Albertt

I recently passed 104K miles on my '97gxe. Up until now, I have had no problems, having performed alignments every 30K miles. My car is subjected to all types of road conditions, from the long straight interstates in New England to the pothole infested streets of NYC. I try my best to avoid large road imperfections. For the past few months I've noticed an increased amount of "twitchiness" in the suspension. I understand that the shock dampers are probably worn and should be replaced. My car does not feel bouncy, so I'm assumming that the dampers are not "blown". At this mileage, are there other points in the suspension that are part of a technician's "checklist" on things to replace, adjust or tighten such as bushings, bolts or joints? I guess what I'm looking for is some sort of list I (and other owners here) can refer to when the time comes to get their car's chassis back into shape.

Thanks...

Al

bill99gxe

iTrader: (1)

Albertt.....moved to 4th gen forum as that's where Daniel "lives"...

My only definitive recommendation is to get new bump stops/covers......

And you definitely need some KYB AGXs.....

Daniel B. Martin

There isn't much in the way of maintenance for your Maxima's suspension system. The most you can do is inspect from time to time and replace any parts which are worn out or damaged. Look for a strut which is gushing oil. A minor oil leak is not sufficient to condemn a strut.

Raise the car and support it on sturdy jackstands. Slide under and make a visual inspection of all the rubber parts. Look for items which have become cracked or softened due to exposure to oil. While you are under there, look at everything else... CV joint boots, Oil Pressure Sensor, exhaust system, etc.

You may evaluate your struts by performing the Bumper Jounce test. Park the car on a level surface. Walk to any corner and use your weight to press down on the bumper. As soon as it sinks, release it and let it come up. As soon as it comes up, press down again. Do this three or four times. When you have a good up-and-down rhythm going, press down one last time, step back, and observe. If the body comes up just once and stops, the strut at that corner is good. If the body continues to oscillate, the strut at that corner is bad. Repeat this Bumper Jounce test at the other three corners.

Some people scorn the Bumper Jounce test as outdated or inaccurate. There is some truth in that viewpoint but it is still the best test available to us driveway mechanics.

Gary95

I did the "bounce" test and my car passed. I'm at 104k miles now with original shocks.

However, when I have 2 or more passengers I begin to notice a significant change in suspension behavior. Much more "bouncy" than before. And it seems more noticeable than when I first got the car 7 years ago. I was quite surprised! I thought my struts were doing fine and that they'd last at least another 10k miles.

So, I'm going to replace mine in a few thousand miles. Now I have to do research on which ones to get!

Anyway, try that test--seemed to reveal the true strength of the suspension.

Albertt

I can't shake that feeling that front of the cars feels loose. I just drove a half an hour ago for lunch and paid careful attention to the feel of the suspension. Are there any areas of the suspension that can be tightened up? Would replacing all the bushings bring back the "tightness" that I once felt when the car was newer?

Gary95

Al, is your suspension all OEM original parts? If so, at 104k miles it may be time for replacements. I live north of NYC and avoid rough roads most of the time. My suspension doesn't behave quite the way you describe, but after experiencing less than acceptable handling characteristics with a larger load I'm realizing it's time for some significant replacements.

Based on what you describe, I suggest you take it in for an assessment by a qualified mechanic. Could be you have worn bushings or even some strut hardware that is wearing thin. I'm going to a couple of local tire places that do struts and have them give me a free estimate, compare assessments, and make some decisions.

Regards,

Daniel B. Martin

You've described the sensation as "twitchy" but not "bouncy". I realize these driving characteristics are difficult to describe. Please pay careful attention to the unwanted behavior. It it ...
- felt as vibration in the steering wheel?
- felt as vibration throughout the car?
- sensed as a need for constant small steering corrections?
- that as you gradually change lanes the car abruptly moves sideways more than you intended?

Is it felt more on bumpy roads than smooth ones?
Is it felt more at high speeds than low speeds?
Does the car bottom out when negotiating dips or heaves?

We need to establish whether this complaint is primarily a steering or ride problem.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

With 104k miles on the stock shocks, the fronts ones almost certianly need replacing. Maxima front ends are extremely heavy w/ FWD and V6 up there. The rears could be okay. But again at 104k, just replace them all. Now is this the source of your twitchiness?? Very hard to say. If you mean that the car kind of "darts" either way when the road is slightly uneven or for no real reason at all, then I suspect a few things(not the shocks yet though)
1) Steering tie-rod ends. These have a small ball joint that swivls to allow suspension movement. As these joints wear, it will allow movement in the suspension. A simple shaking of the front tire probably will not reveal if it's worn. Probably the only way is to have an good alignment shop look at it or remove it.
2) Lower control arm. One end has a rubber bushing that might be getting worn(but I've not seen it commonly here)
3) Lower strut ball joint. This is again a ball joint that might be getting worn as 1) indicates.
4) Worn/loose wheel bearing. This will allow suspension movement if it's loose/worn. This might be detected by a shaking of the tire. Check for very slight movements/clinking.
5) Maybe worn upper strut bushings.

If you are at all concerned with this, have a GOOD alignment shop take a look at it.

Albertt

There is a slight vibration at the steering wheel, and it is more pronounced at speeds above 70. I've had my alignment checked, the car tracks perfectly straight. I've also had all four tires balanced recently.

It does not require constant steering corrections...if anything, ever since I switched to the Continental CH95s, on-center steering feel has improved. Changing lanes is the same as it ever was...I've never encountered a problem with overshifting into the next lane.

I guess my complaints are:

1. Increased amounts of cabin high frequency/low amplitude vibration at speed - the ride just doesn't feel as smooth or quiet
2. "Looseness" or "rattling" of the suspension when very bumpy roads are encountered - simply put; feels as though there are loose parts under the hood/car
3. Chassis "twitchiness" when taking sweeping corners at high speed

I'm thinking about changing the shocks when I hit 120K, along with spark plugs, a tranny flush, and all the other usual maintenance items. Any suggestions on which brand of shock? So far, my thoughts are on OE replacements which I believe are manufactured by Tokico.

Daniel B. Martin

Please drive at a speed where this vibration is noticeable. Shift to Neutral and turn off the ignition. If the vibration vanishes it was due to the engine. If the vibration persists it is due to the drivetrain, suspension, or wheels.

Vibration related to the engine might be caused by ...
- a misfire
- a bad engine mount
- a damaged accessory mount

Daniel B. Martin

Raise the car and support it on sturdy jackstands. Slide under and make a careful visual inspection. Look especially at the control arm bushings and sway bar bushings. If they are deteriorated (age, heat, exposure to ozone, exposure to oil) they should be replaced. Check the torque on all those big bolts which fasten the suspension parts to the unibody. Ideally this would be done with a torque wrench. A good exploded view diagram (with torque specifications) may be found in the Chilton repair manual, page 8-9.

Daniel B. Martin

Advocates of the Front Strut Tower Brace (a popular aftermarket accessory) claim that it improves steering response in general, but the biggest advantage is felt "when taking sweeping corners at high speed." Some owners describe it as a night-and-day difference. Consider installing a FSTB. For further information go to http://www.chrislehr.com/maxima/fstb.html

Eric L.

DBM, wow this is the first time I've ever seen you recommend a modification?? I wonder when the mod bug will bite you too!

Daniel B. Martin

Plain Jane (my '99 GXE 5-speed) has a Courtesy FSTB. I'm not much interested in mods and installed the FSTB only because it was a gift from a friend. I think it helps but not as much as some other people say. That's because the biggest benefit accrues to the aggressive driver and I drive like a wuss.

Gary95

Daniel Martin once again gives very thorough, helpful advice. I always appreciate his straight forward comments, methodical approach, and no-nonsense logic. And of course, wealth of experience and willingness to share. Thanks Dan!!

I agree with installing an FSTB. In my case I'd say it was a minor yet noticeable improvement. Given the cost and ease of installation, definitely worth it. There are many threads floating about on the "right one", so do some searching.

About balancing, I once had to take my car back twice to the tire dealer because of improper balancing. So, don't immediately dismiss this as a possible source of the vibrations you mentioned if you had your tires balanced recently (unless you were fine afterwards and the vibrations appeared later).

Sometimes I ponder the idea of getting my own tire balancing equipment and doing it myself. First, I hate the carelessness these guys have with your rims. Mine are nicked all over the place from hastily banged-on counter balance weights. Second, it seems often that balancing isn't "quite right." They do it for John Q. Public who probably won't either notice or really care about minor vibrations at various speeds (or can't be bothered with going back for a re-balance).

Daniel B. Martin

Thank you for the kind words!

The Hunter GSP9700 is a new kind of wheel balancer which is distinctly better than the conventional models. Some Maxima owners report this one succeeded when all others failed. For more information go to http://www.gsp9700.com/

If a tire is out of round it can be balanced perfectly and still cause vibration.

Some aftermarket wheels require hub centering rings in order to run true. If those rings have been left off, the wheel will exhibit radial runout which is felt as vibration.

I have one of those old-timey bubble balancers. Even with care and patience I cannot do as good a job with the bubble balancer as the new electronic spin balancers. In some cases my D-I-Y balancing is "good enough" but in others I have had to let a professional do the balancing.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

I run some 17x8 wheels that have a larger hub bore than factory. As long as I'm careful about centering the lugs, I have no problems. Hubcentric rims would be ideal but IMHO, not 100% necessary.