Years ago, it was fairly popular to red/clear them yourself (due to the higher cost of the tailights), but they're so cheap nowadays, most people just buy them from ebay instead of doing the work themselves. Also see the write-up at vqpower.com in the 'How to' section if you're interested in doing it yourself.

 

OK newbie question here.

Is it common or at least heard of for the waterpump to fail to the point that coolant leaks into the chain area polluting the oil?The engine still runs fine with no miss all though I haven't let it run more than about a minute to load it on the trailer and back off again.

 

Ok, pulled it apart and the bearing of the waterpump was shot. It had been grinding itself it pieces. It was dumping coolant directly into the timing chain housing. Swapped the pump out/changed the oil and refilled the coolant. Gonna put a few hundred miles on the engine and change the oil again to get rid of the residual.

I guess I answered my own question.

Yes catastrophic failure of the water pump can cause coolant to fill the crank case.

 

^ you are the man

 

I just got my beige 97 Max today. Really good shape and runs great. The one problem I am debating is that the Max had gold emblems on the back which are now fading and look horrible. I know I can buy a new chrome Nissan logo but I can't seem to find a new chrome MAXIMA logo to put on the back of the car. I am still undecided if I want to totally debadge it and ride without badges or if I want to try to find new badges to go on the back of the car.

 

i have the complete silver set from the trunk. $15 shipped if you want it.

 

nothing against allensteiner21 offer but i would just debadge it, looks alot better..

 

I have a question....when Im driving, no matter what speed, I have an audible groaning sound whenever the wheel is turned to the left, inlcuding when It's barely left to drive straight. When I turn the wheel to the right, the sound goes away. What could this be?

 

Possibles wheel bearing or strut bearing. Is it a hum or a 'crunkle'?

 

Who is running 18" factory 6th gens on their 4th gen? Are you running spacers or just straight up? Are you running 235/40/18's or a different size.

I have a chance to pick up a new take off set for$100.00 without tire.They have been sitting in the boxes since 06.

 

The only reason you would need spacers is if you wanted the front and rear wheels to be flush. I would say that 235-40's are the best tire package for those wheels.

I would like to go w/ 245-40, but the wheels are too thin, IMO.

 

Do you have pics of yours?

 

They're not those wheels, but I have a few pics of a few different wheels on my 5th gen. My 4th gen doesn't have spacers because it doesn't see as much drive time as my 5th gen.

 

I'd have to go with the hum on that one....not sure what a crunkle sounds like, but I'd still say more of a hum. Sounds drivers side....

 

Hey I was looking at these rims....would they fit a 4th gen? http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/pts/787834177.html

 

Well, you need to know the bolt pattern and the offset to answer that. The guy didn't include that in the add. I would send him an e-mail and ask.

 

Hum I think. I can kinda feel it in the pedal and floor when it does it too

If its a wheel bearing, is there a right up to do it yourself? If I bought a new hub assembly, that would also fix the problem, right? (On my Jeep the bearing was permanently pressed in the hub)

 

What bolt pattern and offset do I need?

 

a lot of these noobs don't even know what headlight fluid is

 

 

Back to page 1 for the n00bs....

 

noob

 

The bolt pattern is 5 X 114.3mm
Offset between 40-45mm

You will find this sticky helpful:
http://forums.maxima.org/tires-wheel...read-look.html

 

I am having an issue with my right rear signal light. I changed out the taillights with smoked red/clears. Now when I installed the right light the signal is now not working for some reason. Its not the bulb or the connector that the bulb is connected to because i took out the left signal light and put it on the right just to see if that was the problem and it didint work either. What is the course of action to try to figure out what the problem is with the right signal.

 

Hey all,
the rear right speaker of my Maxima seems to have a loose connection- Everytime I hit a bump, the audio either comes on, or goes out (all speakers). I was able to isolate the problem to the rear right speaker. The blue wire ("-" terminal I presume) seems to be the issue- If I hold it tight enough, the audio plays, but once I let go, the audio goes out as well.

The wire does seem to be firmly attached, and I have checked. But despite that, the problem keeps occurring. Any ideas on what to do? Also, should the audio from all speakers be out if only the rear right has a problem?

I know this questions should've been in "Audio and Electronics" section, but my n00biness doesn't allow me to post there.

Thanks a lot.

EDIT: Im currently on a road trip, and my trunk is filled to the brim with junk- I can barely fit in my one hand and fiddle around with the wires.

 

I am about to get a engine tune up done does anybody know if it is necessary to change the ENGINE COILS???

PLEASE HELP!!

 

Unless they're malfunctioning, NO, leave them alone.

 

So i didn't see a thread like this in the I30 forum so i figured that i would just put it here. I was replacing my drivers side ebrake cable and snapped the post the holds the cable in place up by the equalizer. Is there any thing that i can do to replace it because i am assuming that i need it there.
JP

 

i have a question. i've been searching and searching for some oem/aftermarket fog lights for my 96 ' maxima and cant find them anywhere. so anyone know where i could buy some?

 

junkyard, ebay or 4th gen classifieds will be the cheapest.

 

i've already tried ebay i guess i got the junk yards and the classifieds left to look threw

thanks

 

junk yard has them for $45 a peice

 

Hello folks,

well today I just bumped my Maxima into another car, at about 4-5mph. The car seems to be fine mechanically- still drives just the way it used to. But the front body is a little damaged. The bumper is fine, but I cannot open the hood. I pull the hood release lever under the steering, and then when I lift the latch under the hood, nothing happens. It seems the hood is stuck somewhere.

Can anyone give any ideas on how to get the hood open so that I can check to make sure nothing else is damaged? I do not notice any coolant leaking, and the vehicle doesn't seem to overheat.

EDIT: I just put the pictures in. How bad do you guys think it is?

 

does anyone know if putting the 3.5 6speed tranny in my 97 is possible? if not how hard is the whole 3.5 6speed motor and tranny swap?

 

Many people have done the 3.5 motor swap but keep the 5 spd. I think only a couple people have done the 6spd swap. The 6spd is alot harder to swap in a 4thgen since the 6spd is cable shifted where the 5spd is rod shifted.

Anything is possible but search and read up before getting into it.

 

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/infusions/...article_id=130 i finally found the how-to for the swap

 

now for my next question, how hard is it to put the 95-96 grille in my 97? does it even come close to fitting in?

 

i think you'll need a 95 bumper or there's gonna be gaps.

 

95 max, the rear weather stripping on the back windshield is coming up in the corners any suggestions on how to fix this, tried to tuck it back in but it doesn't stay.

 

Better pictures:





Also, I just got an estimate from a body shop- they want ~1100 bucks for the entire job:
Grille assembly: 100
Headlamp assembly: 210
Hood: 225

Labor: 444.

Do you folks think it is a reasonable cost?