Thanks Cashoit. Is it by any chance connected to the EGR valve? I tried racing it back but couldnt see where it went to.
Im also having problems with the EGR. I have the P0400 error. i already disconnected the egr tube and cleaned it out but the error came back. Im thinking maybe the hose was related to the problem. I may have to replace the entire EGR valve itself.

 

It has NOTHING to do with EGR. That hose is for the MAP/BARO switch. Its supposed to left open like that.

Sometimes cleaning the EGR valve dont help. Jus need to replace it. Dont forget to check the harnesses and ALL hoses.

 

That's actually a trans vent tube, but as said it's to be left open to the atmosphere.

 

I passed and everythihng, However the guy doing the testing was being a *****. He didn t want to pass unless he could fix certain "problems". I told I would come back tomorrow. He said I had a dirty air filter and thats linked to my spark plugs being dirty and not going to funtion 100%.

is this true? or was this just B.S. to try and get me to change my plugs?
I admit the filter was dirty so i went and changed it, but is this really linked to plugs?

 

I might change the belts this weekend. what brand of belts do you guys suggest?

Or should I go to the dealer?

 

Anyone?

 

It is theoretically true. If the air filter is plugged, the engine gets less air and runs richer and the plugs can become coated with carbon.

But 2 things - the air filter has to be really, really plugged up for this to happen. And secondly, the car can't be newer than 1985 to 1990. Anything newer will have an ECU that monitors the exhaust (via the O2 sensors) to see if the fuel mixture is too rich and then adjust the amount of gas the fuel injectors are sending into the cylinders.

This guy sounds like an old gray haired dinosaur from the days of carburetors. But he's got you between a rock and a hard spot. He's already got some of your money and he's trying to get more. Ask him how much it would cost for him to supposedly fix the car so it passes. I bet he'll say something close to $200. Then bite the bullet and take the car somewhere else and consider it a lesson learned.

 

Thanks!

I am going to change drive belts in about two weeks seeing that I have never changed them, and this car has 106k miles on it.

What brand would you suggest?

 

Thanks for the tip! Tried it last night, and it didn't help though. I was hopeful, b/c we can hear a clicking sound from that area right before everything cuts out. I also learned that jiggling the key will sometimes turn everything back on. Is there a similar switch/connection in the steering column?

 

Just saw your original post and would say the ignition switch is starting to wear out, and now that you say jiggling the key helps, that's really the only thing it can be.


Switches can be had for under $30 most everywhere. Cheapest place I've actually found to get them is the dealer.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ykT9uCJXSY

 

Have u tried cleaning TB and MAF. Tune up?

 

I don't really have a preference on this. There are a lot of good brands of belts out there. Because I won't say that you have to get the Nissan belt, that everything else is garbage, sometimes I get grief and misery from others. Go to your local parts store and you will get a decent belt. Just don't buy some cheap $10 dollar pos off of e-bay.

 

I did clean TB (with spray can & rag) when I did a intake cleaning with the BG cleaner. Spark plugs looked good to me.

I'll try the MAF.

At one point I thought a injector or more could be going south as the intake cleaning with seafoam added to tank did help it run better but that was about 9 or 10 mo. ago.

 

Perhaps someone is interested in a link for A32 Tuning from Japan...
Get it from a friend who lives in Japan...

http://model.auto-style.jp/a32/

 

i know im not a newb here but quick question.. will a 98 or 99 gauge cluster fit plug and play in a 97 ? and if so are there anydifferences in the 97 and 98 besides the digital odometer?

 

i would personally suggest gates belts.. or if you can find a store that carries them... gator belts are a lil more expensive but well worth it in the long run

 

No.

Differences in what, the cluster, or the car? Cluster no, not really. The car, yes.

 

whats so different about the 98/99 car i thought that the only differences in the cars were the packages

 

try here

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

 

The first, most obvious thing is that the '99 is the only year to have an SE-L trim, with a unique color, as well as NATS and an EGR stepper motor.

If you search, there have been many threads detailing the differences in the model years.

 

but wouldnt that be a 99.5 instead of a 99?

 

btw after looking at a few threads about lug studs i decided to go look at mine.. lets put it this way... i replaced 4 just on the front

 

the price difference between aftermaket and oem parts on belts is relitively small, so id recommend oem. if you want to go aftermarket i would say dayco and gatorback are reasonable in price and reliability

 

if this isnt working, here is link to printout pic

http://forums.maxima.org/album.php?a...ictureid=27477

is telling me that my passenger front is cocked out alot,
and i need to fix some stuff, or find the bent, or worn
componets correct?

Help

 

RF caster is out a bit from perfect, but still well within factory specs (2-3.5 deg).

Have the front toe set, see how it drives. If there's an abnormal pull on a straight and level road, then I might look further into why the caster and camber are a bit out.

Have you checked out the front suspension/steering components? If your toe is out that badly, there is very likely something that needs attention prior to an alignment.

 

FYI it pulls to the right bad, alot better with new tires, but am suspecting this car hit something either something big or while moving fast. the driver side stabilizer bar frame mount bracket was literally ripped open, replaced that, but still getting the right pull and serious front end vibration at higher speeds ?

edit, last week the driver side (mostly) strut is nice and squeaky ready to be replaced, passenger as well - not near as loud, noticeable as pass.

 

As it is, I wouldn't imagine it would drive anywhere near straight.

Again, checked out the front end? Get it aligned (after replacing whatever worn components are found), see how it drives then.

 

thanks. will investigate further. i know i probably just need to replace the
leaky steering rack, get my new control arms/balljoints on there then get it aligned.. will check back

thanks again pmohr

 

Hello all. i have a 98 gxe 5 speed with 133k on it .i bought it 3 years ago with 113k. The air bag light is flashing since i bought it, and the abs came on 3 months after . I've been to 3 different mechanics who tried to reset the computer and charged $ but the air bag light always comes back on , they keep saying there are no codes but can't find the problem . I asked one of the mechanics about the abs and his answer was to change the front sensors.

I went to the dealer/ stealer to get it checked out they charged 3 hrs labor and said i need 2 airbags $500 each and an abs computer $800. i just don't know if that's accurate, what i'm looking for is someone who can really troubleshoot and isolate the problem , not someone who is just changes things untill they get it right . Any recommendations will be helpfull, i'm not looking for any thing free . I just need a good mechanic who knows what they are doing and not trying to rip off people. I'm in Brooklyn, NY. Thanks.

 

There is a self diagnostic in the FSM that you can run. It starts on page 38 of the RS (Restraint System) section. I never read anything about a reset proceedure. It sounds like you replace the bad part and the light goes off. There aren't a lot of parts - the air bag itself, the sensor/control unit under the console and the wiring in between.

If the car has side air bags, then you have 2 more air bags, a supplemental sensor/control unit and the main sensor/control unit and the wiring.

If you need a service manual -

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/

and click on the year desired.
The file named fwd.pdf is the "cover page" file, the starting point.
The file named idx.pdf is the alphabetical index file.

 

When I was dropped the pan on the transmission to clean it and do an oil change, I also wanted to change the strainer. I could get the bolts out OK, but when I tried to loosen the nut (in the middle) the bolt it's on turned and the nut didn't loosen. Any suggestions? It looks like you would have to pull the whole valve body to get at the other side of this bolt to hold it.

 

I just bought my 98 from my sister who was getting rid of it bc she thought it was shot. The engine runs fine at idle and normal driving speeds, but tends to shake and seems a little weak under heavy acceleration. The check engine light comes and goes. I had an avalon a few yrs ago that did the same thing and turned out to be the ignition coils. Ijust stumbled across this awesome site today and ask the experts (you), opinion? Does that sound pretty cut and dry, or is there tons of other things it could be?

 

As said, do the diag listed in the FSM. It's likely related to the side airbags, they had some problems in '98 with wiring harnesses that were too short.

If you go into diag mode then turn the key off, it should clear the SRS codes.

The easiest way I've found to get that off then back on is with an impact to 'shock' it loose. Otherwise, you could use vice grips on the tip of the bolt and a wrench on the nut, or just drop the valve body (which doesn't take but a few minutes longer at that point).

It could be quite a number of things, including coils. Have you not checked the codes yet?

 

Thanks for the quick replies! While you're answering all our "newbie" questions, what's the deal with the valves on these cars? I'm used to working on motorcycles and usually the bucket and shims like these cars have need frequent checking. All I could find was to check them if they get noisy and no one devotes much time talking about this. (The bike sites spend a lot of time on this subject.) Should I check 'em or just not worry about them till I get some valve clatter?

 

Ok, so its an automatic thing. No screws to turn like an ECU.

 

No need, really. Even the FSM indicates there's no inspection interval, the only time to check them is if you suspect an issue.

They're a bit of a pain to check (removing the upper intake), and setting the lash requires special tools to press and hold the valve down to replace the shim, as otherwise you'd have to remove the front timing cover to remove the cams to do it.

Indeed, no need to so much as get out of the driver's seat to reset them.

I've always meant to wire up a switch/potentiometer (depending on how the ECU screw works) somewhere on the dash to permit much easier checking of the ECU codes, still have yet to get around to it...

 

I have a 1997 Maxima. When I first got it, I had to change out the starter and get a new ignition. Now, when my car is idle/at red or stop sign, it will randomly shut off. The RPMs drop from 1000 to 500 then the car just cuts off. Black smoke will come from the muffler and I can here a knocking. I assumed the knocking is ks/O2 sensor. The car is burning a huge and I mean a huge amount of gas. When I drive on the highway, sometimes the car jerks and act likes it wants to turn off on me. Usually, it will shut off after exiting the highway. Do anyone know what's wrong?

 

Sounds like an air issue to me. Do u have any codes or is the CEL (check engine Light) on? Check these at autozone.

U should start by cleaning your throttle body, MAF, and IACV per how tos.

U prolly need a tune up real bad. Replace PCV, ECTS, spark plugs, and air filter. Throw some chevron techron in the fuel tank.

 

Check engine light on?

Running very rich, stalling, first place I'd look is the ECTS.

 

So, I went to Autozone. The codes I received were P0130 AND P0325. Thanks again for responding. I have recently changed my spark plugs and air filters. I cleaned the MAF sensor recently as well.