If you want to be lazy, and you're going to proclaim such, people are going to be a lot less inclined to help you. You have to do some of the work yourself, can't rely on everyone else spoon feeding you.

You wouldn't gain any appreciable amount of power with a HFC.

For replacing the Bose, you either need the converter or you need to replace all of the speakers.

 

and also where some people get those black maxima badges that are in the front that are like 2 circles surrounded by chrome. They look nice, right now my burger is just painted black and looks a little tacky

 

both front and rear are leaking. how long does it take to replace both? is it better or easier to do the front first then do the rear the next day? about how much it cost to buy parts from dealer? its there any special tools i need to use? what's UIM? i'm noob so please help!!

 

Do you have a picture of what you're referring to?

 

UIM == Upper Iintake Manifold.

Your first time, depending on whether or not you're any good with mechanical work, could take from 2 hours to 2 days or more.

Why would you do them on separate days?

You don't need any special tools, a basic set of hand tools will do just fine.

It's about $63 for both VC gaskets and the 6 plug tube seals from Courtesy. Personally I would (and I did) just buy a full gasket kit from eBay, so you can replace the UIM-LIM, EGR guide tube, TB, and IACV gaskets. You'll probably want to clean the EGR tube, your TB, and IACV while the UIM is off.

 

The front is easy, should take no more than an hour, depending on how long you spend scraping and cleaning. The rear is much more time consuming; I spent all day doing it, but half of that was cleaning the IACV, the throttle body, the EGR guide tube, and the upper intake manifold (UIM) itself. Removing the UIM is hard because the bolts on the back of it, and on the EGR guide tube, and very hard to get to. A 12mm offset wrench is useful for getting those bolts off. Also there's two coolant hoses attached to the back of the UIM that are hard to get off.

From a dealer the gaskets are around $18-$20 each. You should also replace the spark plug tube seals - about $5 each and there are six of them. Finally, it's a good idea to also replace the UIM gasket ($5), the IACV gasket ($5, not strictly necessary to remove the IACV but makes things easier) and the EGR guide tube top side gasket. You can get a Felpro or Carquest gasket set for $50-$60 that has the valve cover gaskets, tube seals, and valve cover bolt grommets, but I found the spark plug tube seals didn't fit, so I wasted my money.

I'd say this - if you consider yourself a "total noob" then you can do the front cover, but I wouldn't attempt the rear unless you can get somebody more experienced to help.

 

i searched ebay can't find any gasket kit for my car. could you show me some links for the gasket kit? thank you

 

http://shop.ebay.com/items/_W0QQ_dmp...+set&_osacat=0

I bought this exact one here - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/95-99...6504QQtcZphoto

As far as I remember, it was about $10 cheaper when I got it, like a year ago. Everything was perfect fit and OEM quality. Still got the head gaskets and valve stem seals sitting around here somewhere...

 

Hello I have another silly question. I tried googling this for a while but I always get some weird how-to.

But my question is that, can you apply clear coat on your car just for a shine just like the way you apply wax except you spray on clear coat instead?

I tried spraying some clear coat onto a cloth and then wiped it on my brothers (old, old, and abused) work truck, and the color just instantly came to life. So, are there any negative effects? Should I sand the car down first? Or should I just avoid this whole thing in general and just wax it. THankyou!

 

if you wet sand too much your paint will look like crap - even worse after clear coating.

if your original clear is not peeling away - wash the area you'll be spraying, let dry, wipe with a lint free towel with paint thinner, let dry and apply clear coat ( if there's dust or any other contaminant in the air that can settle on the wet clear the job will be ruined).

paint is very easy to mess up so think twice before learning on your own car. you can try and learn on your brothers truck

 

^ nope. something must've been done wrong during installation or they gave you a bad or wrong ps pump. go back to the shop and have them fix it as many times as it'll take themto get it right.

 

Hahah, thankyou. I have had a lot of experience with messing with paint haha. But, now I know what you are saying, I need to remove the old clear coat first or at least some of it before I spray on a new layer.

But I looked back on my brothers truck and now I see that the place where I put the clear coat is peeling off. Guess it was too thin! Maybe I should just stick with wax LOL

 

Any ideas on this folks?

 

I have a few questions about the 6 speed swap. First, does the cps hole have to be enlarged if you use a FWD (Maxima) flywheel, or is that just for the RWD fidanza flywheel? Second, did anyone have to use a leveler when they were installing the 6 speed trans mount to make sure the engine/transmission assembly was level? Third, could someone elaborate on the starting problems people are having with this swap? I've read something about grinding noises, stalling on startup, or not starting at all.

 

Man, I can't wait 'til I get my 15 posts!

In any case, I'm going to need a new exhaust system soon on my '98. Probably won't make it past another PA inspection. Pretty rusty, including the catyl. converter, so I'm expecting the worst. It's original.

Two questions:
Anyone know what would be a fair price?
Anyone know a decent shop in Chester County? I'm in Downingtown.

Thanks.

 

Fair price for...what? Repair at a shop, a custom exhaust at a shop, OEM replacement pieces, or an aftermarket catback?

And for any sort of local information, you need to go here - http://forums.maxima.org/northeastern-u-s-11/

 

It wouldn't matter, the flywheels are the same except for the timing ring, which you wouldn't be using (you would use the VQ30 timing ring).

No real need to level everything out, the other 3 mounts hold it in about the right position. Besides, there's no real adjustment for moving the mount up/down, as it sits on the frame rail (for lack of a better term).

If you're having starting problems, you didn't do it correctly. If isn't starting properly, then there's a timing ring or CKPS POS alignment issue. If there's grinding, then something obviously wasn't installed correctly, as there are clearance issues.

Have you read this thread?

 

The system is designed for ATF, not PS fluid. Not a major difference, but just an FYI.

 

Thanks for the info. I did read that thread but I needed someone to elaborate on some of the things in there. I have not done the swap yet but I was reading about other members that have done the swap and apparently had some terrible starter noise at startup.

 

Grinding could've been from the wrong starter, or I believe the earlier Fidanzas had some problems with that.

 

I need to replace my Knock sensor in my '97 SE. Looking around online, most of them range from $125 to $170. Then I went to Checker's online and found that they had 4 different sensors available. The first 3 were $150s to $170s then the last one was $72. They all have "Limited 1 year warranty".

So, what is the difference in quality? The $72 one is made by Master Pro. Here is the link:
http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductL...pe=412&PTSet=A

 

As far as OReilly goes... the $72 one is not stocked and is of lower quality etc. They stock and can get faster the larger name company's parts bcause they are more expencive and most people are not patient when it comes to parts. They just buy what they can get to get the Check Engine light to shut off so their cars will pass smog.

Personaly, if you have the time to look, I think youd be better off looking for people online here that have them available. A lot of people here will strip these types of pieces off the junk yards, test em, and sell what they have come across. I know that I just sold one for $40+shipping. But that was my last one.

 

Just get one off of eBay. It's an OEM part in an OEM box for ~$60 shipped.

 

A couple of days ago I decided to change my valve cover gaskets, both the upper and lower manifold gaskets, and spark plugs. In the process, I also cleaned the EGR (which was completely clogged with carbon deposits), the throttle body, the IACV, and the intake manifold. After I put everything together my car is now idling at 1500rpms, and after I took it for a 5 minute drive the idles shot up to almost 3k rpms. My idling was just fine before I did all this, and I also doubt that there are any vacuum leaks anywhere. I did a lot of research on this forum and got lots of good info, but I also have a few noobie questions which I couldn't really find answers to.

1) How much is the plastic screw supposed to turn on the IACV? Mine only seems to turn about 3/4 of a turn each way, so I don't know if it's doing anything. (I disconnected the TPS before adjusting this with the engine on and it didn't seem to do anything to the idling)

2) My high idle cam on my TB needs to be adjusted greatly. The marks are completely off, so how do I adjust it? Which bolt do i turn?

3) Is it possible that the increased idling speed is because the EGR isn't clogged anymore and exhaust gas is being recirculated?

4) If anyone has gone through this before, is there anything specific that I need to do to solve this?

TIA

 

Few questions:

Could i use rtv on the tranny pan bolts to seal it, instead of buying new self
sealing bolts?

Once the pan is off, do I just undo the bolts on the filter to remove it, or is there any specific bolts to remove?

Can I clean the filter thats in the tranny instead of buying a new one?

 

I did the valve cover job on my 95. The only issue I had afterwards was an erratic idle, that would come and go every 30 sec. Turns out I forgot to plug the EGR solenoid back in. lol

Runs fine. Maybe you forgot to plug something back in?
And also, their are many vacuum lines that could easily be missed. Do you have a pic of your engine bay in the area of the IACV and bottom of the tb?

 

1. Should turn more than that.
2. See below.
3. EGR does nothing at idle speeds.

FIC adjustment:


Why do you doubt that there are any vacuum leaks? Just a guess?

It's a relatively common experience to get a higher idle after cleaning out the TB/IACV. Sometimes it'll adjust itself down after a bit.

 

It's not a filter, it's a screen. All you need to do is clean it.

No real need to RTV up the bolts, IME. It won't leak.

There are specific bolts to remove, but they're all rather obvious. They would be the ones holding the screen in place.

The bolts you need to remove are in black:

 

I think I know what happened. Here are a few pics of what I discovered. I believe that in all the cleaning the TB high idle cam adjustment might have been thrown off by accident. My TB is not closing all the way like it should during idling. I know that there weren't any vacuum leaks because I meticulously made sure that I knew which vacuum hoses went where before taking everything apart.

First, here is a pic of the area round the IACV/TB and the bottom of the TB as requested. All of the vacuum lines seem to be in place:





This is a picture of the high idle cam marks, they clearly are way off:



This is a picture of the adjustment screw that sits on the thermal piston thing, it is not sitting properly at all.



And finally, here is a picture of the inside flap of the throttle body (I think it's called a butterfly if I'm not mistaken). There is a substantial amount of opening here, even with the throttle valve down.



If you guys have any other thoughts it would greatly be appreciated.

TIA

 

Look right underneath the tb. See that black plug that just blocks off the vacuum?
Now, the hole next to it on the left. Where is the stem? On my 95, their is a stem there, that a vacuum hose goes over. Maybe the picture is fooling me?

The tb butterfly does look like it is too far open.

idk, what do you think pmohr?

 

Best I've seen, some have it, some don't.

 

Sorry, forgot to mention that I have a 1998 SE. I don't think there is anything that goes there on my year Maxima. I had a 1995 GLE, which I gave to a friend (started having tranny problems), and I was surprised to see how different both engines were. There seem to be many more electrical components to the 1998 models. But anyway, I adjusted the high idle cams and there still seems to be a gap around the butterfly. I will put everything back together tomorrow or so and get back to you guys. Thanks a lot for the help!!

And also, after I put everything back together I also started hearing a whining noise in the engine bay like this guy: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...now-p0105.html

 

2 questions:

-Whats the torque specs on steel and aluminum wheels on the 95's?

-Was curious if I could put the 15's on my 92 camry v6 xle onto the 95 max gle?

I dont know if the offsets match, but I wonder if the wheels do on lug pattern?

It's the aluminum rims on a 92 camry v6 xle.

I have the OEM steel rims on the 95 max.
The rim says 15x6JJ and in between the other spoke, '45'

 

You'll have to measure the diameter of the center hub, IIRC the Camry's is larger.

Is that a coupe or a sedan? I would love to get a 1MZ 5MT coupe...

 

Sedan, and it's an auto and 3VZ. Blown head gasket, so Im selling it.

btw, do you have those torque specs on steel and aluminum rims?

 

Lugnut torque specs are right around 85 ft/lbs, IIRC.

 

would it be bad to set them at 72-74? The ratchet torque wrench i have only goes to 74. :/

 

Why would you?

Just follow factory spec...

 

I got a chance to put everything back together today and idling is still high. As far as the EGR whining noise or whatever, it is gone now. As it turned out I forgot to put the EGR gasket in (not sure if that specifically solved the whining noise). There is no CEL, just high idling even after adjusting the high idle cam. Is it possible the IACV is stuck completely open? And I tried turning that plastic screw on top of the IACV while it was out, but the thing wouldn't turn that much at all for some reason.

 

A few posts back, Ive explained a noise, a low groan coming from my new powersteering. It is a cardone and prolly reman'd.

I talked to a mechanic, he said it's probably the way the rebuilder did the valves and is common. As long as the noise doesn't get louder, it should be ok.

But he said you could use some Lucus for ps's and it would quiet it up some.

Any experiences about doing this?