The P/N switch grounds out a B+ sent to the relay, energizing the coil which then triggers the closure of terminals 6 and 7. If you weren't getting the P/N signal, the relay can be fine but the car won't start.

Break out the multimeter and check for power at pin 1 in the socket for the relay (with the Ignition on), and with the ignition on and the car in park or neutral, check for a ground at pin 2.

 

With the jumper from terminal 6 & 7 removed, the relay removed i placed the postive probe of the meter in terminal 1 and the negative probe of the meter in terminal 2 i get a reading of -0.050 DCV

 

Measure them separately (and you don't need the jumper).

Just make sure that you have B+ on terminal one, and that terminal 2 gets a ground when in park or neutral.

 

So your saying get rid of the jumper that i had on term. 6 & 7, The just place the positive probe of the meter in term. 1? where do i place the negative probe of the meter?

 

Yep, the jumper is useless for testing this. It can stay or go, doesn't really matter.

For testing for the B+ at terminal 1, the other probe can go to anything that's grounded. Might as well go directly at the battery.

For checking ground on terminal 2, either set the meter to check for continuity/resistance and keep the other probe on the negative battery terminal, or you could set it to regular DC and place the other probe on the positive battery terminal.

 

I'll have to check it tomorrow but what is starting to sound like the issue?

 

At this point the only likely issues are a connector, some wiring, the inhibitor switch, or possibly the relay (unlikely).

With the readings you get from the above testing, it'll be much easier to narrow it down.

 

Cool, I guess tomorrow morning ill go out and get some readings based on your directions above....

 

With regard to the bad rattling sound coming from my engine bay, I'm having the car towed to a free garage in the apartment complex I live in. That way I can, hopefully, take my time and complete the repair or engine swap in said garage. Thanks pmohr for the instructions on how to check codes as well as the CEL decoder. Although, I'm not 100% sure but I don't think I have any CEL showing up. I heard somewhere that a common problem with this car is the camshaft position sensor, code 0101, which would make me very happy if that's all that needs to be done. Wishful thinking, I know. So, I'll post my results on Monday whether I get any codes or not. If not I may take a video with the sound the engine is making and post it for some other suggestions. Lastly, I'll take your advice and prod around with a makeshift stethoscope. I just don't get how one minute the car is coasting along a flat road at 60 miles an hour to having some kind of engine failure, rod bearing or tensioner or otherwise, the next minute. Although I did run over something

 

FWIW no electronic sensor will cause any sort of rattling like you're experiencing.

A video clip would be helpful.

 

Getting ready to go out and get the readings but had a quick question. Would an OBD scan help locate the issue? I ask because i have access to a Innova OBD II 3110?

 

UPDATE: I went out to start getting some readings and went over each connector to make sure that nothing looked out of place and noticed that their was a connector that wasn't plugged in all the way. Plugged it all the way in, reinstalled the relay hit, hit the ignition and she starts fine now. Not sure exactly how it got unplugged unless bumped it when removing the starter but as of now everything is working as it should. Boy was i in need of a starter though. Not that the car has starting issues before this issue came up but man does she start quick now... Thanks for all your help, i would have been trouble shooting this for a while...

 

Large 2 pin gray connector? That's for the P/N switch, explains why manually jumping the circuit worked; the switch wasn't triggering the relay.

 

Hey guys,

I know that the KS has been discussed in hundreds of threads before, but I have yet to find a thread that discusses the generic/eBay KS sensors.

I just ordered one from eBay for $30 shipped to see whether it would work. If it does, great. If not, then I lost $30.

Also, I was wondering what the difference between the generic sensors and the OEM sensors was, aside from the missing Nissan logo and a piece of mind knowing that it came from Nissan.

Thanks in advance!

 

its was the 2 pin Grey connector mounted upright beside some other connectors just to the bottom left of the back of the starter.

 

All of the ones I've seen on eBay for ~$60 shipped have been OEM parts, still in the OEM boxes. Not sure about the cheaper ones.

It'll most likely be just fine. Just liken it to using any other aftermarket OEM replacement part for the car (coils, MAF, PCV valve, etc).

 

cleaned it today and took it on about a 1 hour or so drive down back roads and it pulls harder now. ordered the ks and its suppose to be here tomorrow so i'll probably put it on then

 

Max wont start. Changed the Starter and Batt. Worked for 2 weeks then one day it just clicked. Towed it home, pulled the starter and took it to autozone thinking ill get a new working one.. well we tested it and it works. I Searched the forums and all i found was someone who says it turns over but wont fire. Close to mine but off a bit- Is getting the ECU reporgramed practiucal?

I don't know what to do i hate electrical.

 

Considering we don't even know what year car you have, auto or 5MT, etc, diagnosis will be a bit harder.

I'm ***uming this is the '97 auto that you bought for $10? A GLE, I guess (given that you said it's a 'higher model' and it's got leather).

Had any other issues since you bought it in August, or did your friend have any issues with it?

So the solenoid on the starter just clicks? Or is it something else clicking?

Have you put the starter back in yet and checked the connections?

Tested to make sure you have power at the B+ cable to the starter, and B+ on the signal line when turning the key to start?

Tried starting the car in anything other than Park or Neutral?

 

I apologize. ITs a 98 Auto. dont know the model but it has sunroof power everything bose fog lamps spoiler etc. I tried starting it in every gear and with the brake on. security sys is off im sure cause i unlocked with fob. I had a mechanic friend go over the system with me again and its all hooked up fine. the click is in the engine bay, the same click i had when my starter died the first time. im going to have the car towed home sometime this week and go through the circuit and check what is to be where..

Like i said earlier, i read about reprogramming the ECU?

 

The ECU has nothing to do with the starting circuit itself.

So the click is coming from the solenoid, then? Or is it a click like it's pushing out against the flywheel, but it can't crank the engine?

Have you tried jumping the starter manually to see if it'll work then? Tested for power?

Without having the car available for diagnostics, talking about it is really pointless. It could be quite a few things.

 

Right i understand. i tried jumping the starter too and nothing. i dont believe its a click against the flywheel, its too soft. i don't know whats going on. the batt is fresh and high cranking amps. When the car is back in my possession i will run some tests. thanks man, im glad your available to help-sounds like you know what you are doing =]

 

I don't know how the f*** to write stuff or find things that I wanna actually know but I was wondering.... Does changing the color of your spedometer lights require alot of work/time and energy? I hate the dim green, I want to change it to a neon blue. PM if you could help me out.

 

Back to the rattling engine sound on my 98 Maxima with 180,000 miles, here is a video clip I took tonight:
http://s262.photobucket.com/albums/i...aatstartup.flv

What is the consensus? Is it most likely timing chain rattle? If it still isn't clear from the video is there an easy way to determine if the noise is in fact due to the timing chain tensioner, aside from just replacing it? I have the instructions on how to replace the tensioner without having to pull the whole cover off so I'm prepared to do that if it seems to be the problem.

I also pulled codes, I got the following:
0608 - Cylinder No. 1 misfires (many possible causes listed but I wouldn't be surprised if one of my injectors went bad as 1 or more of them have been making more and more noise over time)
0304 - Knock Sensor; an excessively low or high voltage from knock sensor is entered to ECM; possible causes include short in Harness or Connectors or a bad Knock Sensor. Since this can be due to vibration to the block I should point out there was a big jolt to the chassis when I ran over a piece of wood shortly before I began having these problems.

I got these by using the self-diagnosis and then entering them into pmohr's CEL decoder:
http://boredmder.com/ecucodes/index.php

 

If got a 97 se.. yesterday it started studdering at a stop. I was really worried because it feels almost like rod knock.. Knocking sound every couple seconds. So i put the car in park to go listen to the motor but then i hear nothing.. noticed it only happens while in drive.. so im thinking its gotta be tranny related. Really only happends at stop or low speeds, once im going it drives normally. car is auto and sometimes feels like it makes hard shifts.Also my over drive light blinks every once in awhile on start up. any ideas? input appreciated

 

Did you even read the stickies?

http://www.geocities.com/amixam69/nissan/dash/

Also, search:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ghts-blue.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...e-condoms.html
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...er-lights.html

Doesn't sound to me like timing chain slap, sounds like a foreign or loose object rattling around in there somewhere. Then again, without being there in person, can't really tell for sure.

Really the ECU will only recognize knock if it's at one of the specific frequencies programmed in to the ECU, for spark knock.

Well, have you not checked the trans codes? The light is blinking for a reason.

By 'stuttering' do you mean as in a misfire? Have you tried narrowing down the source of the sound?

No codes?

 

Yes, this is another gas mileage question, but bear with me. I have read the gas mileage post in the "MAINTENANCE and MECHANICAL" sticky and addressed everything in the checklist. I've also searched extensively, but haven't found anything analogous to my situation.

Problem summary: After changing my spark plugs, I have seen a dramatic reduction in gas mileage of around 25%. The car in question is a '98 GLE with 182K miles.

Details:
Several months ago, I changed the spark plugs from Bosch Platinums to Denso Iridiums. (Not because I was having any problems, but just because the Bosch's had around 80K on them.) Immediately after changing the plugs, my gas mileage went down. I ran through several tanks of gas to make sure it wasn't a fluke. I did not notice any change in performance and got no CEL to suggest a misfire.

I put the old Bosch plugs back in and my mileage immediately returned to normal.

A few months go by and I decided to try again. This time, I used the recommended NGK G-Power Platinums. Gas mileage, again, went right down the tubes.

Finally, I put a scanner on it and got the P0325 Knock Sensor code, so I replaced that. There are now no codes, but the mileage is still terrible.

I also recently cleaned the throttle body, changed the PCV valve, and replaced the air and fuel filters. Tire pressure was checked and adjusted to 29 psi.

I'm running out of ideas. Why would two different sets of new plugs cause a decrease in gas mileage? My only theory is that the new plugs are running hotter causing the knock sensor to retard the timing, but, as I mentioned, I haven't seen any decrease in performance.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks in advance!

 

I need to know what light bulbs gos in the dome light, and the doors?
I want to replace them with a green one.

 

Also does any one know were to get those bulbs at?

 

I have a 99 maxima se and i am looking for a exhaust. Does anyone have any ideas?

 

Cattman headers - Cattman B - A33 rear section.

 

Stickies much?

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...und-clips.html

Google the bulb numbers. Check eBay.

Dome light should be DE3175 and 194s in the doors, IIRC. Although, you could always search, right?

 

Interesting. Are you sure you're using the correct plugs? What's the part number on the NGKs you're using?

 

They are the BKR5EGP plugs.

Thank you for the response!

 

Would these to bulbs work?

http://www.ledlight.com/festoon-ultr...hes-43-mm.aspx

http://www.bonanzle.com/booths/whole..._10__14V___27A

 

Its for the dome, and doors.

 

On my 95 maxima.

 

Not a very nice line for a very first post on the org.
There are a lot of people willing to help people with questions, even if it's been asked a hundred times or that you are a noob! But you are going to have trouble, if you can't take the time to try and help yourself.
First off: next time you click into the 4th generation Maxima (1995-1999), scroll down the page and look for "4th generation Maxima FAQ'S: READ ME READ ME!. Click into the page then right off the bat you will see "Link to 4th Gen How-To Summary." This is a very nice to place to start for all NOOB'S.
Hope this helps you out, and welcome to the Org.

I am very surprise that pmohr even answered your question! I was expecting this out of him

 

has anybody changed their knock sensor without taking the IM off? i tried to do it today but my hands are too damn big to fit in that tiny hole. and i read on here that it only takes like 20-30 minutes to change out

 

Seriously?

Did you not search at all?

Or even read the damn stickies?

Seriously. READ THE STICKIES BEFORE YOU ASK A QUESTION.

http://forums.maxima.org/1887038-post30.html
http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/507