Finally got a chance to look under my car today after getting the 3 codes one for the evap and the 2 sensors ...i went under my car near the drivers back wheel ,near the fuel line and evap /hose (pardon my lack of terms) and i adjusted a wire near it because the wire looked a little loose ..so i just pushed the wire up more and then turned on my car and BOOM my check engine light was gone??

very weird ,could that of been my problem with the codes?? just some lose wires?? throwing out codes for me?? im not even sure what wire i adjusted lol

made a video of under my hood ..so you guys can hear the little rattle tick noise i hear...and you can see black stained on the exhaust manifold..could there of been a gasket leak or is there a problem with the manifold..or is that typical?


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FnjmYlGU2eY

let me know if anything sounds out of the norm .. the 2nd belt that is next to the chain belt is a bit rusty? you can see me lean in towards it ..but i watched the video myself and the noise coming from the audio is a bit misleading the car is pretty silent but i hear what could be a little tick and the actual engine shakes a tad bit..


cold start screech also video coming soon. time for the a/c belt or to adjust the pullys??
again pardon my lack of car knowledge just going off of the little i know..figured a video would be the best bet.

updated vid

http://youtu.be/FnjmYlGU2eY

 

Service engine light on. Had scanner hooked up and it says P0153 2/1 oxygen sensor and a knock sensor code. Rode with the scanner hooked up and the fuel trim levels look good and the it shows the knock sensor working fine according to the readings. Can the KS be a false code due to bad O2 sensor? I am going to replace both upstream O2 sensors. Figured since I am doing one might as well replace both.

 

We refer to the knock sensor code as a ghost code because it shows up with almost every other code. The standard advice is the fix the other problem(s) an see if the knock sensor code goes away. If you were to get the knock sensor code by itself, it does not cause the check engine light to come on.

 

hey dennis when you get a chance can you check my post and vid...you helped me alot last time ..

thanks bro

 

Need help, I have the opportunity to purchase a 95 maxima se with 151k miles. The interior is excellent with a few scratches on the body. The asking price is 3,999. Is this a good deal? What should concern me the most?

 

Don't want to make you feel like this is a bad deal, but I got my 98 SE with 187k on the clock for $800. Only 1 area of minor rust to the body near right rear wheel well, otherwise body is in great shape. Needed $1000 in maintenance repairs, now runs perfectly. Everything on the inside is in good shape and works as it should. So that is $2000 less than the asking price of a car that is 3 years older, although has a few less miles.

To me, sounds like too much for a 16 year old car. Just my opinion though.

 

also got my 98 i30 silver/blk ,mint interor no rips ,minor bumper wear that will cost me 125 from a local shop to paint and the a few emission problems im trying to decipher ..might be as simple as some sensors

119k miles
$1800 after all registration/title/plates

putting a few hundred in to it and hopefully it last.

i kept looking for months .look and you shall fine great deals

the next day after i bought mine i seen a 99 loaded max with 104k for 2499$

and a 98 white i30 with 99k in mint condition loaded for 2200 from a kid in a local neighborhood

 

Driver side power window clicks non stop, even the switch is not touched. The window will not response to the switch. Please help.

 

Is this possible to swap a 3rd gen 5spd into my 95, (5spd 4th gens are scarce at best around here) or just not worth my time?

Im driving an AT 95, the trans in question is from a 93

 

I watched the video but I don't have any idea of what the noise is from. Someone who has tore the engine down would have to try and help you.

Sorry

 

ok anything sound out of the norm to you?? like i said initially the noise when i zoom is a bit misleading the recording on my phone has a tight frequency range and pick up it does not really sound like a age old roller coaster just more off a rusty belty scrape noise....and also the front exhaust manifold stains ...could there of been an exhaust leak or is that anti freeze leak or just oil leak that left the stains?? based off observation

 

Ok, I have taken my 95 GLE to the shop and gotten the codes....Cyl 6 Misfire and O2 sensor. I have replaced the coil for cyl 6. Now its time for O2 sensor replacement. Can someone point me in the right direction with a link or something so i can see how all this is done? Thanks in advance.

 

which O2 sensors bank one or bank 2 removal is pretty easy u can buy a O2 sensor tool from any auto part store for cheap

 

I think I hear a light ticking noise, almost like a valve lifter, that I feel is not normal. When you moved over to the right (the passenger side) another noise was more noticable, what you may be describing as a scraping sound. This could be the alternator belt tensioning pulley having a bad bearing. Also on that side of the engine is the timing chain. Whether this could be making the noise, I don't know.

I see oil seepage on the lower part of the upper intake manifold that is probably coming from the valve cover. I feel this is normal after 10 years. What I question is around the oil filler cap. This is either spillage from adding oil or the rubber o-ring on the filler cap is damaged.

I can't see any stains on the exhaust manifold. When my radiator leaked, the antifreeze left light gray stains on the engine, somewhat like mud.

 

video of me under the car http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nt28EN7v6cQ

@13 seconds and 21 seconds and 50 seconds is the wire i fixed 3 days ago to get the cel off ...but after 3 days the engine light came back

 

I have a 96 I30, and the tubing and air box that goes from the filter housing to the throttle body is pretty cracked and it needs to be replaced. I have no idea what the part is called and also was wondering if i could just replace it with just regular hosing?

Sorry I know i sound pretty dumb because i don't know much about cars but help would be much appreciated!!

 

Hello again everyone! I have a couple questions.

We figured out what was making the water leak from the radiator... there was a crack in the radiator that my dad spotted, so I guess we'll be replacing it.

Now to my questions:

1.) My dad just replaced the brake pads for the front wheels, and now the brake petal needs to be pressed hard and goes far down in order for the car to break. To try to fix this, my dad took off one of the front wheels and unscrewed some nut that was on the brakes, and then told me to pump the brake petal and then to hold it. Some oil came out from that unscrewed nut, and then he put the wheel back on. However, it did not fix the petal depression problem by enough, only slightly. How can we fix this?

2.) About the issue of high gas consumption: my dad said our car was getting only 16mpg, so he went and unscrewed some screw under the hood which is supposed to let more air into the engine. He claims that fixed the problem of high gas consumption. Did he do the right thing? Is it safe to unscrew that screw?

3.) Our car has 100K miles and never had it's spark plugs replaced. Do we have to replace them if they are still working? Could old spark plugs cause high gas consumption?

4.) My dad also suspects that the fuel injectors need replacement. I dunno why he says that because I don't see fuel injector replacement on the maintenance schedule in the Maxima manual. Could fuel injectors be cause of unusually high gas consumption?

 

Now for some answers.

1) You have air in the brake lines. What you dad did was bleed the brake line and that is the correct thing to do. But you only mentioned doing it to one wheel. It needs to be done to both wheel cylinders.

2) I don't know what screw your dad could have turned. I also don't know of any screw that could help for low gas mileage.

3) The spark plugs should be replaced every 60,000 miles. Worn out spark plugs can reduce your gas mileage, but I don't think this is the main cause of your fuel consumption problem.

4) Fuel injectors are not a maintenance item that are replaced on a regular schedule. Could they cause your problem? Yes. Do I think that this is your problem? No. When a fuel injector goes bad, you will know you have a problem. Odds of all 6 needing to be replaced, let's just say you have a better chance of winning the lottery.

Get the spark plugs replaced. Inspect the electrodes of the old plugs. The color should be a light tan if everything is working right. If a cylinder is burning too much gas or burning oil, the color will be black. It's kind of rare to have a problem with all 6 cylinders burning too much gas. On or two is more likely.

Over all, there is not enough information for me to go on. The ECTS (Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor) could be bad. Is the check engine light on? Does the check engine light light up when the key is turned on and you haven't started the car yet? Does the engine both idle and drive smoothly? How you drive the car affects fuel mileage. My wife gets 21+ mpg driving my car. I get 17. But I don't drive like a little old lady.

 

Hi everyone,

I have a couple of questions.

Yesterday, I was driving down the highway when all of a sudden my car started slowing down. The only other time that's happened to me was when I had an alternator/battery issue, but this doesn't appear to be related. Trying to give it more gas made the car stutter a bit so I pulled over. I made sure it wasn't the battery or alternator and restarted the car. It started fine so I headed to the nearest gas station. At first things were normal, but then it appeared to have trouble with the gears. The O/D light flashed for a bit. I ran it in OD and the car seemed to run better for a little while. Then it shut off on me again. I rolled the car off the road. There was a burnt smell and a little smoke coming from under the hood. It wasn't very much smoke and I couldn't tell exactly where it was coming from. I figure my transmission is shot.

Got 3 codes; two for the knock sensor (which I thought was weird at first because the check engine light hadn't come up, but if this transmission issue caused the code then its the first drive cycle and that's why the light hasn't come on yet.) and P0732- Incorrect Gear 2 Ratio. Anything else that might cause these symptoms and codes?

If it is my transmission, how much can I expect it to cost to replace?

 

I have a hose by the MAP sensor that isn't connected to anything, and I have a sensor that also isn't connected to anything. I took a few pictures in hope that someone will recognize where they go and what they affect. I have two pictures for the hose and two for the sensor, but I want to add that I failed emissions with P0600 Serial Communication Link (Auto Transmission Control Unit Signal to ECU), P0720 Output Speed Sensor Circuit, and P0105 MAP Sensor. I also failed for some other things (P0325 Knock Senor and P0155 Upstream O2 Sensor), but I don't think those things related to the disconnected hose or sensor.

From the time I failed emissions, I've replaced the Revolution Sensor (Output Speed Sensor Circuit) since the wire was cut on my original one. I just ran the codes and all of the same ones came back, so I assume that the disconnected sensor plays a role in both Serial Communication Link (P0600) and the Revolution Sensor (P0720). If you look at the picture of the disconnected senor, I want you to know that it's in the same harness that the Revolution Sensor is in, but I can't find where it goes and it's driving me crazy. Also, there is one black and one blue wire.

For the disconnected hose, I can't find anywhere that it would connect to. Since it's close to the MAP sensor, I assume it's part of the issue- but I've yet to change the MAP sensor because I want to solve this first.

I hope I provided enough information and thanks for any help...Here are the pics:

 

The knock sensor code is a strange thing. It will not cause the check engine light to come on. But the weird part is that if you get some other code, the knock sensor code will pretty much always accompany it. The thing to do is fix the other problems and the knock sensor code will probably be gone. It's possible for the knock sensor code to be legitimate, but 99.9% of the time it's not.

As to the transmission code, did you check the fluid level? It should be a bright red color and not have any odor of being burnt. An electrical solenoid may have burned. The Nissan service manual says that the P0732 code is probably a bad Shift Solenoid Valve B.

Getting a auto trans rebuilt will probably cost between $1500 and $2500. Again, that is for a full rebuild. If they fix only the solenoid, it would be a lot less. Most places will only do full rebuilds. Take the car to as many places as you can and get estimates. A lot of people will get a junk yard transmission and put it in instead of having theirs rebuilt. Much cheaper.

 

Generally speaking, when it starts throwing incorrect gear ratio codes along with driveability problems, the trans is past the point of a quick fix, requiring a rebuild. Been there, done that, 4 or 5 times over.

A used trans will be much cheaper than a rebuild, and is easily replaced with almost entirely basic hand tools.

The dangling sensor is the IAT, it should be installed in the snorkel:


The open hose there is just a trans breather hose, it's not to be connected to anything.

Did you clear the codes after replacing the revolution sensor? If you clear the codes and it comes back immediately, along with the P0600, I'd be betting on a damaged TCM harness. The P0600 will only be set for a bad TCM or bad/no communication between it and the ECU.

Are there any aftermarket electronics installed in that area (radio, something tapped off of the cigarette lighter, etc)?

The MAP sensor code could be caused by a number of things, but most likely is just a failing MAP sensor.

 

Does turning the screw on the ECU and recoding the codes clear the codes? Because that's what I did and I read that clears them too.

There's no aftermarket radio, but there isn't a cigarette lighter either, so that might be an issue.

 

By 'recoding' do you mean reading? If so, then no. There's reading the codes, then an extra step to clear them.

 

Yes I meant reading them. What's the step to clear them?

 

Watch this video, it's at the end.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AYrS...C2C64F&index=3

 

This brings up a question for me regarding the knock sensor. My local Nissan dealer, which was a complete joke by the way, I believe may have tried to scam money out of me.
I bought the car then took itto the dealer and paid the $165 for a complete check. The heck engine light was on when I took it in and I only had the #4 setting on the ac working. They came back and told me that the KS and rear O2 sensor were bad and needed to be replaced along with the ac blower motor. They then told me it would cost $1500 to fix those things. Never mind that they didn't tell me about the two bad rear calipers, the two broken tie rod ends or the two front warped rotors.

Anyway, I knew they were full of it. Fixed the ac blower motor piece under the glove box in 5 minutes and had the O2 sensor fixed and reset the codes. The check engine light hasn't come back on in nearly 1000 miles. I guess the knock sensor didn't need to be replaced, nor did I need to pay for 4 hours of labor they would have charged me???
Or should I replace the KS anyway? I know I can do it in half an hour. Just seems foolish to do it if the CEL isn't coming on? Any advice on this?

 

The KS code is a ghost code, it won't light the CEL.

 

In that case, the engine runs fine. Assuming I have a bad KS, what should I be listening for when it does go bad? In other words, will it be obvious once the KS goes bad?

 

The knock sensor detects the engine knocking or severe pinging. You could have the problem, but it will not turn on the check engine light as previously stated. You need to check the ecu for codes either by using an OBD scanner or making the SES flash any codes it may be storing.

If you don't know how to do that , watch this video -

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AYrS...C2C64F&index=3

 

Thank you very much. Cheers.

 

Background: I am on an extremely tight budget (3rd child on the way). I need to replace my exhaust from flex pipe to tail pipe. I would prefer OEM, but that is much more than I would like to spend. Can anyone suggest where I can get an exhaust system (close to stock) that is a direct replacement? Also, I would like all the parts to come with it. Thanks in advance.

 

I did a google search for "exhaust kit for maxima" and got some hits. I looked at two of the lower priced ones (approx $300) but they did not include the hangers.

 

Try your local muffler shops, like a "Super Muffler" here in Cali. I was able to get a complete system (not including headers of course) for $279 installed.

 

The guy estimated $1185 for a rebuild. However, he said I don't have transmission problems. He said I have a bad catalytic converter (main converter) and he would charge me $570 to replace parts and labor. Can a catalytic converter cause a P0732 (incorrect gear ratio) code? How common is it to see the P0732 code and not have transmission problems. While it seems it is a cheaper repair. I don't want to do it and find out it didn't fix my problem. Also, $570 seems a bit high to just swap out the converter. Isn't it easier just to swap it all out?

 

Catalytic converters are expensive things and repair shops tend to place a higher markup on a part than if you bought it in a store.

But the question of could the catalytic converter cause the P0732 code, I don't have enough experience to give a definite yes or no. There are oxygen sensor codes that a catalytic converter could cause, but a transmission code? I'm highly skeptical. Go get estimates at some other places.

 

1998 Maxima GXE
Car was working great. Today went to start car, turn the key nothing happens. Thinking battery. SO I try and jump start it still nothing. Weird thing is when I turn the key the clock goes out and the radio shuts off. Tried again with headlights on. Headlights and interior dome light stay bright. They don't dim at all. Just the clock and radio goes out. I am guessing that elimenates the battery. Checked the ignition fuse and it looks good. Any help is gratly appreciated as this is my families only transportation.

 

The clock and radio turning off is normal, as are the windshield wipers and a few other less noticable things.

It could be the 30 amp, under the hood fuse (next to the battery) labeled IGN SW.

It could also be the ignition switch itself. Sometimes turning the key fast and hard might make it start, but that's a small percentage. There are threads where people have removed the ignition switsh and shimmed the tab that turns it. I don't know if our search function has been fixed yet. I'll see if I can find one.

 

Thanks DennisMik you always seem to be a help when needed. I am guessing there is no way to confirm a bad ignition switch other then by replacing it? Can that fuse be found at a parts store or is it a dealer item? I just might replace it to be on the safe side. A fuse can't be that expensive.

 

The fuses under the hood are the same type as the ones under the dash, so you can get them at any parts store.

Without a wiring diagram and a voltmeter (or a test light), troubleshooting the ignition switch is difficult. A new ignition switch is under $40 at parts stores, and not that much more at a dealer.

Our search function is still down, but I did find a link on how to replace the ignition switch.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...l?ref=esp-link

The last photo shows Pmohr holding the ignition switch in his hand. You could use a screwdriver to turn it like the ignition key would, there is hardly any resistance. If the car were to start with a screwdriver, then you could shim the slot. Some people hahave used duct tape, some have used electrical. The trick is to not have a large amount of tape sticking out of the slot as it would get stuck on the other parts and pull out. I didn't watch the video, so I don't know if ther is any additional info in there. A word of caution about removing the screws that hold the ignition switch in. The wires on the back of the ignition switch are live, be careful not to touch them with the screwdriver.

A recommendation if you are going to be working on cars frequently. Get a voltmeter. So many things on our cars are electrical and you need to measure voltage or measure resistance. Don't go cheap and by a $5 voltmeter, it won't last. $20 - $25 will get you a decent meter that will last you for years.