light chimer thingy......
07-30-2007, 12:24 PM
#1
light chimer thingy......
asked this a long time ago, but was never answered.
i basically fried the circuitry for the chime that goes off whenever u leave ur headlights on w/o the keys in (chime works but doesn't when connected). i kinda want it back b/c i always forget to turn em off every now and then. i also have aftermarket fogs which i forget to turn off sometimes.
i was thinking, buy one of those chimers at radio shack and wire it up somehow so they will go off like normal for BOTH FOGS and HEADLIGHTS.
anyone have any ideas on the wiring diagram?
i basically fried the circuitry for the chime that goes off whenever u leave ur headlights on w/o the keys in (chime works but doesn't when connected). i kinda want it back b/c i always forget to turn em off every now and then. i also have aftermarket fogs which i forget to turn off sometimes.
i was thinking, buy one of those chimers at radio shack and wire it up somehow so they will go off like normal for BOTH FOGS and HEADLIGHTS.
anyone have any ideas on the wiring diagram?
07-31-2007, 05:57 AM
#7
i know where it is. i unplugged it & plugged it back a million times, still doesn't work.
so i tested the chimer w/ a 12v battery to see if that worked, and it did last time i checked. so it has to be the wiring that short-circuited or something. i have no clue on how to fix that.
so i tested the chimer w/ a 12v battery to see if that worked, and it did last time i checked. so it has to be the wiring that short-circuited or something. i have no clue on how to fix that.
07-31-2007, 12:25 PM
#10
had a couple questions though.
what does J/B stand for?
and the for the fuse block, is it talkin about the one underneath the driver side? number 40 did not match up to a 7.5 fuse. maybe i counted wrong or looking at the wrong one...
what does J/B stand for?
and the for the fuse block, is it talkin about the one underneath the driver side? number 40 did not match up to a 7.5 fuse. maybe i counted wrong or looking at the wrong one...
07-31-2007, 12:32 PM
#11
J/B is for junction block( or maybe box) do you have the FSM they have a little guide for reading the FSM short codes...
got to phatg20.net and Download your FSM and open it up in acrobat. its really easy to use.. next thing you know you'll be changing all sorts of electrical things in the car..
got to phatg20.net and Download your FSM and open it up in acrobat. its really easy to use.. next thing you know you'll be changing all sorts of electrical things in the car..
07-31-2007, 12:51 PM
#12
Originally Posted by HomerMAC
J/B is for junction block( or maybe box) do you have the FSM they have a little guide for reading the FSM short codes...
got to phatg20.net and Download your FSM and open it up in acrobat. its really easy to use.. next thing you know you'll be changing all sorts of electrical things in the car..
got to phatg20.net and Download your FSM and open it up in acrobat. its really easy to use.. next thing you know you'll be changing all sorts of electrical things in the car..
couldn't find one on that website.
found another one on a diff website for a 98 maxima. downloaded it and gonna do sum reading. but are there any vast difference as far as ecu configuration/power supply routing between the 97 and 98?
07-31-2007, 01:08 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 547
Originally Posted by g4nismo
hey dark, do u have a FSM for a 97 that i can download or a website that provides it?
I think courtesyparts.com has FSM's for free you can download
EDIT: nevermind, those are the owners manuals DUH
07-31-2007, 06:36 PM
#15
ok, well i checked number 40 in the fuse block and the fuse was fine. its says in the FSM wiring diagram that the buzzer is connected to the fuse block through a 7.5A fuse, NO 40.
i also checked all the other ones as well. nothing blown. retested the stupid buzzer w/ a battery, works fine. what could make it not work??
i also checked all the other ones as well. nothing blown. retested the stupid buzzer w/ a battery, works fine. what could make it not work??
08-01-2007, 05:26 AM
#17
Originally Posted by g4nismo
hey dark, do u have a FSM for a 97 that i can download or a website that provides it?
08-01-2007, 05:29 AM
#18
Originally Posted by MOHFpro90
Did you trace all of the wires from the fuse box to the buzzer? Did you test to see if you are getting any voltage out of the signal inputs when you should be?
maybe i should if i wanna fix it.
my voltmeter broke, need to go buy a new one. so i don't know.
but if the voltage between the BCM terminal and ground is nonexistant, shouldn't that of blown a fuse or something? it says check the 7.5A number 12 in the fuse block. and like i said, i checked all that and there fine
so i'm guessing its the harness thats messed up.
08-01-2007, 05:30 AM
#19
Originally Posted by chillin014
thanks a lot! did a search but wonder why i didn't get anything...oh well
08-01-2007, 05:43 AM
#21
Originally Posted by chillin014
no prob, i also have a spare "chimer" box laying around if you need it. I want to wire up a different sound to mine actually...something creative.
hey, well i tried downloading the 97 fsm, and couldn't open it in adobe. says it was corrupted or something. dunno.
thanks, but the chimer box works fine.
08-01-2007, 07:10 AM
#23
Originally Posted by MOHFpro90
If you have some spare fuses, just touch the contacts of the input wires of the chimer. It should spark and pop the fuse if its getting current.
ahh, good idea. will try that after work.
so if its not getting current, then the buzzer connector must have a short or an open right? so replacing that should resolve it?
08-01-2007, 08:45 AM
#24
Ill have to look at it later. If its not getting current then it MIGHT be the connector. Ive been into electronics for about 4 years now and Ive never seen a connector just go bad over time.
If it is getting currect then you know that there is something wrong right around the buzzer. If its not getting current, the issue is further down the line.
If it is getting currect then you know that there is something wrong right around the buzzer. If its not getting current, the issue is further down the line.
08-01-2007, 09:44 AM
#25
Originally Posted by MOHFpro90
Ill have to look at it later. If its not getting current then it MIGHT be the connector. Ive been into electronics for about 4 years now and Ive never seen a connector just go bad over time.
If it is getting currect then you know that there is something wrong right around the buzzer. If its not getting current, the issue is further down the line.
If it is getting currect then you know that there is something wrong right around the buzzer. If its not getting current, the issue is further down the line.
i can't remember the specific detail b/c this happened like 3 years ago when i really didn't know much about stuff, esp electronics.
like i said, i seemed to have shorted something b/c i was messing around w/ the harness trying to figure out how i could connect another buzzer for the foglights. i dunno, i think i spliced in something to the orginal buzzer harness and it stopped working after that... made an ignorant mistake
08-01-2007, 06:57 PM
#28
Id say...cut, solder. Thats the best, most reliable way.
Oh, and yes, actually it was right around then, maybe 13. Ill be 17 in Sept. But anyway, I started working with RC cars, MOSFETs, resistors, plugs, lipo batts, li-ion batts, you name it...fun stuff. Started a Racing League, opened a store, and made some money. Until of course my hosting company went dead. Didnt have time to get it back up...
Oh, and yes, actually it was right around then, maybe 13. Ill be 17 in Sept. But anyway, I started working with RC cars, MOSFETs, resistors, plugs, lipo batts, li-ion batts, you name it...fun stuff. Started a Racing League, opened a store, and made some money. Until of course my hosting company went dead. Didnt have time to get it back up...
08-01-2007, 08:41 PM
#29
Originally Posted by MOHFpro90
Id say...cut, solder. Thats the best, most reliable way.
Oh, and yes, actually it was right around then, maybe 13. Ill be 17 in Sept. But anyway, I started working with RC cars, MOSFETs, resistors, plugs, lipo batts, li-ion batts, you name it...fun stuff. Started a Racing League, opened a store, and made some money. Until of course my hosting company went dead. Didnt have time to get it back up...
Oh, and yes, actually it was right around then, maybe 13. Ill be 17 in Sept. But anyway, I started working with RC cars, MOSFETs, resistors, plugs, lipo batts, li-ion batts, you name it...fun stuff. Started a Racing League, opened a store, and made some money. Until of course my hosting company went dead. Didnt have time to get it back up...
just cut right before the connector? i guess i'll try that. i don't wanna spend too much time tryin to figure out this stupid thing. if i can't get it after this, i quit.
i've got other things to figure out, like my O/D not working...
08-01-2007, 09:25 PM
#30
sorry for not getting back to you fast enough. Well you can cut the wire than splice it then use some crimps to hold the wires together than of course electrical tape it.
Also what do you mean your O/D is not working? LIke it stays on or just stays off?
Also what do you mean your O/D is not working? LIke it stays on or just stays off?
08-02-2007, 10:57 AM
#33
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=531547
from what people are sayin, i think its the harness thats gone bad or something loose within the wiring.
right now, i'm tryin to figure out if i can replace just the harness.
from what people are sayin, i think its the harness thats gone bad or something loose within the wiring.
right now, i'm tryin to figure out if i can replace just the harness.
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