My exhaust is really rusted, so I'm slowly replacing it. So far I have a warpspeed stainless y pipe with an otherwise stock exhaust. I'm not looking for any performance parts really, just stainless steel. Is there any place I can buy just a stainless steel resonator with the correct exhaust piping and flanges already welded on, so I can just bolt it in?

The the piping welded to the resonator is seriously rusted and cracked in places, including the flange where it bolts to the cat; so I'd like to replace it with a stainless steel piece. I have a 1996 maxima GLE. It seems like aftermarket parts are really hard to come by for this car (compared to my mustang anyways).

 

So you're just looking for a B-pipe, then? While you're at it you might as well do the entire catback, the rear section is likely just as rusty.

If you're looking for an OEM replacement, you can order it at most any exhaust shop, as well as some auto parts stores.

...or: http://tinyurl.com/c357z6

Note, though, that aftermarket systems are likely to be about the same price or cheaper than OEM replacement parts.

 

Ugh, what's the best way to remove a rusted bolt?

evap canister vent control valve is connected by 2 bolts. I got one out, but I'm not sure what's up with the other one. I can turn it, but it doesn't come out...I'm assuming that the head broke off? Does that sound right?

If so, how do I get it out now? There's not much room there.

 

If the head broke off, it would've physically broken off; no longer attached to the read of the bolt.

If you can turn it and it doesn't go in or out, the threads are likely messed up.

If it's out far enough, you can try prying it upwards while turning it, see if that helps.

What are they threaded into, plastic or metal?

 

They were threaded into metal. Yeah I'm confused as to why it turns, goes nowhere, but the head isn't broken off.

 

When I drive, accelerating very slowly, I notice the 3rd to 4th shift doesn't act the exact same everytime.

On normal from the red light accel., it shifts normal. But when I accel. very slowly, and that 3rd to 4th shift happens, feels like the torque converter is slow to engage.

Well, I notice things in detail, and I watch the rpm guage going down the road. As I watch it accel up the rpm band slowly(driving slow), I see just before the gear shifting(any gear), the rpms drift back down ever so slightly, then back up, then the shift.

Also going up a steep hill, say in 3rd, Ive noticed it do this same thing. It's very miniscule to notice, but it's there.

I haven't seen this before in the camry v6 I use to own, which is why I ask if this is normal?

btw, couple weeks ago, I went on a small trip on the interstate and avg'd 30.9mpg.

Car has 113k on it.

Robert

 

Oh, and on a side note:

I noticed that my idle over the winter has gotten messed up. Sometimes the idle is fine, between 500-600. Then sometimes I start it up and it stays at 500 and dips below it when I put it into gear, especially if I put it into reverse, then it's down to about 400.

Is this just my IACV acting up because I need to clean it? Or is there another issue I should be looking at?

 

i'm gonna clean the tb/iacv this weekend. just found out the car only cuts off when the a/c is off. when i cut it on the car runs fine

 

took this vid of my car the other night

the only time i hit the gas is when it got up over 2k rpms and to get it started one time. sorry no sound

 

I got a 98 Maxima SE recently and am completely in love with the car. Few things I want to improve. It feels like im changing gears in a 80's school bus, thinking about installing a short shifter. Also would like to get more power out the engine, looked at intakes, looked at chips, What is the best route to take?

Thanks Dudes

 

I have no issue with aftermarket pieces, I just don't want to spend a ton of money, though I'd like a stainless steel piece. The car sees lots of snow and road salt (its my winter dd).

So there's nowhere I can get a stainless steel resonator with the correct piping and flanges already welded on, so it just bolts in? I've found the ss resonators, but none with the correct pipes/flanges included.

 

Again, if you're looking for the entire B-pipe, yes, you can get it. Check the aftermarket, but likely none of them will sell individual pipes, just the whole catback.

First, that color is just annoying on a dark background.

Second, did you not search in the least bit?

Intakes, start here: http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?searchid=405045

There are no 'chips' for the A32. If you're looking to modify the ECU, the only things available now are JWT and TS modified ECUs. And those are no longer made, so it's a crapshoot.

For a short shifter, go with a B&M or similar.

Search, read around, search some more. That's where you're going to get 99% of your answers.

With idle issues, the first step I'd do is always clean the IACV.

Any codes?

Without sound or an explanation, who knows what's going on there. Can't hear if you're trying to rev it, or not cranking long enough, or what.

 

I am new here, I come from evo forum, I drive 05 MR, but I also have a 95 max with cyl 4 miss fire. replaced the coil pack and plugs, problem still there, I am guessing next it's prob injector? 2 yrs ago, I had to replace the injector #2 due to the same issue. help please

 

Get a race coming up with a honda civic hatchback.
Need some more speed, need as many ideas as you can give me.

I have a 95 maxima, with a 3.0 motor swap to a 3.5.

What do you guys thought?

 

Seriously?

Post your street racing crap elsewhere.

And assuming you're not referring to street racing, without any given indication of how 'fast' this hatch is, a VQ35 swap is already well beyond their territory.

Besides, if you have a VQ35 swap, you should already be well versed in power modifications...

 

Have you tested the injector yet? That is most likely your problem.

 

wow, i should of checked my spelling. lol

 

I got a 98 Maxima SE recently and am completely in love with the car. Few things I want to improve. It feels like im changing gears in a 80's school bus, thinking about installing a short shifter. Also would like to get more power out the engine, looked at intakes, looked at chips, What is the best route to take?

Thanks Dudes

 

Any reason you posted this twice? And it was responded to above, as well.

 

Hi all, the other day i started noticing that my starter seemed to sound as if a bearing or something was going out and eventually the car didn't start one day. In desperation we tapped on the starter, seen a spark at the positive lugs on the starter and a friend was able to start the car. and got it home and it didn't start again. Today i buy a duralast starter from auto zone and install it and the car does nothing. I dont even hear a clip even though my battery is good. any suggestions as to what to check would be great.

 

Well the first thing to check would be the connections to the starter, did you check that?

All other power accessories work, correct?

Have you tried starting in anything other than Park or Neutral (if auto), bypassing the clutch switch (if 5MT)?

 

Yes checked the connection to the starter and they were actually really clean and free of any rust or corrosion but i emery clothed the terminal to make sure their was a good connection. The car has a Auto trans but will not start in any other gear. Checked all fuses in fuse panel under hood latch release and in front and beside battery and all of them are fine. When i trun the key i can hear what im guessing to be a relay under the dash as well as one the box in front of the battery. I can also hear something over to the left side of the engine either on top of the upper intake of over near the drive belts however the starter makes no noise what so ever. All other accessories work.

 

The left side of the engine is where the TB is, not the belts

Well actually, the left side of the engine is bank 2, but I digress...

Have you tested for power at the starter? Tried to jump it manually to make sure it even works (or did you have it bench tested at the auto parts store)?

 

By "jump it manually" im assuming by placing a jumper to both lugs on the starter?

 

I mean crossing the B+ lug with the signal wire (single wire connection, terminates at a solder joint at the solenoid). Or just plain jumping B+ to the signal wire, should crank up then.

 

OK as im sure you know their are 2 lug which have threads with nuts and a wire which is soldered on which plugs in. I did use a screw driver to touch both lugs which have threads with nuts and the starter turn but doesn't turn the engine.....

 

Indeed, that's the point of the other wire; you have to have B+ to that to kick the gear out.

 

so where or what should i test at this point?

 

Start working your way back. Next thing I'd do is jump the inhibitor relay, it's in the relay box in front of the battery.

 

what is that? which one is it? and how do jump it?

 

A relay that inhibits the car from starting, unless it's in Park/Neutral.

It's the one labeled...inhibit.



Top row, second from left.

You need to put a jumper wire across terminals 6 and 7. They're marked on the bottom of the relay.

 

Ok didn't expect a pic but happy you posted it. Ok i have the relay in hand and see terminal 6 & 7 as indicated on bottom. So i need to connect a jumper to 6 & 7 and then do what, Plug it back in or jump 1, 2 , 3 4 to the respective female terminals in the socket from which the relay was located?

 

You could, but that would be rather ungainly.

Just jump a small section of wire across the sockets for terminals 6 and 7.

Then, try to crank the car. If it works then, either the relay is bad or you're having an issue with the P/N switch.

 

So your saying to just jump 6 & 7 in the socket terminals with the relay not even needed?

 

Correct.

 

The absolute craziest thing just happened when i tried that.............. My car actually started!... Man you just saved me a huge headache so for that thanks a bunch.... Im assuming i can pick this relay up at about any autoparts store? Any idea as to round of about what these relays cost?

 

Generally speaking, the relays are reliable as hell, so I'm doubting it's the relay for now.

You can give it a quick test with a multimeter, two short pieces of wire, and the battery.

Quick check, though; check the ENG CONT fuse in the interior fuse box. It's in the IGN box, bottom of the middle row:

 

So even though my car DID start you doubt its the relay?

 

Indeed, it's more likely the circuit that trips the relay.

 

Checked the 6th fuse up in the middle row (10A) and its not blown. Im not sure i understand why jumping terminal 6 & 7 would start the engine but the relay possibly isn't bad?