Hey so... Me has question.

Ok, my aftermarket (Auidovox IIRC) stereo on my 95 died when I fried the fuseable link. I replaced it (link), and took a look at all the fuses under the hood and in the cab, but none of them are dead, but the stereo still doesn't work. Completely dead.

I know nothing in the audio department.

 

Did you get those 06 wheels mounted & BALANCED? Also, an alignment is needed after a strut replacement. Either one or both of those could be the cause. Get them done, report back.[/QUOTE]

Got an alignment done. Did not get the tires mounted and balanced but wouldn't the wobble move with the bad wheel? I have taken the front wheels and switched them from side to side to see if it would isolate a bad wheel thinking that if the right front wheel was bad and I moved it to the left front then the wobble would move with it. This is not the case the problem persists in the right front region only, no matter which wheel is in this position.

Maybe wobble is not the proper description. Feels like one or more of the lug nuts are loose. Kind of a scary lateral shimmy. I feel like maybe I read somewhere that a bogus rubber seat (the piece of the strut/shock assembly that the top of the spring rests in) could cause problems... any evidence to support this?

Thanks

 

I would check the rubber boots / bushings and bolts on the calipers, struts/towers, and the ball joints and tie rods. ALSO the sway bar links, and make SURE the axle shaft is ok and also the wheel bearings.

 

Hi guys, I'm looking to buy a 4th or 5th gen Maxima for my brother as a college and summer job car.


I went to check out the following car:
http://www.cars.com/go/search/...=true
1996 Nissan Maxima GXE auto
$4,390 OBO
60,880 miles


Took it for a quick test drive. Reg expired, so only around a couple blocks. Pulled well til 45 mph.


There's a high pitched whistling noise when it's started. Goes away when revving above 1250 rpm. Any idea what that could be or if that's a really bad sign?


Any other thoughts/advice appreciated.

 

i'd say break out a DMM and the wiring diag/pi- out of the radio check for both powers, check the ground.
just a start

 

N00b question:

Are all 95-99 Auto trannies interchangeable? I thought I read something about the 95-96 trannies being different (something about a synchro) but I'm not sure.

I just want to know for whenever my tranny goes out and I have to replace it.

 

Autos don;t have synchros, and yes, all 95 - 99 AT's are interchangeable.

If you were able to find a VLSD from a Canadian I30, then it may not be interchangeable (axles) but other than that, yes they are.

www.car-part.com shows a full listing of compatible trannys.

 

Ah, cool, thank you very much!

 

What lower dollar suspension set up (strut/shock and spring) combo has proven good on the 4th gen. Im looking at the Tokico HP and Illumina series...w/ either Tein S. Tech, Eibach pro kit, or H&R springs. Any suggestions?

 

i have a quick question my vehicle speed sensor is going out and i have a 5th gen trans on my 4th gen maxima. are they any different within years?

 

Which struts are you going with? HP's or Illuminas? Either way, stay away from S-Tech springs.

IMO, H&R would be my choice.

I have Eibachs(fairly stiff for me) and have heard from respectable members that S-Techs are trash.

 

hey to those who have bought ebay Short Rams, do they generally come with everything you need + instructions?

 

Im leaning toward the HP's b/c i have a bud that can hook me up big time on the HP's but i've heard great stuff about the illumina...which spring would be better for each strut...jic

 

Alright I have a couple of "im learning from the beginning" questions. What is the purpose of building an oil catch can and how?

I got a engine ground wiring kit with 6 wires for intake manifold, engine block, cylinder head, head lamp, transmission and alternator...are all these grounds necessary and also the adapter for the negative terminal doesn't allow for my stock battery cable to go back on...is that normal and if so what do I do with the stock negative battery cable.

Also...I have a universal adjustable fuel pressure regulator...that i got from a friend...how...when the time comes would i go about installing it. I know I'll need an off rail adapter but where do I get or make one?

 

Not needed IMO. Keeps the IM cleaner for those engines with excessive blow by. Do a search of it in the 5th gen forums. There are a couple of very useful How - To's.


Not in my opinion.
Pics?

Why do you need one of these?


eBay is very general. It depends on the seller. Aside from that, an intake is very straight forward to isntall, and shouldn;t require many parts. Heck, mos of us could make one with parts lying around @ home.

In general though, yes, they will include all parts, etc. or at least tehy should

Spend some time in here:
http://forums.maxima.org/forumdispla...aysprune=&f=68

 

So which of the six should i worry about grounding if any?

Im not sure how to upload pics

 

Hello everyone! I just got my first Maxima a little bit ago, a 99 SE and have been loving it until I had this problem. I've looked and looked for hours here and elsewhere and can't find what could be wrong.

I was at my friends place and left the lights on and the battery died. The first time I tried to start it with the booster cables on, it started fine, then after 2-3 seconds it just shut off. I tried starting it again and it just shut off. Every time after that, it wouldn't even start, just crank the engine (which it is still doing superbly). I've noticed that the security light is blinking or on when I try to start the car.

I've tried some of the recommended security reset things like turning the key to on for 5s then back to off then back to on for 5s etc. I've tried locking all the doors with the key, then locking/unlocking the passenger door 3 times then getting in through the passenger door and starting the car. I've tried removing one of the batteries leads to cut the battery. Each time the engine whirls but won't start.

What can I do? What is the problem? I don't want to tow it unless I have to and I need to use it asap.

 

you'll need to have the car towed to the nissan dealer so they can reprogram the immobilizer

 

run one to the front of the intake mani. where those two sets of ground wires go to it.
one to the body.
those are the main ones i would do and since you have enough you might as well run one to the alt. starter/trans housing.

 

I have S-Techs and like them

 

Well that's you.

There is zero travel with S-Techs, period.

He shouldn't have asked an opinionated question in the first place. that's my opinion, he asked the board as a whole, I gave my opinion.

None, if you need a grounding kit for optimal performance, then something else must be wrong with your car. IMO, if you keep your OEM grounds clean, you should be fine.

 

I have already poured much money into fixing my car and the problems continue.
The two biggest are that when i step on the gas hard it hesitates hugely and feels like it is going to die but doesn't.
The other problem that has returned is when sitting still and I shift from say park to drive and to reverse with my foot on the brake it shifts really hard.
What I have already paid to have done(please don't laugh, I tried reading through all the options here but they were so numerous I ended up listening to the dealer).
First the shifting hard problem while sitting still and it was also shifting hard while driving: The first shop replaced my wheel bearings, not a cheap repair but seemed to have helped for awhile.
Next a miss showed up and kept getting worse until the check engine light came on. Had this same type of thing before. Dealer replaced one ignition coil and fixed it. This time they said it was a knock sensor code, charged me to install something tipped spark plugs, fuel filter and returned the car with the same miss barely running with what seemed like the idle turned way up to barely keep it running. Needless to say I gave up on that shop.
Next available choice near my work was the dealer. So two radiator hoses, a CV boot and SIX coil replacements later I get the car back.
It doesn't have the miss anymore and the idle is still turned up higher than it used to be. But now the rough shift and the crazy hesitation when I punch it. I have already spent so much money. I guess I should return it to the dealer..it has been about 3 weeks since the repairs..I am concerned they will ream me again. The car runs but it doesn't feel right and I am wonder what might still be going on. I know I said alot and I hope I explained it correctly. The guy at the first shop told me to get a new car but please..I only have 90,000 miles??

 

What are the trouble codes you're getting?

 

Page 5 Cripes...

 

****NEW QUESTION****

I have a 1999 Nissan Maxima with 159000 miles on it.

The car was recently taken on a 600 mile round trip. When the car came back, it was sounding a little more "deeper" than usual- sounds more "meaner" for lack of a better word. I am sorry I cannot really describe it more! The difference in the sound is subtle, but I have been driving the vehicle since 1 year, so even a subtle change in sound is noticeable to me. If I sold the car now to someone, they won't find anything wrong with the sound.

Essentially, the exhaust sounds louder, but in a lower pitch (as if it's got more bass).

The car works great- just the way it used to before the sound changed. I recently had the alternator belt tightened but the mechanic didn't really say anything bad about the engine (not that I asked him to look over it).

Pardon me, I am a total idiot when it comes to the mechanics in a car, so I was wondering if you folks could tell me if there may be something to be concerned about, and if I should pay 100 bucks to get it checked out.

I do understand that I haven't given a lot for you all to work with, so please let me know if you need more info.

Thanks a lot for your help!

 

You may have an exhaust leak. Visually inspect all piping from header to muffler.

 

I did a quick visual inspection, but nothing seemed abnormal. It could be possible that the puncture/damage is very small, and needs to be thoroughly checked to get an idea.

Any other possible reasons as to why I may be having the problem- if it is not the exhaust?

Thanks for your help!

 

I have a 99 Max SE, MIL just came on. Getting '0107' and '0313' flash codes from MIL, service manual does not have a description for these. Any help would be appreciated.

 

1999 SE manual with 88k miles; the buyer was asking for 4500, we agreed for 4000.

The bad:
-knock sensor
-AC needs recharging

The probably bad:
-car hasn't been driven since Dec 2007 (when it failed the emission test, and also when the registration expired) and the brakes make a strange noise when applied - pads?

The possibly bad:
-same reason as above - rotors?
-there's a growl from 1000rpm up until 1700rpm which disappears and appears again at 4000rpm - exhaust? The guy told me that the previous owner had an aftermarket exhaust installed which fell/gone bad and was replaced by the dealership with an OEM one. When I looked under the car, the final pipe (between the catalytic converter and the muffler) was kind of rusty - not bad but not shiny either. The growl looks like coming from under the back of the car.

The good:
-everything else

I talked to the guy and we agreed to meet Sunday to pick the car. I told him that in principle I want it but I'm still looking for opinions (pro/con) .

Any help would be highly appreciated, thanks in advance!

 

you probably have rusted rotors, that would explain the brake noise.
if it failed the emission test, you NEED to know why.

 

I know why ... the knock sensor!
At first it was strange because there was no check engine light on but then I read on the forum that it shouldn't be just because of that sensor.

Also, about the rotors ... the front ones had only a small band that was shiny, the rest was rusted. The rear ones ... they didn't look rusted but ... black and rough. I noticed the same thing (black, rough) on my (late) G20 but there, the noise shows up only when I apply the hand brake ...

 

I thought this was exactly the place for random a$$ questions....sorry thanks I'll try to figure out what this means:
"This thread is for the new members so that they are able to post a LEGITIMATE question. It can be ANYTHING that is 4th generation related and NOT covered in the existing sticky threads. If we think it is important, we will either answer or make it into its own thread. If not, I will delete it.

This is only for LEGIT 4th Gen questions that may be specific to one user."

 

Hey guys, thanks in advance for your help...as I have NO CLUE about cars.

(95 Max SE) I have had some recent starting...trouble? I go to start the car, but there is NO sound whatsoever. So I can only start the car while the car is in neutral. Is this a sign of something bad to come? Is something about to give? The car is in great shape, no other recent problems (besides an inhibitor switch a few wks ago).

 

That could either be the ignition switch, or the starter. I would bet starter. Easy to change out and fairly cheap. (120$).

 

reset the computer, which i'm assuming you already did, wait to see if the CEL comes back on and recheck the codes

 

if you can only start the car in neutral i would assume park/neutral switch

 

It better not be the starter, I got mine repaired last summer, was NOT cheap...$400! I'll call the garage about the ignition/neutral switch. I should change my original post...it does start in park, but sometimes it will only start in neutral, just not ALL the time. If it were the neutral switch, would the 'check engine light' not come on?

 

You got raped, i paid 12- for a lifetime warranty and it takes me 15 minutes to change.

 

Well, I called around and the price was all the same. I guess I have to pay since I don't have a clue...

 

Do you have any desire whatsoever to DIY?