NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
05-29-2010 | 04:49 PM
#5881
Why apologise if you're going to be rude? I can be just as tactful in return. Apparently your ignorance goes further than I thought. If you had read what I said, you would know that I *had* my codes read and got ONLY the P1320. My coils were replaced. The CEL remains on but there are no new codes to report (I did leave that part out, my mistake.)
How about you find somewhere else to troll, punk.
How about you find somewhere else to troll, punk.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ere-first.html
start here, follow the instructions carefully, then give it a week of road test. whats the milage on the car? any mods? any info will be helpful.
05-29-2010 | 06:04 PM
#5883
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 228
From: arcata ca
man i apologize for any sort of insult.
Theres just no way you can diagnose this problem without an obd2 code reader. You obviously dont have one to be asking, why is my mil light on but i dont have an error code?
Well what does your obd2 reader say, does it say mil status on, error codes none?
No.... it never says that. You had a friend read a code, autozone oil stop whatever.
A repair was made and the codes were not reset, or the code came back.
The long and short of it is you need your own code reader you can look all over the internet you dont have the necessary information to figure it out til you can reset codes and then drive.
Its totally possible that your ignition is fine but the computer is still running on the old info because it was never reset? I suppose wont know til you get that obd2 reader.
With all the respect in the world. What do I know this is my fifth nissan. I worked for 3 years on a used car lot diagnosing new purchases. Seriously. But dont take anyones word for a thing enable yourself and do it. Youre a smart guy you can do it.
Theres just no way you can diagnose this problem without an obd2 code reader. You obviously dont have one to be asking, why is my mil light on but i dont have an error code?
Well what does your obd2 reader say, does it say mil status on, error codes none?
No.... it never says that. You had a friend read a code, autozone oil stop whatever.
A repair was made and the codes were not reset, or the code came back.
The long and short of it is you need your own code reader you can look all over the internet you dont have the necessary information to figure it out til you can reset codes and then drive.
Its totally possible that your ignition is fine but the computer is still running on the old info because it was never reset? I suppose wont know til you get that obd2 reader.
With all the respect in the world. What do I know this is my fifth nissan. I worked for 3 years on a used car lot diagnosing new purchases. Seriously. But dont take anyones word for a thing enable yourself and do it. Youre a smart guy you can do it.
05-29-2010 | 06:33 PM
#5884
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 61
From: Austin, TX
It's not the insult, its the fact that I have been reading Maxima.org for almost 4 months now. I have posted a few times after trying some of the stuff in the sticky threads (cleaning, sensor replacements, coil packs, etc) and the simple matter is this yay-hoo and yourself asked about info I put in the post that should be pertinent to what I asked and yet here I am being asked to include that info again. I'm just not willing to trust the opinions of people who won't even fully read what I said. How can you make a guess or diagnosis accurately if you can't be trusted to read into what was asked? Its nothing personal. I just judge a tree by the fruit it bears.
Later dudes.
Later dudes.
05-29-2010 | 08:03 PM
#5885
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 228
From: arcata ca
um thats cool., im not giving you even one bit of advice til you reset the codes and drive it and tell me what comes up. Cause theres nothing that can be told. I dont need to read anything else til i read that. I dont want to even read about how youre trying to fix your car without owning an obd2 reader.
How about.... find a obd2 reader and buy it, reset the codes and see what comes up
Search the entire internet for someone who tells you not to do that and come back here and educate me.
Where are we miscommunicating? You have an obd2 reader? NO! right? Youll need one.
theres nothing any yahoo can figure out about the information you supplied ( for four months) without hooking the car to an obd2 reader
heres GOLD
http://carpdf.net/1997-infiniti-130-...ice-manual.htm
download this manual its shop manual
Look under engine control and look at the error code. Entire flow chart for diagnosing the error( you will need an obd2 reader and a few other tools probably an ohm meter)
shows the exact steps a factory nissan mechanic goes through to diagnose in a flow chart. You can see which you already did and which you didnt. Youll fix that thing I guarantee it.
This code has a tsm so its indeed a part that wasnt made too well. Tons of owners would have experience with it I dont doubt that but it wont necessarily be as helpfull as hooking the thing up in person and doing it! Youve got to do it and i believe in you. OBD2 reader, multimeter, shop manual. THATS IT YOURE READY. FIX THAT THING and then come back and call me an idiot.
Im just an idiot I dont know a thing about diagnosing cars with electrical troubles. Like my i30 i got for 50$ because it wouldnt start.
once you own one, youll be frikken car superman kymera
after a short learning curve youll have half of these questions answered yourself. And if you need help itll be something someone can answer without asking what does the reader say. reset it and then what does it say?
Im just a straight idiot whos looking at the nissan factory service manual for you. Wtf would I know? Nothing I told you has any bearing but kissassmaxima with 2000 forum posts hes got your back ( for four months)
according to the nissan factory service manual there is no diagnosis that doesnt include an obd 2 reader. Theres no step that says ask ur maxima forum homies what to do. So dont. Follow the entire factory service diagnosis and then come back to a maxima forum if theres some step you need help doing. I dont care what anyone says from there thats how you fix your problem.
The only ancient chinese secrets youre gonna get from owners is, easier ways to remove things... connections on where to get the parts easier.
Follow the shop manual directions exactly.
How about.... find a obd2 reader and buy it, reset the codes and see what comes up
Search the entire internet for someone who tells you not to do that and come back here and educate me.
Where are we miscommunicating? You have an obd2 reader? NO! right? Youll need one.
theres nothing any yahoo can figure out about the information you supplied ( for four months) without hooking the car to an obd2 reader
heres GOLD
http://carpdf.net/1997-infiniti-130-...ice-manual.htm
download this manual its shop manual
Look under engine control and look at the error code. Entire flow chart for diagnosing the error( you will need an obd2 reader and a few other tools probably an ohm meter)
shows the exact steps a factory nissan mechanic goes through to diagnose in a flow chart. You can see which you already did and which you didnt. Youll fix that thing I guarantee it.
This code has a tsm so its indeed a part that wasnt made too well. Tons of owners would have experience with it I dont doubt that but it wont necessarily be as helpfull as hooking the thing up in person and doing it! Youve got to do it and i believe in you. OBD2 reader, multimeter, shop manual. THATS IT YOURE READY. FIX THAT THING and then come back and call me an idiot.
Im just an idiot I dont know a thing about diagnosing cars with electrical troubles. Like my i30 i got for 50$ because it wouldnt start.
once you own one, youll be frikken car superman kymera
after a short learning curve youll have half of these questions answered yourself. And if you need help itll be something someone can answer without asking what does the reader say. reset it and then what does it say?
Im just a straight idiot whos looking at the nissan factory service manual for you. Wtf would I know? Nothing I told you has any bearing but kissassmaxima with 2000 forum posts hes got your back ( for four months)
according to the nissan factory service manual there is no diagnosis that doesnt include an obd 2 reader. Theres no step that says ask ur maxima forum homies what to do. So dont. Follow the entire factory service diagnosis and then come back to a maxima forum if theres some step you need help doing. I dont care what anyone says from there thats how you fix your problem.
The only ancient chinese secrets youre gonna get from owners is, easier ways to remove things... connections on where to get the parts easier.
Follow the shop manual directions exactly.
Last edited by stamar; 05-29-2010 at 08:47 PM.
05-30-2010 | 12:49 AM
#5887
Hey guys I wanted to ask this but I didn't feel like posting a new thread.
I recently bought a keyless entry fob but it wouldn't work with my car. I checked the FCC code on the back of the remote and it didnt match the module in my trunk. The remotes code was A269ZJA073 and my module says A269ZUA079. I've been looking on Ebay for another remote and I find remotes that match the code letter for letter with the exception of the last digit. My question being is does it have to match digit for digit? Or can I use one that ends in an 8 as opposed to a 9?
I recently bought a keyless entry fob but it wouldn't work with my car. I checked the FCC code on the back of the remote and it didnt match the module in my trunk. The remotes code was A269ZJA073 and my module says A269ZUA079. I've been looking on Ebay for another remote and I find remotes that match the code letter for letter with the exception of the last digit. My question being is does it have to match digit for digit? Or can I use one that ends in an 8 as opposed to a 9?
05-30-2010 | 09:40 AM
#5888
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2
AC won't shut off once it is turned on?
Hello, Newbie Here.
When I turn on my AC to my 98 Maxima, it does not turn off. Even after I have turned the switch to off, or tried various tricks like turning the AC button on with the defroster button, and so forth, it won't turn off. Has anyone had this problem? It has been like this for years, but I've been a little lazy in getting it checked out. I thought perhaps I was doing something wrong? I get great gas mileage with my car, but when this AC problem comes about, it just drains my gas.
Thank you for helping.
KP
When I turn on my AC to my 98 Maxima, it does not turn off. Even after I have turned the switch to off, or tried various tricks like turning the AC button on with the defroster button, and so forth, it won't turn off. Has anyone had this problem? It has been like this for years, but I've been a little lazy in getting it checked out. I thought perhaps I was doing something wrong? I get great gas mileage with my car, but when this AC problem comes about, it just drains my gas.
Thank you for helping.
KP
05-30-2010 | 10:46 AM
#5889
Senior Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 228
From: arcata ca
Hey guys I wanted to ask this but I didn't feel like posting a new thread.
I recently bought a keyless entry fob but it wouldn't work with my car. I checked the FCC code on the back of the remote and it didnt match the module in my trunk. The remotes code was A269ZJA073 and my module says A269ZUA079. I've been looking on Ebay for another remote and I find remotes that match the code letter for letter with the exception of the last digit. My question being is does it have to match digit for digit? Or can I use one that ends in an 8 as opposed to a 9?
I recently bought a keyless entry fob but it wouldn't work with my car. I checked the FCC code on the back of the remote and it didnt match the module in my trunk. The remotes code was A269ZJA073 and my module says A269ZUA079. I've been looking on Ebay for another remote and I find remotes that match the code letter for letter with the exception of the last digit. My question being is does it have to match digit for digit? Or can I use one that ends in an 8 as opposed to a 9?
05-30-2010 | 03:20 PM
#5890
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 221
From: Canada
Hello, Newbie Here.
When I turn on my AC to my 98 Maxima, it does not turn off. Even after I have turned the switch to off, or tried various tricks like turning the AC button on with the defroster button, and so forth, it won't turn off. Has anyone had this problem? It has been like this for years, but I've been a little lazy in getting it checked out. I thought perhaps I was doing something wrong? I get great gas mileage with my car, but when this AC problem comes about, it just drains my gas.
Thank you for helping.
KP
When I turn on my AC to my 98 Maxima, it does not turn off. Even after I have turned the switch to off, or tried various tricks like turning the AC button on with the defroster button, and so forth, it won't turn off. Has anyone had this problem? It has been like this for years, but I've been a little lazy in getting it checked out. I thought perhaps I was doing something wrong? I get great gas mileage with my car, but when this AC problem comes about, it just drains my gas.
Thank you for helping.
KP
05-30-2010 | 03:22 PM
#5891
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 221
From: Canada
have you seen the link in the 4th gen section?
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ere-first.html
start here, follow the instructions carefully, then give it a week of road test. whats the milage on the car? any mods? any info will be helpful.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ere-first.html
start here, follow the instructions carefully, then give it a week of road test. whats the milage on the car? any mods? any info will be helpful.
05-30-2010 | 09:39 PM
#5892
Hey guys I wanted to ask this but I didn't feel like posting a new thread.
I recently bought a keyless entry fob but it wouldn't work with my car. I checked the FCC code on the back of the remote and it didnt match the module in my trunk. The remotes code was A269ZJA073 and my module says A269ZUA079. I've been looking on Ebay for another remote and I find remotes that match the code letter for letter with the exception of the last digit. My question being is does it have to match digit for digit? Or can I use one that ends in an 8 as opposed to a 9?
I recently bought a keyless entry fob but it wouldn't work with my car. I checked the FCC code on the back of the remote and it didnt match the module in my trunk. The remotes code was A269ZJA073 and my module says A269ZUA079. I've been looking on Ebay for another remote and I find remotes that match the code letter for letter with the exception of the last digit. My question being is does it have to match digit for digit? Or can I use one that ends in an 8 as opposed to a 9?
05-30-2010 | 11:40 PM
#5893
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2
Yes, it says on until I turn off the car. It only does that when I turn it on: it doesn't turn on itself. I could never figure out why it does that.
05-31-2010 | 03:20 AM
#5894
05-31-2010 | 06:33 AM
#5895
hows it goin everyone, i have a similar problem. cant get my car to PROGRAM mode. i tried the instructions i got with the remote countless times and nothing. can anyone help PM me or shoot me an email zunigadilated@aol.com
05-31-2010 | 09:15 AM
#5896
hows it goin everyone, i have a similar problem. cant get my car to PROGRAM mode. i tried the instructions i got with the remote countless times and nothing. can anyone help PM me or shoot me an email zunigadilated@aol.com
Is your alarm arming itself (security light on)?
Are all of your doors locking?
If you answered no to any of the above your car will NOT enter programming mode.
I will soon make a how to video on programming remotes.
06-01-2010 | 04:34 AM
#5897
Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 270
From: Thomasville, GA
new power steering issue
I had a reman'd power steering put on the car in the last few months, because the old one was shot.
The shop tried to give the car an alignment.
After the first, the steering wheel wasn't centered, turned just a little to the right. The shop I took it to had another shop align the car, since there alignment machine was done.
So I had them realign it again. Same issue. The other shop said if he could get another shop to align this car, he'd pay for it.
Well, I waited til the shop I took the car to, had there machine working. They aligned it, and could not get the steering wheel straight. He told me when he kept the wheel dead straight, the numbers on the machine were way off. So when the numbers on the alignment machine matched 'perfectly', the steering wheel is turned slightly to the right.
Well, the car pulls to the right, which anyone could have guessed, so this car isn't aligned.
Now, I don't remember the car having this issue before the power steering rack was replaced, but I could be wrong.
Does anyone have a clue, as to why this car can't be aligned properly?
Note: I don't believe it has ever been wrecked. And before the re-alignment, I had this shop put on some new lower ball joints(Moog) & Moog rack bushings, at the same time they put the rack on.
The shop tried to give the car an alignment.
After the first, the steering wheel wasn't centered, turned just a little to the right. The shop I took it to had another shop align the car, since there alignment machine was done.
So I had them realign it again. Same issue. The other shop said if he could get another shop to align this car, he'd pay for it.
Well, I waited til the shop I took the car to, had there machine working. They aligned it, and could not get the steering wheel straight. He told me when he kept the wheel dead straight, the numbers on the machine were way off. So when the numbers on the alignment machine matched 'perfectly', the steering wheel is turned slightly to the right.
Well, the car pulls to the right, which anyone could have guessed, so this car isn't aligned.
Now, I don't remember the car having this issue before the power steering rack was replaced, but I could be wrong.
Does anyone have a clue, as to why this car can't be aligned properly?
Note: I don't believe it has ever been wrecked. And before the re-alignment, I had this shop put on some new lower ball joints(Moog) & Moog rack bushings, at the same time they put the rack on.
06-01-2010 | 05:03 AM
#5898
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2
It's not the insult, its the fact that I have been reading Maxima.org for almost 4 months now. I have posted a few times after trying some of the stuff in the sticky threads (cleaning, sensor replacements, coil packs, etc) and the simple matter is this yay-hoo and yourself asked about info I put in the post that should be pertinent to what I asked and yet here I am being asked to include that info again. I'm just not willing to trust the opinions of people who won't even fully read what I said. How can you make a guess or diagnosis accurately if you can't be trusted to read into what was asked? Its nothing personal. I just judge a tree by the fruit it bears.
Later dudes.
Later dudes.
Listening to douches on a forum cost me a **** load of money once. They told me my clutch was out. I replaced my clutch, and still had the problem. It ended up being my master cylinder for my clutch. Lesson learned. Don't take everything people take for serious on forums. I'm glad nobody answered my question on here. Thanks *** buckets.
06-02-2010 | 04:27 AM
#5900
Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 270
From: Thomasville, GA
I had a reman'd power steering put on the car in the last few months, because the old one was shot.
The shop tried to give the car an alignment.
After the first, the steering wheel wasn't centered, turned just a little to the right. The shop I took it to had another shop align the car, since there alignment machine was done.
So I had them realign it again. Same issue. The other shop said if he could get another shop to align this car, he'd pay for it.
Well, I waited til the shop I took the car to, had there machine working. They aligned it, and could not get the steering wheel straight. He told me when he kept the wheel dead straight, the numbers on the machine were way off. So when the numbers on the alignment machine matched 'perfectly', the steering wheel is turned slightly to the right.
Well, the car pulls to the right, which anyone could have guessed, so this car isn't aligned.
Now, I don't remember the car having this issue before the power steering rack was replaced, but I could be wrong.
Does anyone have a clue, as to why this car can't be aligned properly?
Note: I don't believe it has ever been wrecked. And before the re-alignment, I had this shop put on some new lower ball joints(Moog) & Moog rack bushings, at the same time they put the rack on.
The shop tried to give the car an alignment.
After the first, the steering wheel wasn't centered, turned just a little to the right. The shop I took it to had another shop align the car, since there alignment machine was done.
So I had them realign it again. Same issue. The other shop said if he could get another shop to align this car, he'd pay for it.
Well, I waited til the shop I took the car to, had there machine working. They aligned it, and could not get the steering wheel straight. He told me when he kept the wheel dead straight, the numbers on the machine were way off. So when the numbers on the alignment machine matched 'perfectly', the steering wheel is turned slightly to the right.
Well, the car pulls to the right, which anyone could have guessed, so this car isn't aligned.
Now, I don't remember the car having this issue before the power steering rack was replaced, but I could be wrong.
Does anyone have a clue, as to why this car can't be aligned properly?
Note: I don't believe it has ever been wrecked. And before the re-alignment, I had this shop put on some new lower ball joints(Moog) & Moog rack bushings, at the same time they put the rack on.
06-02-2010 | 08:28 PM
#5901
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2
Hey, I have a '98 SE 5 speed. I just recently noticed when I am in neutral, it seems more loose than normal. Also, a light squeeking noise can be heard when moving from left to right still in neutral. All of the gears are fine, and it still feels normal when in gear. I was thinking a bushing might be blown? any thoughts before I start ripping it apart??
06-04-2010 | 06:56 PM
#5902
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 6
HELP PLEASE
hey guyz i own a 1997 maxima w/manual transmission... i was on the road and arrived to a stop sign but when i decided to took off it was very slow radio went off turned it back on went off again so i decided to turn it off...it happened to me a few times before. the next day when i wanted to start my car... cranked very slowly but didnt start headlights were dimmed lights in the cluster too came back a few moments later tried to start it heard that clicketing sound like my battery was dead then a few hours later no more lights can't even use the power lock nothin'...does it means that i was driving with power from the battery only and my alternator was not workin? nywayz jumpstarted my car it starts but as soon as i remove the cables rev it up a little,few moments later it dies again...went and replaced the battery... all the lights are bright and everything works but i'm afraid to take the road just in case the battery was not the problem and my alternator was... need some advice on this one
06-05-2010 | 05:35 AM
#5903
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 221
From: Canada
hey guyz i own a 1997 maxima w/manual transmission... i was on the road and arrived to a stop sign but when i decided to took off it was very slow radio went off turned it back on went off again so i decided to turn it off...it happened to me a few times before. the next day when i wanted to start my car... cranked very slowly but didnt start headlights were dimmed lights in the cluster too came back a few moments later tried to start it heard that clicketing sound like my battery was dead then a few hours later no more lights can't even use the power lock nothin'...does it means that i was driving with power from the battery only and my alternator was not workin? nywayz jumpstarted my car it starts but as soon as i remove the cables rev it up a little,few moments later it dies again...went and replaced the battery... all the lights are bright and everything works but i'm afraid to take the road just in case the battery was not the problem and my alternator was... need some advice on this one
06-05-2010 | 05:54 AM
#5904
Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 221
From: Canada
I had a reman'd power steering put on the car in the last few months, because the old one was shot.
The shop tried to give the car an alignment.
After the first, the steering wheel wasn't centered, turned just a little to the right. The shop I took it to had another shop align the car, since there alignment machine was done.
So I had them realign it again. Same issue. The other shop said if he could get another shop to align this car, he'd pay for it.
Well, I waited til the shop I took the car to, had there machine working. They aligned it, and could not get the steering wheel straight. He told me when he kept the wheel dead straight, the numbers on the machine were way off. So when the numbers on the alignment machine matched 'perfectly', the steering wheel is turned slightly to the right.
Well, the car pulls to the right, which anyone could have guessed, so this car isn't aligned.
Now, I don't remember the car having this issue before the power steering rack was replaced, but I could be wrong.
Does anyone have a clue, as to why this car can't be aligned properly?
Note: I don't believe it has ever been wrecked. And before the re-alignment, I had this shop put on some new lower ball joints(Moog) & Moog rack bushings, at the same time they put the rack on.
The shop tried to give the car an alignment.
After the first, the steering wheel wasn't centered, turned just a little to the right. The shop I took it to had another shop align the car, since there alignment machine was done.
So I had them realign it again. Same issue. The other shop said if he could get another shop to align this car, he'd pay for it.
Well, I waited til the shop I took the car to, had there machine working. They aligned it, and could not get the steering wheel straight. He told me when he kept the wheel dead straight, the numbers on the machine were way off. So when the numbers on the alignment machine matched 'perfectly', the steering wheel is turned slightly to the right.
Well, the car pulls to the right, which anyone could have guessed, so this car isn't aligned.
Now, I don't remember the car having this issue before the power steering rack was replaced, but I could be wrong.
Does anyone have a clue, as to why this car can't be aligned properly?
Note: I don't believe it has ever been wrecked. And before the re-alignment, I had this shop put on some new lower ball joints(Moog) & Moog rack bushings, at the same time they put the rack on.
I am not sure why they (or the other two shops) can't align your car properly. That is an unfortunate situation. Hopefully another member will come along and give you their advice.
The trouble here is that obviously the shop cannot do it properly. When you brought the car in, it was in better shape then when you got it back, therefore leaving it in their hands may not be in your best interest. Perhaps negotiate with them, get a discount or get them to take it to a shop that will align it AND have the steering wheel straight.
06-05-2010 | 01:32 PM
#5905
I had a reman'd power steering put on the car in the last few months, because the old one was shot.
The shop tried to give the car an alignment.
After the first, the steering wheel wasn't centered, turned just a little to the right. The shop I took it to had another shop align the car, since there alignment machine was done.
So I had them realign it again. Same issue. The other shop said if he could get another shop to align this car, he'd pay for it.
Well, I waited til the shop I took the car to, had there machine working. They aligned it, and could not get the steering wheel straight. He told me when he kept the wheel dead straight, the numbers on the machine were way off. So when the numbers on the alignment machine matched 'perfectly', the steering wheel is turned slightly to the right.
Well, the car pulls to the right, which anyone could have guessed, so this car isn't aligned.
Now, I don't remember the car having this issue before the power steering rack was replaced, but I could be wrong.
Does anyone have a clue, as to why this car can't be aligned properly?
Note: I don't believe it has ever been wrecked. And before the re-alignment, I had this shop put on some new lower ball joints(Moog) & Moog rack bushings, at the same time they put the rack on.
The shop tried to give the car an alignment.
After the first, the steering wheel wasn't centered, turned just a little to the right. The shop I took it to had another shop align the car, since there alignment machine was done.
So I had them realign it again. Same issue. The other shop said if he could get another shop to align this car, he'd pay for it.
Well, I waited til the shop I took the car to, had there machine working. They aligned it, and could not get the steering wheel straight. He told me when he kept the wheel dead straight, the numbers on the machine were way off. So when the numbers on the alignment machine matched 'perfectly', the steering wheel is turned slightly to the right.
Well, the car pulls to the right, which anyone could have guessed, so this car isn't aligned.
Now, I don't remember the car having this issue before the power steering rack was replaced, but I could be wrong.
Does anyone have a clue, as to why this car can't be aligned properly?
Note: I don't believe it has ever been wrecked. And before the re-alignment, I had this shop put on some new lower ball joints(Moog) & Moog rack bushings, at the same time they put the rack on.
PS was shot you say? Was it leaking? Mine was... And I'm assuming it got to one of the LCA bushings and is slowly rotting it away, causing my alignment issues (along w/ me spinning out and hitting a curb isn't helping that LCA either).
You said you had a shop put in ball joints? Well that aint exactly easy, you have to use a press to put in the ball joints, meaning they could have ever so slightly bent your LCAs upon ball joint install, which would cause your off readings.
Again, could be many things, this is just one thing... LCA's, they're cheap on fleabay, I'mma pick up some LCAs, ball joints, bushings, tie rods (inner/outer) [It's all one big package for like $130 shipped] someday and just replace all of it for shi's and giggles.
Last edited by aackshun; 06-05-2010 at 01:39 PM.
06-05-2010 | 03:44 PM
#5906
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 6
It could just be that your battery died. Check your alternator anyway, it will only take a few minutes. Bust out your multimeter and set it to volts. Start the car and put the leads on the battery posts. It should read 13-14ish volts. With the car off the battery should read about 12 volts. If your reading with the car started is higher than the reading with the car off, you're ok. If the reading with the car on is the same as the reading with the car off, then your alternator might need some attention. There are some threads on how to check it, etc.
i did what you recommended b4 starting my car i had 12.57 volts then when i started the car it dropped to 12.19 then it kept dropping really really slowly but never went back up... stopped the car waited like 2 mins went back to check battery voltage it went back up to 12.53v so i guess alternator is not working right?
06-05-2010 | 07:13 PM
#5907
No prob, should be any day now, I'm waiting on the key to arrive via snail mail.
Maximas don't pull to the right under normal load.... Under heavy acceleration, sure, torque steer.
You could be in the same boat I am, my car cannot be properly aligned due to the damaged right lower control arm, my alignment is much better off but not perfect.
PS was shot you say? Was it leaking? Mine was... And I'm assuming it got to one of the LCA bushings and is slowly rotting it away, causing my alignment issues (along w/ me spinning out and hitting a curb isn't helping that LCA either).
You said you had a shop put in ball joints? Well that aint exactly easy, you have to use a press to put in the ball joints, meaning they could have ever so slightly bent your LCAs upon ball joint install, which would cause your off readings.
Again, could be many things, this is just one thing... LCA's, they're cheap on fleabay, I'mma pick up some LCAs, ball joints, bushings, tie rods (inner/outer) [It's all one big package for like $130 shipped] someday and just replace all of it for shi's and giggles.
Maximas don't pull to the right under normal load.... Under heavy acceleration, sure, torque steer.
You could be in the same boat I am, my car cannot be properly aligned due to the damaged right lower control arm, my alignment is much better off but not perfect.
PS was shot you say? Was it leaking? Mine was... And I'm assuming it got to one of the LCA bushings and is slowly rotting it away, causing my alignment issues (along w/ me spinning out and hitting a curb isn't helping that LCA either).
You said you had a shop put in ball joints? Well that aint exactly easy, you have to use a press to put in the ball joints, meaning they could have ever so slightly bent your LCAs upon ball joint install, which would cause your off readings.
Again, could be many things, this is just one thing... LCA's, they're cheap on fleabay, I'mma pick up some LCAs, ball joints, bushings, tie rods (inner/outer) [It's all one big package for like $130 shipped] someday and just replace all of it for shi's and giggles.
as for the other guy and his car not getting aligned, it sounds more like they are missing a step in the proccess somewhere... or possibly that the power steering isnt "centered", i guess you could call it. it was put in but at a not centered stage... so when they align it with everything hooked up it wants to pull? as for the alignment, any car with unbent, unbroken, or unwarn suspensions can be aligned... only case i have seen that couldnt would be a 72 olds... total restoration but they had a left tie rod in place of a right tie rod and the rods were different length, so it maxed out to fast and couldnt get enough adjustment out of it... maybe you have a similar case...
06-06-2010 | 10:02 PM
#5908
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1
starting but not turning over
so i have just now decided to make an account due to car failure even though i have used the stickys in the past for help....
Anyways for a while my car was taking a while to turn over all the way and towards the end i had to crank it for about 15-30 seconds for it to start (and not on the first time either) just so i could get it to my house where it has now died. so i rented a OBD2 to figure out what was wrong and the codes i got were
PO340 camshaft sensor A bank 1 circuit malfunction
PO325 knock sensor 1 circuit malfunction bank 1 or sens 1
engine RPM 225
coolant temp 64 F
Speed 0 mph
fuel sys 1 and 2 open
i am definitely no expert when it comes to cars so if anyone can put there input into this itd be greatly appreciated
Anyways for a while my car was taking a while to turn over all the way and towards the end i had to crank it for about 15-30 seconds for it to start (and not on the first time either) just so i could get it to my house where it has now died. so i rented a OBD2 to figure out what was wrong and the codes i got were
PO340 camshaft sensor A bank 1 circuit malfunction
PO325 knock sensor 1 circuit malfunction bank 1 or sens 1
engine RPM 225
coolant temp 64 F
Speed 0 mph
fuel sys 1 and 2 open
i am definitely no expert when it comes to cars so if anyone can put there input into this itd be greatly appreciated
06-07-2010 | 09:13 AM
#5909
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 40
From: Seattle Wa
I've tried searching but I have not gotten I yes or no to my questions.. Q1.. will the jwt ecu upgrade for my 1995 5spd help acceleration HP and torque in all rpms, or does it just raise the rpm limit.
Q2 .. since I am not boosted I don't need big injectors but does anyone make an upgraded injector that offers a more precise spray?
Q2 .. since I am not boosted I don't need big injectors but does anyone make an upgraded injector that offers a more precise spray?
06-07-2010 | 09:24 AM
#5910
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 40
From: Seattle Wa
I've tried searching but I have not gotten I yes or no to my questions.. Q1.. will the jwt ecu upgrade for my 1995 5spd help acceleration HP and torque in all rpms, or does it just raise the rpm limit.
Q2 .. since I am not boosted I don't need big injectors but does anyone make an upgraded injector that offers a more precise spray?
Q2 .. since I am not boosted I don't need big injectors but does anyone make an upgraded injector that offers a more precise spray?
06-07-2010 | 03:32 PM
#5911
I've tried searching but I have not gotten I yes or no to my questions.. Q1.. will the jwt ecu upgrade for my 1995 5spd help acceleration HP and torque in all rpms, or does it just raise the rpm limit.
Q2 .. since I am not boosted I don't need big injectors but does anyone make an upgraded injector that offers a more precise spray?
Q2 .. since I am not boosted I don't need big injectors but does anyone make an upgraded injector that offers a more precise spray?
not sure about the injectors... doesnt seem like a worthwhile investment if your not worried about combustion... normal injectors do the job just fine... i mean its not like your advancing timing or adding more air or anything like that...
06-07-2010 | 09:32 PM
#5913
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 40
From: Seattle Wa
the jwt is a better tune for our cars. it can do many things. im sure if you went to their site youd find the answer you want. it can raise rev limiter, remove top speed limiter, and do a better tune... but if your stock... its probably not worth it right now...
not sure about the injectors... doesnt seem like a worthwhile investment if your not worried about combustion... normal injectors do the job just fine... i mean its not like your advancing timing or adding more air or anything like that...
not sure about the injectors... doesnt seem like a worthwhile investment if your not worried about combustion... normal injectors do the job just fine... i mean its not like your advancing timing or adding more air or anything like that...
thank you, i just know that when fuel is super atomized in the air it combusts better/quicker. so maybe there is a better than stock out there,,,,, ill just slap on a turbo so ill be forced to buy high flows!! deal. thanks for your reply
06-08-2010 | 06:46 AM
#5914
Member
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 32
From: Montreal, Quebec
hello, I am new here but I have a question... hehe..
I'm wondering if I can replace the door moldings ( the stripes in the middle of the door)
If so, where do I get them and how do I do it?
Thanx for the input
I'm wondering if I can replace the door moldings ( the stripes in the middle of the door)
If so, where do I get them and how do I do it?
Thanx for the input
06-08-2010 | 03:13 PM
#5915
Where - Junk yard. How - I don't know =(, you could just try to take things apart until you get what you need off and then reverse the process. (Just gotta be careful with what goes where)
06-09-2010 | 10:00 AM
#5918
06-10-2010 | 03:51 PM
#5919
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3
My friends 4th gen 5 speed wont go in reverse after he changed his clutch. The gear oil and clutch fluid are full. And its been bled. Everytime he shifts it in reverse the gears grind and it wont go in gear? Every other gear works fine 1st through 5th.
06-11-2010 | 07:07 AM
#5920
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 4,011
From: Worcester, MA
I would go OEM for FOB and let the dealer re-program. I dont know what it would cost and unforumately i cant get keyless enty cause my car doesnt ahve it.
Either its not programmed right, what u bought jus doesnt work properly, the FOB reciever is crapping out, or somethin is disconnected. When the last time u was able to use keyless entry if ever. Jus use the FSM and try to diagnos