I think that's the Placebo effect......

Huh?? You can post everywhere. You just can't start your own thread until you get past 15 worthy posts. Almost there.

 

No, 15, and sometimes they still dont get read.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by MAXIMAK99
Service Engine Soon Light still on problem code 1320

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I have a problem with my 99 Max. I have a 1320 code and I have changed all of the spark plugs with NGK platinums, I changed all of the ignition coils since I wasn't getting a code for a specific one. I had the crank shaft postion sensor replaced, and I even had the knock sensor replaced. After doing all of this the light stayed on and it read the same code. After all that I had all of the ignition coil harness tested and cleaned, and I still have the same problem. I had the wiring checked out and the only unusal thing that was found was a purple wire coming from the stereo head unit to the tach, which the mechanic said shouldn't affect the check engine light. Does anybody know of anything else I could possibly do?

Quote:
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
You have a 99, so I'd say coil packs are or should be on order.


Yeah I already knew what the code calls for but none of the mechanics that have been working on it seem to find anything wrong with the primary ignition. And if I take it to the stealership they are wanting to change all the ignition coils and spark plugs and then diagnose from there. The car itself is running fine and nothing is technicaly wrong according to what the mechanic has told me. And the shop that I take it to is ASE certified so I think they are reputable. It's just that damn Service Engine Soon Light coming on for no apparent reason.

 

How many warm up cycles does it take to get enough codes for emissions testing ?
I want to get it tested and registered asap but dont want to fail the test due to lacking codes.

 

If everything is fine, you should not have a problem with SRT. Did you recently have a code / problem? If so, did / have you fix it?

 

Well, Ive been driving it a few days with no check engine light so I guess its about time to go get it smog tested.
I have noticed that it doesnt want to idle when cold. Will this affect smog test results?

 

It depends on your area. Some places just run a scan, some monitor emissions, some visually inspect the engine etc.

 

 

Hey guys, I'm new here but have been reading the forums extensively lately due to being the market for a used car. You'll be happy to know I settled on a 98 GLE with 210km on it. One of the deal breakers for me was the amount of information available on the car from this site and sites linked from here and I thank you all for that. Hopefully I can speak as highly of my Maxima as the rest of you.

My question, and the only minor gripe I have about the car, is that when I turn the car on the Bose tape deck tries to eject a tape that isn't there. The clicking lasts for maybe 10 seconds and it still occurs even if I put a tape in. The eject button doesn't seem to be stuck but wondering if anyone has run into this and has any tips I could try.

 

I would ditch the BOSE system all together, sooner or later you're going to have more problems with it. And just out of curiosity how much did you pay for your Max? And is it 210km or miles?

 

Hello, I have a stupid question I have not been able to find an answer for. Does the automatic transaxle use the ATF to lubricate the differential or does it use gear oil. If so where might I find the fill & drain plugs for the differential?
TIA for any help.
Bruce

 

I hope to ditch the bose system in the future for a nav screen in the center panel or something but for now the focus of my budget will be on other mods first. The car has 210km and I paid 4400 Canadian for it.

 

Sounds like a good plan. The reason I asked about the pricing is because Im probably going to be selling my 99 Max with 173,000 miles on it. And I wanted to get an idea as to how to price it. Thanks for the info.

 

How long does it take two mechanics to put on struts and springs on the rear of a '95 Maxima SE and can an improperly placed spring cause the strut seal to fail?

 

www.kbb.com
www.nada.com

It typically costs about 1hr / wheel(corner). That is what I remember the std rate for it was. But if you have 2 dudes, it will take them 1/2 the time, but I'm sure that's not how they billed you.

What is the problem, seems as if you think you have a bad strut as an effect of a bad installation ?

 

They billed me 2 guys for four hours. I got hosed. I went to the mechanic today to replace the bad strut and one guy whipped off the strut and spring, compressed the spring took out the strut in about 20 minutes. Seeing that I got hosed. The mechanic felt guilty about not seeing the situation with the bad strut so he is not charging me labor. I have a busy job and I couldn't stick around before as this would never have happened to me.

 

so i recently had a kinked hose on the return side of my fuel rail. im sure that it caused my fuel pressure to go off the charts. what my question is would a kinked return hose cause my injectors to go static?? and also if they go static does it mean i pretty much need new ones?

 

just ATF, it is all linked together, the only drain plug i know of is in the bottom of the pan.

 

My kid put coins down the tape slot of my head unit - '98 Maxima - non-Bose - model # CN-585, and according to my favourite shop, it's pooched! For some strange reason I'm feeling like replacing with an OEM unit instead of aftermarket... I know, I know, there's no logic to that decision!

Anyhow, other than eBay and posting here, can anyone recommend a source for this unit (new or used?)....

John (johnsk8 at cogeco dot ca)

 

I've heard of an in dash phone factory. Has anyone else seen or heard of this. I have searched for more info and found it was an option but can't find any pics or write-ups. Can anyone give me more info. Thank you!

 

I'm a total nubcake and I have a quick question. I recently got a 99 Max SE and its having a delayed response when I gas it. I pulled codes and it said i need to replace an o2 sensor. But the previous owner said he took it to a mechanic and said it needed a new ks. But its not showing up in as a Trouble code. Should I go ahead and replace the KS anyway? Thanks

 

start with the O2, you may need to replace the KS in the end anyway, but o find O2s to be easier to replace

 

i've never heard of this, the only car phones i've seen in maximas were the old built in car phones. i think most people just use their cell phone now days.

 

those are about the only ways. waiting till you get 15 posts to post a wanted int he FS section, go to the junkyard or look on ebay

i don't see change sitting in the tape deck to kill the deck. i would think you could just pull it out, dump out the change, and keep on truckin. unless it actually did fry it.

 

lol @ coins in the tape slot.

what did he think was going to come out? candy?

 

Does anyone know a good brand for o2 sensors? Advance has Bosch, Niehoff, BWD, and Beck/Arnley.

 

Bosch is just fine.

 

1997 Maxima:
Will a high performance y pipe will still pass emisions (in Massachusetts) with front cats removed and attach to the rear cat also not set of a code?

 

1997 Maxima:
Will a high performance y pipe still pass emissions (in Massachusetts) with front cats removed and attach to the rear cat also not set of any code? Is a 20 minute warm up all that is needed to pass emission test?

Thanks

 

A coworker has a problem with his 1995 Maxima. The car stalled on him today and it will not start. The problem is not the alternator, the battery is charged fine. When I try to start the car I hear the relay click. From some research and him telling me he sometimes has difficulty getting the car to start, I thought it was the ignition switch. I thought this because this is the only reason I would think the car would stall and not restart. When I say restart, I mean it will not crank at all. I hear the fuel pump spool up and a click I believe is the relay, but that's it. All electronics, lights, radio and lights work.
I replaced the ignition switch but no joy...I still get a click. I checked the engine codes and get a 0100 and a 0325. I don't think these would prevent the starter from turning over would they? (MAF malfunction and Knock sensor malfunction).
I thought maybe a bad starter, but this would not cause the car to die while driving. I'm thoroughly stumped but I have no experience with this type of car.
This coworker is in dire straights and any help you could give me to help him fix his car would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Jason

 

Not a noob, but curious...

can i run the maxima without the air conditioning compressor on the belt? You know,

instad of the belt being on the idler pully, alt, compressor, and crankshaft....
make it idler pully, alt and crankshaft?

 

I believe the starter is bad. When the IGN switch goes, you cannot hear the click. When the starter goes, you can hear the click, bot nothing happens. It could also be bad grounds.

1.) Remove the starter and take it to your local AutoZone or any other part store and have them test it for free. Search on here as there are many threads on changing it. If you remove the airbox, it is in lain sight and straight forward to remove. Spend time under the hood, it doesn't take much.

2.) The stalling is caused by the MAF sensor, which you already have code for. Go to www.car-part.com and search under Air Flow Meter, they are cheap (less than 50$)

Perhaps send him to this site?

Been doing it for years. Search : Bypass AC




Yes, it will pass if the main cat is left on and the car is allowed to reach operating temperature prior to emissions testing.

 

Many thanks for the info. I will get the starter out and check it.

 

I've searched and searched but never found a definitive answer. I have a 98 se that did not come with keyless, however, behind the antenna is a cable taped up that has a white plug with 4 wires in it. My question is...do I just need to buy a keyless module and keyfob?

 

I have searched and found some information on removing the dash but have another question about installing the navigation from pioneer. I have heard problems about watching dvds when u travel above 10-15 mph.

Is this becuase of the speed sensor wire? Where is that located and should i not connect it?

Also

 

I have searched and found some information on removing the dash but have another question about installing the navigation from pioneer. I have heard problems about watching dvds when u travel above 10-15 mph.

I know how to do the bypass. But...

Is this becuase of the speed sensor wire? Where is that located and should i not connect it?

Also any more indepth information on removing the dash where the radio is?

 

Probably not a good idea to watch DVD's @ an speed.

Since the VSS is frequency driven, that might cause some noise, but

 

i have a tape/cd unit non-bose from my '97 max gle. im willing to sell it. what u want to pay for it? boodah.nayshun@gmail.com

 

I wish I could start a thread on this subject . I search for hours but unable to find a answer.....SPlash Guard / mud flaps will this effect handling in the rain.....I would image that they provent the rain from properly exits off the tire.......? Don't know if I should take them off for safety reasons

 

No effect. Use them without issue.

If rain performance is a concern, get a good tire and replace it *before* it wears down to the limit bars. The primary determinants of good rain performance are well-design tread and good deep grooves.

Dave