Every morning, my Maxima "coughs" as I turn the key to start the car. Usually, I have to do it like three times for the car to start. By the third time, I usually press on the gas pedal and the car finally starts. I have been told that it could be a bad sensor. But, I have no idea what sensor it may be. The car runs great; just getting it to start is the issue. I thought it was something to do with the fuel injector, so I bought some Fuel Injection Cleaner from AutoZone a month ago. That hasn't done anything. I still have the problem with the car not wanting to start in the morning (and it's usually in the morning when the engine is cold). What do I do? Anybody had the same problem?

 

Are you throwing any codes?? You could start by cleaning your throttle body and IACV.

 

Okay that would take care of the light, but what about the actual skipping of the motor like it's running out of gas?????

 

it might actually be choking from running too rich.

 

QFT

 

Okay, The car doesnt seem like its running rich. You can stand behind it in a garage and it wont burn your eyes our choke you out (not that i do that all the time) The car seems like its getting great gas mileage. If I peg it off of a light or something, I can feel a bunch of dead spots where it kinda has pickup and then it doesnt. How common is it to have a bad injector on these cars?

 

Check yuor codes, then proceed. After that, clean your TB & IACV.

Stopping jumping to conclusions about injectors, etc until you know what the problem is, and that is what the error codes are for.

 

Okay, maybe Ive been visiting the wrong garage, These are just some of the things they threw at me. Trust me I dont want to buy any coil packs or injectors etc.etc.etc Ive already replaced the fuel filter but no big deal 11 bucks.

 

What exactly did they say about bank 1? Also, KS and O2 sensors typically offset each other meaning the O2 sensor sets off the KS, so the O2 needs to be replaced, but it shouldn't;t cause what you're experiencing. Why not check the codes for yourself and see what they tell you?

 

I was next to the guy when he pluged in the machine and ran the check. Thats what came up. Im gonna replace both sensors and see what happens. Im praying that thats all its gonna take to fix the problem. Most of my friends I have talked to about it said it sounds like a misfire, but I wanted to talk to some people on the site first who might know more about it than me or one of my buddies!

 

Try & get the actual code from the machine, or, get a flat screwdriver and check it yourself at your leisure.

It defi sounds like a misfire, and the code should tell you what cylinder it is in. Or, you could do a more basic test, and unplug / replug coil packs and see if it affects the idle at all.

 

Hey,

So I got a used 1997 Nissan Maxima GLE recently and everything is running fantastic but sometimes when I go to start the car nothing happens. The radio and such turn on and the lights come on in the instrument panel but when I move the key to start no starter motor is sound just nothing.

After a while of tinkering I was thinking it is the immobilizer. Recently I have tried shifting the car from park to Neutral and it seems to start after that. But I cannot pinpoint it exactly. Happened two times tonight. Car starts fine after the starter motor starts. Better then my new mazda.

I guess my question is what could it be? Why is this happening? Engine Problem? Wiring(this happens rain or sun and random)? Also would you happen to have an idea if I bring it to an auto body shop if they could disable the immobiziler since it is a 10 year old car doubt anyone would want to steal it.

Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank You.

 

Since you have a 97, you don't have an immobilizer. Only 99's have them. The culprit is most likely the ignition switch. A $35 part from Dave B at Southpoint Nissan. Fairly common problem with Maximas.

 

Thats the key here. Bare with me, as I am just another DIY starter mechanic in this forum, but there is something in the car that says:
"If the shift lever is in the Park mode, it is ok to start, if it is in other position, it is not ok to start." It has to be a position sensor, or whatever it is called. Whenever your car will not start, it thinks that your shift lever is not in Park. If you jigle or shift it, at some point in time the sensor switches over and you are ok to start the car.
Should be simple enough to replace, once you know what part it is
good luck,
Max

 

It is official today I went to pick up some stuff from CanadianTire and when I got back in the car nothing radio started climate control everything but when you would turn the key and expect the starter motor nothing dead silence.

I pressed the brake and shifted to Neutral and tried to start the car again and boom on first try. Would this happen to have anything to do with the transmission I just had rebuilt? or is it the sensor that tells the car its safe to start? or the ignition switch?

Any more input is appreciated before I call the transmission place and be very unhappy

Thanks

 

i am new to this forum and i just bought a 95 max, black 5 speed w/ 124,000 miles.. it has started for me fine every try. but the last owner said it would not start when it was cold out. im trying to figure out what the problem can be, it happend to me today, it cranked fine but it didnt want to start. im more of a hands on person than a send it in to the shop and have them do it. but id like to see if anyone else has had any of these problems or knows what it is or can be? the starter is new the guy said and its not that, im thinking something like a cold start sensor? also, i noticed my abs light is on and when i hit my breaks hard the front tires lock up and it stinks of burning breaks even when i break quickly but not too hard.. if anyone has any helping info please message me. thank you very much - Anthony


also, my back doors wont unlock when i unlock the car from the switch on the drivers door, and the back door windows do not roll down. is there a fuse that controls this?

 

hey guys this is my first post an my q has probably been answered a million times but can i an is there anything that i can interchange from a 2000 an up max to get some performance improvement out of my 98 se? just wondering cuz there is a crashed 01 max that i have acces to get parts off of or the whole car an is it worth it to do an engine swap with an auto tranny?

 

you can do a motor swap but that's more work and losing our manual tranny or you can just take the intake manifold and put it on yours - good hp gain. do a search for 00vi - that's the intake mani.

 

anyone?? any helpful info for me?

 

yo, you got problems man
for the windows - switches might just be disconnected. do the led lights in the switches come on when you have your lights on? might also be switches from a different model - gxe and se are the same but if you have gle instead they won't work.

starting issue - take the battery to a parts store and have it tested. just might not have enough cold cranking amps to turn the starter fast enough for ignition.

brakes...idk. maybe a brake job done incorrectly? maybe a bad abs sensor? hopefuly someone else can help you with those.

 

tomorrow im gonna try everything you said.. i havent noticed the lights on the switches actually.... thank you for giving me an idea where to start.. i dont think the batt is the problem.. cause when u start it you kinda have to give it a lil gas to help start it up. any other idea? maybe a coolant temp sensor??

 

nah, coolant doesn't start flowing until the car warms up. are your spark plugs good? what are they?

 

yeah.. i just changed them. i put in NGK's it had 3 ngk's in the back and in the front 3 cyl's it had bosch... last owners were F'ing lazy, but the car is in good hands now!

 

I read in the interior information that using an aftermarket headunit interferes with the bose speakers. I got a new headunit on June 28. Recently, my passenger side front and rear speakers both sound fuzzy. Should I just change both rear and both front speakers to aftermarket?

 

you can or you can use a cheap little device from scosche. walmart carries those too. http://www.scosche.com/products/productID/999

 

I have a 1999 Maxima SE with about 130k on it. Within the last few years, everytime I use the AC, it starts to smell really funny AFTER I turn off the AC but with the fan still going. If I use the car again within the next few hours, I usually open the windows to let it air out a bit. I've gotten into the habit of turn off the AC, and put the fan on max for like 10 or 20 seconds before I turn off the car.

After parking in the garage over night, the smell is gone the next day when I use the car. (I usually keep the fan on low speed when I drive).

What could be the cause of this smell after AC use? Does the AC needs to be serviced? The AC works fine otherwise.

Thanks! I did search the forum but didn't find anything.

 

have you tried to change the r34 in the low side lines?

 

Sorry can you explain this in English?

This doesn't sound like something I can do myself. If I bring it in to a mechanic, what kind of service is required to fix the problem?

Thanks.

 

does it smell like mildew/mold by any chance? You can spray lysol in your fresh air intake to kill the mold thats growing in the ducts. I have read about it in a different car forum, but that should give you enough info to search more.

 

Can someone please explain in details and with examples step by step how to post pics in this forum?

 

the gas you put in the air conditioner lines to make it work properly and cold.. have you checked it or changed it?

 

you need to host the pictures on a website somewhere.
then put the URL of the picture in between a set of [img] [/img] tags.

 

one more thing is there anything i need to change to put dek cams in?

 

Ok,

So gf called today paniking that the car wont start - she had it in park and nothing. I told her to put the car in neutral and boom started.... after reading on the internet it seems like the neutral safety switch. Many people say to replace, but the car is good in neutral and reverse lights come on and so on.

I was wondering if replacing the switch was hard and if people had any pics? or how about do you go in adjusting the switch maybe it doesnt get that its in park sometimes?

Thanks so mcuh

 

i am still having this starting problem... when i try to start it i need to give it a little bit of gas to help it start. i changed plugs and fuel filter, its not skipping. it just hard to start?? i checked battery its fine. cold cranking amps is like 375 for the car and my battery is pushing 675 cca.. i got a brand new starter. not making a diffrence

 

If it's mold in the ducts then I would smell it with just fans and without AC right? The thing is I only smell this after I turn off the AC. With heating or just fan I don't smell anything.

Does air flow takes a different path when AC is in use?

 

there's a bunch of info in the all motor section. you'll need adapters for the dek cams that one of the org members makes and sells...i'm just too tired to search

EDIT: i'mso tired that i messed up. the adapters are for vq35 cams.the vq30 and vq30dek engines are identical except the vi manifold which adds the "k" to the name.

 

So for example I have uploaded my pics to Picasa Web Albom and this is the link: http://picasaweb.google.com/yashasla...97601270226354

But when I put it in between these tags, that whats comes up


So what am I doing wrong?

 

So I figured out how to post pics, thanks

No I have a question. I am replacing my KS and you see how little space I've got on my 99 Calispec Max. So #2 on third pic is in a way. I was told that it is power valve actuator and con be removed(my friend doesn't have it on his 96 fedspec max). Now to put it back do I need to torque the fasteners, put anti-seize or other type of gel.

Can someone navigate me to a proper section of the FSM for it?

Thank you guys again.

 

I have a '97 SE that has 145k mi that I've owned for a year and ~ 16k mi. I highway commute 50mi/day and do not abuse the car- I have other cars for that! The other day my Max developed a grinding in the trans. in 1-4 but then went quite in 5th- it sounded like a throw out bearing to me. Unfortunately, the input shaft had broken. The PO did all in town stop and go driving in Atl., so maybe just too rough, but I'd have to think maybe someone flogged this transmission in the past.

My questions:

1) Anyone have a 4th Gen manual for sale in the Atl area? I'd also consider buying a wrecked car since I could use some other bits. I'd post in the wanted but I can't yet.

2) My trans. is an open model. Is there anything I should know, or any problems that might arise w.r.t. installation, half shaft splines, etc..., if I change over to a limited slip (VLSD) trans- which I would prefer.

Thanks!
Walt