Are you from Canada or the US? Original trans in the car, or has it been replaced? Do you have either of the axles out?

 

Minnesota, both axels are in, i have no clue if its original cuz i just bought this car.

 

Without being able to look at an axle, looking through the diff, knowing if it's the original trans, or being operational, no real way to say.

Can you read the VIN tag on the trans? I can run that and see, but there's a very slim chance it's a VLSD trans (not available on the USDM 4th gen Maxima).

 

So i just bought this RS Type Coilover Conversion Kit from a guy in my town for 30$, they are brand new never used. I dont know what else I need so i can do the drop. I have some pictures showing these. First off, what else is needed if anything, and second are these even any good or worth it?
there is a link to the pictures.

http://s646.photobucket.com/albums/uu185/watson545/

 

I was thinking of changing my clutch and I wanted to know which clutch would you guys recommend? I was thinking Exedy but off ebay and I dont know if its the samething. I am putting headers, y pipe, cattback exhaust, and changed my short ram intake (if it matters).

P.S My pockets are kind of tight. Im looking for something reasonable but good quality

 

Just go with a 5th gen clutch. OEM parts and will hold more than enough power for you.

 

O ok thanks. I have one more question, my gears arent long at all. 1st gear could barely give me more 20-25mph. I am about to get a tune up which i havent got in a while. I was thinking after I change my clutch I should be good. Is there something else I should do?

 

Is the clutch slipping?

Other than that, the clutch would have absolutely nothing to do with gear ratio or top speed in each gear; that's purely a combination of redline, gear ratio, final drive, and tire size..

 

I am replacing my thermostat this weekend. I'm planning on giving the radiator a good flushing as well. Is it necessary to drain the coolant from the enigine? I've read on here where the engine drain plugs are a pain to get to.

 

No need to drain the engine, really. Just flush it out as well if you'd like.

 

After draining the radiator, will much coolant drain out of the engine when i remove the thermostat? Thanks!

 

I have a 97 SE with 115k. It has had trouble occasionally starting in the past, taking several seconds to finally catch. It runs fine once it is going. I went to start it this past Monday and it cranks fine but just won't start.

I pulled the fuel filter and turned the key to the "on" position and got gas coming out so I figure the pump is working (but haven't checked the pressure). I went ahead and changed the filter while I was there. I then poured some gas into intake manifold with no results. I checked fuses and relays and they seem fine. Then I checked for spark and there was none.

So, what could cause the spark issue? I'm assuming that the timing chain is OK. I haven't checked the codes yet, but the check engine light never came on. I'll check the OBD codes this weekend. Any suggestions?

 

anyone going to help with my question?

 

Hello to all! I recently purchased a 1998 with 105k miles on it. After driving it for a few weeks I noticed that it is shifting somewhat hard into 2nd and 3rd gear. It seems to get a little better as it warms up. I was thinking about getting the fluid flushed but upon checking it, it appears to be in excellent shape. Also, if I drive it like a "granny", give it gas very slowly, it seems to shift normally. Someone told me to change the fuel filter and another told me to clean the intake manifold(I think). Can ANYONE offer some insight to help me diagnose this problem?

 

A fair amount, but not all of it.

When it's hesitating to start, are you sticking the key in and immediately trying to crank it? Is that what you do all the time?

Have you noticed any specific conditions under which it hesitates? Reproducible at all?

Change out the trans fluid to a nice synthetic. Not flush, just a drain and fill.
When it's shifting hard, how much are you getting on it? At what RPM is it shifting, 'normal driving' (~2500-4000), or more 'spirited' (4500+)?

 

Hey, thanks for your response! To answer your question tho, it shifts at the appropriate time I believe, its just a little hard. I'm not driving it rough or anything(pushing it). I drive with a little sense, not a speed racer kinda guy! I'm just wondering if it could be fuel related? It seems like if youre easy(really easy) on the gas it shifts fine, and when you drive it normally it shifts hard. If you drive it say 20 miles, itseems to start to shift normally tho. I only live 12 miles away from work, and basically drive this car to work, it shifts hard the whole ride! Any insight would be much appreciated!

 

For a temperature related shifting problem, first thing I'd personally check is TPS adjustment. It will change with temperature, and the TPS can greatly affect how the auto acts.

http://www.vqpower.com/v2/articles.php?article_id=95

 

I just put the key in and turn it. I don't pause or anything. The hesitation in starting seems to occur more often when it is warm outside.

 

Try just pausing in ignition for a second or two, let the fuel system prime. It could very well just be bleeding down overnight sometimes, leading to a harder start.

 

What about the throttle body itself? Do you suppose if it was cleaned this would be the cause? Someone told me it I cleaned the throttle body and changed the fuel filter that this may correct it. And with the TPS, are you suggesting getting a new one, or adjusting it somehow?

 

Should I be concerned with the coolant draining down on the the alternator?

 

Not really, IMO. By the time you've finished up refilling the radiator and cooling system, it'll be about dried up.

 

It's a remote possibility, and a good idea to clean the IACV and TB if you haven't in a while.

Just check the TPS for now, if it's off I'd adjust it, if it can't be adjusted properly then replace it.

 

Could be the ECTS

 

Is that the same procedure for a 95-96 GXE? Just cut out the fog lamp location in the bumper or do you need an SE bumper?

 

I'm buying new ignition coils, but was wondering if I should get a specific kind, and if so what should I be paying? Ive looked in search and saw Mitsubishi/hanshins were good? Heres some I'm looking at.

1
2
3

 

Yes, same on any of the cars that don't have fogs. Just cut away, but be careful or it'll look like crap.

 

I did try waiting and no result. I just finished checking the codes and had 2 codes flash: 1) Knock Sensor and 2) Camshaft Position Sensor

Could this be a timing chain issue? If so how do I check? If not, do you have any other ideas?

Thanks

 

I haven't had any indications of the ECTS. How would I verify this?

 

That's not a timing chain issue.

Test and replace the CPS if necessary, that's most likely the problem (the codes help a lot).

 

I'm back with my rear suspension "thump, knock, clunk" aka the most annoying noise in the world. Anyway I jacked her up today and everything seemed to be in order, so i decided to tap around with a rubber mallet. I hit the torsion beam and bam, there's my noise. So what next?? Forgive me as I know little about suspension. Also, unrelated I got a code for my rear o2 sensor that I just replaced < 6 months ago. I'm going to test the connection, but my question there is whether it's kosher to try to clean it with TB cleaner or not. Thanks in advance.

 

try your suspenshion, take off the fabric on the inside of the trunk and the small rubber cap...bounce the car a bit and see if the strut is solid on the car or if it moves a bit...try that i had the same problem cept on the front

 

sorry dude i dont know much about this one otherwise i would help, try bumping the question

 

The lugs deff are not loose, and the shocks seem to be fine (did a bounce test and no oil is leaking, cracks etc...). After tapping the torsion beam the noise was reproduced.

 

So i just got my car back from the shop last night, they did the whole lower front rad support and my clutch. I get in the car and start it and notice none of my guages are working. So they tell me to come back on monday and they will get it fixed. Later as im driving that night i noticed fluids dripping from my car, I thought it was just oil from the oil spray to rustproof the new lower rad support. Little later on in the evening i notice my power steering is starting to whine and getting harder to turn the steering wheel. I didnt think anthing of it. So it was than dark out and i was driving, my lights start flickering and than they just go out, my car is also trying to bog down but after a give it a little more gas it starts going again. Luckily when this all happened I was just pulling in to my work area. I than noticed i had no power steering at all and all my lights were not working. I than decided that I should bring the car home since it is only about 3km away. Im driving it really carefully and I have no headlights or dashlights at this point. Almost get to my street and my car bogs down and dies. I later found out that my power steering was leaking and I had no power steering, I am now wondering if driving without the power steering messed up my engine or anything else on my car.

 

Running the PS fluid dry won't cause the engine to die or bog down, that's a seperate issue. That could very well damage the PS pump, though.

Have you refilled the system and checked where it's leaking from? Most likely it's the cooler/bypass tube (depending on model) in front of the condenser.

Anyway, just bring it back to them, hopefully they should cover everything.

 

Well it was leaking near the lower front rad support, or on to it cause it was all dripping off the rad support, it was the front passenger side of the rad support. I thought that it would be the alternator seeing as i couldnt start my car up after it died, so i brought some friends to come push it and i tried starting it and it started right up again, lights turned on than flickerd out again and the power steering still didnt work, you could tell the engine was bogging down. By law does the mechanic have to fix this all seeing how there was nothing wrong with the car except a knock sensor code when i gave it to him?

 

Well if the PS pump locked up, it could try to bring the engine down with it, but almost guaranteed that the belt would just slip on the pulley, considering the size of it.

I don't know about by law, but any good shop would. Of course they could very well claim that you caused more damage by driving it empty (which you likely did).

 

I did drive it empty because they didnt end up hooking it back up the right way, so technically thats not my fault, and i live in canada so maybe the laws are different about mechanics. But should i fill up the power steering before i cruise it all the way to the shop?

 

Unless you want to cause more damage, yes. Though driving around with electrical problems as you're having could be dangerous, as it could affect more than just the headlight and gauge functionality. Could always try calling them and see if they'll tow it over there on their dime.