I failed my safety inspection the other day because they said my check engine light does not even turn on at all.

Does anyone know of a way to change the bulb or has had a similar problem where the light would not turned on?

Can anyone direct me to a site that has a how to on taking out the dash where the speedometer and the other lights are so I can change the bulb?

Thank you guys so much!

 

Stickies on top of 4th gen forum....

Or searching using

THE AVY!!!!!!111one

Edit...im in a good mood
http://www.geocities.com/amixam69/nissan/dash/

 

You are a life saver! Thank you!

 

Your welcome...

 

Do the 99 ecu's give different codes then other years? I hooked up my obd-ll scanner to my dad's max and his knock sensor code was P0305, but when I looked here all I see is P0304 for the KS code.

Also what does pending mean on the scanner? He threw two codes for the KS one was there and the other said pending.

 

The coding is different PO is an OBDII standard, the 0304 is counting how many blinks, and doesn't relate to the PO code.

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...67&postcount=7

 

Hi I joined because I have problems with my maxima and because Nissan, a host of mechanics and auto electricians have so far only cost me huge $ without fixing anything.

So... because I have to post the ridiculous 15 replies before I obtain ANY useful information by asking the question I need to I have to bore others with useless chatter. Enjoy.

 

or you could ask the question here in the form of a reply.

 

Ummmm. It's not rediculous. The 15 posts rule keeps spammers away.

So, this thread is for newbs just like you that can't start there own thread just yet. What's your question?? Maybe we can help.

 

True, but the original post said not to do that so being the good girl I am I was trying to be nice! But.. seeing as you asked! 95 Nissan Maxima A32 (I am hoping the model sold in Australia is the same as the A32 in US?). Problem now for 8 months with stalling at traffic lights or while braking to eg. go over a speed hump, round a round-a-bout etc, strange idle going up and down on without acceleration. Very random, can not play up for 2 weeks and then (as it is this week) is really bad. Have had it to Nissan and a host of mechanics, no codes thrown, they replaced knock sensor, throttle body sensor, even the whole throttle body and the obvious things like fuel and air filters but so far the only thing it has done is send me broke ($2500 so far). Now think it is the Idle Control Valve which is a $700 part here in Oz + labour and second hand Maxima parts are a rarity here and no aftermarkets sold here. Any suggestions? Being a girl, anything mechanical has to be done by someone else who I have to pay!

 

For starters, have a mechanic clean the IACV for sure. A clogged IACV would definitely cause the symptoms you describe. No need to replace it, it's not a part that typically wears out. Nissan shouldn't charge you more than 1 hours rate to do the job (although it can be done in 30 minutes...)

Also have a mechanic/Nissan check for a vacuum leak. Fairly simple.

Possibly your MAF is dying too, but I'm not sure about that one so don't go buy a new MAF, as they are expensive! If it turns out to be the MAF.......used Maf's here on the org are typically around $40. Changing it is a 10 minute job with simple tools.

Also, if Nissan worked on your car, take it back!! Why pay for parts/labor that didn't solve your problem? It's there job to figure it out, period. Raise some hell! Hope you paid with a credit card, that way you can dispute it. (provided not too much time has gone by)


Hopefully others will chime in with other possible causes of your stalling issue.

 

Sorry, as I said I am a girl and have no idea what a MAF is?

 

MAF=M*** Air Flow Sensor.

 

Would that not throw a code and what other symptoms would that show? Is that the same as an Oxygen Sensor? i think they replaced that as well already?

And yes you are right I have been ripped off completely especially as the Dealer I went to (more than an hours drive away) is associated with my company and were supposed to look after me. I complained but they refused to do anything further. Won't be going back there - found a great Racing Engine Performance specialist just down the road who is very helpful and won't charge until he knows for sure what the problem is but as it has been so random it is very difficult to diagnose. He even drove the car around for 2 weeks himself but it must have been 2 weeks it was behaving.

 

A bad MAF usually throws a code, but not always. A MAF and an oxygen sensor are two very very different things. Your problem is related to air in my opinion, hence my suggestions for the MAF, vacuum leak, and IACV.

Have your mechanic check the resistance on the MAF, the specs are listed in the Factory Service Manual for your car.

You can also try cleaning the MAF with a spray cleaner specifically made for MAF's. Some have reported good luck and there stalling issues went away, others had no luck and had to replace the MAF.

 

Hi again, took car to mechanic yesterday arvo and it is finally throwing a code that says it is a Water Temperature Sensor??? not sure of exact code number but could this have been causing the problems all along and why has the code not come up in the 8 months the problem has been present?

 

Ok, quick question:

If I take the amber lens out of my taillight, will it pass inspection?

 

Depends on the state, but if you replace the clear bulb with an amber bulb, it should.

 

Yes, most definitely. I forgot about this one. You may have a bad Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor (ECTS) or a problem with the ECTS harness/connector.

Try wiggling the ECTS wire and harness while the engine is idling. If this prevents the car from stalling, then you may have found the source of the problem. Then, have the mechanic test your ECTS with an ohmmeter.

The ECTS is located in the water outlet tube close to the engine end of the upper radiator hose. There are two sensors in that area. The one nearest the hose is for the dashboard temperature gauge. The ECTS is right next to the the gauge sending unit. Check out the Haynes repair manual for a picture of these sensors.

With the engine cold, disconnect the ECTS and measure its resistance. Reconnect the ECTS, start the engine, run it until fully warmed up. Stop the engine, and repeat the resistance measurement. The "warm" reading should be a much lower value than the "cold" reading.

The manual gives these specs:
Engine coolant temperature 68F, ECTS resistance 2.1 - 2.9 Kohms
Engine coolant temperature 194F, ECTS resistance 0.24 - 0.26 Kohms

I think you're finally getting somewhere and getting closer to figuring out your problem.

 

some states you need an orange reflector in front. Check your laws. We can't tell you your own laws.

 

Eh..what I meant was that even if state law say that it does, is this something that is normally a cause for failure?

I mean are they sticklers for it? Can anyone who has done this within a state that says you have to have amber turn signals say whether or not they passed inspection?

 

The day before inspection put the stockers back on...it takes a whole 5 mins.

 

Is there a difference between a SS y-pipe and aluminum besides being rust resistent?
I live in california, but might move to the beach sometime next year and want to know if i should drop the extra 40 or so dollars for SS? Does it reduce the noise?

Thankkee

 

Good call, although that means getting an extra pair...

Cars cost way too much money, why is it so addicting to have them!!

Another question:

My exhaust looks rusty and I may have to replace it in the next year. I don't want a ricer exhaust, is it difficult to replace the stock exhaust with another stock?

Thanks!

 

Yes, with basic tools (wrenches, ratchets, sockets) you should be able to do it yourself assuming it's not all rusted together.

 

Is the heat shield for the cat converter necessary on a 4th gen? (some bushes got mine)

 

Also does anyone have a favorite place to (cheaply but not cheap parts) get body panels/drivers side mirror in CT or online? (can't even find a junk yard with what I need).

 

I guess necessary depends on what comes into contact with it.

You might get even with the bushes by parking on top of them while it warms up from a cold start but you might also lose the car.

Many junk yards will use a clearing house type of network to get you the part you need. Unless the owner is still in the dark ages that is... You might also try the f/s sections here.

 

IMO, no. I wouldn't worry about it.

The for sale section here on the org!

 

Does anyone know if the VQ30DE engine uses torque to yield (TTY) head bolts?

 

{img}http://www.flickr.com/photos/20138835@N07/1970478350/{/img}

 

 

 

Andrew, there is test post forum for stuff like this........

 

Thanks!

But I thought that you needed a blowtorch type thing in the process? (I could be completely wrong, it's just something I was told some time ago)

Are there any good guides for this?

Thanks!

 

if its really rusted you can use a torch to heat up the bolts to get them to break loose, sometimes it'll work.

if you just go at it with some pb breaker and a breaker bar you'll probably do just fine.

you don't really need a guide, just take stuff out and put corresponding new piece back in.

 

i would like to know what K&N part number for a cone filter should i use, this is for a popcharger
ive been searching for a while on the forum before i post and those are the one saw most of the time, they are all 3 inch i think

RU-2820
RU-3580
RU-3570
RC-3870
RR-3002
RR-3003

 

well measure the pipe dia. that your going to be using ( or the adapter dia.) and how much room you have to work with, then go here: http://www.knfilters.com/search/univcone.aspx and figure out which one you'll need, not everyone has the exact same setup.

hopefully someone can chime in with common dimensions of popcharger filters

 

i have a 96 max n it needs an o2 sensore , bank 1 sensor 2 , i jus wanna make sure where that sensor is .

 

Can anybody tell me the part number for the gear select sensor out of the 4th gen manual transmission?

Thanks!