So are you trying to throw a sim in, or replace the O2, or...

Isn't that item 12 on FA-20? Looks like all the torque specs you need are on that page. Just pay attention to the key, generally the last number is ft/lbs.

 

I was looking at that page, but I can't seem to find that bolt

 

Could anyone continue to help with my question on the previous page?

 

Did you ask another question? I don't see any

 

Ah i asked what could be the reason that they are grinding like that and what could i do to fix it

 

yea, I was plannin on just throwin a resistor in there to basically sim the O2 but the main issue is that I haven't had time and still wont have time to jack up my car to see exactly what I need to do and just wanted to be prepared... Am I missing something?

 

You can't just use a resistor, the value the O2 sensor reads must change, if only a little. You could use a resistor for the heater, but you'd need the correct type and resistance, not to mention a small heatsink.

IMO, just get an O2 sim and a heater sim and be done with it.

That's why I love the '95 ECUs, they don't give a damn about emissions components.

 

Hey guys,

I've been trying to fix a misfire on my car here lately. I replaced the plugs but that didn't fix the problem. So I bought a coil pack because I figured it was one that was going out. I don't have a SES light, should I have one if a coil pack is bad? or will they sometime not throw one?
Anyways so I bought this ignition coil from ebay which said it was a right bank long boot. I went to install it on my car and noticed it's about an inch longer then my other rear coils are. I tried to install it yet it would never press all the way down since the rubber boot is so long.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nissa...ht_3177wt_1014

Shouldn't this coil fit my car it says it's for 96-99 i30's and I have a 98 I30T, or did I somehow buy the wrong one?

 

Interesting that they specify 'long boot'.

Have you tested your coils? Tested injectors? Determined which cylinder is missing?

Search, you'll find how to do all three of those.

 

wow, howd i forget that... thanks

 

does anyone know if it's possibe (and if so, how easy?) to switch out the auto tranny on my GXE for a manual? i've heard that there might be some problems with the bell0housing, but i'm not sure.

 

Hmm.

I don't think that's ever been considered before. If you do it, you'd be the first.

Tell you what, read the very first post of this thread:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...e-posting.html
Alright, now that we've got that taken care of.

Next up, we actually go ahead and read the stickies, as we should before asking any question:
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...e-updated.html
Now had you actually had the common sense to search, it's not like the org is sparse on these threads:
http://forums.maxima.org/search.php?searchid=466567

Failing the knowledge to click a 'search' button on the org, you surely know how to use google:
http://tinyurl.com/ps9a5n



So do you happen to have any other questions that have been beaten to death and beyond for us, or was that it?


Long story short: should you actually search, you'll find all the info you need on all the questions you have.

If you don't search, you won't have a very nice time here.

 

New Question: I have a 99 i30t. I went out of town for a week and apparently there were some really bad storms. When I got back I noticed the stereo does not turn on and the antenna doesn't raise. The clock, A/C, heating all seem to work fine. I checked the fuses inside and both the audio and bose unit fuses seem to be intact.

I browsed the forums but couldn't find anything to answer my question directly, if it has been answered please direct me to that link. I found the Bose radio replacement thread that was helpful but I'm not certain if my head unit has died. Any idea what the problem is or how to fix it?

Thanks.

 

Hello everyone. My oil pan is a little rusty. I'm just wondering if it's worth trying to sand the rust off and put some rust-oleum or por15 (if I really have to) or should I just grab a new pan. Would the rust-oleum hold up to that kind of assault, facing the road and everything? Would I have to get high heat stuff? I'd go with por15 but spray paint is a little cheaper. Any feedback would be great. Thanks!

 

Did you check just those fuses, or all of them? If the former, check all the fuses. Every fuse controls multiple systems, that may or may not be intuitively labeled.

Painting it would be fine, many have done that. A replacement wouldn't be that expensive either.

If you do just paint it and put it back on, make sure you pound the mating flange flat before putting it back on.

 

I checked about 1/3rd of them, as well as a few from under the hood. I'll check again tomorrow when it gets light out and post again.

 

Would I have to replace the gasket and do the rtv? or just flatten it out?
Thanks for your help.

 

No gasket on the lower pan, purely RTV. You'd need to clean up the mating surface on both the lower pan and the upper pan, then reapply some RTV.

 

TACH SWAP QUESTION-
Have an SE cluster I'd like to swap into my GLE (both 96). However, the tach on the SE cluster appears to be pooched. Will not go above 1500 rpm. Was going to swap faces and use my tach with the SE's white face but this will require pulling the needles. My question is will I need to recalibrate the tach. Is the procedure the same as for the speedo ie: pull the needle stop and turn ccw until resistance is felt to find the calibration point?

As for pulling the needle itself - do I need to be turning the needle and lifting or just pull it off?

Also, the black-faced gauges are screwed on from the front and the whites from the rear. Is this going to cause any drama?

 

I bought my 99 SE less than a year ago. For the second time now the immobilizer has malfunctioned, leaving me stranded. I have read that this is pretty common with the 99's. I had it towed to the nissan dealer for reprogramming the first time. Hasn't yet been towed this go around. Is there something that triggers this? Is this something that will keep on randomly happening? Other than this problem, I love the car. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

Rear corner bulb replacement question!

I've been looking over the service manual but for the life of me, I can't figure out where the instructions are for replaceing the rear corner bulb near the power antenna. Does anyone know the page or do I go at it from the interior of the trunk (by removing the lining)? Thanks.

 

I pulled every fuse I could find today both in the box next to the steering wheel and under the hood (in the long rectangular box above the driver side wheel). When I finished I went back inside and the head unit had every light on. The antenna also went up when I turned the car on. None of the buttons worked and when I pulled the key out the head unit still displayed every single light, so I went back fuse by fuse to see if any of them had an effect. I started with the audio inside then the audio under the hood, and when I pulled the one under the hood and put it back in I got nothing. I tried switching it with other fuses a few times but could never get anything else from the head unit.

I'm somewhat optimistic about getting a little life out of the system but i still have no idea what it is. Any ideas? Thanks.

 

I just had my 99 SE towed to the nissan dealer after the immobilizer left me stranded for the second time in less than a year. They reprogrammed the keys and got it running, but they said i need a new ecm ($900) to permanantly fix the problem. Anyone know any other options? Can i get a new ecm somewhere else for cheaper?

 

Remove the lining of the trunk behind the lense/bulb needing to be replaced. You will need a phillips screw driver to remove the little plastic type screws that holds the liner in place.

 

Have you checked the classifieds here? Checked eBay? Junkyards? car-part?

There are many places to get an ECU, not just the dealer...

Welcome to the wonderful world of the '99s and NATS issues.

Just remember you're going to need to go back and pay to reprogram again when you get the new ECU.

 

That's...interesting.

I'd be inclined to believe that head unit is just toast, really. I'd probably take it apart and take a look.

Just to make sure, have you checked the connections on the back of the unit itself?

 

Did Nissan come out with a new bug free ecm for the '99s? The mechanic at the dealer showed me the part# I have now and the replacement part#. I didn't write it down but can call and get it. Will I have trouble getting this exact part or does it have to be exact. I looked on car-parts.com and noticed some came up thru 9/98 and some from 10/98. Can I tell from my VIN which one I have? Thanks, you have been a major help this past year!

 

Yes, either the VIN (if you want to post here, or PM), or the sticker in the driver's door jamb.

With your VIN I can show you exactly which ECU you'd need for your car.

 

Got it, you can delete it now if you'd prefer.

Do you have TCS?

According to FAST, The original ECU split was 06/98-10/98, and 10/98+. However the revised numbers all run together, so any of them should work just fine.

 

I do not have TCS. So I should be safe with any of these dates? I am a little confused with the revised numbers. What is FAST? Thanks!

 

FAST is the Nissan parts software you see them use at the dealership. All of the images on Courtesy's site are ripped straight out of FAST.

Yes, you should be fine with any ECU 06/98+. FAST shows the part numbers all supersede to the same PN:
23713-4L619, $880.57 each at Courtesy

Personally I've heard different things for all of the NATS failures on the '99s.

I notice Nissan's TSB on the subject (NTB00-019) shows either replacing the ECU or the NATS/IMMU control unit.

 

Thanks again! I'll keep you posted.

 

I take back my earlier statement that I was getting spark. I checked the 3 front plugs and none are getting spark when the engine is cranked. I'm not sure about the back 3 yet.

I'm not getting any CEL after cranking for a while.

I checked the continuity of all the fuses and they all seem to be ok.

I am getting a strange buzzing sound when the key is turned to the acc position or when the screw on the ECM is turned. It sounds like the buzzing is coming from near the throttle body area.

I am getting fuel and confirmed that the injectors are getting a pulse when the engine is cranked.

 

You're likely just hearing the IACV doing it's thing.

First thing to check, are the coils getting power? I'd also check continuity for the signal wire back to the ECU.

Have you double checked both CKPS' and the CPS? Check the sensors, check continuity on the wiring.

 

To check if the coils are getting power I need to check voltage at the plug while the engine is cranking right?

Where is the signal wire located?

I did double check both CKPS sensors and was getting the 0407 code for the ref one. I replaced that one. Where is the CPS? Wouldn't I get a code if there was a problem with these?

 

No, just make sure they're getting B+ on the red wire (pin 1) and a good ground on the black wire (pin 2). Reminds me, a good thing to check are the two ground screws on the front of the LIM:


The signal wire is pin 3, a different color for each coil. Y/R, G/R, LR, GY, PU/W, and GY/R for 1-6, respectively.

You wouldn't necessarily get a code from any of them.

CPS location:

 

What do you mean by "B+" on the red wire?

I checked two ground screws on LIM and all seems good.

You mean the signal wire on each coil is PIN #3 and I would check the continuity?

 

B+ == battery voltage.

Yes, test continuity on that signal wire from the coil to the ECU (only really matters if they are getting power, and you've done all the other tests).

I made some ECU pinouts here: http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...0-px-wide.html

 

I also replaced the ignition cyl because it was jammed solid and keys wouldn't turn. I don't know if this is related or not, should have mentioned it sooner.

 

I'm not sure I'm following you on this signal wire test. Could you maybe walk me thru it a bit since I've never done something like this with the "pinout".

Also, should the CamPS have continuity at the wire end across the two wires from harness?