It's a problem with old links after the site was hacked, they wrote a script for it.

You must Cut & Paste the link and change SHOW to OLD, in you're example

Change http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=378748

To http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=378748

 

not from my searches including rockford,fosgate, and in dash, and 6 disc.

but i will keep doing research.

 

My brother just baught me a stage 3 clutch off of ebay (lol) as a gift for my 96 SE, it's a 6 puck has the throw out bearing and alignment tool - other than me being weiry of an ebay clutch, it being a "STAGE3" makes me think of more track than road use, i dont have forced induction (yet) and just have basic bolt ons,

My question is, do you think it would be a bad idea to have this clutch installed, being that this is my daily driver as well as being n/a asp?? it's the f1 racing stg3 clutch.......

 

are the fuel line hoses at checkers suitable as cooling hoses?

 

yea they should work just fine

 

What I found on the internet:

"i have the act 6 puck and alot of people told me not to get it b.c its suposaly hard for daily driving, the only time it gets bad is when im in traffic cuz it does have a pretty harsh engagement then but thats really the only time i notice it. i also plan on going turbo thats why i got it... and chirpin 3rd gear is pretty sweet"

 

I have a '96 Max that I've owned about 4 months and keep having to put money into (tires, lights, engine repairs, etc.) and am so upside down in at this point, I'm not going to sell it. I'm wondering if instead of saving up and buying a new car, if it would be practical to consider a VQ35 and transmission swap. So I guess my question is this;

Nicest car I can get for 6k?

Or a VQ35 6spd max with a little ways left to go towards being a whole new car?

Any input appreciated

Thanks

 

Quick question:

I've installed new heated seats, but haven't hooked up the power to the heating elements yet. Also, I will be adding lcd headrests.

My question: Can I run the heated seats and LCD headrests off one wire connected to the fusebox? (using the mini-add a circuit thing)

If so, would I have to bump up the 15a fuse that people normally are using the heating elements? Thanks!

 

Hey guys
I've a question about an automatic transmission

Is it better to rebuild or get a used transmission at a junkyard?
Some people say it is better to get another used tranny some prefer rebuilding the old one. I know for sure though that if the mechanic who does the rebuilding
doesnt do as much of a good job the tranny will break down pretty soon. Also some guys say rebuilt transmissions don't last very long (What do you guys think? How long would the rebuilt one last ?) I personally think it would be better to get a used tranny with low mileage than rebuild the old one. Now again, from the junkyard or say car-part, you don't know what you get. They may say the tranny has 50000 but really it ma have over a hundred. And what about AAMCO? I lookep up their site and they have different warranty plans including lifetime (but I think its bullcrap) Are they reliable ? Or Would you rather choose a local repair shop?

appreciate any input

 

I hope this sounds familiar to someone:

I parked my '98 w/120k after driving about 30 minutes. Turned off car. Noticed a soft whirring/whining/buzzing sound coming from area of driver side rear tire. Over the next few minutes, the sound would appear for 5 - 10 seconds, then stop. After another 15 - 20 seconds, it would resume. Everything on the car is still off. Key is out of the ignition. As I was poking around, I loosened the gas cap. I got a very healthy rush of air. After that, the sound stopped.

I drove the car later and so far haven't been able to recreate it. Any thoughts would be appreciated!

 

Ok yes I'm new and have turned to the al'mightties for some help

Here's the thing, in the past year I've had to replace the slave master cylinder twice, it's gone on me a third time clearly making it nor the only problem. Thing is, now i'm in over my head. Can't quiet figure out what else this can lead to fixing and have been fed loads of crap form the dealership about what needs to be fixed. Not a lot of info provided I know but anyones guess is better than nothing

please and thank you

 

Well, your concerns about mileage are valid. For automatics it's reasonably good guess of condition, and probably all you have to go by. Rebuilding autos is expensive and IMO rather pointless since used low mileage autos are readily available.

Manual trannys are a completely different animal. Mileage is not the the most important factor.

The most important is the condition of the manual tranny internals - bearings, gears, etc. Many 4th gen 5 speeds were not put together right from the factory, and depending on how not right they will not last very long. Some last 50k, some last 100k, some last 150k. Mine lasted 120k. Every single one is a gamble - you may get a well-assembled tranny that will go another 200k, or it may have 50k and be nearly shot.

If you get a used manual tranny, I recommend taking it to a reputable manual tranny rebuilder - they can crack it open and have a peek and tell you how things are inside. This way you can take it back or fix it before it's been installed.

Finding a competent rebuilder is another issue entirely. Aamco has some good shops, some bad. I've rebuilt 4th gen trannys that had signs of being professionally rebuilt and they were missing parts inside (!!!). Many, many of them repeated or exacerbated the original mistake and didn't shim the bearings properly. Running a tranny with bad bearings until you're forced to fix it may make it unrebuildable or very expensive to rebuild. Most shops will not have any used Maxima tranny parts available to them, so their rebuild price will skyrocket if any hard parts break.

I base my comments on the fact that I've rebuilt or inspected close to two dozen 4th gen manual trannys. It's not based on one or two, it's based on many. Now I *don't* get to see the ones that last, so I can't tell you how likely a tranny is to develop an early problem. But there are many out there.

Dave

 

IMO opinion as long as the wire is thick enough to support it you shouldn't have an issue, just make sure its fused properly.

for my own question..

on my 95 auto, i have trouble starting it where it takes four or five times to get her going and i have to give her a little gas. Is this the infamous starter issue I've heard of on this forum?

And random side questions: Would the starter have anything to to do with the problem of it randomly turning off at traffic lights? I have to repeat the same process as mention above. On top of all of which I have an oil leak as well. Am i doomed?

 

I would run one thick are create 2 circuits on that wire one for the seats and one for the lcd each one being fused properly as suggested

no the starter wouldn't be the cause of the car shutting off at the light...does your idle drop instantly and just shut off or does it tremble and then shut off?

 

just drops instantly, no trembling. do you think the starter is the issue with the startup though?

 

Hi everyone,
I am new here and can't wait until I have my 15 posts.

Here is the issue with my 1996 Maxima with 104,000 miles. At times usually when it has not been run in a few hours or overnight it will start and stall out right away. The only way to keep the car going is to quickly give it some gas before it stalls out, and then it will be just fine. Without touching the gas pedal it will just keeping stalling out. If you keep letting it stall out, then hit the gas a bit the exhaust will smell horrible for a bit. Any ideas?

Thanks,
Zack

 

Hi everyone,
Here is my second question, the radiator in my 1996 Maxima is OEM and it is leaking at the top. Is there a specific brand of radiator to buy that is better than the rest? How much should I expect to spend? Is it hard t o change?

Thanks,
Zack

 

Doesn't sound like it...b/c your giving it gas it might have something to do with fuel delivery...i.e. fuel pump injectors something along those lline...since it just shutting off like that too I would have to go also with fuel delivery ..it just might be the fuel pump not pushing enough fuel through

 

you can get an oem one unless you going to be a lot of performance upgrades then I would go with something better

 

I have no idea how to post on this site since I am new to doing so. Not new to the site however.. I have used this site before to fix my 1998 SE but have never asked a question. And as I said before I may not be going about it the right way. So forgive. My drivers side door just recently seems to have dropped a few centemeters and is not closing correctly. I have spent hours searching for how to adjust with no luck. I did find a link to auto zone and info on adjusting the hindge bolts that attach the door to the car to fix the problem. but I was told I have to take it to a dealer to have worn bolt in the hinge itself replaced. Any imput. Thanks

 

does the bolt just spin not tightening? You can go to any shop to get the bolt removed and put in a bolt thats the same size...just loosen bolt pull the door up a lil but ...it's good to use a 2nd person if you dont have one...just use a tire jack...loosen the bolts...put the jack under the door careful not to overdue you can scratch and bend the bottom...and adjust it to a good height...and tighten let me know how it goes

 

The 2 bolts attached to the door and the 2 bolts that attach the body of the car ( both upper and lower hindge) have never been touched and are as tight as can be. Its the pin in the upper hinge itself that appears to have a little play in it. This seems to be the reason the door itself is dropped a little. I can live with it if it's too expensive to fix by myself. But I was wondering if that can be compensated for by adjusting the bolts or is there another way of fixing the problem without taking it to the stealership. I really appreciate your advice. Also since I got you ..how can I find out if there are any Maxima enthusiasts in Rhode Island that can steer me to a reasonable repair shop that knows and cares about us poor 4th generation Maxima owners.
Thanks

 

look in the group deal section. there is a GD on radiators

 

you can try to adjust the bracket mounts, but it will probably not help much. you may want to check with the dealer and see if you can get a door hinge repair kit.

 

I agree..I know you don't want to go to a stealership but this sounds like the best solution...maybe try to see if you find anything online before you go there good luck

 

I appreciate the help. Thanks

 

Thanks dgeesaman for your input. But I should have mentioned in my post that my transmission is an AUTOTRAGIC and thus I'd like to see some info concerning those.

 

When I drive over 40mp the car starts to make sort of a continuous "hum hum mum mum" noise which comes from the rear of the car (I hear it from the right side but I'm not entirely sure). As the speed increases the noise becomes more high pitched (at about 60-70 mph) but not as loud as it is at low speed (say 30-40mph). Now...I had almost the same noise in the right front and it turned out to be a bad wheel bearing. So now I was convinced that the noise would be the cause of a bad bearing. So to make sure I changed both rear wheel bearing assemblies. But the noise still persistsOne thing I din't check was switching to different tires. Do you think a bad tire would make that noise? However the tires are in good shape and don't have any abnormal wear signs. My mechanic says that tires would make such noise and the problems is definitely not bad bearings but the tires' design or something like that. But how come the tires did not make that noise before? I don't know.... I think I should try switching the tires first and not waste money for the new wheel hubs (so stupid ) What would guys your opinion/advice be? Have you had a problem like that or a similar one ? How did you resolve it ?

Thanks for help

 

HI everyone,
I have read the entire exhaust thread, however I still don't know what to do with the exhaust on my 1996 Maxima. The car is totally stock and it will remain that way, however the ENTIRE exhasut is shot after 104,000 miles. The flex part of the Y pipe is bad, and the muffler is shot as well. It seems that a new Y pipe on the aftermarket is almost $450.00 and the exhasut is expensive as well. I don't want to spend a huge amount of money, and I don't want to hurt performance. What type of Y pipe and exhaust should I go with? What vendor? Who makes the best quality product at a good price? I don't want the exhaust very loud either.

Thank you,
Zack

 

HI everyone,
As a new member I have read many threads about using a 300ZX fuel filter on my 1996 MAxima. What year 300ZX filter do I buy? Is it a direct fit install? What is the benefit to using the 300ZX filter?

Thanks,
Zack

 

you buy a 96. you want one off of a TT (twin turbo). so, ask for the "1996 300zx TT fuel filter".

and yes its a direct fit. that flexible metal bracket that the existing one sits in bends out perfectly and fits the bigger size well.

ive had mine on for about 4 months with zero problems, either from it moving or leaking.

its a quick, easy and cheap maintenance mod. the reason its better is not because it is a better filter, its just bigger. basically the advantage to gettin the 300zx over the OEM size is that it will last nearly twice as long because it has twice the filtration area. and if youre spending 13 dolllars on a new one anyway, you might as well go for the one that will last longer...

 

well, take it from me, from someone whos owned three maximas, these things are bulletproof. so if you take car of your car regularly, it will last welll into the 200s, if not the 300s.
personally, since you dont seem to have much money to spare (like me) i would stick to the 96 and maintain/mod it.

plus, for 6 grand you arent going to get that much better of a car. you could even get unlucky and buy a worse car...

but yea for 6k you could buy a 00 or 01 5th gen with 130+k on it.
as far as doing stuff yourself though, the 4th gen is much easier to work on.

 

yea tires could definitely be an issue. they could be out of balance, or just have a flat spot from sitting too long in one place.
how long have you had the tires?
have you left the car sitting for a long period of time?

have you gotten them balanced?

do you feel a pulsing when you apply the brake gently?




you can get a brand new stainless Y pipe for 235 shipped to your door.

the place i would recommend is www.budgetexhaust.com

there are other options, warpspeed Y and cattman Y, but both of those have their drawbacks. i think the overall concensus on this site is that budget has the best product for the money.


however with these aftermarket y pipes, you will be removing your two forward cats, which will hurt your emissions before the car is fully warmed. i dunno what state youre in, but you will fail emissions testing unless you let your car warm up a good while before it is tested.

if you want just a stock Y pipe, you can get them for 100-150 shipped off from members here.
i might have one for sale in the next month as well.

 

Ok thanks. I would like to keep things stocks, I don't want to get into mods that mess with the emmissions stuff. What about the rest of the exhaust? Is there a good vendor/system that would meet my needs?

If I did remove the two forward cats, does that trip the check engine light? Is there a benefit to dumping the forward cats?

Thanks,
Zack

 

Is that site just a general exhaust website listing?

Zack

 

well, like i said the emissions thing only pertains to when your car is warming up. after like 20 minutes, it would be the same as stock.

no, removing the forward cats will not trip the CEL

and the perk to removing them is increased horsepower, becuase the car can breath that much better. ive heard numbers ranging from 8hp to 20hp, simply by putting on an aftermarket Y.


and no youre not going to be able to find an OEM y pipe unless its from a member here. you can go to the dealership, but it will cost and arm and a leg.

 

im sorry its not .com
its .ca cuz its in canada

http://www.budgetexhaust.ca/

 

thats not budget lss's website unless they are making a new one...again.

 

When I got my test pipe from them, that little dude on that site is the same one that came on the decals in the same box as my test pipe.

 

hmmm...guess they are making a new site again.