Found Out
#1
that I have to replace my evaporative purge control valve. Tech said, at first the knock sensor was failing but he did a test on it and met the requirments. Then he found out it was the purge control valve that did not passed the test.
I was quoted to get it replace 270 for the parts and labor.
Is this resonable? or could I replaced it by myself?
What is longterm affect on the car? (The check engine light has been reseted).
THANKs
CHIGGARMAX
95 GXE w/ 48K & pesky purge control valve.
I was quoted to get it replace 270 for the parts and labor.
Is this resonable? or could I replaced it by myself?
What is longterm affect on the car? (The check engine light has been reseted).
THANKs
CHIGGARMAX
95 GXE w/ 48K & pesky purge control valve.
#2
Originally posted by CHIGGARMAX
that I have to replace my evaporative purge control valve. Tech said, at first the knock sensor was failing but he did a test on it and met the requirments. Then he found out it was the purge control valve that did not passed the test.
I was quoted to get it replace 270 for the parts and labor.
Is this resonable? or could I replaced it by myself?
What is longterm affect on the car? (The check engine light has been reseted).
THANKs
CHIGGARMAX
95 GXE w/ 48K & pesky purge control valve.
that I have to replace my evaporative purge control valve. Tech said, at first the knock sensor was failing but he did a test on it and met the requirments. Then he found out it was the purge control valve that did not passed the test.
I was quoted to get it replace 270 for the parts and labor.
Is this resonable? or could I replaced it by myself?
What is longterm affect on the car? (The check engine light has been reseted).
THANKs
CHIGGARMAX
95 GXE w/ 48K & pesky purge control valve.
The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve uses an on/off duty cycle to control the flow of fuel vapor from the EVAP canister. The CPVCSV is easy to see and reach. It is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the top of the upper intake manifold. Notice the Vehicle Serial number stamped into the firewall. Put your finger on the third-from-last number. Move your finger three inches toward the radiator. That's the CPVCSV. It has one two-wire electrical connector and two vacuum hoses. It is directly above the ignition coil connector for cylinder #5 and has to be removed in order to replace the #5 coil or spark plug.
Take a look under your hood and judge for yourself if you could have replaced it yourself. I think the answer is "yes, easily."
I do not know if the CPVCSV was stuck open or closed. I do not know if the malfunction was intermittent or solid. Therefore I do not know the long term affect on your car. My best guess: no harm was done. Enjoy the ride!
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