Crack open an FSM and have at it.

www.vq35de.com/ESM


IMO, you should be spending your time/efforts/mind on something else, a little more useful.

 

 

Hello,

Last weekend I changed out my valve cover seals on my 97 SE due to excessive oil in the spark plug tubes (and I failed inspection due to misfire). As you know, the IM collector needs to be removed to complete this. After everything was put back together, everything seemed ok. However, the next day I started experiencing a high idle (no codes). The car idles around 1100 rpm on warmup and reaches around 2500 rpm after driving in city traffic.

I have determined that there is a minor leak at the tb gasket (spraying tb cleaner outside the seal), however, i cannot believe that it can cause such a severe air leak to raise the idle to that level. One strange observation I noticed was that unplugging the tps did NOT have any affect on the idle. I also unplugged the MAF with minimal effect. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

 

Check to make sure everything was torqued to spec, check for any vacuum leaks, EGR put back on correctly, did you use the same or a new gasket on the IACV, it is tightened to spec...

 

Thanks, thats what it was.

 

 

Post *****....

 

Every time I drop into the 4th gen forum, I find 2 things.

1.) Page 1 is littered with questions, EVERYWHERE.
2.) This thread (noobie thread) is typically found on page 4.

 

Oh I know exactly what you were doing, I just had an urge to call you a post *****....

 

Ok so I have a 96 maxima and I'm changing my Valve cover gaskets this weekend. It's one of my bigger deal diy projects so far (I'm a total noob, but not a moron). In order to get at the rear valve cover I have to remove the plenum and other things that are in the way. I've wanted to do a DE/DE-K hybrid and now would seem like a good time since I have everyth9ing out already. What I want to know is this:

1. Is the Lower intake manifold from the VQ30 DE-K a direct bolt in to a 4th gen with no other mods?

2. Is that where the extra hp comes from for the 5th gen?

3. What other DE-K parts do you guys reccomend?

thank you in advance for any help I really appreciate it

 

http://forums.maxima.org/oldthread.php?t=498379

 

I have to say, making it impossible for a new person to search on your forums is ridiculous.. You make them make X amounts of posts, or a 'donation" to search... Good god. Your forum is a joke. You ***** about all the newb questions, Ignoring most of them, yet if we could search; most of us wouldnt be wasting your time. Smooth guys... real smooth.

 

wow, well how are the condition of his tires?

 

lol aprils fools!.....oh wait..

 

^^

 

???

search is free.

there are two ways to search, both in the menu at the top of your screen.


and the 15 post rule is to keep advertising spammers out of the forums - and it works well.

 

Ok, I am looking to buy a 98 Maxima with 260Kms. Car drives very nice and looks decent too.

What are the most common problems with this type of car? What should I look for first?

Thanks.

 

suspension (tires, springs, struts/shocks, brakes, rotors, bearings, ball joints, control arms, etc) exaust, and test drive it on the highway. IMO

 

how much are they asking?

 

$3700 cad on the road.

 

1. yes and no, the manifold drops right in, but you need to use the 5th gens fuel lines and injectors

2. no, it comes from the upper(vias)

3. upper ,lower, egr block off ,tb,and iacv(some people will dissagree)

 

oh and here is a good site
http://www.geocities.com/tatankoz/

 

HI I have a 97 max se and i'm changing my exhaust manifold. I looked through all the related materials I could find on the boards including the FAQs and How toos, and couldn't find anything. I have the front bank done but i'm having trouble with the bottom three bolts of the back bank. I have lowered the subframe to get a better angle and all i'm doing is stripping the nut. I am also having some trouble getting a wrench on the left most bolt. Any tips would help cuase my next step is to just saw through the exhaust manifold with a sawsall, and that would be very messy and time consuming. Any help by means of addidtional things I could or should drop to get a better angle and possibly free up more space would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

Whats up guys/gals i had a newbie question: I have no alarm for my 95 Maxima GXE. I currently saw they have a pretty cool thing its called the Master Lock Starter Sentry. http://www.mastersentryseries.com/starter/buy-now.shtml. Only thing is it shows up to a 96 and it says an 810/Maxima Sedan. Can anyone clarify a) is it for a Maxima beacuse its says 810? and b) will it work on a 95? Thankyou in advance guys/gals. Peace!

 

Service Engine Soon Light still on problem code 1320

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I have a problem with my 99 Max. I have a 1320 code and I have changed all of the spark plugs with NGK platinums, I changed all of the ignition coils since I wasn't getting a code for a specific one. I had the crank shaft postion sensor replaced, and I even had the knock sensor replaced. After doing all of this the light stayed on and it read the same code. After all that I had all of the ignition coil harness tested and cleaned, and I still have the same problem. I had the wiring checked out and the only unusal thing that was found was a purple wire coming from the stereo head unit to the tach, which the mechanic said shouldn't affect the check engine light. Does anybody know of anything else I could possibly do?

 

Reset the light and if it comes back, get the code.^^

 

^^^ I have reset it and every time it's the same code 1320 . When it is reset it comes back within seconds

 

I chose to change my valve cover gaskets myself and save $200. As you guys probably know you have to remove all kinds of stuff to get at the rear one, plenum, throttle body, air box etc. I got the gaskets changed (and hopefully fixed...I relatively new at this) and everything reassembled. When I started the car I got a wicked hissing noise, the car revved up a couple of times and then stalled. Also the breather hose between the front and rear gaskets isn't moving any air. I'm assuming it's a vaccum leak and the reason that the breather hose isn't working is that the air's just going straight to the leak. I triple checked every hose I could find without taking anything back off and didn't find anything wrong. It almost sounds like it's under the plenum which is odd since there's only one hose I could find in that area and it's the breather hose.

I was following the haynes guide and it didn't offer any wisdom on this problem. I'm new to engines, I can find my way around pretty well but this has me stumped.

Any suggestions? Advice? thanks in advance for any help

 

i've searched and couldn't find if anybody has tried the tokico d-spec coilovers. sick of going cross-eyed. any help or opinions would be appreciated.

 

You have a 99, so I'd say coil packs are or should be on order.

 

Noob

 

. The code calls out primary ignition signal, if that helps.

 

i have a 1997 nissan maxima i just bought aftermarket hid fog light bulbs (h3) they dont fit help some one did anyone have to modify thier lamp to put them in at all mine are to long or something

 

I just got through doing the egr tube cleaning. The step by step instructions helped , but I think one more step should have been added(or maybe I missed this part).
When I pulled the tube, it was plugged solid on the end that bolts to the back side of the intake manifold(?)
The insructions dont mention looking at or cleaning where the tube bolts up.
With the throttle body off and the tube off, I sprayed throttle body cleaner up in (I'm guessing its the intake manifold) , let sit and then ran a rod through the port on the bottom of the manifold out the back where the tube mounted.
Without doing this, cleaning the tube would have been useless.

 

More comments if I may.
We also did brakes and strut/strut mount change.
A sticky for rear brake change would be helpful. We ran into problems getting the rear calipers in. After doing a search we found that they had to be turned while pushing.
With this info we had no problem. We just had to be careful not to tear the boot on the caliper while turning it.

 

thanks for the headsup.
i was gonna hit the EGR this upcoming saturday.

 

Strut change was a piece of cake with one exception.
We ordered the parts online and the strut mounts sent did not resemble what we were replacing. I dont know if someone smarter than me could have figured out how to make them work, but I couldnt.
We ran to the parts store and bought off the shelf strut mounts(for twice the online price) that were exactly what we were taking off(minus the wear) and slapped them in place. Piece of cake.
I must say thank you to all that add info to this site.
Having this info made our "fix Justins car days" a great success.

 

.

You are welcome. Make sure to get a piece of cable to put in a drill motor to clean the inside of the tube. You can use a longer piece to clean the above mentioned port on the inside of the intake manifold. Get a couple of cans of throttle body cleaner so you wont run out. You will need it.
I actually bead blasted the inside of my tube after using the cable method of cleaning it , but thats probably overkill.
I just happend to have a bead blaster handy , so why not.

 

Has anyone else noticed a significant difference in power after cleaning the egr tube?
I have not driven this car much, but it seems to me that it is MUCH quicker than it was before the cleaning.

 

after my 12th post, do I get to post in areas that are read?