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Gas Light

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Old 08-06-2001, 05:22 PM
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Gents ,

I have a 97' SE and i'm wondering the best way to troubleshoot a gas light. I ran out of gas last tank and never saw the light.. this time I let it go to just 3 gallons left and didn't see the light.. I talked to nissan and they said the light should come on when I turn on the ignition. I don't get a light upon ignition.. any ideas.. 3 tanks ago it worked fine it seems.. maybe i'm not letting it run low enough.. help ahhhhh oh and nissan wants a but load to troubleshoot of course..

thanks

D
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Old 08-06-2001, 05:37 PM
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The light doesn't come on when you turn on the ignition. It should turn on when you have like 2.5 gallons left though. If your gas guage is moving correctly, it is possible the bulb for the gas light is burnt out. You can replace the bulb very easily by taking out the instrument cluster.
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Old 08-06-2001, 05:42 PM
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I kind of have the same problem. Except mine does turn on but it like dims for a little while, and then comes back.
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Old 08-06-2001, 06:18 PM
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i have the same problem too, except my gas light turns on when i turn on my car but then i never see it again, i ran my tank until i had 2 gallons left,,,, maybe i will run it lower,
new owner of 95 max se
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Old 08-06-2001, 06:29 PM
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Low fuel warning light diagnosis procedure

Originally posted by MAXZIMUMD
... I have a 97' SE and i'm wondering the best way to troubleshoot a gas light. ... oh and nissan wants a but load to troubleshoot of course...
The fuel pump is located inside the gas tank. The fuel gauge sending unit is attached to the fuel pump. It consists of a float which operates a variable resistor. For vehicles with conventional analog fuel gauges the resistance value for a full tank is 8 ohms and for an empty tank is 82 ohms.

An on/off switch is incorporated into the gauge sending unit. The switch is normally open, but closes when the fuel level is close to empty. This switch operates the Low Fuel dashboard warning light.

The Low Fuel warning light circuit is simple. The light has +12 volts whenever the ignition is ON. The ground side of the circuit is completed by the in-tank switch, as described above.

Diagnosis procedure.

1) Move both front seats all the way forward. This is to give you more room to work in the rear seat area.

2) Fasten all rear seat seat belts. This is to keep them out of the way and facilitate subsequent installation of the back seat.

3) There are two release latches at the bottom leading edge of the rear seat bottom cushion. Pull these latches toward the front of the car.

4) Lift the leading edge of the rear seat bottom cushion and pull the cushion toward the front of the car. Remove the cushion from the car.

5) Note the fuel pump access access cover in the center of the car. Remove three 10mm bolts. Lift the access cover and move it aside. You can now see the top of the fuel tank.

6) There are two electric connectors. Remove the one on the passenger side. No tools are necessary, just press the latch, wiggle, jiggle, and lift.

7) Turn the ignition ON. No need to start the engine.

8) Note that one of the wires leading into the disconnected connector is red with a black tracer. Use a test lead to connect this terminal to ground. The Low Fuel warning light should go on. Remove the test lead. The light should go off.

9) If the Low Fuel warning light did not go on the dashboard bulb is defective or the wire between the fuel tank and dashboard has an open circuit.

10) If the Low Fuel warning light did go on the in-tank Low Fuel switch is defective.

This diagnostic procedure takes only ten minutes. It is not difficult and does not require any special tools.

If the switch is faulty you may remove the fuel pump and attempt to repair the switch or replace the assembly. Instructions for removing the pump are found in the Chilton repair manual (page 5-2) and the Haynes repair manual (page 4-4).
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Old 08-06-2001, 09:01 PM
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You rock I checked the light by grounding the wire and it worked fine... I think i'll run it low again and see if i'm just loosin it .. if no light at 2.5 or 1.5 gallons i'll replace the switch.. anyone know where I might be able to obtain that reasonably..??? Local nissan dealer wanted 175.00.. thanks for all the help

D
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Old 08-07-2001, 04:15 AM
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Originally posted by MAXZIMUMD
You rock I checked the light by grounding the wire and it worked fine... I think i'll run it low again and see if i'm just loosin it .. if no light at 2.5 or 1.5 gallons i'll replace the switch.. anyone know where I might be able to obtain that reasonably..??? Local nissan dealer wanted 175.00.. thanks for all the help

D
I believe that switch is a dealer-only item. Other suppliers will sell you a whole fuel pump with switch attached.

Let's assume the switch is the problem. Pulling the fuel pump seems like a lot of work to repair a minor item. If it were my car I would learn to live without the low fuel warning light.

If you feel you must have that feature operational consider pulling the pump and looking for some obvious and correctible defect such as a broken wire. $175 for a simple on/off switch is awfully expensive.

Here's another idea for your consideration. Have a private chat with one of the dealership technicians. Offer him $5 for the next "dead" Maxima fuel pump he removes from a customer car. Chances are the dead pump still has a good switch on it.
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Old 08-07-2001, 07:19 AM
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Originally posted by 97GreenMax
I kind of have the same problem. Except mine does turn on but it like dims for a little while, and then comes back.
That's just because your gas is sloshing around when you put the car in drive or reverse and move it. You're just barely below the warning so it'll cut in and out as you go up or down hills, etc.
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Old 08-07-2001, 07:52 AM
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Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
I believe that switch is a dealer-only item. Other suppliers will sell you a whole fuel pump with switch attached.

Let's assume the switch is the problem. Pulling the fuel pump seems like a lot of work to repair a minor item. If it were my car I would learn to live without the low fuel warning light.

If you feel you must have that feature operational consider pulling the pump and looking for some obvious and correctible defect such as a broken wire. $175 for a simple on/off switch is awfully expensive.

Here's another idea for your consideration. Have a private chat with one of the dealership technicians. Offer him $5 for the next "dead" Maxima fuel pump he removes from a customer car. Chances are the dead pump still has a good switch on it.
Danny B. is the SUCH the man!
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Old 08-07-2001, 07:58 AM
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Thanks alot you are the man..!!!
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