knock sensor problem?
07-30-2001, 07:10 AM
#1
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My check engine light keeps coming on. I have read the codes and the reset the ECM. The codes indicated are 1008 and 0304. The EVAP control valve seems to work. The Knock sensor may be bad. But, why would it cause the two codes? The knock sensor is expensive. I want to be sure.
Please help
Please help
07-30-2001, 07:41 AM
#2
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Originally posted by kereed57
My check engine light keeps coming on. I have read the codes and the reset the ECM. The codes indicated are 1008 and 0304. The EVAP control valve seems to work. The Knock sensor may be bad. But, why would it cause the two codes? The knock sensor is expensive. I want to be sure.
Please help
My check engine light keeps coming on. I have read the codes and the reset the ECM. The codes indicated are 1008 and 0304. The EVAP control valve seems to work. The Knock sensor may be bad. But, why would it cause the two codes? The knock sensor is expensive. I want to be sure.
Please help
I cannot think of any direct connection between the EVAP control valve and the Knock Sensor. Your car may have two problems, not one.
07-30-2001, 07:56 AM
#3
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DTC 1008
Originally posted by kereed57
My check engine light keeps coming on. I have read the codes and the reset the ECM. The codes indicated are 1008 and 0304. The EVAP control valve seems to work. The Knock sensor may be bad. But, why would it cause the two codes? The knock sensor is expensive. I want to be sure.
Please help
My check engine light keeps coming on. I have read the codes and the reset the ECM. The codes indicated are 1008 and 0304. The EVAP control valve seems to work. The Knock sensor may be bad. But, why would it cause the two codes? The knock sensor is expensive. I want to be sure.
Please help
Check fuse #58 (10 amps) and replace if necessary.
The CPVCSV is easy to see and reach. It is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the top of the upper intake manifold. Notice the Vehicle Serial number stamped into the firewall. Put your finger on the third-from-last number. Move your finger three inches toward the radiator. That's the CPVCSV. It has one two-wire electrical connector and two vacuum hoses. It is directly above the ignition coil connector for cylinder #5 and has to be removed in order to replace the #5 coil or spark plug.
You may test the valve. This test procedure is performed with the engine off. Remove the electrical connector and both vacuum hoses. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric terminals. The polarity doesn't matter. With the solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
07-30-2001, 08:26 AM
#4
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Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
When posting a technical question it is helpful if you specify the model year of your Maxima, the odometer mileage, and recent repair history.
I cannot think of any direct connection between the EVAP control valve and the Knock Sensor. Your car may have two problems, not one.
When posting a technical question it is helpful if you specify the model year of your Maxima, the odometer mileage, and recent repair history.
I cannot think of any direct connection between the EVAP control valve and the Knock Sensor. Your car may have two problems, not one.
07-30-2001, 09:30 AM
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Originally posted by kereed57
Sorry about the lack of details. My Maxima is a 1996. The other little twist is as follows. I removed the CV axles and had them rebuilt. I re-installed the axles and changed fluid in the automatic transmission. When I started the car after the work the check engine light came on. The codes are as I have indicated. I have reset the ECM twice and the same codes re-occur.
Sorry about the lack of details. My Maxima is a 1996. The other little twist is as follows. I removed the CV axles and had them rebuilt. I re-installed the axles and changed fluid in the automatic transmission. When I started the car after the work the check engine light came on. The codes are as I have indicated. I have reset the ECM twice and the same codes re-occur.
The correlation between installing rebuilt axles and new ATF with the Check Engine Light is intriguing. There may be a connection, but I can't think of one.
The FSM says The MIL will not light for knock sensor malfunction. That means your 0304 code could have been triggered weeks or months ago but you didn't know it. If this is the case, that supports the idea of those two codes being independent.
The Sticky ECU Diagnostic Trouble Codes has a posting for DTC 0304 and it provides instructions for a resistance test. It is easy enough, and I suggest you perform the test. Bear in mind, the resistance test is useful but not comprehensive. If your Knock Sensor fails the resistance test it is definitely bad. If it passes the test it might still be bad. The tests which we driveway mechanics can make with an ohmmeter are good, but not as good as what the dealer can do with the CONSULT electronic tester.
07-30-2001, 11:22 AM
#6
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Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
The information regarding DTC 1008 earlier in this thread came from the '99 Maxima factory service manual. I don't know if your '96 is the same.
The correlation between installing rebuilt axles and new ATF with the Check Engine Light is intriguing. There may be a connection, but I can't think of one.
The FSM says The MIL will not light for knock sensor malfunction. That means your 0304 code could have been triggered weeks or months ago but you didn't know it. If this is the case, that supports the idea of those two codes being independent.
The Sticky ECU Diagnostic Trouble Codes has a posting for DTC 0304 and it provides instructions for a resistance test. It is easy enough, and I suggest you perform the test. Bear in mind, the resistance test is useful but not comprehensive. If your Knock Sensor fails the resistance test it is definitely bad. If it passes the test it might still be bad. The tests which we driveway mechanics can make with an ohmmeter are good, but not as good as what the dealer can do with the CONSULT electronic tester.
The information regarding DTC 1008 earlier in this thread came from the '99 Maxima factory service manual. I don't know if your '96 is the same.
The correlation between installing rebuilt axles and new ATF with the Check Engine Light is intriguing. There may be a connection, but I can't think of one.
The FSM says The MIL will not light for knock sensor malfunction. That means your 0304 code could have been triggered weeks or months ago but you didn't know it. If this is the case, that supports the idea of those two codes being independent.
The Sticky ECU Diagnostic Trouble Codes has a posting for DTC 0304 and it provides instructions for a resistance test. It is easy enough, and I suggest you perform the test. Bear in mind, the resistance test is useful but not comprehensive. If your Knock Sensor fails the resistance test it is definitely bad. If it passes the test it might still be bad. The tests which we driveway mechanics can make with an ohmmeter are good, but not as good as what the dealer can do with the CONSULT electronic tester.
07-31-2001, 05:24 AM
#7
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Re: DTC 1008
Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve uses an on/off duty cycle to control the flow of fuel vapor from the EVAP canister. Diagnostic Trouble Code 1008 is set when the Engine Control Module (the computer) detects an improper signal through the valve. The problem is likely to be in the electrical wiring, harness, or the valve itself.
Check fuse #58 (10 amps) and replace if necessary.
The CPVCSV is easy to see and reach. It is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the top of the upper intake manifold. Notice the Vehicle Serial number stamped into the firewall. Put your finger on the third-from-last number. Move your finger three inches toward the radiator. That's the CPVCSV. It has one two-wire electrical connector and two vacuum hoses. It is directly above the ignition coil connector for cylinder #5 and has to be removed in order to replace the #5 coil or spark plug.
You may test the valve. This test procedure is performed with the engine off. Remove the electrical connector and both vacuum hoses. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric terminals. The polarity doesn't matter. With the solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister Purge Volume Control Solenoid Valve uses an on/off duty cycle to control the flow of fuel vapor from the EVAP canister. Diagnostic Trouble Code 1008 is set when the Engine Control Module (the computer) detects an improper signal through the valve. The problem is likely to be in the electrical wiring, harness, or the valve itself.
Check fuse #58 (10 amps) and replace if necessary.
The CPVCSV is easy to see and reach. It is located in the engine compartment, mounted to the top of the upper intake manifold. Notice the Vehicle Serial number stamped into the firewall. Put your finger on the third-from-last number. Move your finger three inches toward the radiator. That's the CPVCSV. It has one two-wire electrical connector and two vacuum hoses. It is directly above the ignition coil connector for cylinder #5 and has to be removed in order to replace the #5 coil or spark plug.
You may test the valve. This test procedure is performed with the engine off. Remove the electrical connector and both vacuum hoses. Fasten a length of clean rubber vacuum tubing to either nipple. Gently blow through the hose. The valve should be closed and it should be difficult or impossible to send air through the valve. Now use a pair of fused test leads to provide 12 volts to the electric terminals. The polarity doesn't matter. With the solenoid energized the valve should be open and it should be easy to send air through the valve.
I appreciate the help. My Canister Purge Control Valve has 6 wires. This is consistant with the Haynes wiring diagram I have. This is a 96 Maxima, if that is the difference. With the ignition off, I disconnected the vacuum hoses and cannot blow through the valve. But, where do I connect the 12 volts to actuate the valve?
Thanks again
07-31-2001, 07:05 AM
#8
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Re: Re: DTC 1008
Originally posted by kereed57
Hey Daniel,
I appreciate the help. My Canister Purge Control Valve has 6 wires. This is consistant with the Haynes wiring diagram I have. This is a 96 Maxima, if that is the difference. With the ignition off, I disconnected the vacuum hoses and cannot blow through the valve. But, where do I connect the 12 volts to actuate the valve?
Thanks again
Hey Daniel,
I appreciate the help. My Canister Purge Control Valve has 6 wires. This is consistant with the Haynes wiring diagram I have. This is a 96 Maxima, if that is the difference. With the ignition off, I disconnected the vacuum hoses and cannot blow through the valve. But, where do I connect the 12 volts to actuate the valve?
Thanks again
I have the Haynes repair manual but was unable to find the wiring diagram you mention.
Perhaps your local friendly Nissan dealer will allow you to look at his '96 Maxima FSM. Some dealers will even copy a few pages for you, at no cost.
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