Can anyone direct me to a how to on replacing your motor mounts and what ones to get?

thnx

 

You can buy a new knock sensor online for ~$60 and with an extension and U-joint replace it pretty easily by following instructions on this forum. The knock sensor indicating that knocking is occurring will not set of your CEL but in my case the knock sensor had gone bad and did set the CEL off. If you reset it and it comes on again then I would just replace it.

 

How difficult would it be to take off the door panels and dashboard to paint them?

I read the stickies and have all the instructions, but what would be the likelyhood of me not being able to put it back together?

 

bump my questions:

Also, does anyone have a scan or a picture of the fuse diagram under the steering wheel? I unfortunately don't have the little cover that normally has the decal on it. There are some lights on the inside of the car that are out and I think it's a fuse problem. (My Haynes manual is on the way, but I don't want to wait that long, as it's bothering me)

Regarding keyless entry:

I'm not sure it's called a fuse box, because they didn't look like fuses (Big noob here), but there is black box on the left-hand side of the car under the hood. On that was a decal explaining what was in the box, and one said "Keyless 2." So i checked that one, only to find that nothing occupied that spot. I'm guessing that means my car isn't prewired for keyless entry? Would that be difficult to install? Should I go aftermarket in this instance?

 

thank you

 

you can get oem ones, poly energy suspension ones (usually from cattman), or you can take off the ones you have and fill them with polyurethane (there is a write up around here on how to do that)

 

you should be able to do it, just go slow, label everything and sort out the pieces into groups of where they go back in.

 

Why am i a noob that cant start threads but yet I joined in 2002?

 

I've got a 96 SE maxima and i'm having troubles with the starting. Now the problem is kind of weird theres 3 problems i need to address. First problem is the longest. A long time ago, the engine started making this weird whining noise almost like a supercharger whine sound. It does when the AC is off. Somebody said it was my AC clutch going?? if I turn the AC off it makes the noise, If it's on then it goes away. It is rev dependent as well because if i drive it makes noise depending on the rev your in i have a few videos i pulled from my camera phone where you can hear the sound. The second problem is awhile back my car started having trouble starting..i figured it was just bad fuel injectors and i put in LUCAS fuel injector cleaner and it got great mileage worked fine. Eventually it started getting worse. Now when i start my car i have to pump the gas alil and everytime i start it a cloud of grey smoke puffs out *i do have an exhaust leak as well* when it cranks over and starts it runs fine but i have to fight it all the time to start it. the third problem is my fuel mileage has been cut in half as well idk if ties in to my motor problem, but i'm getting 250 or less to every tank i've put in the past 6 months if need be i can post videos of the Whining sound anybody know anything thats goin on? i'm not real smart with troubleshooting yet..i've not had much hands on experience. it's my only car ha i gotta get to work so i never diagnose or take time to look

 

the black boxes under the hood, the one next to the battery has fuseable links in it (ie, big fuses) the one opposite by the overflow has relays in it.

you can look behind the wall carpet in the trunk on the pass side there will be a box that isn't the antenna, that is the keyless module.

you could add the factory wireless. you would need the module, remotes and thats if the wiring is there. but price it out i don't know how it would compare to an aftermarket unit

 

you have to have 15 posts, you have 4 at the moment

 

since you new, start off by reading the stickies they will answer a lot of questions you may have.

in the stickies there is one about checking what codes you car is throwing, start there and report back with what codes if any show up.

here is a good thread to start reading through about starting problems
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=338918
in the end he mainly needed to add some extra grounding

 

Yes but i joined in 2002 and have had many post in the past and then i dissapeared.... and now im back

 

Door panels are simple. Anyone with a slight mechanical inclination should be able to do it. Just go slowly because theres a chance you can snap the plastic pieces.

Dash i havent taken apart.. I took apart the odometer face, and it is somewhat of a tight squeeze, but i didnt even take off the steering wheel. Just work slowly and try to remember what goes where, label screws etc.. But i really cant help you there.

 

I'm currently struggling with the issue of taking off the dashboard, I need a diagram or some instructions with pictures or something. Is there any out there?

 

if i knew man id be there this afternoon to help.

im actually trying to work out how to remove the airbag cover, because mine is fading.

once you get that dash off let me come by and take a look. i want to see what the passenger airbag and airbag cover look like from the back.

immona PM you my cell #

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....t=FSM+download

 

Hi, i've been having some trouble with my airbag light recently. I've checked the related forums and have reset the light several times. At first it went off for a while but now its becoming more troublesome and i think i may have to replace the SRS airbag module. One other odd thing, it sometimes gets "stuck" in diag mode and won't come out. This makes me think it is probably the airbag module as opposed to other causes of error codes. What do you all think?

 

UPDATE: I'm just going to do a wrap of my whole dashboard and door panels in black.

Now I need to find a place to buy vinyl wrap for cheap and not online.

 

Alright well I am having some issues with my transmission in my 97 se max. This morning I got up to leave and put it in to reverse (i have an automatic) and i could hear it go into gear and everything but it wouldnt move. It goes into drive and everything just not reverse and no codes are showing. Any ideas?

 

was your parking brake on??

hahaha

my first suggestion would be transmission, but you said you can "hear" it go into gear.

do you "feel" it engaging?

 

lol no parking brake wasnt on haha but yea i feel it engage

 

i am getting a 1997 maxima and need to know if 2500 is a good price... The odometer is broken

 

In case anyone cares, here's the next part of the story. Removed the relay cover (rt side front, facing the car) and let the car idle to get warm. Both fans worked for the first 4 relay cycles (the active relay is easy to find because it makes an audible click when powered), but then either one or the other (or both!) fans refused to start when the relay cycled on. After some head-scratching, I decided to pull the fan units out and look 'em over. Turns out it's not hard to do, the shroud can be wiggled out w/o disconnecting any hoses (but the CAI must be loosened first). There's a lower hose that is just supported by the fan shroud - unless it's detached, the shroud won't come out.

The shroud disassembles easily, and you can completely remove the fan blades from the motors and the motors from the shroud with a single socket wrench. First thought was to tear into one of the motors and poke around, but the case halves appear to be sealed together pretty tightly with adhesive. There are two holes in the motor case (towards the bottom when the motor is installed), and one on the front of the case is just the right size to accept the spray straw on a can of WD40, SOOO I just started pumping WD40 in to see what came out. There was a LOT of carbon dust inside the motor, which turned the drained WD40 dark black. After pumping 50cc or so into the case, I set it aside to drip dry and hosed out the other one in a similar manner. I swapped the motors left to right (for no particular reason) and swapped the wiper relay (from a cool location) for the rad fan relay, buttoned it back together, and tried it out. Both fans now start right up - tried for 10 cycles with nominal results, got bored, declared victory and called it a day.

So far so good. I will swap the fans for an OEM equivalent set next time they give me trouble, but if you find a similar issue with a car, try this trick before investing $$$ (or if you're in a hurry...).

Worked for me...

wrench

 

CAN SOMEONE PLEASE GIVE ME SOME INFO.

I am about to get a 1997 maxima
Has:
a sunroof
leather seat
wing in back

but im not sure what it is (gle, gxe, or se)

Also i plan to get it lowered with a eibach lowering springs kit and am wondering if i need new struts. And what springs you prefer?

There is also one problem with the car.... The odometer is broken. Is this a big issue?

Thanks alot guys

 

what color are the door handles?

 

ok new question for me. I've got a problem with my headlights. I don't know if its wiring shortage or if it's just a bulb needing replaced. Im currently missing my drivers side headlight. THe light will NOT come on when i turn the lights on. It will only come on when it wants too. If i turn on my brights it wont come on. HOWEVER i'll be driving sometimes and it'll just come on. if its not on and i turn on my brights, then my brights indicator won't show up but if both are on then it will? anybody else had this problem? Do i need to replace headlight wiring? would an HID kit solve this? i've taken the bulb out and looked at it, but since it comes on from time to time i figured it wasn't burnt out.


EDIT - does anybody know of a place or person that would know how to perform a VQ35 swap and if at all possible the 6 speed as well..? i can't really post new threads specifically calling out to all people but i'm willing to pay a reasonable amount i live in Jenks oklahoma or 74037

 

anybody have any ideas?

 

did you even try a new headlight before posting? Did you try to narrow possibilities at all? If you want a swap then read and do it yourself. If you have someone do it and something goes wrong in the future you won't know what to do to fix it. Do it yourself if you want it. Do some research.

 

I plan on getting some 18 inch rims for my 99 SE-L, and I was wondering what if how I can convert my bolt pattern to 5x130

 

you could do it by getting spacers that bolt the the hub and have new studs in them, but those kind are pretty big, so the offset on the wheels would be all crazy.

there are plenty of good wheels in 5x114.3

 

What would a bad offset mean?

I really like these rims, they're off a lambo, and they're 100 bucks for a set so If I can get em, I will.

 

Major rubbing and probably bad tire wear. Just listen and stay with 5x114.3.

 

well spacers big enough are going to push the wheels way out. so the rims your have to have the right offset to correct that. and would lambo rims even be the right offset to begin with? i doubt it.

 

I need help on replacing the axel seals is it difficult as there is a big leak on one of them (passenger side ).I also need to know the oil pressure on the ATF cooling hose as it has a leak and needs to be replaced

 

Axle boots? Pretty big job. Axle has to come out I believe.

 

I have some of questions....

1. As far as gauge lights go do 98's have 194 or 74? If 74 can I use 194 or are the sockets for the two bulbs different?

2. I was thinking of a JWT or Stillen pop-charger but the JWT doesn't have temp sensor where as the Stillen does. However I was reading on the JWT install instructions that some models have and temp sensor and some use a tube that connects to the JWT, do 98's have a temp sensor?

3. Stupid question but performance should be similiar to each other right? Just that the stillen would be a little better due to the temp sensor slot? Oh and does anyone know if the stillen comes with that heat sheild like it shows on their website?

 

No not axel boot ,iam talking about the part of the axel where it enters the transmission box

I also need to know what type of hose could work as a good replacement for the ATF cooler hose

 

still needs to be removed from the tranny. I would go with fuel line so it's not going to leak.

 

1. 98's have #74 bulbs in the gauges.
2. Yes 98's have IAT. They all do. It's what monitors the intake temp. If the intake doesn't come with it you can cut a hole in the intake and install the IAT.
3.Do not get either. They are both a waste of money. You're going to pay what? Clost to $200 for one of these? Stillen will not be better cause of the IAT becuase you should install it on the JWT if you bought it too. All inatakes are the same if they are the same type. All HAI will take away low end and all CAI give low end. You should know this since you've been here for a while. I don't think stillen comes with a sheild. Get a CAI if you want an intake or stick stock.