained of intermittent starting and brought it back to him but he couldn't get it to replicate the problem...the previous owners decided to let it sit and later sold it to me.
Soooo......
I purchased a battery and starter and installed....no crank, no turning over of the crankshaft at all...it won't budge even with a socket and breaker bar tried in both directions. I have pushed the car back and tried popping the clutch as it rolled forward to make sure that it wasn't sticking and not letting the crank turn. I have removed the plugs thinking it might be hydro-locked and poured Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder to see if it would free up the cylinders...no luck. Is it possible something is going on with the M/T since it sat up that is preventing it from turning?

Any other ideas before I just go get another motor and drop it in?

Thanks,

MThunder

The first thing you have to do is forget whatever you were told about that car and deal with it as if you know nothing about the history of the car.

Could the transmission be locked up? It could. Have someone hold down the clutch pedal while you try to turn the crankshaft with a socket. Holding down the clutch pedal disconnects the transmission from the engine and would allow the engine to turn over if the transmission were the problem.

BTW, if you use a socket on the crankshaft pulley end, turn the crankshaft clockwise.

I tried having someone hold in the clutch while trying to hand turn the crank, unfortunately no luck. .. have heard that pouring in some Type F Tranny fluid in the cylinders and letting it sit a few days usually frees up cylinders that are stuck? Anyone heard of this before?

Sorry to hear the about the trouble. If faced with that situation, Marvel Mystery oil would be my first choice. Marvel has a cleaning agent that should penetrate better than ATF. I managed to free up some stuck rings a few years ago using a Marvel cylinder soak technique that I learned about from Saturn owners.

Does it matter how much Marvel is put in each cylinder? Also, how long should it soak before trying to move the crank?

I would use enough to soak each piston. That will depend on the piston's position in the cylinder as the the amount that can be held. I would evenly distribute a quart across all cylinders and leave it overnight. It will run down the cylinder and into the oil pan. If you get the engine to turn over, you will have the spark plugs out and not risk any type of hydro-lock from the oil until you get past this issue.

Hi guys,
I've been having a problem with my 95 Maxima getting not even to normal operating temperature (maybe 1/3 of the way up the gauge or less) and then suddenly the engine dies. The car will usually not start for at least an hour or so after this happens until it has sat and cooled down. I have tried reading the engine codes with an OBD2 reader but the reader is finding none (the engine light is on though). Nothing is getting even too hot to the touch under the hood as far as I can tell but I feel it must be related to heat because of the symptoms. An old friend of mine that has been a mechanic for many years has been looking at it and so far hasn't been able to find anything. Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

In regards to not being able to read your OBDII codes, have you checked for a blown fuse for it? I believe it has one in the panel under the driver's side dash. I can't remember if its labeled OBDII or cig/aux. If that fuse is blown it won't let your scanner read the codes. Please let us know if you can get the codes, I'm wondering if your showing a coolant temp code. The coolant temp sensor talks the computer and can greatly affect is idle and even make it cut off. How was it running before it shut down?

Hey, im new here, ive been having serious problems, misfires after a spark plug change, coils replaced, all vacuum lines for intake replaced. I recently cleaned the idle air control valve, and now the car has trouble at low Rpm >2500, and wont stay on, coming to a stop you feel the brake pedal get stiff and you'll stall out its a 5 spd manual, i have no idea what my problem is

The brake pedal getting stiff means that there is not enough engine vacuum for the brake booster. A vacuum leak would also create a cannot idle condition. I would carefully inspect all vacuum lines that they are attached and not broken.

Get a spray can of starting fluid and with the engine running at idle or as slow as it can, spray the starting fluid at every hose you can see. If there is a vacuum leak, the engine will pick up rpms from the starting spray. There are a lot of vacuum hoses that are hard to see on the drivers side of the engine, so check that area really good.

Hi mates,
I have a question about a digital clusters. I have a Maxima 1997 where is analog cluster and Maxima 1999 with fully digital cluster (odomoter A/B on one display and Consumption meter(Board Computer), hours, outside temp at second display with control button at steering wheel. I didnt find which version is that from 99 Maxima. And i am interested in swap that to my Maxima. I did read everything about analog to digital cluster, but i didnt find any info about that Board Computer (second display). Is possible to wire that BC in my Maxima ? These infos are not in FSM. Im experienced electrician so if it is possible i want to know it. I will post photo of that cluster tomorrow. Thanks for now and sorry for my bad english.

PS: It is definitely not cluster from 5th gen Maxima, behind the cluster are stock connectors.

This is that computer in my spare maxima :

The Bose HU on my '98 Maxima (SE? has spoiler but with lots of luxury options so possibly GLE) is starting to fall apart and I was planning on getting an aftermarket unit.
If my research is correct these are all the parts that I will need.
What I am having trouble wrapping my head around is how the HU is going to connect to the adapter. Can anyone explain that to me?
Model seems to be 7018B if that helps.

I am assuming that you mean connect to the wire harness adapter in the 3rd link. If this is true, you plug the RCA plugs onto the back if the head unit and plug the other end of the adapters into the car's wire harness.

If the car is a SE model, the faces on the speedo, tach, etc will be white. Otherwise they are black for the GLE and GXE models.

That makes sense except for the part where there are 2 audio output RCA jacks and 4 inputs for the harness. Would I need female adapters for the wires coming out?

I don't understand your line of thinking. I am guessing that you are overthinking this. Anyway...

In the photo of the Metra wire adapter, there are 4 RCA plugs. Each plug represents one speaker.
white = left front
gray = right front
green = left rear
violet = right rear

What you will need to do besides plugging the RCA jacks into the appropriate spot on the back of the radio is to connect wires from the harness that comes with the radio to the loose wires on the Metra adapter. Because you are going to be using the RCA jacks, you will not use all the wires in the radio harness.

The headunit only has left and right RCA (white red) jacks for input

What are you not telling me? You are thinking about something and keeping it to yourself.

Inputs are used when you want to connect something to the head unit, such as maybe a Sirius radio adapter, an external DVD player or whatever.

For installing it into the car and using only the features built inside of the head unit will not use any input connections.

RCA jacks A B E & F are the 4 speaker output lines. RCA jacks C & G are inputs for any kind of device. Similarly RCA jacks D & H are inputs for a CCD camera, probably a backup camera. Using these connections are not mandatory.

[QUOTE=phenryiv1;4711300]Since people with less than 15 posts cannot start their own thread, but MIGHT have a legitimate question, I am opening another thread for noobie questions.

so this is how i post?

stuck in fail-safe operation how to reset?

1. turn the ignition key OFF and wait for 3 seconds. Then turn the key back to the ON position.......................................... ... (did not work)
2.Apply the parking brake and turn the ignition key to ON without starting the engine. The following lights will come on..... (no Malfunction indicator light (MIL)) or (Overdrive off indicator light) bulb is good
3.got codes at aotozone
p0110
p0325
p0600
p1605
p0138
p0600
p1605

[QUOTE=Tiki Oz;9164073]That 15 post thing is no longer valid. The powers that be just don't seem inclined to erase it.

There are multiple things that will put the engine into fail safe mode. This happens because something is (as we generically say) broken. Until the defective part is replaced/repaired, there is no voodoo process that will get you out of it. When you are reading things on maxima.org, you will see the term "limp mode". This means the same thing as fail safe mode.

What ever you were trying to say, you did not accomplish it. Try again.


p0110 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor. This is located on the air filter housing between the filter and the MAF. This sensor sometimes gets knocked out of its mounting when the air filter is replaced.

p0138 - Rear Heated Oxygen Sensor (Rear HO2S). Located on the outlet of the main catalytic converter.

p0325 - Knock Sensor. The knock sensor code appears pretty much every time you have a problem. When the engine isn't running correctly, it knocks and the knock sensor detects it just like it should. Fix the other problems and 999 times out of 1000 the knock sensor code goes away.

p0600 - A/T Control - ECM receives incorrect voltage from TCM (Transmission
Control Module) continuously.This is one of the things that will put the engine in fail safe mode. Could be the transmission, could be the TCM.

p1605 - A/T Diagnosis Communication Line. This code goes hand in hand with the P0600 code and is probably the true cause of the fail safe mode. This could be wire harness damage between the transmission and the TCM or the TCM itself.

One thing you need to do for yourself and us is tell us what year your car is, along with other things that seem to be the problem (transmission, radio type, etc). While they look alike on the outside, they are different under the sheet metal. 95 & 96 are fairly similar, 97 & 98 are fairly similar and the 99 is in a class by itself. It has more in common with the 5th gen than it does with the 4th gen.

You can go here and download the FSM (Factory Service Manual):

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/

[QUOTE=DennisMik;9164128]Are you saying I should start new thread?
I was trying to say that the O/D light and check engine light are not working at all. but the bulbs are good.
It is 1998 Maxima automatic transmission radio has been replaced .
I just got the car so i have little or no history
as you can see any help on using this quote button would help.

All I was trying to say is that you could have started a new thread in the main section without having reached 15 posts. The info when you first sign up is not up to date.

That is going to take a little bit of electrical troubleshooting. Do you own a volt-ohmmeter? You may need to solder broken traces on the instrument cluster printed circuit board. You could try swapping the instrument cluster with one from a 1998 or 1999 Maxima or you will have to use a voltmeter to check the wires for those lights.

History isn't all you might think it is. Usually you just diagnose a problem without caring what the history is. Having access to the history is more important when you are buying the car as it may give you an idea of what you might be getting yourself into.

The explanation for this is a rather long subject that I am going to pass on. What I will say is that there are a bunch of commands for causing things such as the quote process. To let the forum software know that you are specifying a command, you start by typing the left square bracket, then the command word and then the right square bracket to end the command word(s). Then you type the info for that command and tell the forum software that you are done by typing the terminate command. The terminate command starts with the left square bracket, the forward slash symbol /, the command word(s) then the right square bracket.

I don't know of any tutorial on this, I learned what I know by reading a post and seeing something that made me say "I wonder how they did that." I would than click on the reply button to see the square bracket commands. I wouldn't necessarily want to post a reply, just see the commands. I would use the back function of my browser to get out of the quoting process.

There is an area for doing test posts. Immediately after you logt in to Maxima.org, scroll all the way down and the very last thing is test posts. If you ask a legitimate question there, it is highly unlikely that you will get an answer.

I need advice. I very recently got my 96 Maxima 3.0 and am in the planning stages and getting some basic things taken care of. I have a question that I hope will generate some responses. My car is the basic model with stock 15 inch wheels. As far as my goals I'm going for moderate upgrades, all new parts and pieces will be moderate upgrades from OE in performance, but not full race. I've selected Eibach lowering springs. Struts are KYB rears and Koni's for the front, all nonadjustable. Ordering upgraded brakes etc. (all picked, none ordered) and I'm looking at some Enkei wheels.

I'm conflicted between the 17 inch and 18 inch wheels. I do prefer to have some sidewall. I've never used the low profile tires so I don't know what to anticipate as far as ride, and I really can't visualize how much difference there will be between the two sizes and how the ride and looks will be affected. I do want some rubber, not extreme low profile. I'd appreciate any advice on 17 vs 18, looks and how the ride and looks will be affected. Thanks for your reply
Nlgntr

Something similar, I have two 4th gens (a 98 and 99) that are running H & R lowering springs. Both with Koni STR.T struts. I had KYB AGX on the 99 model until recently. I could see running Koni STR.T on the front with KYB AGX adjustable on the rear if you really want to firm up the backside. But I thought the Koni has responsive handling character all the way around. Personal preference, I like Koni orange struts.

The 99 has 18" rims. The 98 has 17". Here are some pictures below. I try to keep the tire radius as close as possible to original spec to avoid rubbing and speedo error.

18" Maxima Wheels with Duplicolor Gunmetal Wheel Paint



17" Juke Wheels

I have a headunit without preamp outputs I want to install and the 7551 harness.
Can I make this work?

Probably. Your post is not very clear, though. All you have to do is give us some information as to what makes and models of all the pieces you are working with.

98 SE with Bose system
Metra 7751 harness
7701cm HU