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Vibration on curves over 35mph, ideas anyone?

Old Aug 9, 2001 | 09:40 PM
  #1  
Weasel's Avatar
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Tonight coming home I was driving through the twisties at my usual *ahem* quickened pace... anyway, I noticed something didn't feel right under the pedal. I shut the music off and listened, and sure enough, there was a slow rhythmic vibration coming from the front wheel/axle area. As soon as the road straightened out, I didn't feel anything. I went through again at a different speed and didn't feel the same thing until I was going around 35mph through the curves (speed limit 30, so I'm not putting unreasonable demands on the car). The feeling is more noticeable at higher speed (can be heard slightly and felt through the pedal) and does quicken as speed increases. I noticed it turning to either side. The only suspension mod I have is the FSTB. I torqued it correctly when it was put on but it has been a while since then. I'm going to take this one to the dealer if I notice it again, as suspension tweaking is beyond me. Any ideas on what to mention, or tests I can do at home? Like I said, I'm not equipped for serious suspension mods but bolt-on mods (FSTB, RSB, intakes, etc) I can handle.

Thanks guys.
Old Aug 9, 2001 | 09:53 PM
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Sounds like one of your front wheel bearings. I had that too on my 93. Quiet driving straight....then a "humm" when starting to turn slightly at higher speeds.

Mike S.
Old Aug 10, 2001 | 04:41 AM
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Originally posted by Weasel
Tonight coming home I was driving through the twisties at my usual *ahem* quickened pace... anyway, I noticed something didn't feel right under the pedal. I shut the music off and listened, and sure enough, there was a slow rhythmic vibration coming from the front wheel/axle area. As soon as the road straightened out, I didn't feel anything. I went through again at a different speed and didn't feel the same thing until I was going around 35mph through the curves (speed limit 30, so I'm not putting unreasonable demands on the car). The feeling is more noticeable at higher speed (can be heard slightly and felt through the pedal) and does quicken as speed increases. I noticed it turning to either side. The only suspension mod I have is the FSTB. I torqued it correctly when it was put on but it has been a while since then. I'm going to take this one to the dealer if I notice it again, as suspension tweaking is beyond me. Any ideas on what to mention, or tests I can do at home? Like I said, I'm not equipped for serious suspension mods but bolt-on mods (FSTB, RSB, intakes, etc) I can handle.

Thanks guys.
Go to http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm119744.htm to read a good article about Failing CV Joint Symptoms. Author Larry Carley provides a list of bad CV joint symptoms, including this one:

A shudder or vibration when accelerating. Excessive play in either the inboard or outboard joints can sometimes cause this, but the most likely cause is a worn inboard plunge joint.
Old Aug 10, 2001 | 05:09 AM
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Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin


Excessive play in either the inboard or outboard joints can sometimes cause this, but the most likely cause is a worn inboard plunge joint.

Heh

Excessive play gave yo mama a worn inboard plunge joint.



Sorry, it's early....
Old Aug 10, 2001 | 01:08 PM
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Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
Go to http://www.babcox.com/editorial/cm/cm119744.htm to read a good article about Failing CV Joint Symptoms. Author Larry Carley provides a list of bad CV joint symptoms, including this one:

A shudder or vibration when accelerating. Excessive play in either the inboard or outboard joints can sometimes cause this, but the most likely cause is a worn inboard plunge joint.
The right CV joint went bad on my old Accord, and the symptoms were very different than this. I had the classic "baseball card in the bike spokes" clicking noises when that happened. This description seems to fit my problem better.
A humming or growling noise. Sometimes due to inadequate lubrication in either the inner or outer CV joint, this symptom is more often due to worn or damaged wheel bearings, a bad intermediate shaft bearing on equal length halfshaft transaxles, or due to worn shaft bearings within the transmission.
What would cause these bearings to go bad? Inadequate lubrication? My car isn't driven hard (accelerating or turning), and most of the miles I put on are highway miles, around 80mph.
Old Aug 10, 2001 | 01:51 PM
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Originally posted by Weasel
... What would cause these bearings to go bad? ...
- Materials defect (faulty metallurgy).
- Manufacturing defect (improper heat treatment, steel not fully hardened).
- Manufacturing defect (*****, rollers, races not ground to proper smoothness).
- Assembly mishandling (bearings hammered into place rather than gently press fit).

Wheel bearings and the right axle support bearing are factory greased and "lubed for life". Deficiencies in the quantity or quality of grease will cause early failure.
Old Aug 10, 2001 | 02:20 PM
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Originally posted by Daniel B. Martin
- Materials defect (faulty metallurgy).
- Manufacturing defect (improper heat treatment, steel not fully hardened).
- Manufacturing defect (*****, rollers, races not ground to proper smoothness).
- Assembly mishandling (bearings hammered into place rather than gently press fit).

Wheel bearings and the right axle support bearing are factory greased and "lubed for life". Deficiencies in the quantity or quality of grease will cause early failure.
Thanks for the hints, I'll mention this stuff to the dealer or mechanic I take the car to. Hopefully it'll turn out well. Thanks a lot for the help.
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