NOOBIES: "I AM NEW HERE BUT HAVE A QUESTION" thread. Read FIRST post BEFORE posting!
#3801
Hey, I have a 1995 Maxima. My engine is misfiring and I found the 2 cylinders that are doing it. The spark plugs are relatively new and I tried changing out the ignition coils. But this did nothing. One of the spark plugs looked fine but the other was a little wet and black. it does not smell like gasoline. The engine light is on but no one seems to have a computer to read it. Anyone know what might be the problem?
What do you mean no one can read the codes? No one has an OBD-II code reader or scanner around your area? That's rather hard to believe. Even Autozone/Advance will check them for free.
Not to mention if you read the stickies, you could just check them yourself...
#3802
autozone and another mechanic said that the OBD-II wont work for my car. And the on-board diagnostic system gves me the code that says it does not recognize the problem. If you count the cylinders from the right, it's the third (front cylinder) and 4th (back cylinder). i apologize, im not familiar with mechanic terms.
#3804
autozone and another mechanic said that the OBD-II wont work for my car. And the on-board diagnostic system gves me the code that says it does not recognize the problem. If you count the cylinders from the right, it's the third (front cylinder) and 4th (back cylinder). i apologize, im not familiar with mechanic terms.
You're not getting a 1010, you're reading it incorrectly. That, or your ECU is screwed up.
Can you point the cylinders out here? Front indicates where the crank pulley is, at the passenger side of the engine bay.
#3810
Hey wassup guys quick question for you:
Does anybody have a schematic of which fluids goes to where?
I know it may sound really stupid, but for some odd reason the fluid caps in my maxima are written in japanese ()
The fluid above the wiper one is slightly below the low level line, i want to fill it back up to avoid future problems.
I hope it is the brake fluid like i suspect because my pads are really due for a change.
Thanks guys
Does anybody have a schematic of which fluids goes to where?
I know it may sound really stupid, but for some odd reason the fluid caps in my maxima are written in japanese ()
The fluid above the wiper one is slightly below the low level line, i want to fill it back up to avoid future problems.
I hope it is the brake fluid like i suspect because my pads are really due for a change.
Thanks guys
#3811
Hey wassup guys quick question for you:
Does anybody have a schematic of which fluids goes to where?
I know it may sound really stupid, but for some odd reason the fluid caps in my maxima are written in japanese ()
The fluid above the wiper one is slightly below the low level line, i want to fill it back up to avoid future problems.
I hope it is the brake fluid like i suspect because my pads are really due for a change.
Thanks guys
Does anybody have a schematic of which fluids goes to where?
I know it may sound really stupid, but for some odd reason the fluid caps in my maxima are written in japanese ()
The fluid above the wiper one is slightly below the low level line, i want to fill it back up to avoid future problems.
I hope it is the brake fluid like i suspect because my pads are really due for a change.
Thanks guys
Above the wiper?
Here's a question? Does this 'thing' have brake lines coming out of it? The answer you give is also the answer to whether or not it holds brake fluid...
Don't just top it off, find why it's low. If it is the brake fluid then correct, most likely your pads are worn down.
#3812
Ok, so I removed my old stock Panasonic rear deck speakers and purchased new infinity 3 1/2s only problem is that the plug in the back doesn't match up, on the infinity speakers there are two metal rings (for the 2 wires in the harness I'm guessing) but I don't know which goes where, and how to hook it up, any hints? I've looked at guides but they got nothing on installation.
#3813
Ok, so I removed my old stock Panasonic rear deck speakers and purchased new infinity 3 1/2s only problem is that the plug in the back doesn't match up, on the infinity speakers there are two metal rings (for the 2 wires in the harness I'm guessing) but I don't know which goes where, and how to hook it up, any hints? I've looked at guides but they got nothing on installation.
#3814
OH, and to answer Ultrastar's question, Seeing that the yellow cap reservoir right behind the wiper fluid is Coolant, and its written in english, Im assuming its the black capped one, and its most probably the power steering fluid. The brake fluid is on the upper right side of the engine bay.
#3815
OH, and to answer Ultrastar's question, Seeing that the yellow cap reservoir right behind the wiper fluid is Coolant, and its written in english, Im assuming its the black capped one, and its most probably the power steering fluid. The brake fluid is on the upper right side of the engine bay.
Ah, he's talking about the washer fluid reservoir, I thought he meant the wiper blades. In that case yes, PS fluid.
#3816
New to the forum and had a question. I have a 1997 Nissan Maxima that was having issues with rough idling and stalling out so I took it to a mechanic. After looking at the car the mechanic determined that there were several wires in the wiring harness that were damaged and recommended a new wiring harness. The initial estimate for replacing the harness was around 1700, but he said he could put a used wiring harness from a salvage yard for $400, so I decided to go that route instead.
After installing the used wiring harness, although power was going to all of the electrical components in the car, there is no spark going to the spark plugs and now the car will not start at all. Hes looked over the car for a few days now and cant seem to figure it out. He also took the car to Nissan to have them diagnose it and they cant seem to figure it out either. The only suggestion he has now is that perhaps the used wiring harness is not good and a brand new harness will resolve the issue. What do you think?
After installing the used wiring harness, although power was going to all of the electrical components in the car, there is no spark going to the spark plugs and now the car will not start at all. Hes looked over the car for a few days now and cant seem to figure it out. He also took the car to Nissan to have them diagnose it and they cant seem to figure it out either. The only suggestion he has now is that perhaps the used wiring harness is not good and a brand new harness will resolve the issue. What do you think?
#3817
Do I need to remove that plastic piece in order to get to the connector (pins) and how? Or do I need to take the middle screw out?
Anyone? Thanks.
#3818
New to the forum and had a question. I have a 1997 Nissan Maxima that was having issues with rough idling and stalling out so I took it to a mechanic. After looking at the car the mechanic determined that there were several wires in the wiring harness that were damaged and recommended a new wiring harness. The initial estimate for replacing the harness was around 1700, but he said he could put a used wiring harness from a salvage yard for $400, so I decided to go that route instead.
After installing the used wiring harness, although power was going to all of the electrical components in the car, there is no spark going to the spark plugs and now the car will not start at all. Hes looked over the car for a few days now and cant seem to figure it out. He also took the car to Nissan to have them diagnose it and they cant seem to figure it out either. The only suggestion he has now is that perhaps the used wiring harness is not good and a brand new harness will resolve the issue. What do you think?
After installing the used wiring harness, although power was going to all of the electrical components in the car, there is no spark going to the spark plugs and now the car will not start at all. Hes looked over the car for a few days now and cant seem to figure it out. He also took the car to Nissan to have them diagnose it and they cant seem to figure it out either. The only suggestion he has now is that perhaps the used wiring harness is not good and a brand new harness will resolve the issue. What do you think?
$400 for an engine control harness? Damn. You can get them at most yards for under $100.
If you have it in your possession, there are several checks you could do.
But first thing, and pretty important - codes?
#3819
I finally had more time to work on the car. I got to the A/T Control Unit, there's barely any room around it. The face is covered by a plastic piece (protector) and there's a screw right in the middle of the unit.
Do I need to remove that plastic piece in order to get to the connector (pins) and how? Or do I need to take the middle screw out?
Anyone? Thanks.
Do I need to remove that plastic piece in order to get to the connector (pins) and how? Or do I need to take the middle screw out?
Anyone? Thanks.
If you're testing for signals to/from the TCM, just pop off the plastic cover. If you're just testing continuity to the engine bay, it's a lot easier to unscrew that 10mm head bolt and pull the connector off.
#3820
Thanks for the quick reply!
Well...i would imagine it was $400 for parts & labor, so in that case then I guess i paid roughly around $100 for it. I dont know much about ECM codes, I'd have to ask him tomorrow.
The car is actually still at the Nissan dealership...hes paying for them to diagnose the issue but they've had the car for like 3 days and all they keep saying is that "they're working on it...."
Well...i would imagine it was $400 for parts & labor, so in that case then I guess i paid roughly around $100 for it. I dont know much about ECM codes, I'd have to ask him tomorrow.
The car is actually still at the Nissan dealership...hes paying for them to diagnose the issue but they've had the car for like 3 days and all they keep saying is that "they're working on it...."
#3821
Thanks for the quick reply!
Well...i would imagine it was $400 for parts & labor, so in that case then I guess i paid roughly around $100 for it. I dont know much about ECM codes, I'd have to ask him tomorrow.
The car is actually still at the Nissan dealership...hes paying for them to diagnose the issue but they've had the car for like 3 days and all they keep saying is that "they're working on it...."
Well...i would imagine it was $400 for parts & labor, so in that case then I guess i paid roughly around $100 for it. I dont know much about ECM codes, I'd have to ask him tomorrow.
The car is actually still at the Nissan dealership...hes paying for them to diagnose the issue but they've had the car for like 3 days and all they keep saying is that "they're working on it...."
#3822
While there was a TSB on wiring harness breakage where it wraps around the right hand strut tower, I've only seen maybe 1 or 2 actual cases of it.
$400 for an engine control harness? Damn. You can get them at most yards for under $100.
If you have it in your possession, there are several checks you could do.
But first thing, and pretty important - codes?
$400 for an engine control harness? Damn. You can get them at most yards for under $100.
If you have it in your possession, there are several checks you could do.
But first thing, and pretty important - codes?
#3823
Unless it's physically damaged, they're generally fine. Not too common for major issues (on these, anyway) unlike the older 80's Nissans or Toyotas with the wire insulation breakage all over the place.
#3824
Well initially when he called the dealership they said they would diagnose the issue first before recommending any work, and it was a flat rate of like $109...i'm just concerned that after 3 days even the dealership wont figure it out. But then again, considering that they have other cars to work on, they might only be looking at my car like an hour or 2 a day....
#3825
When he receieved the harness from the salvage yard he said that a few of the connectors were damaged but the wires seemed to be ok and that he could repair them. After installing it he said that there was power going to more things than there was when the old harness was connected.
Do you think that the damaged connectors might have something to do with this even though he said he repaired them?
#3826
Well the car was in an accident before and it caused the motor mounts to snap. He guessed that on impact the wiring harness was pinned/pressed against or the motor mounts snapped causing the motor to press against the harness.
When he receieved the harness from the salvage yard he said that a few of the connectors were damaged but the wires seemed to be ok and that he could repair them. After installing it he said that there was power going to more things than there was when the old harness was connected.
Do you think that the damaged connectors might have something to do with this even though he said he repaired them?
When he receieved the harness from the salvage yard he said that a few of the connectors were damaged but the wires seemed to be ok and that he could repair them. After installing it he said that there was power going to more things than there was when the old harness was connected.
Do you think that the damaged connectors might have something to do with this even though he said he repaired them?
Also note that different year harnesses have slightly different pinouts, especially at the connectors that go to the fuse box.
#3827
Ok well would a wiring harness for any 1997 maxima work in my car or would I a harness from the exact same model? I think I have a GLE.
#3828
#3829
Oh ok. I'm not really sure what to do at this point...the mechanic is kind of convinced that putting in a new wiring harness will do the job although we're still waiting for Nissan to get back to us.
Another thing...the Nissan tech's told me the other day that they were trying to trace the issue and that there were alot of spliced/patched wires in the care and that it was making it difficult to trace the issue. I guess thats a possibility although it never stopped the old harness from starting up.
Another guy I know suggested that maybe the ECM needs to be programmed to recognize the new harness...do you think that might be it?
#3830
Oh ok. I'm not really sure what to do at this point...the mechanic is kind of convinced that putting in a new wiring harness will do the job although we're still waiting for Nissan to get back to us.
Another thing...the Nissan tech's told me the other day that they were trying to trace the issue and that there were alot of spliced/patched wires in the care and that it was making it difficult to trace the issue. I guess thats a possibility although it never stopped the old harness from starting up.
Another guy I know suggested that maybe the ECM needs to be programmed to recognize the new harness...do you think that might be it?
Another thing...the Nissan tech's told me the other day that they were trying to trace the issue and that there were alot of spliced/patched wires in the care and that it was making it difficult to trace the issue. I guess thats a possibility although it never stopped the old harness from starting up.
Another guy I know suggested that maybe the ECM needs to be programmed to recognize the new harness...do you think that might be it?
#3831
Well lets see...to my knowledge, the following things have been replaced on the car during this repair:
-Mass Air Flow Sensor
-3 Motor Mounts
-Engine wiring harness
The mechanic changed the MAF first, and thought the car ran better it was still stalling out. At that point he then replaced the motor mounts and the engine wiring harness, and it was at that point that the car would not get any spark to the spark plugs...could it be something related to the replaced MAF?
#3832
Yeah thats what I thought...would be nice if it was as easy as that.
Well lets see...to my knowledge, the following things have been replaced on the car during this repair:
-Mass Air Flow Sensor
-3 Motor Mounts
-Engine wiring harness
The mechanic changed the MAF first, and thought the car ran better it was still stalling out. At that point he then replaced the motor mounts and the engine wiring harness, and it was at that point that the car would not get any spark to the spark plugs...could it be something related to the replaced MAF?
Well lets see...to my knowledge, the following things have been replaced on the car during this repair:
-Mass Air Flow Sensor
-3 Motor Mounts
-Engine wiring harness
The mechanic changed the MAF first, and thought the car ran better it was still stalling out. At that point he then replaced the motor mounts and the engine wiring harness, and it was at that point that the car would not get any spark to the spark plugs...could it be something related to the replaced MAF?
Without knowing if he's tested both CKPS' and the CPS, checked the wiring for them, checked the engine grounds, signal plates, etc there's really no telling what the problem might be. Especially the codes, they will often point you in the right direction.
#3833
No, the MAF isn't likely your issue.
Without knowing if he's tested both CKPS' and the CPS, checked the wiring for them, checked the engine grounds, signal plates, etc there's really no telling what the problem might be. Especially the codes, they will often point you in the right direction.
Without knowing if he's tested both CKPS' and the CPS, checked the wiring for them, checked the engine grounds, signal plates, etc there's really no telling what the problem might be. Especially the codes, they will often point you in the right direction.
Oh Ok i'll have to ask if any codes are being returned...and these would be codes returned by the ECM? Also what are the CKPS & CPS?
#3834
That pic was just to show the location, if you pull out the center stack (radio, vents, etc) then you can remove the 3 10mm head nuts, pull the BCM out of the way, and the TCM just lifts right out. Much easier.
If you're testing for signals to/from the TCM, just pop off the plastic cover. If you're just testing continuity to the engine bay, it's a lot easier to unscrew that 10mm head bolt and pull the connector off.
If you're testing for signals to/from the TCM, just pop off the plastic cover. If you're just testing continuity to the engine bay, it's a lot easier to unscrew that 10mm head bolt and pull the connector off.
I was gonna test the signals to/from TCM, but than I figured if the thing needs to be replaced, I might as well try to have full access to it.
Is $450 a good price in case I need a new one (oem)?
#3835
I was actually trying to remove the whole center stack, but I got stuck after removing the plastic cover, ashtray and the 2 screws that hold the lower part of the piece directly above the ashtray. The FSM doesn't have step by step instructions on how to remove the whole thing. I'll try again tomorrow.
I was gonna test the signals to/from TCM, but than I figured if the thing needs to be replaced, I might as well try to have full access to it.
Is $450 a good price in case I need a new one (oem)?
I was gonna test the signals to/from TCM, but than I figured if the thing needs to be replaced, I might as well try to have full access to it.
Is $450 a good price in case I need a new one (oem)?
http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...e-bose-hu.html and etc
$450...ouch. You can get them in junkyards all the time for $30 or less, I would never buy a brand new one. Check out the various threads in the classifieds, you'll get one for a lot cheaper.
#3836
#3837
OH, and to answer Ultrastar's question, Seeing that the yellow cap reservoir right behind the wiper fluid is Coolant, and its written in english, Im assuming its the black capped one, and its most probably the power steering fluid. The brake fluid is on the upper right side of the engine bay.
Originally Posted by pmohr
Ah, he's talking about the washer fluid reservoir, I thought he meant the wiper blades. In that case yes, PS fluid.
ok last newbie question, if we take a look at this pic:
Where is the transmission fluid then
its probably going to be extremely obvious, but when i open my hood i only see 4 fluid reservoirs...
#3838
Ah yes, its the black capped one, thanks fishburn!
hahaha, yeah, sorry bout that, i gotta admit "above the wiper" is pretty confusing, washer fluid reservoir sounds more like it
ok last newbie question, if we take a look at this pic:
Where is the transmission fluid then
its probably going to be extremely obvious, but when i open my hood i only see 4 fluid reservoirs...
hahaha, yeah, sorry bout that, i gotta admit "above the wiper" is pretty confusing, washer fluid reservoir sounds more like it
ok last newbie question, if we take a look at this pic:
Where is the transmission fluid then
its probably going to be extremely obvious, but when i open my hood i only see 4 fluid reservoirs...
#3840
No, the MAF isn't likely your issue.
Without knowing if he's tested both CKPS' and the CPS, checked the wiring for them, checked the engine grounds, signal plates, etc there's really no telling what the problem might be. Especially the codes, they will often point you in the right direction.
Without knowing if he's tested both CKPS' and the CPS, checked the wiring for them, checked the engine grounds, signal plates, etc there's really no telling what the problem might be. Especially the codes, they will often point you in the right direction.
I then told him that the salvaged wiring harness used in the car had a few bad connections but the mechanic i used said he could repair them, to which he then replied that the repaired connections in the wiring harness might be the issue. What do you think?