use a 14mm socket or open end wrench

 

I have a 90 max and a 95 max, is there any interchangeable parts that I could fit from the 90 max to the 95 max?
You see the engine in my 90 max is in excellent condition but it has out lived the body while the body of my 95 max is in good condition but under the hood it's not as good as my 90 max.
the 90 max is V6 3.0 SE
the 95 is V6 2.0 24v

any suggestions?

 

your 95 has a 2 liter v6?

 

95 is also 3 liter, the 90se engine was only rated for 160hp whereas the 95 rated 190, so I dont think you would want to swap them. Theres probly a couple other engine differences that someone in the motor section could tell you about.

 

Check Engine Codes:
0504
0801

I have a 96 GXE AUT maxima and the runs reallyu greats but I have a CEL so i looked and that gave me theses codes, anyone knows what could be happening? (sorry for my english, not too good)

 

0504

Diagnostic Trouble Code 0504 points to a problem with the Automatic Transmission Communications line. Pulse signals are exchanged between the Engine Control Module and the Transmission Control Module to assure smooth shifting during hard acceleration or deceleration.

This malfunction is detected when the ECM continuously receives an incorrect voltage from the TCM. Possible causes include...
- Harness or connectors (The communications line circuit between the ECM and the TCM is open or shorted.)
- TCM
- Discharged or faulty battery




0801

Diagnostic Trouble Code 0801 points to a problem with the Vacuum Cut Valve Bypass Valve. The malfunction is detected when an improper voltage signal is sent to the Engine Control Module through the VCVBV. The possible causes of this problem include a defect with the wiring or electrical connector, or with the valve itself. The VCVBV is located under the car, near the rear left tire. It is near the Evaporative Emission Canister but not mounted directly on it.

The VCVBV is a solenoid-controlled air valve. You may remove it from the vehicle and perform a bench test. There are two air hose nipples on the valve. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric connector. The polarity doesn't matter. With the VCVBV solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.




it can all be found here:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=76800




though these codes sound related to each other, both having to do with incorrect voltage signals

 

What I don't understand is the tranny is shifting very smoothly, like it was when i didn't have that CEL, everything looks perfect except the check engine light

A week from that I had a check engine too, it was the KS and the air intake temperature sensor, I replaced those and 3hours later got this new CEL
something related?

 

those 2 codes are not related at all. just about every possible CEL is set off by an incorrect voltage signal, that is how the ecu knows there is a problem.

since you just did work on your car i would recommend resetting the ecu and then see what codes come back.

 

After I did the KS job and the air intake temprature sensor job, I resetted de ECU and I started the car about 4-5 times and there was no CEL.
2-3hours later when I was driving I saw the CEL come back again.

 

yea, he doesn't live in the US, there was a 2L version of the VQ

 

there's not really anything you can transfer over, totally different motors

 

did it come back as the same code? or new ones?

 

new ones, the first 2 codes were the codes of the knock (0302) and the code of the air intake temperature sensor (don't remember exactly the code) and now I have 2 new codes, thats what I don't understand because the car works really great

 

So, what are the new codes in question? Post them, and we can probably be of further assistance.

there are many sizes/variations of VQ available around the world.

And/or resistance.

 

there are the code in question, I had already posted it

 

Have you checked what is suggested?

 

i'm not good in mechanic i'll probably hire someone to check it up!

 

Thanks for help guys, I guess I'll have to scrap my 90 max
I'll miss it.

But hey, at least I can work on my 95
BTW what about spark plugs and coils etc?

 

coils will most likely be good. in 6 months of reading on this forum 3+ hours a day ive never heard of a 95 with failing coilpacks


plugs though, you should replace ASAP, even if just for peice of mind.

go with NGK plugs (either copper, platinum or iridium). coppers are about 3 bux each, platinum/iridium cost between 9-12 each.
i went with platinum and have been quite happy.
do not put bosch or any other brand of plug in a maxima


plus there are other relatively cheap maintenance things you can do

1) replace air filter (get an OEM nissan filter, from a dealership)
2) replace fuel filter (i put a 300zxtt one in mine, does the same thing just lasts longer than the maxima stock one)
3) swap your power steering fluid w/ synthetic
4) check all belts for cracking and all hoses for seepage/leaking/crustiness

 

i forgot to mention cleaning your throttle body (TB) and idle air control valve (IACV)

thats a cheap and good way to boost performance/mileage

 

Coppers are less than 2$ a piece actually.

 

Thanks ROCKART for the hints, I'll sort out the air and fuel filters when I get the chance. The belts and hoses are good.

I got me some NGK plugs (platinum tips) the last owner was going to replace them but never got round to it. So I'll install them when I get home from work I found the instructions using a link from this site.

Would I have to remove the TB before cleaning or can I use some spray cleaner?

 

DEFINITELY remove the entire section before cleaning it. DO NOT spray in there, becuase the crap that accumulates will get sucked into your manifold.
and the spray is actually called THROTTLE BODY CLEANER. i used the CRC stuff and it worked well.

just take a rachet and two 2inch extensions and get it off. you might want to replace the gasket, but i didnt and its fine. as long as youre down there, you might as well get the IACV off and well and give it a good scrubbing.

 

Cheers.
How long are we talking 1-2 hrs?

 

yea. about that for your first time.

 

Update..
Just replaced the front spark plugs but I ran out of daylight (Not much daylight after work over here) Gonna and try and do the back ones after work today.
I've already seen a significant difference in gear changes and performance
(but still not like my 90 )

 

Scan codes regardless of whether the CEL is on, might have a KS ghost code retarding timing, if you do it could be cracked, melted, bad, or you need to run premium. Check the resistance first. Also, I have the new-style knock sensors for sale.

 

wow this is good, okay well im a noob as well hello to all,i drive a 95 maxima se just bought it the guy put in 99 max motor in there, he replaced the axle the day i bought it, now everytime i turn it makes a clicking sound, its not the cv joint, since it has new axle. i took it to the shop the mech told i might have to replace the power steering rack, he said he can try just working with the p.s boot. but i read on here that it doesn't make a difference or anything. and also the ball joint needs to be replaced. my question is how expensive is this job, because i live on my own fulltime work/school i barely have time on top money is an issue, any help will be greatly appreciated, and thank you

 

also the check engine light just turned on and abs light blinks, he said that was due to putting in new airbags

 

You guessed right. I dont' have my 15 posts yet but I do have a question for you 4th gen guys...

I'm trying to find out if a 4th gen Maxima auto tranny with LSD would work on my 3rd Gen Altima. From the research I've done both the 4th gen Maxima and the 3rd gen Altima share the same non LSD tranny (RE4F04A), so I just want to find out if the Maxima tranny with LSD (RE4F04V) will work on my car.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

i have a maxi 97 and i droped it with some tien coilovers but im having some clicking sounds when i turn the wheels to either side

 

Axles and/or CV joint, I currently have the same issue as I dropped mine last weekend.

 

How much I might need one soon here.

 

If you have an SAFCII and are going to turbocharge, what other gauges would be needed?

 

I could think of a few, but...you might want to spend some quality time in here:
http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...sprune=-1&f=38

 

[SUSPENSION QUESTION]
G'day guys,

I love my Maxima, its a 1995 A32 model and I have a very easy question which I've searched through all 36 pages of this thread for and not found a yes/no answer to.

I am looking to replace my current stock suspension as it is just time it needs changing. I dont want to upgrade to anything like a performance part, I just want something to do the job and keep my awesome car going.

It occured to me that I have a sports suspension thing where a switch turns off a little motor on the unit that firms up the suspension when active, will I have to get some kind of fancy shocks and struts to replace because of this? I dont really care for the option of having the switch, I'm just wanting to know if it will fit if I just fit some stock shocks and all that?

Thanks in advance (and for reducing thread count)

 

Not sure where you heard that nonsense, but KYB GR-2's are great stock replacements.

 

Im looking for a body kit and trying to find a cheap way out before i spend alot of mone I found this one on ebay and am wondering if anyone knows if it is a good kit.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-96...spagenameZWDVW

 

Stillen is the best looking kit, so don't bother unless it is Stillen. That's my opinion.

 

Ok, i bought my 95 Max, 164k, automatic, a week ago. The owner said it has a starting problem n that he really doesnt want to fix it up and doesnt have a need for it anymore. It took a few attempts to get it started. Anyway i got the car and had a tune up done (new spark plugs, oil change, etc.) and was told that the starting problem is linked to two different computers that is in the car. Appearently, one computer was replaced with one that has the wrong number . The car was still able to start and run fine. Until one time i tried to start it but it would not crank, the ignition did not make that clicking noise when the key is turned either. The battery was replaced with a new one a few days ago, so the interior, head and tail lights still come on like their suppose to. Im taking it back to the auto shop that did my tune up on monday. I really dont know whatelse to do and I am out of money to spend. I need help. . .