btw. since 95 the maxima has had a VQ, not VG. 3rd gens had the VG or VE. nissan kept using the VG in the trucks and other cars until pretty much 2001

the 2000/2001 have the VQ30DE-K in them. cams are slightly different, a few internal changes, the main difference is the plastic, variable intake manifold.

it is possible to swap the variable intake on to the regular VQ30DEs. look around in the all motor section for more info.

 

So....it feels like my engine is stumbling at an idle at WOT it's fine til i hit about 3500-4000...then it bogs down til 5000 n comes back to life..checked all injectors,coils cleaned out maf and tb and changed the knock sensor yesterday but my problem persists...PLEASE HELP ME....not throwin any codes i changed the fuel filter in october

 

Hi guys I am happy to be a part of a group that has the same intrest as I do. I have a 1998 maxima black on black 5 speed that I have made mods to and currently making mods to, but I have a problem My sunroof leaks and was told the track may be blocked so I took the car to a shop and the used a pressure hose and blow it out but it still leaks what can I do to fix my problem

 

Sorry but due to the rules of this board I need to postwhore to get my post up to 15 before I cant start a new thread. Kind of defeats the purpose of your anti postwhore philosophy here.

 

Actually, you need 15 USEFUL posts. And why do you need to start a new thread? This thread is where you need to post your question because odds are, it's been asked and answered before.

I would begin by replacing the weather stripping on the external 9roof) area. Mine used to leak once in a while, until I changed the stripping. Make sure it is OEM (Nissan). Try the dealer for some.


Sounds like a failing MAF. Mine did this for nearly 2 weeks before it threw a code. www.car-part.com has MAF's for very cheap.


You really need to spend some time in the All Motor forum, all the answers you seek are in there. It's more complicated than swapping ECU's and going by peak advertised peak #'s.




LCA'a are really easy to change, axles are a little more tricky, but for the most part can be done rather easily. Make sure and get an alignment when all is said and done. Set aside a Saturday afternoon, and my guss is that you'll be fine. A Haynes manual does help in this situation.

 

Oh wow. I just assumed it was a VG like in the 300zs. I've owned nothing but 240s since i was 16 and my KA was in 4 other vehicles I just always guessed it was the same way with the VG haha.

I didn't notice the N/A section until now. thanks I'll check that out.

 

Fine I'll ask my question here.

I have a 97 Maxima SE. All stock. Last week I jacked up the car to replace to rotors and brakes. Now I get a "pop" "clunk" sound from the front right tire are when I accelerate or slow down. Almost sounds like something in the suspension is loose or broken. I am on the original set of struts and springs with 118K miles.

I never had this problem before I jacked up the car and yes the wheel lugs are on straight and tight and the brakes and rotors are installed properly with the correct torque on the caliper bolts.

 

Typically that sound = strut bearing. But, I've also had that sound and decided to remove and reinstall the wheel, and it went away.

 

Well, since i have less than 15 posts ill write here too.

I have a 200sx with a VQ20DE (basically the same as a VQ30DE). I am using the original VQ harness and ECU taken from a running car. The only modifications to the harness is an adapter to connect it to the s13 engine room harness to get power.
As far a sensor go, i needed to make a bracket for the front crank sensor and fit the rear crank sensor.

The car wont even start without the rear sensor, and it wont start without the cam sensor, so those two are clearly giving out a proper signal to the ecu.

The actual problem that i have, the engine wont run for more than 5sec, and i need to turn off the ecu completely (basically turn the key to -off) after i can get it to start again. The starter turns even on the second start, but i have no injection/ignition at that point, i only get it after switching off.

When the engine runs, it runs very smoothly and wont sputter or anything, it also revs ok, but it just stalls like someone would cut the power completely.

I am thinking of the front crank sensor to be the fault because plugging it in or taking it off wont make any difference. Additionally, when my friend took it off and tapped a screwdrived to the sensor tip, the car tried to idle longer.

So i would like to know:
1.) Do you need to turn the power completely off before you can start the car again.
2.) What happens if you pull the front crank sensor off and start the car?
3.) Does anyone have an other suggestion that could be worth researching?

 

undoubtably someone has asked this question before but here goes. I want to change out my headunit in the near future. Can someone give a me a rundown of the best way to remove that center stack. I know how to get to the bottom bolts after taking the shift boot out (its a manual) but how do i remove the cigarrette ash thingy? i cant reach that bolt on the right with a normal screwdriver. I know i have to remove the vent on top but whats the best way to do it without scrathing the interior?

wiring harnesses? do they come with headunits?

 

If you got your headunit from crutchfield.com, it will come with a wiring harness. If you buy it elsewhere, they may charge extra for the wiring harness. It would be beneficial to buy a Haynes manual from Advanced Auto or some other store. They have really good step by step how-to's with pictures to help take out the center dash.

 

I have a Haynes manual and they have nothing about interior, i looked. I need help from someone who has already taken it out.

 

Basically I blew out my stock radiator and need to know who makes a good performace radiator for my 95 max SE. Thanks.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=318539
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=370827
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=355587

If I were you, and weren't boosted nor had any plans of 'extreme performance', , I'd just go with a stock OEM replacement.

 

Thanks, I was sort of feeling the same thing and especially when i saw the huge weight increase of the griffin..im just going w/ the stock replace.

 

Seems like the problems im experiencing are starting to get weirder all the time.

so, to sum it up in one sentence: "My injectors only fire for a few seconds after flipping the key to the ON position, regardless of when i start the engine".

If i start the car immediately after turning the ignition to On, it fires up, revs freely and everything, the just out of a sudden it cuts out the injector pulses.
I still get spark if i crank it for a second time, the fuel pump also turns on again when i try to start. When i turn the key to off and immediately try to start it again, it starts up the way it should but dies again.
So i need to cut power to the ecu in order to reset this state.

It is also NOT related to the time of the actual start, if i wait for lets say 10 seconds with the key in the ON position and then try to start the car, the injectors will not fire.
Its almost like theres a countdown for something, but im really lost because i dont know why this is happening.

The engine (vq20de) came from a -95 car. I have swapped the engine, ecu and engine harness to a 200sx s13 hatc (ca18det). The ecu gets the start signal to pin 20, and also gets power through connectors F37/E14 and F36/E13. Other than that, there have been no mods. The engine and everything is bone stock.

Could this be a security related issue?

Any input would be appreciated greatly. For example, would the ecu be smat enough to really insist on flipping the fan relays or something else? How does the -99 security system work, does it also cut injection but leaves spark and everything else working?

 

is Weapon R a good brand for a CAI?

 

I have 1. You lose a lot low end but it evens out in the high rpms so it's your choice i'm about to sell mine n go back to stock

 

So I need to change my KS. Is OEM really that much better than aftermarket? They certainly are more expensive. I apologize if this has been asked before. I have been all over this forum for the last couple days and haven't found anything.

 

keep the stock. its engineered and designed better than all CAI's.
the ram air is there for a reason

 

check ebay. they usually sell OEM KS for dirt cheap, under $100. don't ever go to the stealership

 

you need to have all three sensors (cam pos, crank pos, crank ref) hooked up and installed for the car to start and run. the ecu uses all three to determine where the motor is in its rotation.
look in the FSM it tells you how to test all of the sensors.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=348814

 

Can anybody direct me to where to find the Stillen supercharger kit for the 4th gen...its seem to become extinct or something

 

no longer produced. you'll have to buy a used kit, or buy mattys starter kit and piece the rest of it together. look around it the forced induction section for all the answers you'll need

 

http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...aysprune=&f=38

 

I took my 95 to a reliable mechanic and was told I need a new inhibitor switch. It's been a week since I've taken it in, since the dude has to order the part....is it still ok to drive for a few more days or will it suddenly break/go bad? Also, is this something that is absolutely needed?

 

Hello all!

Here goes my first newbie question. I have searched for an answer to this but cannot seem to find anything that matches exactly.

I have a 96 max and am experiencing a wheel wobble that seems to be coming from the passenger side front. The wobble is felt both through the steering wheel as well as through the general area up front. A minor shake occurs in the 20-30 mph range and then goes away... although I swear I can feel it ever so slightly upon hard acceleration at all speeds. The only other time it is felt is in cornering to the left and only when the gas is applied. It does not happen when cornering to the right or when no gas is applied... no matter how hard or at what speed.

Now, I have recently redone the springs and shocks all the way around. Tokico Illuminas and Eibach Pro. I did this myself and it is totally possible that I effed something up though I have of course checked and rechecked all bolts. All seems tight. I replaced both mounts and bearings. I also put on a set of newer Maxima 18 inch rims, 2006ish. The tires that came with are in need of replacement but swapping the new wheels from one side to the other has resulted in no effect to the issue at hand. Nothing feels loose when I yank on the wheel a bunch while the car is jacked up either, again all feels tight.

There are two maybes that I have come to. First, most of the bushings up front look bad, LCA, sway bar, and end link. I am in the process of acquiring all of these and will be installing them soon. Second, when I first installed the springs and struts it became evident that the main strut bolt on the side in question was not tight enough. Clunk, clunk, clunk, AND wobble. With the car jacked up I could physically move the strut up and down about 1/2 an inch. I could see this play on the engine bay side (top side) of the strut. I immediately took everything apart again and found that the top strut bolt was not tight enough and to make things worse the play had stripped the sh*t out of the bottom most threads. I went to the store, got a tap, and rethreaded. All seemed fine. The bolt went back on great and the threads felt good and tight. After the reinstall there has been no clunking and all feels tight when tugging on it with the car jacked up. I make mention of this issue only because I don't really know what I'm doing and because I think all is good here due to the lack of wobble in hard cornering when no gas is applied.

Does this have something to do with my novice workmanship or may this simply be a coincidental and unrelated issue?? Any help will be greatly appreciated!

 

Here's a real newbie question... I see pictures of some cars with what looks like a metal bar inside the engine compartment going from the top of one strut to the other. What's that all about? Am I missing it or is that some sort of modification?

 

I had this same problem. It sounds like the caliper is not tight as it should be. Thats what was wrong with mine. Try that first.

 

That is a strut bar. It is a suspension mod that provides extra strength between the strut towers. A strut bar is designed to reduce this strut tower flex by tying two parallel strut towers together. This transmits the load of each strut tower during cornering via tension and compression of the strut bar which shares the load between both towers and reduces chassis flex.

 

THE INHIBITOR SWITCH TELLS THE ECM THAT THE TRANSMISSION IS IN PARK OR NEUTRAL AND SAFE TO START THE MOTOR SOIT ISNT IN GEAR. NOT REPLACING THIS SWITCH COULD LEAVE YOU STRANDED. I WOULD RECOMMEND GETTING IT FIXED SOONER THAN LATER. HE COULD HAVE WENT TO THE DEALER AND GOT SWITCH. SO TO ANSWER YOUR QUESTION IT IS ABSOLUTELY NEEDED.

 

This is an AZ link it tells you how to take out your interior.

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/rep...00c152800766dc

 

I think i've read somewhere that the infinity i30 has a limited slip dif (vlsd??) while the maxima has an open dif. would it be worth the time to swap the i30 dif into my maxima?
thanks

 

Does anybody know if it is possible to put headrest monitors in the back of racing seats? Also I have a dvd player in my head unit and i want to know if i could multiplex three other tvs to it so when my 360 is hooked up to it, each players screen is shown on their relative tv? and does anyone know if it is possible to mount a plasma screen to the trunk lid of a 96 maxima? thanks alot.

 

anything is possible.

 

First off, it's InfinitI, ok.
Second, not ALL I30's came VLSD.
Third, what year is your car and what type of tranny do you have?

 

my most heart felt apologies..
ive got a 96 maxima with an automatic

 

No help??

 

Is there any reason why you would want a VLSD? the reason I say is because th money spent on the VLSD could be spent elsewhere for better gain, depending on your driving conditions, prerogatives, etc. Winter driving conditions? You will need to find a Canadian I30.

www.car-part.com

Did you get those 06 wheels mounted & BALANCED? Also, an alignment is needed after a strut replacement. Either one or both of those could be the cause. Get them done, report back.