I have no pressure when i push in the clutch until it is nearly at the floor. Also the pedal sticks down for a moment and does not spring back like it used to. What could this be caused by? SC MC?

 

Check the master and slave cyl, as well as the lines for leaks.

Search, we have had like 4 threads on this topic in the last few days.

 

ALL my fluids are at the correct levels. If it's the master cylinder does the transmission need to be dropped to replace it?

 

http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm

GO there and it will give you locations of everything and how to replace

 

Be sure your checking the clutch's master cylinder. It is no where near the transmission. It is located on the fire-wall, driver's side, beside the brake master, behind the strut. It only holds about 1/2 cup of brake fluid.

 

Its more than likely your master cylinder. Its a pain to get to the two bolts but thats about the only thing holding it on other than where its connected to the clutch. Pop that sucker out and fill it with fluid and pump it a few times to see if anything squirts out. If it does, keep doing it and see if it stops or if the amount of fluid coming out varies. I just finished a 5-speed swap and my master cylinder was shot and you seem to have the same symptoms as me. Like Big EEEE said its behind the drivers side strut next to the brake booster.

 

if fluid is fine, check the lower hose that connects to the slave. its under the air intake (if you have stock air intake) on top of the tranny facing the radiator. that hose has been known to 'sweat' hydro fluid. if its wet with dot3, replace it. Dealer part - or you can use a stainless steel line to replace all those hoses between slave and master cyl's. there might still be a GD on it.

 

mster slave cylinder?

 

its probably your rubber clutch line, common problem. It was for me. do a search for it.

 

did you just change the clutch? if so, you prob have air in the line. bleed the clutch line. ur gonna need another person to do it. i know there are directions in the haynes manual on how to do it. also, after you bleed the line, make sure the clutch pedal is the correct height from the floor. good luck

 

I was just about to suggest bleeding the clutch line. Takes 5 minutes and cannot hurt.

 

hahahahahhahahahahahahah look at that

 

Look at what?

 

i am looking, but i'm not sure i'm seeing...

 

Definately bleed the line. I had the same problem today and bleeding it did the trick, at least for now.

 

how many times do you "bleed" each hose?
Jae

 

You bleed the whole system once, that’s all lines at the same time. But you have to get all the air out of the system. If there is any air in the line, it will compress when you press the clutch pedal instead of compressing your pressure plate to disengage the clutch. Brake fluid is not compressible; therefore, all the pressure from the pedal goes to the pressure plate when you press the clutch pedal if there is no air in the line. If you have any air in your system/lines, then your clutch will feel mushy and may go to the floor without coming back out.

 

I'm sorry, I wasn't clear in my post. I meant to ask, how many times do you hold the clutch down and open the bleeder?
Jae

 

^^^^Until it has feedback on your foot....like bleeding our brakes....keep doing it until it feels good....good talk!

 

YEP, they are all right.Lost my cluthc the other day too, still in the process of finding and changing that hose next to the bleeder screw.

 

Bleed from the slave cylinder AND THE SECOND BLEEDER SCREW !!!

I was looking at another clutch thread yesterday. It led me to another site with a bleeding procedure which showed a second bleeder screw. I'm wondering if this is why some of us have had recurring clutch problems. This screw is not shown or mentioned in my FSM and I don't remember it in the Haynes manual either.

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/803

As you can see, the second bleeder screw is located near the top of the driver's side strut. It tees off of the main clutch line under the brake’s master cylinder. I guess this bleeder screw is up high to collect air from the system. After I bleed my system from this screw this afternoon I’m planning on no more clutch pedal problems.

 

Do you have an official FSM? I found the info in mine.
Jae

 

You are right...I was looking on CL-4...but now I see it on CL-6.

 

The diagram's pretty weird looking, and description isn't the greatest. At least u did it right.
And you're right, I looked up Chilton's and Mitchell and didn't see mention of the 2nd bleeder (or maybe I missed it too!)
Jae

 

JUST BOUGHT MY FIRST MAXIMA!!!I tink I have same problem. My cluch engages only when I press it all the way to the floor, also when Im in nutral and the cluch is not pressed there is a rotating sound, like someting is hitting something on every rothation, if i press the cluch in I hear it going away. Also the second gear grinds a little when the engine is hot and I also have to press the cluch all the way into the floor if I dont want to gring the gears. I checked the fluid level in master cyl. and its ok. I will bleed my lines today, ANY OTHER THOUGHTS. PLEASE HELP

 

I would definitely fix my clutch before I did anymore driving and grinding. Here is what I wish I had done from the start - Replace the master and slave cylinders with Nissan or with lifetime warranted replacement parts (Auto-zone). Replace the five factory hydraulic hoses with one hose going straight from the master to slave cylinder (There is probably a part # for this but I don’t have one). You may want to get a second opinion on my advice.

Then, be sure your noises are not axle problems before working on your tranny. Axles are not too difficult to replace (~$80 for an axle at the parts store and you can get lifetime warranty). Check with a trusted transmission shop and/or mechanic to be sure your not hearing axle problems that sound like transmission problems.

If you still have problems/noises, you could also see if there is any metal in the bottom of your transmission by draining it and slipping a small magnet into the bottom of the case through the hole where the reverse light switch comes out. Just hope the magnet comes out clean. If it comes out with metal fragments, you got problems.

If there is no metal you may just need a bearing or two and not a total rebuild. If you are uncomfortable pulling your transmission and taking the case off for a quick inspection, then ask your mechanic to let you inspect the transmission with him when he pulls the case off. I got a book at Barnes and Noble to educate myself on transmissions before dealing with repair shops. I told one repair shop about my noise (which was an axle problem) and he told me my transmission was toast. I think he just wanted my tranny since they are so rare. I finally took it to a friend of a friend and he replaced the input bearing for $150. If you do decide to take the case off for a quick inspection, don’t go pulling on the gears, bearings or shift levers. If you do not see any major defects, put the case right back on and take it to a shop and tell them what you found. If you see broken teeth on the gears or synchronizers, you may want to try to find another tranny.

PS: Invest in a Field Service Manual on CD or download it from phatg20 website.

 

For the record...I removed my second bleeder valve and its hose (which goes back to the first connector block under the brake master cylinder and I cannot figure out why there is a second bleeder with ~5 feet of pipe). When I pulled the clutch master cylinder I put my thumb over the hose connector and pushed the piston in and got pressure. Then, I put my thumb on the connector and pulled the piston out and felt a vacuum. So my master cylinder was not allowing my system to pump up. When I put the new master in, it pumped right up, bled, and works fine. Try this if your having clutch problems to identify a master cylinder problem.

MY THEORY: I'm guessing our clutch system gets equalized in the beginning. Then something happens much latter on like a leaky hose. We replace the hose and try to pump the system back up and bleed the hose but the little valve in the master cylinder barely works anymore since it has not had to do anything for years. So, you wind up with a clutch system that works sometimes.

Now, if I had the chance to do it over, I would just by the master cylinder repair kit from Nissan for a lot less money.

PS: I plugged the hole in the first connector block by soldering/brazing a BB in the bottom. Then I took a plug (brass fitting from ACE hardware – 3/8” I think) added Teflon tape and snugged it in the connector block tight. You could probably get buy with just using the brass fitting, but there will be a small pocket of air inside the hollow fitting which may or may not make a difference on clutch pressure.

So far…so good !

 

that grinding in neutral is a sign of bad bearings and possibly axles in your tranny. have it rebuilt. around $800-1000.