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Old 04-05-2009 | 08:38 PM
  #3201  
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Originally Posted by 9maxima5se
Sorry about the confusion, if i was to try and hold the clutch pedal down the car would stall, the fluid level in the reservoir is fine. When the car is running i have a loud whine and when i try and press the clutch in it gets louder.
Any codes? Have you tried cleaning your TB/IACV yet for the stalling issue?

You keep saying to try to press the clutch pedal in, is it too stiff to actually do so? Does it not go all the way down?

A noise getting louder when clutched in is more than likely the TOB.
Old 04-05-2009 | 08:45 PM
  #3202  
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Drive shaft

I'm planning to replace my cv axle. I've ordered a EMPI shaft assembly that comes with a "Drive Axle Seal(J1152-84563)". Anybody knows if that is the same thing as the "differential oil seal" mentioned in the FSM FA-13 step 2?

Thank you
Old 04-05-2009 | 08:47 PM
  #3203  
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Originally Posted by RPM
I'm planning to replace my cv axle. I've ordered a EMPI shaft assembly that comes with a "Drive Axle Seal(J1152-84563)". Anybody knows if that is the same thing as the "differential oil seal" mentioned in the FSM FA-13 step 2?

Thank you
Most likely, but without a link or a picture,

A quick google shows it to most likely be the correct part.

Just hope they got you the right size if you're doing the driver's side.
Old 04-05-2009 | 10:51 PM
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Cone Air Filter Question?

I was told by a mechanic that it is not good to have a cone air filter on my 98 maxima. He told me that it is ramming too much air into the sensor that comes right after the adapter, so the car doesnt react well. Is that True or False? Cause I feel the difference, but dont want to drive ingnorant and hurt my car.
Old 04-05-2009 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by SupaPro81
I was told by a mechanic that it is not good to have a cone air filter on my 98 maxima. He told me that it is ramming too much air into the sensor that comes right after the adapter, so the car doesnt react well. Is that True or False? Cause I feel the difference, but dont want to drive ingnorant and hurt my car.
While true that having the filter in very close proximity to the MAF can cause some turbulence and air flow issues that may result in improper readings, it's not all too much to worry about.

FWIW, you're not gaining very much power if any with just a cone filter on the MAF in the stock location, just drawing in more warm air and creating more noise. The stock setup will provide the best overall driveability and heat protection.

Stock with a good quality filter (K&N, etc) is your best overall choice, following that a Place Racing CAI.
Old 04-06-2009 | 01:35 PM
  #3206  
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this is not really my problem, but i thought i'd ask here.
for the past couple of days, my mom starts her car, the RPMs drop, than the car shuts off. she has to tap the gas to prevent the RPMs from dropping and to prevent the car from turning off.
what could this be?
Old 04-06-2009 | 04:14 PM
  #3207  
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Originally Posted by J RO 9
this is not really my problem, but i thought i'd ask here.
for the past couple of days, my mom starts her car, the RPMs drop, than the car shuts off. she has to tap the gas to prevent the RPMs from dropping and to prevent the car from turning off.
what could this be?
So are we to assume that this is a 4th gen Maxima?

If so, clean the IACV and TB.
Old 04-06-2009 | 04:16 PM
  #3208  
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Originally Posted by J RO 9
this is not really my problem, but i thought i'd ask here.
for the past couple of days, my mom starts her car, the RPMs drop, than the car shuts off. she has to tap the gas to prevent the RPMs from dropping and to prevent the car from turning off.
what could this be?
ECTS sensor is bad
Old 04-07-2009 | 06:52 AM
  #3209  
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hey i have a serious problem my 4th gen is miss firing and back firing through the intake manifold need help asap reply or pm me with the details
Old 04-07-2009 | 08:46 AM
  #3210  
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Originally Posted by purejdmmax1
hey i have a serious problem my 4th gen is miss firing and back firing through the intake manifold need help asap reply or pm me with the details
...any codes? Done any diagnostics? Do any work prior to this happening? When did it start, under what conditions?

Seriously, we can't do anything with the zero details you've given us.
Old 04-07-2009 | 09:01 AM
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codes are knock sensor and speed sensor malfuction and it started from about last week wednesday
Old 04-07-2009 | 09:13 AM
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Originally Posted by purejdmmax1
codes are knock sensor and speed sensor malfuction and it started from about last week wednesday
Again, more detail. If you appear not willing to help us help you, we'll be less willing as well.

You didn't answer all of my questions, either.
Old 04-07-2009 | 11:11 AM
  #3213  
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MPG!

Oh the dreaded MPG *****ing... but I'm gonna!

Low gas mileage can come from any number of places. Let's start with the basics. Keep in mind the following for optimal gas mileage: use 91+ octane fuel, try to keep RPMs below 4k (normal), your car must be in overall good working order (good oil, good coolant etc) and other factors. If you're doing a bunch of 5 minute trips, or its 0 degrees outside, don't expect gas mileage to be so hot. Also keep in mind that different types of gas can have an effect on the mileage. Shop around to find the best gas you can. But if none of these describes your preidcament, read on. Below are some common causes and cures for bad gas mileage.

1) Air filter. The stock filter on the car is a drop in panel filter. If you bought your car used there is a chance that the filter may have never be changed. This would be the time to do it and you have several options: drop in K&N filter, cone filter or CAI. A search on any of these terms will resolve any questions you may have. If you have a cone filter, the filter may be dirty. K&N makes a recharge kit that is available at Pepboys to clean the filter.

2) Fuel filter. The fuel filter is small gray cylinder on the back of the firewall that is to be changed on a 60k service interval. It is often to blame for bad gas mileage, but can be a pain in the butt to change, but it can be done. The filter is relatively cheap from Nissan. Some members reccomend buying a fuel filter for a Nissan 300ZX. Its the same size hoses, but twice the size, so it lasts 2x longer and is doubly effective. The choice is up to you. The writeup to change the filter can be found here: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ximadriver.com

3) Spark plugs. If you're running anything other than NGK plugs in your engine, or you bought your car used, go get some NGK spark plugs for the dealer. Spark plugs are to be repalced every 60k miles, but rarely are. They will cost about $10 a pop.

4) Dirty throttle body. The throttle body is the first piece of metal behind the intake system. It accumulates a certain amount of dirt and grime. Those who clean it out after long neglect find their car is smoother and that fuel economy does increase. Writeup can be found here: http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...w.motorvate.ca

5) Tire Pressure. Stock tire pressure is 29psi. I found recently that mine were at 25 and filled them up and found a substantial increase in fuel economy. If your tires are low, go ahead and fill them up (I filled to about 31, but everyone has a preference).

6) Oxygen sensors. If an oxygen sensor is messed up, it will trigger a Check Engine Light. There are three sensors in total. 2 rest in the respective branches of the Y Pipe (these are the Front Heated 02 Sensors) and one rests in the catalytic converter (95-96) or in the B Pipe right behind the cat (97-99). If any of these sensors fail, gas mileage will decrease substantially. Many sites exist that sell oxygen sensors (dealers will charge a lot). http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...gensensors.com gets good reviews on this site frequently, and they have good prices. For a writeup, go to http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...w.motorvate.ca, or search around the .org

7) Knock Sensor. This is the bad boy, the code everyone fears. The sensor is actually just a piece of metal that rests under your intake manifold. They cost approximately $110 from various sources (http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hepartsbin.com is usually cited as one of the best). The sensor is not terribly difficult to change, but as my friend Harold described it, "Nissan must weld razor blades under the manifold." Due to tight fitting, the sensor often results in a bloody hand. The writeup for the sensor can be found at http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...w.motorvate.ca

8) Dirty fuel system. As a car grows older, carbon deposits in the fuel path, clogging areas such as the injectors. Many modern gasolines are designed to combat this (such as Chevron with Techron) and there are many additives that can be added to gas to clean out these systems. Many mechanics offer a full fuel system clean out for about $50-$75. Many .orgers believe this to be BS, some think the process is valid. The choice is yours.

This is the ticket to good gas mileage! Any other questions can be resolved using the search function, as this subject is discussed quite often. Enjoy!
15 MPG... I have been working consistently when I have the time to figure out the issue. The Car is stock except for some Nissan (Sentra I think) 17" wheels. I have a 95 GLE.

Things to mention... The above quoted text I have addressed. Specifics include all new filters, Fuel Induction Service with BG44k triple treatment.. NO CODES, NO CEL, I understand those are two separate issues...

The drivability of the car feels quite normal to the average driver. There's no hesitation, knocking, poor idling, or any other obvious signs of trouble. I have an auto, and I notice that the car has a mediocre to moderate lack of low end power. Aside from a leaky radiator and accompanying issues, I can't pinpoint why I would be at 15mpg.

My commute is 5 miles. I DO live up a hilly road. I DON'T rev past 2.5krpm. And even when my travels fluctuate and I'm doing 50-100 miles on freeway, going the speed limit, my mpg doesn't really change dramatically. (I measure my MPG by running the car down, filling up all the way, and dividing my miles driven by the gallon fill amount, EVERY time)

My MPG ranges from 15-17 but never gets better.

Aside from overall ideas, I was specifically wondering if I should check the top of the engine for anything faulty in the ignition or fuel delivery systems. Since I have no abnormalities like misfires, CELs, or CODES, I don't necessarily want to go tearing through the top unless I have more input from the wonderful, experienced people here.

One anomaly I found while checking out the spark plugs was that on one of the spark plugs there was motor oil. If I remember correctly it was on or near the threads, not on the tip of the plug. I pulled it out again and found the oil to be in the same spot.

I appreciate any time anyone spends on my post.

-t

Last edited by AustinTylerDean; 04-07-2009 at 11:29 AM.
Old 04-07-2009 | 01:54 PM
  #3214  
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I just replaced my battery in my 95' maxima and my head unit and my clock dont work anymore, and im thinking its the fuses but how do i tell if its a bad fuse and which ones do i replace??
Old 04-07-2009 | 03:14 PM
  #3215  
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Originally Posted by AustinTylerDean
Oh the dreaded MPG *****ing... but I'm gonna!



15 MPG... I have been working consistently when I have the time to figure out the issue. The Car is stock except for some Nissan (Sentra I think) 17" wheels. I have a 95 GLE.

Things to mention... The above quoted text I have addressed. Specifics include all new filters, Fuel Induction Service with BG44k triple treatment.. NO CODES, NO CEL, I understand those are two separate issues...

The drivability of the car feels quite normal to the average driver. There's no hesitation, knocking, poor idling, or any other obvious signs of trouble. I have an auto, and I notice that the car has a mediocre to moderate lack of low end power. Aside from a leaky radiator and accompanying issues, I can't pinpoint why I would be at 15mpg.

My commute is 5 miles. I DO live up a hilly road. I DON'T rev past 2.5krpm. And even when my travels fluctuate and I'm doing 50-100 miles on freeway, going the speed limit, my mpg doesn't really change dramatically. (I measure my MPG by running the car down, filling up all the way, and dividing my miles driven by the gallon fill amount, EVERY time)

My MPG ranges from 15-17 but never gets better.

Aside from overall ideas, I was specifically wondering if I should check the top of the engine for anything faulty in the ignition or fuel delivery systems. Since I have no abnormalities like misfires, CELs, or CODES, I don't necessarily want to go tearing through the top unless I have more input from the wonderful, experienced people here.

One anomaly I found while checking out the spark plugs was that on one of the spark plugs there was motor oil. If I remember correctly it was on or near the threads, not on the tip of the plug. I pulled it out again and found the oil to be in the same spot.

I appreciate any time anyone spends on my post.

-t
If you're not revving over 2500 RPM going up hilly terrain, you'll be using more fuel then revving higher in a better suited gear.

So you haven't mentioned, have you not done a tuneup yet? Tried different types/grades of fuel?

Just because you don't notice a misfire, doesn't mean the coils aren't making a good spark. Could very well be throwing out unburned fuel.

Also, have you checked the O2s yet? When they're old, they get lazy, but they won't necessarily throw a code. That'll affect your gas mileage pretty well.

This is all information that can be found by looking through old MPG threads...

Originally Posted by brodriguez35
I just replaced my battery in my 95' maxima and my head unit and my clock dont work anymore, and im thinking its the fuses but how do i tell if its a bad fuse and which ones do i replace??
Have you not checked the fuses? They'll be visibly burnt, most likely. You replace the ones that are blown.
Old 04-07-2009 | 04:13 PM
  #3216  
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Originally Posted by pmohr
If you're not revving over 2500 RPM going up hilly terrain, you'll be using more fuel then revving higher in a better suited gear.

So you haven't mentioned, have you not done a tuneup yet? Tried different types/grades of fuel?

Just because you don't notice a misfire, doesn't mean the coils aren't making a good spark. Could very well be throwing out unburned fuel.

Also, have you checked the O2s yet? When they're old, they get lazy, but they won't necessarily throw a code. That'll affect your gas mileage pretty well.

This is all information that can be found by looking through old MPG threads...

Thanks for the quick reply. I have read quite a few MPG threads, but most people usually have a code pointing to their problem, or they are experiencing some type of anomaly with their idle, knock, etc.

The car had 135k miles on it when i bought it 10/07. It had the 60k service done @120k, and I have done everything again in this process at 148k now.

I have used 87 octane fuel for the first year, then cleaned the EGR myself which was disgusting and a pain in the ***, then decided to use 91 rated fuel with Techron.

So in a roundabout way, I think you answered my question. I will check the coil packs next, followed by the O2 sensors.

Pmohr, if I smogged my car and it came back with ultra low measurements, would that be a quicker way to deduce if the O2s and coilpacks are working correctly?

THanks again,
t
Old 04-07-2009 | 04:19 PM
  #3217  
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Originally Posted by AustinTylerDean
Pmohr, if I smogged my car and it came back with ultra low measurements, would that be a quicker way to deduce if the O2s and coilpacks are working correctly?

THanks again,
t
Not necessarily. The conditions they test under aren't really true to how you'd be driving it, so it could act differently when doing so.
Old 04-07-2009 | 05:04 PM
  #3218  
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Tyler,

I agree with Pmohr thus far. I'll add that I think the culprit is most likely the upstream O2 sensors. Here's why. On my 98 Max, I did a full tune up and cleaned everything when I bought the car. I checked my MPG before and after the tune up and it remained the same....21 MPG....all highway driving. From time to time (about every 3 months), I'll get a CEL for the upstream O2 sensor. To date, I've received a CEL twice for the left bank upstream O2 sensor and once for the right bank upstream O2 sensor. After I clear the code, it's about 3 months before I see a code again. I attribute my poor MPG to the O2 sensors, considering I've done everything else, and I got the codes. Therefore, it's very possible your O2 sensors are being 'lazy' as Pmohr said, but your Max never triggered the CEL for whatever reason.

It could be the coilpacks as well as stated. As a last resort, I'd check for bad/leaky fuel injectors. Good luck. Let us know what the culprit turns out to be.
Old 04-07-2009 | 07:46 PM
  #3219  
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Originally Posted by brodriguez35
I just replaced my battery in my 95' maxima and my head unit and my clock dont work anymore, and im thinking its the fuses but how do i tell if its a bad fuse and which ones do i replace??
Brodriguez, what you want to do is get a flashlight and some pliars, open the driver door, pull the panel off your fuse box, and on the back of the lid is a map of which fuse does what. Pull out the ones that apply, and look to make sure that each part of the blade is connected to each other by the center piece of metal.

You actually have some spares to the right of all the fuses. They are lined vertically.
Old 04-07-2009 | 09:23 PM
  #3220  
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Hello,

I have a 96 car that is leaking coolant out of the "log" that runs between the heads. It is leaking on the back side and I am wondering if there's anyway to remove it without pulling the upper intake manifold and the galleries? I can't see anyway around it but thought I'd ask to save myself the time.

Also, where do the vacuum galleries mount to the motor? I know part of them mount the "log" but I wasn't sure where are they mount to...
Old 04-07-2009 | 09:41 PM
  #3221  
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not a technical question but has anyone heard of ricekiller.com???
Old 04-08-2009 | 03:17 AM
  #3222  
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Evap Vent Purge Control Valve

Is the vent control valve and purge control valve the same thing? What is the difference between cel codes P0443 and P0446 for a 96 A/T?
Old 04-08-2009 | 12:43 PM
  #3223  
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i'm getting my drop next month. while i'm at it, i'm changing other suspension parts (strut mounts, bearings, bump stops, and bushings)
so my question is: how many front sway bar bushings are there total?
i purchased some from energy suspension, and the box came with 2 of them
Old 04-08-2009 | 12:53 PM
  #3224  
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Originally Posted by hayasa8
Hello,

I have a 96 car that is leaking coolant out of the "log" that runs between the heads. It is leaking on the back side and I am wondering if there's anyway to remove it without pulling the upper intake manifold and the galleries? I can't see anyway around it but thought I'd ask to save myself the time.

Also, where do the vacuum galleries mount to the motor? I know part of them mount the "log" but I wasn't sure where are they mount to...
You should be able to take it out without removing the UIM, but it'll be a PITA.

The vacuum piping mounts to the coolant log, and IIRC a bolt or two to the head.

Originally Posted by 95MAXd
not a technical question but has anyone heard of ricekiller.com???
Yes...and? Did you even read the first post of this thread?

Originally Posted by phenryiv1
This thread is for the new members so that they are able to post a LEGITIMATE question. It can be ANYTHING that is 4th generation related and NOT covered in the existing sticky threads. If we think it is important, we will either answer or make it into its own thread. If not, I will delete it.
Originally Posted by C-ko
Is the vent control valve and purge control valve the same thing? What is the difference between cel codes P0443 and P0446 for a 96 A/T?
They're not the same thing, hence why they have different names.

The difference in the codes is that they're talking about two entirely different valves.

Code: P0443 | Description: EVAP Canister Purge Control Valve/Solenoid Valve


Code: P0446 | Description: EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve Circuit



Originally Posted by J RO 9
i'm getting my drop next month. while i'm at it, i'm changing other suspension parts (strut mounts, bearings, bump stops, and bushings)
so my question is: how many front sway bar bushings are there total?
i purchased some from energy suspension, and the box came with 2 of them
2. That's why there are 2 in the box.
Old 04-08-2009 | 01:02 PM
  #3225  
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Originally Posted by pmohr
2. That's why there are 2 in the box.
sounds good.
i can't wait to have mADDDD tYT3 jDM hANDLiiNq Y0!
Old 04-08-2009 | 01:28 PM
  #3226  
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I have a '96 Maxima with a manual transmission. There is a thin metal plate with teeth attached to the outside of the flywheel that the crankshaft position sensor reads. Does anyone know if this is actually part of the flywheel or if it is a seperate item just bolted to it? If it's seperate, does anyone know what it is called? The one on my car is damaged. I've checked with the parts department of the closest dealer (50 miles away) and they say they can't find anything on it in their system so they want to sell me a flywheel at $300. I'm going to pull the transmission this weekend to find out for sure but thought maybe one of you guys had run into this before.
Old 04-08-2009 | 01:30 PM
  #3227  
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Originally Posted by ozark4x4
I have a '96 Maxima with a manual transmission. There is a thin metal plate with teeth attached to the outside of the flywheel that the crankshaft position sensor reads. Does anyone know if this is actually part of the flywheel or if it is a seperate item just bolted to it? If it's seperate, does anyone know what it is called? The one on my car is damaged. I've checked with the parts department of the closest dealer (50 miles away) and they say they can't find anything on it in their system so they want to sell me a flywheel at $300. I'm going to pull the transmission this weekend to find out for sure but thought maybe one of you guys had run into this before.
It's called a timing ring. It just bolts up to the flywheel. Maybe half a dozen 12mm head bolts.

You can't get it separately from Nissan, they only package it as a part of the flywheel.

Is it bent/warped, nicked, what? How did it get damaged?

I just had one for sale last week, you posted just barely too late, heh.
Old 04-08-2009 | 02:14 PM
  #3228  
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I have a '96 Maxima with a manual transmission. There is a thin metal plate with teeth attached to the outside of the flywheel that the crankshaft position sensor reads. Does anyone know if this is actually part of the flywheel or if it is a seperate item just bolted to it? If it's seperate, does anyone know what it is called? The one on my car is damaged. I've checked with the parts department of the closest dealer (50 miles away) and they say they can't find anything on it in their system so they want to sell me a flywheel at $300. I'm going to pull the transmission this weekend to find out for sure but thought maybe one of you guys had run into this before.
I bent some of the teeth while changing out the crankshaft pully (trying to keep it from turning while removing the crankshaft bolt). If I had know it was there I would have been more careful. Live and learn.

I guess I'll just have to hit the salvage yards and try to find one. If anyone else has one that they would like to sell I would be interested.

Thanks for the quick response!
Old 04-08-2009 | 04:51 PM
  #3229  
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Hey everyone - I've been searching through the forums for weeks, and I'm still unsure of the answer to this question. I have a 95 with what I am certain is timing chain noise/knock, but, the noise is always there, not just on cold start.

It originally started out as intermittent on start, progressed to occasionally while running, finally ending up where it is now, with the tapping always noticeable. On a car that has reached this stage, can replacing the tensioner spring/o-ring/plunger per the how-to still clean up the sound, or do I need to go w/ the full teardown to remove and replace all the guides / upper tensioners?

About how strong is the spring tension on the tensioner? Should I be able to compress the spring/plunger assembly all the way down? When I first looked at the plunger on the car it looked like it was flat against the tensioner body, with no extension (though I assume it would be that way due to no oil pressure/car off). Also, should the tensioner hold pressure? When compressing the plunger assembly, it loses the built up pressure out the back of the tensioner assembly after holding it for a second.

Last edited by Boosted5speed; 04-08-2009 at 05:02 PM.
Old 04-08-2009 | 05:03 PM
  #3230  
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Originally Posted by Boosted5speed
Hey everyone - I've been searching and browsing through the forums multiple times, and im still unsure of the answer to this question. I have a 95 with what im certain is timing chain noise/knock, but, the noise is always there, not just on cold start.

It originally started out as intermittent on start, progressed to occasionally while running, finally ending up where it is now, with the tapping always noticeable. On a car that has reached this stage, can replacing the tensioner spring/oring/plunger per the how-to still clean up the sound, or do I need to go w/ the full teardown to remove and replace all the guides / upper tensioners?

About how strong is the spring tension on the tensioner? Should I be able to compress the spring/plunger assembly all the way down? When I first looked at the plunger on the car it looked like it was flat against the tensioner body, with no extension (though I assume it would be that way due to no oil pressure/car off). Also, should the tensioner hold pressure? When compressing the plunger assembly, it loses the built up pressure out the back of the tensioner assembly after holding it for a second.
You could just replace the internals, but it'll likely still be prone to the same problems as the tensioner body was redesigned to reduce leakdown.

It's decently strong, but no real way to say what exact amount of tension it's supposed to exert. Yes, you can do it by hand, generally.

It's not supposed to be all the way in under rest, the spring should keep it extended at least a little. The oil acts more as a shock absorber, so the tensioner isn't constantly springing in and out (to my knowledge).
Old 04-08-2009 | 05:29 PM
  #3231  
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Originally Posted by pmohr
You could just replace the internals, but it'll likely still be prone to the same problems as the tensioner body was redesigned to reduce leakdown.

It's decently strong, but no real way to say what exact amount of tension it's supposed to exert. Yes, you can do it by hand, generally.

It's not supposed to be all the way in under rest, the spring should keep it extended at least a little. The oil acts more as a shock absorber, so the tensioner isn't constantly springing in and out (to my knowledge).
The problem I've noticed that everybody is replacing the spring/plunger to correct the on-startup sound. I am unsure if it can correct the problem when the sound is ALWAYS there, and that is what im trying to figure out.

I suppose it really couldn't hurt to buy the new tensioner and replace the spring/plunger/oring to see if it fixes it, and if not move on to the next step as I could still use the new parts if i needed to go further. Im just worried it might be something more serious if the sound is always there.
Old 04-08-2009 | 05:45 PM
  #3232  
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Originally Posted by Boosted5speed
The problem I've noticed that everybody is replacing the spring/plunger to correct the on-startup sound. I am unsure if it can correct the problem when the sound is ALWAYS there, and that is what im trying to figure out.

I suppose it really couldn't hurt to buy the new tensioner and replace the spring/plunger/oring to see if it fixes it, and if not move on to the next step as I could still use the new parts if i needed to go further. Im just worried it might be something more serious if the sound is always there.
If your tensioner isn't extending at all when at rest, that could very well be the problem (the spring). Is it extremely easy to compress the tensioner piston into the body when it's drained of oil?

Also, you could always run the engine with the tensioner cover off, and see if it's extending at all to tension the chain. You shouldn't get much oil out of there, considering everything in there is splash oiled (and IIRC the tensioner will drain straight down, or into the timing cover).
Old 04-08-2009 | 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
If your tensioner isn't extending at all when at rest, that could very well be the problem (the spring). Is it extremely easy to compress the tensioner piston into the body when it's drained of oil?

Also, you could always run the engine with the tensioner cover off, and see if it's extending at all to tension the chain. You shouldn't get much oil out of there, considering everything in there is splash oiled (and IIRC the tensioner will drain straight down, or into the timing cover).
Yes, I would have to describe it as easy to compress with no oil in the tensioner.
Old 04-08-2009 | 11:45 PM
  #3234  
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I'm going back to the junkyard tomorrow and my friend is gonna take off the driver side fender, rear spoiler, and 4 mudguards from a 96 ruby pearl maxima. all parts are in good condition and needed for my car. What is a fair price for each part? The guy told me 30 bucks for the mudguards (sounds high?) and 65 or 70 for the spoiler(paint is good on it.) I forgot to price the fender but its in good shape as well.....What is a fair price for those parts all purchased together?
FYI: It's chuck and eddies junkyard off exit 8 I91 in new haven. Lot of maximas there for you CT guys.
Old 04-09-2009 | 03:33 PM
  #3235  
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Can someone help? 99 Nissan Maxima 3.0. I have used http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html to try and check my codes and turn off my check engine light. However my ECU doesn't look like that. It has and Idler control screw. Am i looking in the right place. There is a sticker that says self diagnostic, but it doesnt have an arrow. And the screw head is not a flat head. I've looked thru the forums but is there somewhere i can find the right information i need?
Old 04-09-2009 | 03:40 PM
  #3236  
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Originally Posted by Twizm12
I'm going back to the junkyard tomorrow and my friend is gonna take off the driver side fender, rear spoiler, and 4 mudguards from a 96 ruby pearl maxima. all parts are in good condition and needed for my car. What is a fair price for each part? The guy told me 30 bucks for the mudguards (sounds high?) and 65 or 70 for the spoiler(paint is good on it.) I forgot to price the fender but its in good shape as well.....What is a fair price for those parts all purchased together?
FYI: It's chuck and eddies junkyard off exit 8 I91 in new haven. Lot of maximas there for you CT guys.
Prices really depend on area and specific yards.

For example, prices in my area: http://www.crazyraysautoparts.com/price.htm

Originally Posted by DrEngineer
Can someone help? 99 Nissan Maxima 3.0. I have used http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html to try and check my codes and turn off my check engine light. However my ECU doesn't look like that. It has and Idler control screw. Am i looking in the right place. There is a sticker that says self diagnostic, but it doesnt have an arrow. And the screw head is not a flat head. I've looked thru the forums but is there somewhere i can find the right information i need?
Do it just the same way that the page says. Yes, the '99s have a phillips head diagnostic screw, not a flathead.
Old 04-09-2009 | 03:44 PM
  #3237  
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Thanks

Originally Posted by pmohr
Prices really depend on area and specific yards.

For example, prices in my area: http://www.crazyraysautoparts.com/price.htm



Do it just the same way that the page says. Yes, the '99s have a phillips head diagnostic screw, not a flathead.
Thanks
Old 04-09-2009 | 05:15 PM
  #3238  
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Seafoaming

Has anyone heard of seafoaming a car? if so what does it do?
Old 04-09-2009 | 05:24 PM
  #3239  
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Originally Posted by Maximar
Has anyone heard of seafoaming a car? if so what does it do?
Seriously? Again, read the first post.

Originally Posted by phenryiv1
One more reminder: THIS IS NOT A SUBSTITUTE FOR SEARCHING!!!
Now, from a 3 second search:
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http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hlight=seafoam
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...hlight=seafoam

And that's just from the first 2 and a half pages...
Old 04-09-2009 | 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Maximar
Has anyone heard of seafoaming a car? if so what does it do?
Nope. Never heard of it.

Please use the free


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