look around - direct replacment o2's are about $50 online. they're mounted in the y-pipe, you'll see them when you get under the car. often the ks code pops up with bad o2's and even if only one is bad it's recommended that you replace both. i'd suggest replacing your o2's and clearing the codes, after that wait to see if the ks comes back.

 

are those 00-03 max wheels? they'll fit. as for the shoes - what's the rim size?

 

Replaced my KS with one from eBay (~$50) back in April 08, so far so good.

Good luck.

 

17inch......i tried the wheel on (don't have tires yet) i just wanna make sure i don't need spacers for front or back to clear the shocks........
does anyone have these on a 98 max if so what tire size best (cheapest)............i know I'm a noob but am trying to fit these for monday.......thanks in advance

 

Hey, this may be a noob question, but it's really been bothering me. I had the alternator changed in my 98 about 4 weeks ago. After a week of mostly night driving (along with heavy stereo and a/c use) the battery died on me. I recharged the battery and have been driving the car and all seems well. Except that the AIR BAG light keeps flashing. Does anyone here know what a flashing air bag light means?

 

i've ran 17x8 with +40 offset and they cleared fine. what's the width of the rim though - otherwise unable to give you a tire size.

 

The width is 7J if that makes any sense.............

 

means 7". idk what j stands for - mine have jj. you can get 215, 225 or 235 wide tires and they'll cost you a LOT. that's why i'm selling mine. it's around $200/tire if you want all weather all seasons. summer tires only can be had under $100/piece.

 

For the dead battery, check youtr terminals, and all the wiring to/from the alt. For the lite, search "air bag light".

 

Did your battery get "de-charged" by a defective alternator before you put the new one on? If so....did you make sure it (battery) had a maximum charge on it before you put the new alternator on?

 

Not to thread high-jack, but have any of you had issues with the rear power window regulators breaking? First, the passenger side broke (old, brittle plastic) and so I replaced it. Now the driver's side has popped.

Is there any way to slow down the speed on the motor, or at least adjust the "intensity" if you will?

Thanks!!

 

Here's a good site to get yourself some oxygen sensors. Usually free shipping over 49 bucks, and a really good price. https://www.oxygensensors.com/index....152&height=864

Walker's are usually pretty good, and look like the OEM replacement. Good quality thus far, in my experiences.

Good luck!!

 

That's sounds interesting, how much would you sell it to me for?

 

On that picture that guy has on a maintenance website:
http://motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507
he has all cleared up, on my max it is twice more all kind of tubes and other stuff, I wish I'd had the same situation as he does. I can't even see where my KS is, and he was even able to stick a camera in there.

 

I am sorry guys I did not know, I got my car from Philadelphia and the original owner was also from Philadelphia(Car Fax). However now I've checked it and my car is 99 calispecs. But what does it mean, what are the differences in my car and how do they effect performance?

And since I've just fond out that my Max has calispecs, so I guess it is close to impossible to replace the KS. or there is still hope?

By the way does it mean that now I have to buy everything for calispec (02 sensor) or since I live in NY it is not necessary?

 

there's more emission stuff on which takes away a little bit of power. since you don't live in ca you can convert to fed spec.

 

Please tell me how, where do I find the info. I am sure it is completely safe, but I am just making sure that it is, right?

 

info might be in the stickies or older threads. not sure if ecu is needed but fed spec headers/y pipe and i'll look what more is involved, i'll post or pm you what i find later.

EDIT: found a write up http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...-complete.html

 

i have new front pads and rotors for my 97. i'm planning on calling around and getting them installed. how much should i expect to pay?

 

IMO, one hour of labor. Price will vary from $60 to $85

 

Some recent some what relevant discussion can be found here too
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ed-better.html

To answer your original question. A KS is a KS, no such thing as a Calispec KS. And yes, it's close to impossible to replace w/o removing the upper and lower intake manifolds.

 

My car drives and runs great most of the time. Once in a while (maybe once a week) it has trouble starting. If i turn the car to on and wait a second then turn it over it starts perfect every time, and every few months i get the service engine light and its alwaysan o2 and knock sensor (bank one). Also sometimes when i go up hills my car reeks like rotten eggs no madder what gas i put in. could these things be related. I need a new exhaust system of some sort because the one i have now is completly rested and only being held up by some mechanics wire, the resonator? on the back is rusted throough on the back. Any sujections or places so start...? I probably should mention im a broke college kid. =]

 

the egg smell is your cat getting flooded with unburnt fuel. new 02 sensors would be a start. exhaust work isn't too expensive at a muffler shop or buy new parts and put them on yourself.

 

hey guys, on 98 maxima, does the stock alarm or keyless entry make any noise if being broke into or does it make any noise when locking or unlocking the car. i'm trying to decide on whether to buy a new key less entry key 30 bucks, (lady who sold me car ended up losing it) or to just put on a whole new alarm system.
thanks in advance

 

Yes, it makes noise if you open the doors/hood with the alarm on. Not if the glass is broken only.

No noise when arming/disarming via keyfob.

 

okay cool thanks alot,
I'm not too far from ya, I'm in Perris, Moreno valley area

 

so i've already searched the other thread about my current problem and everything they tell me to do i've done or have thought about doing. what is the best way to remove the bolt off the crank pulley?

1. i read the haynes manual and that told me strap wrench and breaker bar.
2. i read the autozone repair manual thing and they tell me to put a screw driver into the teeth of the fly wheel and break the torque with a breaker bar.
3. the forum and a friend told me brace a breaker bar on something solid and crank the engine to break the torque.
4. my cousin told me to put the car in gear and try to break the torque that way.
5. another thing i read was to remove the starter and stick something in there and break the torque that way.
6. i also thought about using an impact wrench.

1. i tried number 1 and that didn't work too well,the pulley rotated every so often, 2 hours in and i gave up.
2. as to number 2 i dunno where the flywheel is and is there an easy way to get to it.
3. what would i brace the breaker bar on and is this a safe method of breaking the torque.
4. i tried this one too but the pulley kept rotating
5. this is gonna sound rediculous but where is the starter? and will i risk damaging anything if i stick something in there to stop things from moving.
6. the only problem i saw with this method was i'd spin the hell out of the crank if i tried this.

so is any one able to help me with my plight? because i need a car to get around to school every day and having a car that sits there kinda renders it useless.

 

Check out the West Coast forum for meets etc.

 

Depends if you're auto or stick.

If stick, then option 3 or 4 works great. For option 3, put the breaker bar on the crank pulley and facing the front of the car and have the end of it about 6" from the ground with a block of wood to protect the ground/concrete from chipping. Blip the car as if you were to start it. Victory shall be yours! For option 4, put the car in 5th gear and have someone press on the brakes hard while someone else tries to remove the cp with a breaker bar.

If auto then option 3 works great. Not option 4. See above.

Option 6 will work too.

Good luck.

 

when i have my headlights on, and i apply the brake, the gauges dim a little.
is this normal?

 

thanks man, this helps alot

but what about the reverse when i'm trying to put the pulley back on?

 

could be the altenator

 

My advice depends on whether you're auto or stick. Fess up! lol

 

my bad it's a 5spd

 

Since you're stick, it's real easy. Same as uninstalling in option 4. Have someone on the brakes hard while in 5th gear, and torque accordingly.

 

what are the signs of a dying alternator?

 

not being able to charge the battery. while the car is running hook up a voltage meter and you'll know what it's putting out - shouldn't be less than 12v. you can get it tested at a parts store too but it involves removing.

 

i think voltage should be 14.7 or something while car is running with good alt

 

Hi, Everyone new here and I hope im posting this in the right place. I have a 98 maxima se automatic. I have a problem that has gotten progressively worse. When my car is in drive and im standing on the brake or basically while the car is under a load it seems like it is skipping, almost as if I was running out of gas. The engine light was on, I had it scanned with a snap on tool and it came up with o2 sensor and knock sensor. Also the garage said something about bank 1. I dont know if this is a common problem with these cars but was hoping that someone here has had this happen and could help me out. I was thinking it was gonna say misfire because thats what it sounds and feels like but it didnt. Any help with this matter would be greatly appreciated thanks.

 

your knock sensor is more than likely fine - the code for it comes up with bad o2 sensors. replace your o2 and erase the codes - you'll be fine. it's recommended to replace both o2's at the same time.