NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
#3201
You keep saying to try to press the clutch pedal in, is it too stiff to actually do so? Does it not go all the way down?
A noise getting louder when clutched in is more than likely the TOB.
#3202
Drive shaft
I'm planning to replace my cv axle. I've ordered a EMPI shaft assembly that comes with a "Drive Axle Seal(J1152-84563)". Anybody knows if that is the same thing as the "differential oil seal" mentioned in the FSM FA-13 step 2?
Thank you
Thank you
#3203
A quick google shows it to most likely be the correct part.
Just hope they got you the right size if you're doing the driver's side.
#3204
Cone Air Filter Question?
I was told by a mechanic that it is not good to have a cone air filter on my 98 maxima. He told me that it is ramming too much air into the sensor that comes right after the adapter, so the car doesnt react well. Is that True or False? Cause I feel the difference, but dont want to drive ingnorant and hurt my car.
#3205
I was told by a mechanic that it is not good to have a cone air filter on my 98 maxima. He told me that it is ramming too much air into the sensor that comes right after the adapter, so the car doesnt react well. Is that True or False? Cause I feel the difference, but dont want to drive ingnorant and hurt my car.
FWIW, you're not gaining very much power if any with just a cone filter on the MAF in the stock location, just drawing in more warm air and creating more noise. The stock setup will provide the best overall driveability and heat protection.
Stock with a good quality filter (K&N, etc) is your best overall choice, following that a Place Racing CAI.
#3206
this is not really my problem, but i thought i'd ask here.
for the past couple of days, my mom starts her car, the RPMs drop, than the car shuts off. she has to tap the gas to prevent the RPMs from dropping and to prevent the car from turning off.
what could this be?
for the past couple of days, my mom starts her car, the RPMs drop, than the car shuts off. she has to tap the gas to prevent the RPMs from dropping and to prevent the car from turning off.
what could this be?
#3207
If so, clean the IACV and TB.
#3208
ECTS sensor is bad
#3210
Seriously, we can't do anything with the zero details you've given us.
#3212
#3213
MPG!
Oh the dreaded MPG *****ing... but I'm gonna!
15 MPG... I have been working consistently when I have the time to figure out the issue. The Car is stock except for some Nissan (Sentra I think) 17" wheels. I have a 95 GLE.
Things to mention... The above quoted text I have addressed. Specifics include all new filters, Fuel Induction Service with BG44k triple treatment.. NO CODES, NO CEL, I understand those are two separate issues...
The drivability of the car feels quite normal to the average driver. There's no hesitation, knocking, poor idling, or any other obvious signs of trouble. I have an auto, and I notice that the car has a mediocre to moderate lack of low end power. Aside from a leaky radiator and accompanying issues, I can't pinpoint why I would be at 15mpg.
My commute is 5 miles. I DO live up a hilly road. I DON'T rev past 2.5krpm. And even when my travels fluctuate and I'm doing 50-100 miles on freeway, going the speed limit, my mpg doesn't really change dramatically. (I measure my MPG by running the car down, filling up all the way, and dividing my miles driven by the gallon fill amount, EVERY time)
My MPG ranges from 15-17 but never gets better.
Aside from overall ideas, I was specifically wondering if I should check the top of the engine for anything faulty in the ignition or fuel delivery systems. Since I have no abnormalities like misfires, CELs, or CODES, I don't necessarily want to go tearing through the top unless I have more input from the wonderful, experienced people here.
One anomaly I found while checking out the spark plugs was that on one of the spark plugs there was motor oil. If I remember correctly it was on or near the threads, not on the tip of the plug. I pulled it out again and found the oil to be in the same spot.
I appreciate any time anyone spends on my post.
-t
Low gas mileage can come from any number of places. Let's start with the basics. Keep in mind the following for optimal gas mileage: use 91+ octane fuel, try to keep RPMs below 4k (normal), your car must be in overall good working order (good oil, good coolant etc) and other factors. If you're doing a bunch of 5 minute trips, or its 0 degrees outside, don't expect gas mileage to be so hot. Also keep in mind that different types of gas can have an effect on the mileage. Shop around to find the best gas you can. But if none of these describes your preidcament, read on. Below are some common causes and cures for bad gas mileage.
1) Air filter. The stock filter on the car is a drop in panel filter. If you bought your car used there is a chance that the filter may have never be changed. This would be the time to do it and you have several options: drop in K&N filter, cone filter or CAI. A search on any of these terms will resolve any questions you may have. If you have a cone filter, the filter may be dirty. K&N makes a recharge kit that is available at Pepboys to clean the filter.
2) Fuel filter. The fuel filter is small gray cylinder on the back of the firewall that is to be changed on a 60k service interval. It is often to blame for bad gas mileage, but can be a pain in the butt to change, but it can be done. The filter is relatively cheap from Nissan. Some members reccomend buying a fuel filter for a Nissan 300ZX. Its the same size hoses, but twice the size, so it lasts 2x longer and is doubly effective. The choice is up to you. The writeup to change the filter can be found here: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ximadriver.com
3) Spark plugs. If you're running anything other than NGK plugs in your engine, or you bought your car used, go get some NGK spark plugs for the dealer. Spark plugs are to be repalced every 60k miles, but rarely are. They will cost about $10 a pop.
4) Dirty throttle body. The throttle body is the first piece of metal behind the intake system. It accumulates a certain amount of dirt and grime. Those who clean it out after long neglect find their car is smoother and that fuel economy does increase. Writeup can be found here: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...w.motorvate.ca
5) Tire Pressure. Stock tire pressure is 29psi. I found recently that mine were at 25 and filled them up and found a substantial increase in fuel economy. If your tires are low, go ahead and fill them up (I filled to about 31, but everyone has a preference).
6) Oxygen sensors. If an oxygen sensor is messed up, it will trigger a Check Engine Light. There are three sensors in total. 2 rest in the respective branches of the Y Pipe (these are the Front Heated 02 Sensors) and one rests in the catalytic converter (95-96) or in the B Pipe right behind the cat (97-99). If any of these sensors fail, gas mileage will decrease substantially. Many sites exist that sell oxygen sensors (dealers will charge a lot). http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...gensensors.com gets good reviews on this site frequently, and they have good prices. For a writeup, go to http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...w.motorvate.ca, or search around the .org
7) Knock Sensor. This is the bad boy, the code everyone fears. The sensor is actually just a piece of metal that rests under your intake manifold. They cost approximately $110 from various sources (http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hepartsbin.com is usually cited as one of the best). The sensor is not terribly difficult to change, but as my friend Harold described it, "Nissan must weld razor blades under the manifold." Due to tight fitting, the sensor often results in a bloody hand. The writeup for the sensor can be found at http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...w.motorvate.ca
8) Dirty fuel system. As a car grows older, carbon deposits in the fuel path, clogging areas such as the injectors. Many modern gasolines are designed to combat this (such as Chevron with Techron) and there are many additives that can be added to gas to clean out these systems. Many mechanics offer a full fuel system clean out for about $50-$75. Many .orgers believe this to be BS, some think the process is valid. The choice is yours.
This is the ticket to good gas mileage! Any other questions can be resolved using the search function, as this subject is discussed quite often. Enjoy!
1) Air filter. The stock filter on the car is a drop in panel filter. If you bought your car used there is a chance that the filter may have never be changed. This would be the time to do it and you have several options: drop in K&N filter, cone filter or CAI. A search on any of these terms will resolve any questions you may have. If you have a cone filter, the filter may be dirty. K&N makes a recharge kit that is available at Pepboys to clean the filter.
2) Fuel filter. The fuel filter is small gray cylinder on the back of the firewall that is to be changed on a 60k service interval. It is often to blame for bad gas mileage, but can be a pain in the butt to change, but it can be done. The filter is relatively cheap from Nissan. Some members reccomend buying a fuel filter for a Nissan 300ZX. Its the same size hoses, but twice the size, so it lasts 2x longer and is doubly effective. The choice is up to you. The writeup to change the filter can be found here: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ximadriver.com
3) Spark plugs. If you're running anything other than NGK plugs in your engine, or you bought your car used, go get some NGK spark plugs for the dealer. Spark plugs are to be repalced every 60k miles, but rarely are. They will cost about $10 a pop.
4) Dirty throttle body. The throttle body is the first piece of metal behind the intake system. It accumulates a certain amount of dirt and grime. Those who clean it out after long neglect find their car is smoother and that fuel economy does increase. Writeup can be found here: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...w.motorvate.ca
5) Tire Pressure. Stock tire pressure is 29psi. I found recently that mine were at 25 and filled them up and found a substantial increase in fuel economy. If your tires are low, go ahead and fill them up (I filled to about 31, but everyone has a preference).
6) Oxygen sensors. If an oxygen sensor is messed up, it will trigger a Check Engine Light. There are three sensors in total. 2 rest in the respective branches of the Y Pipe (these are the Front Heated 02 Sensors) and one rests in the catalytic converter (95-96) or in the B Pipe right behind the cat (97-99). If any of these sensors fail, gas mileage will decrease substantially. Many sites exist that sell oxygen sensors (dealers will charge a lot). http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...gensensors.com gets good reviews on this site frequently, and they have good prices. For a writeup, go to http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...w.motorvate.ca, or search around the .org
7) Knock Sensor. This is the bad boy, the code everyone fears. The sensor is actually just a piece of metal that rests under your intake manifold. They cost approximately $110 from various sources (http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hepartsbin.com is usually cited as one of the best). The sensor is not terribly difficult to change, but as my friend Harold described it, "Nissan must weld razor blades under the manifold." Due to tight fitting, the sensor often results in a bloody hand. The writeup for the sensor can be found at http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...w.motorvate.ca
8) Dirty fuel system. As a car grows older, carbon deposits in the fuel path, clogging areas such as the injectors. Many modern gasolines are designed to combat this (such as Chevron with Techron) and there are many additives that can be added to gas to clean out these systems. Many mechanics offer a full fuel system clean out for about $50-$75. Many .orgers believe this to be BS, some think the process is valid. The choice is yours.
This is the ticket to good gas mileage! Any other questions can be resolved using the search function, as this subject is discussed quite often. Enjoy!
Things to mention... The above quoted text I have addressed. Specifics include all new filters, Fuel Induction Service with BG44k triple treatment.. NO CODES, NO CEL, I understand those are two separate issues...
The drivability of the car feels quite normal to the average driver. There's no hesitation, knocking, poor idling, or any other obvious signs of trouble. I have an auto, and I notice that the car has a mediocre to moderate lack of low end power. Aside from a leaky radiator and accompanying issues, I can't pinpoint why I would be at 15mpg.
My commute is 5 miles. I DO live up a hilly road. I DON'T rev past 2.5krpm. And even when my travels fluctuate and I'm doing 50-100 miles on freeway, going the speed limit, my mpg doesn't really change dramatically. (I measure my MPG by running the car down, filling up all the way, and dividing my miles driven by the gallon fill amount, EVERY time)
My MPG ranges from 15-17 but never gets better.
Aside from overall ideas, I was specifically wondering if I should check the top of the engine for anything faulty in the ignition or fuel delivery systems. Since I have no abnormalities like misfires, CELs, or CODES, I don't necessarily want to go tearing through the top unless I have more input from the wonderful, experienced people here.
One anomaly I found while checking out the spark plugs was that on one of the spark plugs there was motor oil. If I remember correctly it was on or near the threads, not on the tip of the plug. I pulled it out again and found the oil to be in the same spot.
I appreciate any time anyone spends on my post.
-t
Last edited by AustinTylerDean; 04-07-2009 at 11:29 AM.
#3215
Oh the dreaded MPG *****ing... but I'm gonna!
15 MPG... I have been working consistently when I have the time to figure out the issue. The Car is stock except for some Nissan (Sentra I think) 17" wheels. I have a 95 GLE.
Things to mention... The above quoted text I have addressed. Specifics include all new filters, Fuel Induction Service with BG44k triple treatment.. NO CODES, NO CEL, I understand those are two separate issues...
The drivability of the car feels quite normal to the average driver. There's no hesitation, knocking, poor idling, or any other obvious signs of trouble. I have an auto, and I notice that the car has a mediocre to moderate lack of low end power. Aside from a leaky radiator and accompanying issues, I can't pinpoint why I would be at 15mpg.
My commute is 5 miles. I DO live up a hilly road. I DON'T rev past 2.5krpm. And even when my travels fluctuate and I'm doing 50-100 miles on freeway, going the speed limit, my mpg doesn't really change dramatically. (I measure my MPG by running the car down, filling up all the way, and dividing my miles driven by the gallon fill amount, EVERY time)
My MPG ranges from 15-17 but never gets better.
Aside from overall ideas, I was specifically wondering if I should check the top of the engine for anything faulty in the ignition or fuel delivery systems. Since I have no abnormalities like misfires, CELs, or CODES, I don't necessarily want to go tearing through the top unless I have more input from the wonderful, experienced people here.
One anomaly I found while checking out the spark plugs was that on one of the spark plugs there was motor oil. If I remember correctly it was on or near the threads, not on the tip of the plug. I pulled it out again and found the oil to be in the same spot.
I appreciate any time anyone spends on my post.
-t
15 MPG... I have been working consistently when I have the time to figure out the issue. The Car is stock except for some Nissan (Sentra I think) 17" wheels. I have a 95 GLE.
Things to mention... The above quoted text I have addressed. Specifics include all new filters, Fuel Induction Service with BG44k triple treatment.. NO CODES, NO CEL, I understand those are two separate issues...
The drivability of the car feels quite normal to the average driver. There's no hesitation, knocking, poor idling, or any other obvious signs of trouble. I have an auto, and I notice that the car has a mediocre to moderate lack of low end power. Aside from a leaky radiator and accompanying issues, I can't pinpoint why I would be at 15mpg.
My commute is 5 miles. I DO live up a hilly road. I DON'T rev past 2.5krpm. And even when my travels fluctuate and I'm doing 50-100 miles on freeway, going the speed limit, my mpg doesn't really change dramatically. (I measure my MPG by running the car down, filling up all the way, and dividing my miles driven by the gallon fill amount, EVERY time)
My MPG ranges from 15-17 but never gets better.
Aside from overall ideas, I was specifically wondering if I should check the top of the engine for anything faulty in the ignition or fuel delivery systems. Since I have no abnormalities like misfires, CELs, or CODES, I don't necessarily want to go tearing through the top unless I have more input from the wonderful, experienced people here.
One anomaly I found while checking out the spark plugs was that on one of the spark plugs there was motor oil. If I remember correctly it was on or near the threads, not on the tip of the plug. I pulled it out again and found the oil to be in the same spot.
I appreciate any time anyone spends on my post.
-t
So you haven't mentioned, have you not done a tuneup yet? Tried different types/grades of fuel?
Just because you don't notice a misfire, doesn't mean the coils aren't making a good spark. Could very well be throwing out unburned fuel.
Also, have you checked the O2s yet? When they're old, they get lazy, but they won't necessarily throw a code. That'll affect your gas mileage pretty well.
This is all information that can be found by looking through old MPG threads...
Have you not checked the fuses? They'll be visibly burnt, most likely. You replace the ones that are blown.
#3216
If you're not revving over 2500 RPM going up hilly terrain, you'll be using more fuel then revving higher in a better suited gear.
So you haven't mentioned, have you not done a tuneup yet? Tried different types/grades of fuel?
Just because you don't notice a misfire, doesn't mean the coils aren't making a good spark. Could very well be throwing out unburned fuel.
Also, have you checked the O2s yet? When they're old, they get lazy, but they won't necessarily throw a code. That'll affect your gas mileage pretty well.
This is all information that can be found by looking through old MPG threads...
So you haven't mentioned, have you not done a tuneup yet? Tried different types/grades of fuel?
Just because you don't notice a misfire, doesn't mean the coils aren't making a good spark. Could very well be throwing out unburned fuel.
Also, have you checked the O2s yet? When they're old, they get lazy, but they won't necessarily throw a code. That'll affect your gas mileage pretty well.
This is all information that can be found by looking through old MPG threads...
Thanks for the quick reply. I have read quite a few MPG threads, but most people usually have a code pointing to their problem, or they are experiencing some type of anomaly with their idle, knock, etc.
The car had 135k miles on it when i bought it 10/07. It had the 60k service done @120k, and I have done everything again in this process at 148k now.
I have used 87 octane fuel for the first year, then cleaned the EGR myself which was disgusting and a pain in the ***, then decided to use 91 rated fuel with Techron.
So in a roundabout way, I think you answered my question. I will check the coil packs next, followed by the O2 sensors.
Pmohr, if I smogged my car and it came back with ultra low measurements, would that be a quicker way to deduce if the O2s and coilpacks are working correctly?
THanks again,
t
#3217
Not necessarily. The conditions they test under aren't really true to how you'd be driving it, so it could act differently when doing so.
#3218
Tyler,
I agree with Pmohr thus far. I'll add that I think the culprit is most likely the upstream O2 sensors. Here's why. On my 98 Max, I did a full tune up and cleaned everything when I bought the car. I checked my MPG before and after the tune up and it remained the same....21 MPG....all highway driving. From time to time (about every 3 months), I'll get a CEL for the upstream O2 sensor. To date, I've received a CEL twice for the left bank upstream O2 sensor and once for the right bank upstream O2 sensor. After I clear the code, it's about 3 months before I see a code again. I attribute my poor MPG to the O2 sensors, considering I've done everything else, and I got the codes. Therefore, it's very possible your O2 sensors are being 'lazy' as Pmohr said, but your Max never triggered the CEL for whatever reason.
It could be the coilpacks as well as stated. As a last resort, I'd check for bad/leaky fuel injectors. Good luck. Let us know what the culprit turns out to be.
I agree with Pmohr thus far. I'll add that I think the culprit is most likely the upstream O2 sensors. Here's why. On my 98 Max, I did a full tune up and cleaned everything when I bought the car. I checked my MPG before and after the tune up and it remained the same....21 MPG....all highway driving. From time to time (about every 3 months), I'll get a CEL for the upstream O2 sensor. To date, I've received a CEL twice for the left bank upstream O2 sensor and once for the right bank upstream O2 sensor. After I clear the code, it's about 3 months before I see a code again. I attribute my poor MPG to the O2 sensors, considering I've done everything else, and I got the codes. Therefore, it's very possible your O2 sensors are being 'lazy' as Pmohr said, but your Max never triggered the CEL for whatever reason.
It could be the coilpacks as well as stated. As a last resort, I'd check for bad/leaky fuel injectors. Good luck. Let us know what the culprit turns out to be.
#3219
You actually have some spares to the right of all the fuses. They are lined vertically.
#3220
Hello,
I have a 96 car that is leaking coolant out of the "log" that runs between the heads. It is leaking on the back side and I am wondering if there's anyway to remove it without pulling the upper intake manifold and the galleries? I can't see anyway around it but thought I'd ask to save myself the time.
Also, where do the vacuum galleries mount to the motor? I know part of them mount the "log" but I wasn't sure where are they mount to...
I have a 96 car that is leaking coolant out of the "log" that runs between the heads. It is leaking on the back side and I am wondering if there's anyway to remove it without pulling the upper intake manifold and the galleries? I can't see anyway around it but thought I'd ask to save myself the time.
Also, where do the vacuum galleries mount to the motor? I know part of them mount the "log" but I wasn't sure where are they mount to...
#3223
i'm getting my drop next month. while i'm at it, i'm changing other suspension parts (strut mounts, bearings, bump stops, and bushings)
so my question is: how many front sway bar bushings are there total?
i purchased some from energy suspension, and the box came with 2 of them
so my question is: how many front sway bar bushings are there total?
i purchased some from energy suspension, and the box came with 2 of them
#3224
Hello,
I have a 96 car that is leaking coolant out of the "log" that runs between the heads. It is leaking on the back side and I am wondering if there's anyway to remove it without pulling the upper intake manifold and the galleries? I can't see anyway around it but thought I'd ask to save myself the time.
Also, where do the vacuum galleries mount to the motor? I know part of them mount the "log" but I wasn't sure where are they mount to...
I have a 96 car that is leaking coolant out of the "log" that runs between the heads. It is leaking on the back side and I am wondering if there's anyway to remove it without pulling the upper intake manifold and the galleries? I can't see anyway around it but thought I'd ask to save myself the time.
Also, where do the vacuum galleries mount to the motor? I know part of them mount the "log" but I wasn't sure where are they mount to...
The vacuum piping mounts to the coolant log, and IIRC a bolt or two to the head.
Yes...and? Did you even read the first post of this thread?
This thread is for the new members so that they are able to post a LEGITIMATE question. It can be ANYTHING that is 4th generation related and NOT covered in the existing sticky threads. If we think it is important, we will either answer or make it into its own thread. If not, I will delete it.
The difference in the codes is that they're talking about two entirely different valves.
Code: P0443 | Description: EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve/Solenoid Valve
Code: P0446 | Description: EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve Circuit
i'm getting my drop next month. while i'm at it, i'm changing other suspension parts (strut mounts, bearings, bump stops, and bushings)
so my question is: how many front sway bar bushings are there total?
i purchased some from energy suspension, and the box came with 2 of them
so my question is: how many front sway bar bushings are there total?
i purchased some from energy suspension, and the box came with 2 of them
#3226
I have a '96 Maxima with a manual transmission. There is a thin metal plate with teeth attached to the outside of the flywheel that the crankshaft position sensor reads. Does anyone know if this is actually part of the flywheel or if it is a seperate item just bolted to it? If it's seperate, does anyone know what it is called? The one on my car is damaged. I've checked with the parts department of the closest dealer (50 miles away) and they say they can't find anything on it in their system so they want to sell me a flywheel at $300. I'm going to pull the transmission this weekend to find out for sure but thought maybe one of you guys had run into this before.
#3227
I have a '96 Maxima with a manual transmission. There is a thin metal plate with teeth attached to the outside of the flywheel that the crankshaft position sensor reads. Does anyone know if this is actually part of the flywheel or if it is a seperate item just bolted to it? If it's seperate, does anyone know what it is called? The one on my car is damaged. I've checked with the parts department of the closest dealer (50 miles away) and they say they can't find anything on it in their system so they want to sell me a flywheel at $300. I'm going to pull the transmission this weekend to find out for sure but thought maybe one of you guys had run into this before.
You can't get it separately from Nissan, they only package it as a part of the flywheel.
Is it bent/warped, nicked, what? How did it get damaged?
I just had one for sale last week, you posted just barely too late, heh.
#3228
I have a '96 Maxima with a manual transmission. There is a thin metal plate with teeth attached to the outside of the flywheel that the crankshaft position sensor reads. Does anyone know if this is actually part of the flywheel or if it is a seperate item just bolted to it? If it's seperate, does anyone know what it is called? The one on my car is damaged. I've checked with the parts department of the closest dealer (50 miles away) and they say they can't find anything on it in their system so they want to sell me a flywheel at $300. I'm going to pull the transmission this weekend to find out for sure but thought maybe one of you guys had run into this before.
I guess I'll just have to hit the salvage yards and try to find one. If anyone else has one that they would like to sell I would be interested.
Thanks for the quick response!
#3229
Hey everyone - I've been searching through the forums for weeks, and I'm still unsure of the answer to this question. I have a 95 with what I am certain is timing chain noise/knock, but, the noise is always there, not just on cold start.
It originally started out as intermittent on start, progressed to occasionally while running, finally ending up where it is now, with the tapping always noticeable. On a car that has reached this stage, can replacing the tensioner spring/o-ring/plunger per the how-to still clean up the sound, or do I need to go w/ the full teardown to remove and replace all the guides / upper tensioners?
About how strong is the spring tension on the tensioner? Should I be able to compress the spring/plunger assembly all the way down? When I first looked at the plunger on the car it looked like it was flat against the tensioner body, with no extension (though I assume it would be that way due to no oil pressure/car off). Also, should the tensioner hold pressure? When compressing the plunger assembly, it loses the built up pressure out the back of the tensioner assembly after holding it for a second.
It originally started out as intermittent on start, progressed to occasionally while running, finally ending up where it is now, with the tapping always noticeable. On a car that has reached this stage, can replacing the tensioner spring/o-ring/plunger per the how-to still clean up the sound, or do I need to go w/ the full teardown to remove and replace all the guides / upper tensioners?
About how strong is the spring tension on the tensioner? Should I be able to compress the spring/plunger assembly all the way down? When I first looked at the plunger on the car it looked like it was flat against the tensioner body, with no extension (though I assume it would be that way due to no oil pressure/car off). Also, should the tensioner hold pressure? When compressing the plunger assembly, it loses the built up pressure out the back of the tensioner assembly after holding it for a second.
Last edited by Boosted5speed; 04-08-2009 at 05:02 PM.
#3230
Hey everyone - I've been searching and browsing through the forums multiple times, and im still unsure of the answer to this question. I have a 95 with what im certain is timing chain noise/knock, but, the noise is always there, not just on cold start.
It originally started out as intermittent on start, progressed to occasionally while running, finally ending up where it is now, with the tapping always noticeable. On a car that has reached this stage, can replacing the tensioner spring/oring/plunger per the how-to still clean up the sound, or do I need to go w/ the full teardown to remove and replace all the guides / upper tensioners?
About how strong is the spring tension on the tensioner? Should I be able to compress the spring/plunger assembly all the way down? When I first looked at the plunger on the car it looked like it was flat against the tensioner body, with no extension (though I assume it would be that way due to no oil pressure/car off). Also, should the tensioner hold pressure? When compressing the plunger assembly, it loses the built up pressure out the back of the tensioner assembly after holding it for a second.
It originally started out as intermittent on start, progressed to occasionally while running, finally ending up where it is now, with the tapping always noticeable. On a car that has reached this stage, can replacing the tensioner spring/oring/plunger per the how-to still clean up the sound, or do I need to go w/ the full teardown to remove and replace all the guides / upper tensioners?
About how strong is the spring tension on the tensioner? Should I be able to compress the spring/plunger assembly all the way down? When I first looked at the plunger on the car it looked like it was flat against the tensioner body, with no extension (though I assume it would be that way due to no oil pressure/car off). Also, should the tensioner hold pressure? When compressing the plunger assembly, it loses the built up pressure out the back of the tensioner assembly after holding it for a second.
It's decently strong, but no real way to say what exact amount of tension it's supposed to exert. Yes, you can do it by hand, generally.
It's not supposed to be all the way in under rest, the spring should keep it extended at least a little. The oil acts more as a shock absorber, so the tensioner isn't constantly springing in and out (to my knowledge).
#3231
You could just replace the internals, but it'll likely still be prone to the same problems as the tensioner body was redesigned to reduce leakdown.
It's decently strong, but no real way to say what exact amount of tension it's supposed to exert. Yes, you can do it by hand, generally.
It's not supposed to be all the way in under rest, the spring should keep it extended at least a little. The oil acts more as a shock absorber, so the tensioner isn't constantly springing in and out (to my knowledge).
It's decently strong, but no real way to say what exact amount of tension it's supposed to exert. Yes, you can do it by hand, generally.
It's not supposed to be all the way in under rest, the spring should keep it extended at least a little. The oil acts more as a shock absorber, so the tensioner isn't constantly springing in and out (to my knowledge).
I suppose it really couldn't hurt to buy the new tensioner and replace the spring/plunger/oring to see if it fixes it, and if not move on to the next step as I could still use the new parts if i needed to go further. Im just worried it might be something more serious if the sound is always there.
#3232
The problem I've noticed that everybody is replacing the spring/plunger to correct the on-startup sound. I am unsure if it can correct the problem when the sound is ALWAYS there, and that is what im trying to figure out.
I suppose it really couldn't hurt to buy the new tensioner and replace the spring/plunger/oring to see if it fixes it, and if not move on to the next step as I could still use the new parts if i needed to go further. Im just worried it might be something more serious if the sound is always there.
I suppose it really couldn't hurt to buy the new tensioner and replace the spring/plunger/oring to see if it fixes it, and if not move on to the next step as I could still use the new parts if i needed to go further. Im just worried it might be something more serious if the sound is always there.
Also, you could always run the engine with the tensioner cover off, and see if it's extending at all to tension the chain. You shouldn't get much oil out of there, considering everything in there is splash oiled (and IIRC the tensioner will drain straight down, or into the timing cover).
#3233
If your tensioner isn't extending at all when at rest, that could very well be the problem (the spring). Is it extremely easy to compress the tensioner piston into the body when it's drained of oil?
Also, you could always run the engine with the tensioner cover off, and see if it's extending at all to tension the chain. You shouldn't get much oil out of there, considering everything in there is splash oiled (and IIRC the tensioner will drain straight down, or into the timing cover).
Also, you could always run the engine with the tensioner cover off, and see if it's extending at all to tension the chain. You shouldn't get much oil out of there, considering everything in there is splash oiled (and IIRC the tensioner will drain straight down, or into the timing cover).
#3234
I'm going back to the junkyard tomorrow and my friend is gonna take off the driver side fender, rear spoiler, and 4 mudguards from a 96 ruby pearl maxima. all parts are in good condition and needed for my car. What is a fair price for each part? The guy told me 30 bucks for the mudguards (sounds high?) and 65 or 70 for the spoiler(paint is good on it.) I forgot to price the fender but its in good shape as well.....What is a fair price for those parts all purchased together?
FYI: It's chuck and eddies junkyard off exit 8 I91 in new haven. Lot of maximas there for you CT guys.
FYI: It's chuck and eddies junkyard off exit 8 I91 in new haven. Lot of maximas there for you CT guys.
#3235
Can someone help? 99 Nissan Maxima 3.0. I have used http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html to try and check my codes and turn off my check engine light. However my ECU doesn't look like that. It has and Idler control screw. Am i looking in the right place. There is a sticker that says self diagnostic, but it doesnt have an arrow. And the screw head is not a flat head. I've looked thru the forums but is there somewhere i can find the right information i need?
#3236
I'm going back to the junkyard tomorrow and my friend is gonna take off the driver side fender, rear spoiler, and 4 mudguards from a 96 ruby pearl maxima. all parts are in good condition and needed for my car. What is a fair price for each part? The guy told me 30 bucks for the mudguards (sounds high?) and 65 or 70 for the spoiler(paint is good on it.) I forgot to price the fender but its in good shape as well.....What is a fair price for those parts all purchased together?
FYI: It's chuck and eddies junkyard off exit 8 I91 in new haven. Lot of maximas there for you CT guys.
FYI: It's chuck and eddies junkyard off exit 8 I91 in new haven. Lot of maximas there for you CT guys.
For example, prices in my area: http://www.crazyraysautoparts.com/price.htm
Can someone help? 99 Nissan Maxima 3.0. I have used http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html to try and check my codes and turn off my check engine light. However my ECU doesn't look like that. It has and Idler control screw. Am i looking in the right place. There is a sticker that says self diagnostic, but it doesnt have an arrow. And the screw head is not a flat head. I've looked thru the forums but is there somewhere i can find the right information i need?
#3237
Thanks
Prices really depend on area and specific yards.
For example, prices in my area: http://www.crazyraysautoparts.com/price.htm
Do it just the same way that the page says. Yes, the '99s have a phillips head diagnostic screw, not a flathead.
For example, prices in my area: http://www.crazyraysautoparts.com/price.htm
Do it just the same way that the page says. Yes, the '99s have a phillips head diagnostic screw, not a flathead.
#3239
Seriously? Again, read the first post.
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And that's just from the first 2 and a half pages...