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Old 05-17-2009 | 05:42 PM
  #3601  
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1995 Maxima No Spark

I picked up a non-running 95 Maxima w/auto. I had to replace the ignition cyl because the keys wouldn't turn. Now I have the ignition replaced, but the car won't start. It just turns over and I pulled a coil and it won't spark when I crank the engine.
Old 05-17-2009 | 06:04 PM
  #3602  
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Originally Posted by chadzeilenga
I picked up a non-running 95 Maxima w/auto. I had to replace the ignition cyl because the keys wouldn't turn. Now I have the ignition replaced, but the car won't start. It just turns over and I pulled a coil and it won't spark when I crank the engine.
Shall we assume that you've done the basics like checking all of the fuses, made sure the ECU has power?

Checked for codes?
Old 05-17-2009 | 06:15 PM
  #3603  
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SOME HELP & ADVICE NEEDED!!!

I currently have a 96 SE...I have the stock honeycomb 16in wheels and all stock suspension and whatever shocks/struts/coils it came with etc...

I want to purchase the MOMO GT-Rs 19in wheels and the vredestein sessanta tires in 225/35/19x8 or 235/35/19x9

bolt pattern is 5x114.3 and offset is 38

What adjustments will I have to make to the suspension and stuff?

Thanks Guys

Last edited by C1imax; 05-17-2009 at 08:29 PM.
Old 05-17-2009 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by C1imax
SOME HELP & ADVICE NEEDED!!!

I currently have a 96 SE...I have the stock honeycomb 16in wheels and all stock suspension and whatever shocks/struts/coils it came with etc...

I want to purchase the MOMO GT-Rs 19in wheels and the vredestein sessanta tires in 225/35/19x8 and 235/35/19x9...possibly the staggered look with 8in in the front and 9in in the rear...

What adjustments will I have to make to the suspension and stuff?

Thanks Guys
You are aware that running wider tires in the rear is pointless, right?

Without the offset of the rims, can't say much.

Have you look through the appropriate subforum for wheel/tire fitment?
Old 05-17-2009 | 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
You are aware that running wider tires in the rear is pointless, right?

Without the offset of the rims, can't say much.

Have you look through the appropriate subforum for wheel/tire fitment?

Im not the sharpest tool in the shed when it comes to customizing cars so excuse my incompetence…I just want to know if I should OR need to get new shocks/coils etc…and no I haven’t checked the sub forum its so intimidating with the facts and diagrams and stuff…thanks thought
Old 05-17-2009 | 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by C1imax
Im not the sharpest tool in the shed when it comes to customizing cars so excuse my incompetence…I just want to know if I should OR need to get new shocks/coils etc…and no I haven’t checked the sub forum its so intimidating with the facts and diagrams and stuff…thanks thought
Well if your suspension is old and worn out, you should consider replacing the struts regardless.

If you haven't checked out the subforum, do so. All you need to do is search...
Old 05-17-2009 | 06:36 PM
  #3607  
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Originally Posted by pmohr
Well if your suspension is old and worn out, you should consider replacing the struts regardless.

If you haven't checked out the subforum, do so. All you need to do is search...
Ok thanks for the feedback pmohr you are a scholar and a gentlemen...

Would you suggest I search in...

Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and Braking

OR

Tires and Wheels

Since you have 10k posts I figure you would be my light at the end of the tunnel...haha
Old 05-17-2009 | 07:09 PM
  #3608  
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Originally Posted by pmohr
Shall we assume that you've done the basics like checking all of the fuses, made sure the ECU has power?

Checked for codes?
I looked thru and didn't see any of the fuses being burned out. How do I check to see that the ECU has power?

The car will crank & crank, but not very fast. I'm thinking it's the CKPS, but don't know where it's located?
Old 05-17-2009 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by chadzeilenga
I looked thru and didn't see any of the fuses being burned out. How do I check to see that the ECU has power?

The car will crank & crank, but not very fast. I'm thinking it's the CKPS, but don't know where it's located?
The CEL will come on with the key in ON.

Again, have you checked the codes?

What makes you think it's one of the CKPS'? Which one?
Old 05-17-2009 | 07:11 PM
  #3610  
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Originally Posted by C1imax
Ok thanks for the feedback pmohr you are a scholar and a gentlemen...

Would you suggest I search in...

Advanced Suspension, Chassis, and Braking

OR

Tires and Wheels

Since you have 10k posts I figure you would be my light at the end of the tunnel...haha
Well you're looking for wheel/tire fitment, correct?

In that case, logically, you'd be looking in the wheels and tires subforum.
Old 05-17-2009 | 07:45 PM
  #3611  
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Originally Posted by pmohr
The CEL will come on with the key in ON.

Again, have you checked the codes?
I'll borrow a code scanner and check them out tomorrow.

What makes you think it's one of the CKPS'? Which one?
I'm just assuming based on what I've read so far from the forums. I pulled the one on the front bottom of engine mounted on trans and it was dirty/metal filings on it. What resistance value should it be in?
Old 05-17-2009 | 07:47 PM
  #3612  
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Originally Posted by chadzeilenga
I'm just assuming based on what I've read so far from the forums. I pulled the one on the front bottom of engine mounted on trans and it was dirty/metal filings on it. What resistance value should it be in?
The specs can be found in the '95 FSM, EC-222.

Again, have you checked for codes?
Old 05-17-2009 | 08:17 PM
  #3613  
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Originally Posted by pmohr

Without the offset of the rims, can't say much.
bolt pattern is 5x114.3 and offset is 38...does that help to give any more feedback??
Old 05-17-2009 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by C1imax
bolt pattern is 5x114.3 and offset is 38...does that help to give any more feedback??
Have you looked through the forum yet?

Look through here - http://forums.maxima.org/tires-wheel...-will-fit.html

And then the last post in this thread - http://forums.maxima.org/tires-wheel...8-5-wheel.html

Fitment in the A33B should be close to the A32.

In short, if you look through that subforum and search...you'll find your answer.

And I'd hope the bolt pattern is 5x4.5, or you wouldn't even be able to mount the wheels...
Old 05-17-2009 | 09:39 PM
  #3615  
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Originally Posted by pmohr
The specs can be found in the '95 FSM, EC-222.

Again, have you checked for codes?

Don't have access to code scanner until tomorrow. I've cranked the engine over and don't have spark. Plenty of fuel as plugs are wet. Good compression (150psi). Does seem to crank very slow though. I checked for the grounds and all seem to be in place.

The CKPS under crank pulley was in spec, have to check voltage of other one tomorrow. I'll know more once I get the codes scanned.
Old 05-17-2009 | 09:41 PM
  #3616  
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Originally Posted by chadzeilenga
Don't have access to code scanner until tomorrow. I've cranked the engine over and don't have spark. Plenty of fuel as plugs are wet. Good compression (150psi). Does seem to crank very slow though. I checked for the grounds and all seem to be in place.

The CKPS under crank pulley was in spec, have to check voltage of other one tomorrow. I'll know more once I get the codes scanned.
Why not just check the codes yourself? It only takes a minute or so to do.
Old 05-17-2009 | 10:01 PM
  #3617  
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Checking Codes

I didn't know I could check them manually. I'll look up how to do that tomorrow and give it a try.
Old 05-18-2009 | 12:53 AM
  #3618  
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Originally Posted by chadzeilenga
I didn't know I could check them manually. I'll look up how to do that tomorrow and give it a try.
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...first-cel.html
Old 05-18-2009 | 08:43 PM
  #3619  
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Thanks for the link. I pulled my codes & reset the ECM. I have a P0401 & P0407 code. The 0401 is for a Intake Air Temp Sensor which I think is part of the air cleaner assembly that is disconnected for me to access the starter. The other is for the CKPS (ref) sensor under the front crank. I pulled the sensor and wiped it clean and check the resistance and it checked out at 521 ohms.
Old 05-19-2009 | 07:56 AM
  #3620  
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Originally Posted by chadzeilenga
Thanks for the link. I pulled my codes & reset the ECM. I have a P0401 & P0407 code. The 0401 is for a Intake Air Temp Sensor which I think is part of the air cleaner assembly that is disconnected for me to access the starter. The other is for the CKPS (ref) sensor under the front crank. I pulled the sensor and wiped it clean and check the resistance and it checked out at 521 ohms.
Resistance should be 470 to 570 ohms at 68-degrees F.
According to my Haynes manual next check the wiring harness for a open circuit to the PCM (power control module) or a damaged harness. Check for continuity to ground on the black wire of the harness connector. (This is what was wrong with my car) If things check out it says to have the PCM diagnosed. Hope this helps you out
Old 05-19-2009 | 03:48 PM
  #3621  
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Originally Posted by chadzeilenga
Thanks for the link. I pulled my codes & reset the ECM. I have a P0401 & P0407 code. The 0401 is for a Intake Air Temp Sensor which I think is part of the air cleaner assembly that is disconnected for me to access the starter. The other is for the CKPS (ref) sensor under the front crank. I pulled the sensor and wiped it clean and check the resistance and it checked out at 521 ohms.
Have you tried it again yet? Could just be debris on the CKPS'/CPS, causing bad readings.

They can test fine and still have issues. Check the harness, then I'd throw in a new one, they're relatively cheap.

FWIW the CKPS REF code can be caused by a slow or hard start.
Old 05-19-2009 | 05:52 PM
  #3622  
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Hey Pat,
Newbie here, dont know if im in the right thread or even if im doing the right thing. I have a few ques. I have a 99 5sp with a bad motor and im thinking about doin the 3.5 swap. I would like to put Jim Wolf cams in it as well. What else do i have to do with aftermarket cams to run the 3.5? do i use the 3.0 timing set on the motor? what engine managment should i get if any and if i do get say emanage can that be set to increase the rev limit as well? sorry about possible simple questions, any advice or pointing to a right thread is appretiated, thankss
Old 05-19-2009 | 10:54 PM
  #3623  
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Originally Posted by btuck2009
Hey Pat,
Newbie here, dont know if im in the right thread or even if im doing the right thing. I have a few ques. I have a 99 5sp with a bad motor and im thinking about doin the 3.5 swap. I would like to put Jim Wolf cams in it as well. What else do i have to do with aftermarket cams to run the 3.5? do i use the 3.0 timing set on the motor? what engine managment should i get if any and if i do get say emanage can that be set to increase the rev limit as well? sorry about possible simple questions, any advice or pointing to a right thread is appretiated, thankss
You don't have to do any mods to VQ35 cams to put them in a VQ35

Depends, do you want to use 3.0 timing?

You don't need any sort of tuning device. Highly recommended, but not required. Most members go with the EU, cheap, works well, and has lots of options. Yes, it can raise the rev limiter.

Search and ye shall find.
Old 05-20-2009 | 06:22 AM
  #3624  
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Getting spark, but still not running

Originally Posted by pmohr
Have you tried it again yet? Could just be debris on the CKPS'/CPS, causing bad readings.

They can test fine and still have issues. Check the harness, then I'd throw in a new one, they're relatively cheap.

FWIW the CKPS REF code can be caused by a slow or hard start.
I put the new starter (fried old one from so much cranking) and the CKPS (ref) on. The car cranks much better now, definitely not as slow as it was before and I'm getting a spark now as the engine will catch sometimes but will never fire up. I pulled the codes again and still have the P0401 Air Intake Temp Sensor, but I can't imagine that preventing it from starting.

It also sounds as if the engine is firing inside the crankcase. I'm thinking all of that unburnt fuel leaked past the rings and is sitting in the crankcase with a bunch of fumes?
Old 05-20-2009 | 11:36 AM
  #3625  
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Originally Posted by chadzeilenga
I put the new starter (fried old one from so much cranking) and the CKPS (ref) on. The car cranks much better now, definitely not as slow as it was before and I'm getting a spark now as the engine will catch sometimes but will never fire up. I pulled the codes again and still have the P0401 Air Intake Temp Sensor, but I can't imagine that preventing it from starting.

It also sounds as if the engine is firing inside the crankcase. I'm thinking all of that unburnt fuel leaked past the rings and is sitting in the crankcase with a bunch of fumes?
Try running a ground wire directly to the starter.

Did the PO mention if they did anything immediately prior to the car not starting? Trans service, perhaps?
Old 05-20-2009 | 01:26 PM
  #3626  
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GXE 97 Manual.
sometimes, once a week or so, when i start off after a stop. my tranny groans. its a very deep noise and sounds like 2 metal plates grinding. at least i think its my tranny because sometimes i dont have my brake on at stops so i know its not that. but i was wondering if this was a result of mechanical failure or my fluid needs changed or something. its very concerning.
more details. it happends only in first gear taking off to about 5-7mph. on all sorts of inclines. and no mods to tranny.
thanks
-brandon
Old 05-20-2009 | 05:36 PM
  #3627  
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Originally Posted by HandsonMaxima.
GXE 97 Manual.
sometimes, once a week or so, when i start off after a stop. my tranny groans. its a very deep noise and sounds like 2 metal plates grinding. at least i think its my tranny because sometimes i dont have my brake on at stops so i know its not that. but i was wondering if this was a result of mechanical failure or my fluid needs changed or something. its very concerning.
more details. it happends only in first gear taking off to about 5-7mph. on all sorts of inclines. and no mods to tranny.
thanks
-brandon
Your groaning noise that sounds like 'two metal plates grinding' is more than likely your 3 metal plates grinding; a clutch noise.

Is it still on the original clutch?
Old 05-20-2009 | 06:29 PM
  #3628  
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Originally Posted by pmohr
Try running a ground wire directly to the starter.

Did the PO mention if they did anything immediately prior to the car not starting? Trans service, perhaps?
You mean to ground the starter to one of the grounding wires or the neg battery? What would this do to help?

I haven't heard anything about the PO's work. I tried spraying a bit of starting fluid into the intake and starting it and it backfired out the intake. I checked the front 2 cams and both are rotating when the engine is cranked so it doesn't seem that the timing belt went out.
Old 05-20-2009 | 06:41 PM
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Originally Posted by chadzeilenga
You mean to ground the starter to one of the grounding wires or the neg battery? What would this do to help?

I haven't heard anything about the PO's work. I tried spraying a bit of starting fluid into the intake and starting it and it backfired out the intake. I checked the front 2 cams and both are rotating when the engine is cranked so it doesn't seem that the timing belt went out.
We have no timing belt.

You'd be surprised what a poor ground at the starter can cause, including extremely hard starts.
Old 05-20-2009 | 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
We have no timing belt.

You'd be surprised what a poor ground at the starter can cause, including extremely hard starts.

X2...after adding another ground from the 17mm starter mounting bolt to the neg. on the battery my car has never started better. i did that and cleaned the TB at the same time and its night and day.



i figured i wouldnt make a thread so here we go. i noticed that my trips (A,B) on my odometer were resetting after the key was turned off. every time i started the car they were at zero. i replaced the cluster with no difference, the trips still wont hold mileage. its a 98' BTW...what gives, thanks
Old 05-20-2009 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by QNO_A32
X2...after adding another ground from the 17mm starter mounting bolt to the neg. on the battery my car has never started better. i did that and cleaned the TB at the same time and its night and day.



i figured i wouldnt make a thread so here we go. i noticed that my trips (A,B) on my odometer were resetting after the key was turned off. every time i started the car they were at zero. i replaced the cluster with no difference, the trips still wont hold mileage. its a 98' BTW...what gives, thanks
Check the 'elec parts' fuse, top right of the fuse box. If that's good, I'd suspect a broken wire on the harness going to the back of the cluster.

It'll be pin 15 on the flat connector, wire color is Yellow with a Blue tracer. Check and make sure it's got B+ at all times.
Old 05-20-2009 | 08:43 PM
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ill check that fuse although im almost positive its good, i went through them all a couple days ago for something else. im guessing the flat connector on the back of the cluster youre talking about is the one in the middle. iirc the other two were more square...ill check that wire for battery power. thanks man
Old 05-21-2009 | 06:28 AM
  #3633  
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Originally Posted by pmohr
Your groaning noise that sounds like 'two metal plates grinding' is more than likely your 3 metal plates grinding; a clutch noise.

Is it still on the original clutch?
3 plates! be still my beating heart! hah. sorry I am very new to trannys.
if on the original clutch you mean is it stock/never replaced. then yes.

edit: post 15 i guess that means i am cool now.

Last edited by HandsonMaxima.; 05-21-2009 at 06:31 AM.
Old 05-21-2009 | 06:05 PM
  #3634  
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New bee question

Hi sorry to post here question?
I have no clue that i should post here.
I have 4th gen maxima Gle 1999. Problem is I got code 0104 ( VSS Mulfunction) I have read bunch of threads about this but dont find the answer i want. This happened 5 months before. Speedometer, gas level indicator, temp, and RPM was doing waggle sometime speedometer goes to 100 or sometime zero. was doning often. Than it stated doing when i go for long drive it runs for about 100-150 miles and does same thing. If i stop some ware for 2-3 hours and startback driving its starts normal than again after 100 miles same issue. Now my cruise control is not working. when i turn on switch for cruise control it turns on when i try to set up cruise on 60 mil/hr the cruise light next speedometer blinks it should be stay steady when set up but it blinks and cruise control doesn't work.
So I changed VSS by my self by looking guide on this site.
Do i have to go to Autozone to reset the code. it has been 30 miles the light is still on. will it go away itself.
about cruise control is it because of VSS ( vehicle Speed sensor)
will it fix automatically. or i have to do anything else
Old 05-21-2009 | 06:11 PM
  #3635  
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Originally Posted by ash0621
Hi sorry to post here question?
I have no clue that i should post here.
I have 4th gen maxima Gle 1999. Problem is I got code 0104 ( VSS Mulfunction) I have read bunch of threads about this but dont find the answer i want. This happened 5 months before. Speedometer, gas level indicator, temp, and RPM was doing waggle sometime speedometer goes to 100 or sometime zero. was doning often. Than it stated doing when i go for long drive it runs for about 100-150 miles and does same thing. If i stop some ware for 2-3 hours and startback driving its starts normal than again after 100 miles same issue. Now my cruise control is not working. when i turn on switch for cruise control it turns on when i try to set up cruise on 60 mil/hr the cruise light next speedometer blinks it should be stay steady when set up but it blinks and cruise control doesn't work.
So I changed VSS by my self by looking guide on this site.
Do i have to go to Autozone to reset the code. it has been 30 miles the light is still on. will it go away itself.
about cruise control is it because of VSS ( vehicle Speed sensor)
will it fix automatically. or i have to do anything else
You can reset the codes yourself, same as you can check them yourself. It's in the stickies.

If everything is freaking out on you, it's either the harness or a completely bad cluster itself, not individual sensors (unless you're extremely unlucky).
Old 05-21-2009 | 06:20 PM
  #3636  
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Originally Posted by pmohr
You can reset the codes yourself, same as you can check them yourself. It's in the stickies.

If everything is freaking out on you, it's either the harness or a completely bad cluster itself, not individual sensors (unless you're extremely unlucky).
It didn't freak so far after i change VSS. Only issue with cruise control.
Old 05-21-2009 | 07:17 PM
  #3637  
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Hey, anyone remember the resistance of the rear O2 sensor.. ?
Old 05-21-2009 | 07:27 PM
  #3638  
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Originally Posted by B_Eaze
Hey, anyone remember the resistance of the rear O2 sensor.. ?
For what, the heater?

All of the specs are in the FSM, under EC...
Old 05-21-2009 | 07:34 PM
  #3639  
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Originally Posted by pmohr
For what, the heater?

All of the specs are in the FSM, under EC...
during a snowstorm i ran a mound of snow in the middle of the road on a side street. the wire was hangin and scrapping the ground. I forgot about it and now I only have one side of the plug...

Need a new inspection sticker so gotta get rid of the code.

havent been able to put my car in the air cuz of school but I gotta go to radio shack anyway so ...
Old 05-22-2009 | 02:43 PM
  #3640  
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Here's a noob question, one I couldn't find in the FSM for my 96.

I'm going to be installing the LTB2 and need the torque specs on the four bolts that the LTB attaches to.

After searching, it seems like the LCA bolts are 87-108 ft-lbs, but I couldn't find the other set.

Here are the two bolts:
LCA bolt:


Other set behind the front tires.


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