I have a question. I have a 1996 Nissan Maxima 5spd. No power to fuel pump. I believe I've checked all fuses, relays, etc. But still, no power to fuel pump. I ran jumper wires to the pump directly from the battery, car ran superb! This is quite baffling, and I've searched the sight already with no luck, I also read my haynes manual with no luck. I checked for some sort of safety cut out, but didn't find anything. I do have cel codes, one of them is the knock sensor, but would that stop the fuel pump, but still let the car run when I jump the pump?

Thanks All,
Len

P.S. I'm a mechanic buy trade, actually do that as a side job for a local shop, so I am pretty knowledgable about normal mechanics.

 

that thing looks hideous. But it is your car. Stillen or Ionic Dimensions. Only two i'd go with in front and rear I think. Sides are different tho.

 

Hey, i recently just purchased a 95 Maxima 165k automatic. The owner said that it has trouble starting when the weather is cold (it would crank but not turn over) but when it did start it ran fine. I figured that it could be easily repaired.

After I bought it i drove it home with no problems, a few days later I put in a new battery from Auto Zone and took the car for a tune-up and to find out what was causing the starting trouble. The next day mechanics told me that the problem is from someone placing two mis-matched computers in the car and that I needed to take the car to Nissan to find out the correct number. The car started up fine after a few attempts and ran well. I made a few stops before going to work and had no problems until i turned the key in the ignition but got no response from the engine. The interior/exterior lights still come on as they should but the engine does not crank at all and there was no clicking from the ignition when the key is turned.

When i tried jumping the battery it would faintly crank but would die out. It seemed as if something is draining the battery. Could this be the alternator or starter that caused the battery to drain? or could this be linked to the two mis-match computers? I did some research on our site and others and having two mis-matched ecu's doesnt make sense. Is there a inexspensive or easy way to resolve this? I only had the car for a week and do not have any more money to spend on repairs. I need help, Thanks.

 

Is anyone interested in buying a 96 maxima in the new orleans area. 136000 miles and runs perfect. Small dent in the back. Interior is in perfect condition. looking for 3500 or best offer. PM for pictures if interested.

 

I have a question

I brought a 99 Nissan Maxima that was rebuild after being in what Im guessing a pretty bad wreck and sometimes while Im driving Ive noticed that the Air Bag Light would come on and also the check engine light.

How do I reset these lights. I doubt there is an actually problem with the car since it had to go through a whole series of test once it was fully rebuild?



I am not all about Car Talk or Car Language so plain and simple english would be great.

Thanks

 

The check engine light can be reset by anybody with a OBD2 tester. I know that auto zone/advanced auto will check it for you for free, but I don't know if they'll clear them for you. I'd say 1 out of 5 garage mechanics now own an OBD tester, and they only take about 5 minutes at the most to clear the lights.

I don't know how to actually test the air bag light. Maybe somebody else can figure that one out for you, or, if you know who did the work you can have them test it.

Now, just because the car was rebuilt, and inspected, doesn't mean it's good. I know of a couple shops in my area that are real hacks, and still get the cars through the inspection. One of the most common ways for them to save $$ is to just replace the air bags, and say to heck with the sensors and such, which are supposed to be replaced anytime the air bags deploy. Before buying any used car with a salvage title, you should always spend the few bucks, and have a shop check it. Most shops in my area charge under $100 for a pre purchase inspection, where they go through just about everything and let you know what are the area of concerns.

Good luck,
Len

 

I have a 95 max, it runs great. However when I am driving I hear a little knocking to rattle sound coming from the front tires when I go over bumps in the road. I also hear a squeaking noise. I have replaced the struts, springs, tie rods, control arms, ball joints and CV joints. What do you all think the problem could be? I am all out of ideals.

 

Knock Sensor Would Not do that, as a matter of fact knock sensor wont even trigger the CEL

What's your voltage, but Im going to go ahead and assume your alternator is on the way out.
Also does the battery and brake light stay on after you turn it on.

you are asking to get banned.

 

What's your voltage, but Im going to go ahead and assume your alternator is on the way out.
Also does the battery and brake light stay on after you turn it on.

I just got it back from the mechanic they say it was the starter. but it still starts hard. The battery and brake lights do not come on but the check engine light is on. I dont know how to check the voltage of the alternator, i dont know if i need to replace its soon. Im a total newbie, i got the directions on how to do a self-diagnostic so i'll try to get the codes, maybe that will help.

Could there be a reason of the hard start? it only happens when i first start the car for the first time in the day. After driving a while it starts up fine.

 

Hey everyone FallenOne here ive been around the .org for a few months now but havent really gotten around to posting much. i usually dont find the need to seeing as i almost always find the answer to my question, but ill skip to the chase here.

Q. I have a 98 Maxima and i was hoping to do the "Override cruise control auto shut off " mod that i found on VQpower.com the Url being http://www.vqpower.com/v2/readarticle.php?article_id=28

but yes let me get to the question: my Max's Relay boxes differ from those seen in the pictures for this tutorial, and im hoping that there are still ways of accomplishing this mod? any help would be appreciated

let me specify the diffrence im noticeing. First of all my ASCD fuse is in a whole diffrent box. the one in the tutorial is seen by the passenger side front strut. mine being in the box jsut below the front of the battery. as well as the connection differing if im not mistaken, any advice?

 

one day i noticed on the drivers side of the car, under the engine bay on the bottom side of the engine that there was a square box with a tube-shaped outlet with a 90 degre bend on it, looks to be part of the air intake sistem. i barelly polled on it and it came loose on my hand, its now sitting on my trunk. does anyone know what that part is, does, or if i should bother putting it back in or not?

 

It's a resonator (intake). It helps smooth the engine out and lowers noise.

 

Sounds like a loose caliper. Rattles just a bit here and there.

Len

 

thanks for the info man.. 13 posts to go.. hehe..

 

I have a 1996 Maxima with close to 300k miles on it. I am seeing antifreeze leak. I am pretty sure this is the water pump. I also have a timing chain kit and the nissan manual. I say about 6 hours of work and I can replace the timing chain, front main seal, water pump as well as anything that might be leaking oil on the side. Basically the side of the engine towards the front of the car towards the passenger side (near the front side of the motor) has oil oxidized residue. I replaced the vale cover gaskets but now I am thinking it is something maybe behind the timing chain cover.

So this is my dilemma. Do I replace that, or do I just go get a 99 Maxima Engine, pull it from a junk yard for anywhere from $200-$300 if they pull it for me and just swap the engine out? That way, I can get something newer, for under 100k miles, and I can replace all seals, my clutch, basically make sure everything is in tip top shape before sticking it in there. I will then have my old motor out of the car and I can even rebuild it with the timing chain and everything and possibly sell that off or keep for spare parts.

Thoughts?

I already have the timing chain and water pump. My buddy will help me do the Engine swap for $300 on top of what the motor cost me plus any seals or parts I might need to buy like a clutch etc...

So roughly $600 to build the dang thing : )... He says once the engines hit high mileage like mine, when you start taking things apart, more things end up breaking.

I love this car and it drives good and is in great shape!...

Or would it be worth it to try and put a more powerful engine in the car? Now, I would still want good gas mileage.

 

I have read and searched plenty in the past month...thanks for all of the info. No for my question, After reading that the ks is known to fail i hooked up my laptop and low and behold i have a knock sensor code. Jumped on ebay and got a new ks, installed it and still had a code for it (after clearing the code). I took the new sensor off and checked each terminal to the center post (ground). on one terminal i got 0 ohms and on the other i got open loop. I checked my old sensor and it read 0 ohms on one and 2.1 gohm on the other. I then plugged it in and checked from center to the other end of the pigtail getting 2.1 on one and open on the other (i realize that the shield terminates before the ks connector). Hooked the laptop back up and still have the code. Reset codes, shut off ignition, turned ignition back on and code came back. Are the readings i got ok or should i be looking elsewhere in the harness? Thanks in advance. Oh yea, its a 98 se 5spd...144,000
Edit: i also replaced the wire ends on the grounds at the front of the intake.

 

N00B question:

What is this board called? He calls it PCB, but I can't find the stuff anywhere? Is there a more specific name? It looks like it has no metal contacts, just holes

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/readarticle.php?article_id=88

Help?

 

Looks more like breadboard to me. RadioShack

 

I'd personally just do the water pump and maybe the timing chain tensioner. I did that on my 95 and it really isn't that bad.



That is a whole new ball game with different reasoning. Of course I'd vote for this, but do some research before making a decision. Make an informed decision vs an uninformed impulsive decision.

http://forums.maxima.org/forumdisplay.php?f=61

 

Readings should be taken under load. My advice, buy a harness ($15) from Courtesy or Pinnacle or any other ( http://forums.maxima.org/forumdisplay.php?f=9) place, install, and see what it does.

 

I have a problem with my 99 Max. I have a 1320 code and I have changed all of the spark plugs with NGK platinums, I changed all of the ignition coils since I wasn't getting a code for a specific one. I had the crank shaft postion sensor replaced, and I even had the knock sensor replaced. After doing all of this the light stayed on and it read the same code. After all that I had all of the ignition coil harness tested and cleaned, and I still have the same problem. I had the wiring checked out and the only unusal thing that was found was a purple wire coming from the stereo head unit to the tach, which the mechanic said shouldn't affect the check engine light. Does anybody know of anything else I could possibly do?

 

My friends car is having issues, the car is an 95 GXE automatic, stock everything, 130K. While the engines hot, When taking off, there is a fast vibration until the RPM's reach around 2500 @ slow speeds only. Its almost like hitting the brakes in a car with severely warped rotors, but only while accelerating. There are no noises to accommodate the shaking. Engine oil looked clean, and was at the appropriate level, same with the ATF fluid. All engine fuses are fine. No warning lights are on. When in park, and at idle it runs and sounds fine. Idle is normal. I tried searching.. guess you know why im posting here.

The funny part, While I was checking his car out, I noticed a large gauge wire running from the battery through the fire wall, Stereo/amp wire. I asked him if he had his subs hooked up and he said no. I poped the trunk and wouldnt you know it, the (live)Positive and ground wires were just laying there about 10mm apart. They had to have touched several times. I removed the fuse @the battery. His HU is dead, and only the driver's automatic window works.

After the fuse was removed, the car seemed to run fine.No more shaking. His milage is good and power equal to my sisters SE, so I think the KS is ok. But it had cooled down and was not at NOT. Since his car was not equipped with a volt meter, I have no idea if that was actually the cause. I hate to ask a general question like this, but all my expertise is in Rotaries and he doesnt know how to use forums. Any thoughts idea's would be fantastic. I will not abandon this.

What I told him to do for now... Seafoam, injector cleaner, trans/rad flush, Replace trans fluid with high grade synthetic, Gave him a fuse tester to start checking fuses, oil change, Spark plugs, air filter, general tune up stuff. Anything you guys think I should add to the list?

 

Hi, I own a nissan maxima 97 model and it s best car i have evr used. recently i have the service dengine light on and i found the erro code to be PO744 after the diagnostic.

i have looked at some information in these forums regarding these codes.
but i am not sure how do i go about fixing the torque convertor clkutch intermittent problem. a guy at AMCO suggested me to built the tranny and soo....on.

i am also looking for a mechanic /auto maxima professional. i live in Bay Area (San jose) . if the experts here belong to my area please let me know i would like suggestions . also experts form other places....please help me/guide me through this problem. the car is running fine but it doesnt go above certain speed/gear ...when the rpm is increased above 2000 i hear a noise from the hood and the car is able to reach only max speeds of 45-55 m/hr and not more than tht.

i am using it since i have no other way to travel to work...i am very concerned abotu this since i am advised that the car might stop/die anytime soon.....please help

 

I think it's more than the water pump. I am now seeing it over heat and there is some petroleum in my radiator and I am going to try and get by till next weekend. I just picked up a Maxima Engine, 1999 with under 70k on it from a junk yard for $400 with the alternator and compressor included.

When I get it swapped and get the old engine off, I will rebuild it just for the fun of it : )... Then oh who knows, I might sell it on Ebay for $400 just to get my money back for what I bought my new engine for.

I'll let you know how it goes....

 

I checked my harness and got 0 ohms from one end to the other (the short harness that plugs into the ks). Then to rule out breakdown under load i applied 1036 volts across the wire and got perfect readings.

 

I got the power steering pump too : ) Pretty much everything that is attached to the motor.

 

I replaced the blown engine in my 1996 Maxima about November, 2006, but every since then, if I shift the shift lever on my auto trans into first gear, it acts as if it is in 2nd gear and shifts to second, and sometimes it even acts like its in "D", but this is an intermittent problem, it dont always have this problem, sometimes it stays in 1st like it should. I never had this problem before the engine swap. I have tried everything I can think of! Can anybody tell me what would cause this and how I can fix it? Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

2 things. 1, what kind of transmission fluid did you use? 2, did you check your linkage? Your transmission mounts perhaps might be bad?

 

I used Mercon Dexron transmission fluid, but I can tell you this, just about all of my engine / transmission mounts have been bad since I got the car, I didnt even think about that before, but even though they are bad, I did not have this problem before I replaced the engine, even though the mounts were bad, so what could explain why this started when I replaced the engine? And also some info that I have not yet given about this is that when 2nd gear is selected, if I really throw the power to it, and it downshifts, 1st gear goes through a sprague (1 way) clutch, then it shifts back into 2 when I let off, and does not go through 1 way clutch, but when 1st is selected, it shifts into 2, but if I WOT and cause it to downshift, it does not go through the 1 way clutch, but it still shifts back into 2nd when I let of the pedal, so why would it not go through the 1way clutch when 1st is selected, but still do it when 2 is? Also, on rare occasion, when I have it in 1st, it acts as if it is in "D" and goes all the way to overdrive, this is very strange, it is almost as if it has a mind of it's own. Any info or advice on that?

btw, I have checked the linkage, and adjusted it countless times, and it never makes a difference

And just so I can "kill 2 birds with 1 stone" so that I dont have to make another post to ask this, I also have this question:

Is there any way possible that I can install an Idle Up switch inside this car so that I can turn it on and cause the idle speed to be higher? I have already done some stuff with the Fast Idle Solenoid for Power Steering, but it only made a minute difference, about 1200 RPM at most, is there any way I can either force the idle control valve to open more to achieve a higher idle speed, and also, is there any way I could do this with the Cruise control system? (I am talking about when the car is in Park or Neutral).

Again, any help with these 2 things would be greatly appreciated.

 

TCM problems maybe.

I use the CEL reset screw to get my idle ~ 900RPM. Play with that and see what you can do. Ok, CC system? You mean use it to up your idle?

 

Well, yes, I am trying to rig up something so I can have a normal idle speed, but then (temporarily) when I need it, a very high idle speed, say, about 1500 RPM, but only when I need it, I am thinking maybe I can use CC to do this. is that possible?

 

I would use my right foot.

 

Hello out there,

I am having trouble with my cooling system,
at first i there was a leak in my rad system somewhere which turned out to be a pinhole leak in a hose. from there my heat has been coming and going,

Currently i have no heat, my coolant resivoir is full, and my 2nd Larger fan is running (only comes on when the motor is overheating)

HELP PLEASE! Just Pm me with suggestion/responses!

Thanks!

 

Did you replace the hose?

T-stat maybe? Is the engine overheating?

 

Uh-Oh, you didnt use that stuff from the auto part store that (claims to) fix leaks did you? I can only hope you didnt, I have seen it used by other people before, and it caused problems similar to this.

 

but you see, the problem is, I am trying to run things that have very high electrical demands, and I need the RPM for the alternator, but usually this is only when parked. I cannot hold my pedal steady for this long, and also, many times, I might not even be at the driver's seat, basically I am making many modifications here, and I have actually removed the front passenger seat for the space, I am at a college daily, and I am eating Lunch and having my breaks in this car, but I am also running things that have very high electrical demands, basically, I have turned this car into a mini RV

Anyway, is there anyway I can do this with CC? so that I can get maximum electrical output from CC while parked? This would be a great help to me so that I dont have to set my idle speed so high that I can accel to 40MPH without even pressing the pedal!

 

Tighten the holy hell out of the throttle linkage, this will be full time and not on demand though. are you running under there that you demand this power, a small suburb?

 

Yet another problem with a full idle that is this high, I have an automatic transmission, and throwing it into gear with that kind of idle will destroy it very quickly, I cant afford a new transmission! jeez! Anyway, I think I have found the answer, all I have to do is disconnect the wire going from the VSS to the ASCD module, and give it a false signal, and also rig something up with that inhibitor relay, so now all I need to know is what kind of signal the ASCD module receives to find the speed, is that a pulse signal, or is it a voltage? If it is a voltage, then all I need to do is use a potentiometer, aka variable resistor, but if it is a pulse, then I will need to think of something else... So if anyone knows the type of signal that tells the ASCD the speed, then please tell me, this would greatly help!

 

VSS is frequency.

Unless you do the CEL reset screw deal like I did (900RPM) you're out of luck.

 

No, I see alternatives, what about the CC pump, if I could design a relay or a momentary contact switch that activates the vacuum / release, so all I need to know there is what the voltage is on the pump, does anybody know the voltage that pump and its solenoids are designed for?