VQ Quick

My wifes auto 95 GXE (100000 miles)will not start or even attempt to crank, although the battery has plenty of juice and all lights light up in the aux position. No clicking or any sound whatsoever other than the idiot lights beeping the regular start up sequence.
I have received a check engine code that said the starter was probably about to go (0704) but I reset it about a month ago and have no problems until now. The starter has sounded a little weak but do they just completely quit like that? I figured it might put up more of a fight. Anyway I need any input please.
Thanks.

Ravq

Are you sure the diagnostic code readout was 0704? I believe that to be EVAP control system pressure sensor.
http://216.122.219.59/forums/showthr...5&pagenumber=3

TurDz

iTrader: (3)

Your starter could probably be dead. I think even if you reset your ECU and you don't receive a code, it doesn't mean that the problem is gone.

Anyway, hope you get it running again. It must be horrible! ahh! (I also had a problem like yours also...but luckily, it was just the battery )

Daniel B. Martin

Here are some ideas for a step-by-step fault isolation test sequence.


1) Make a written record of your radio station preset. When the battery cables are disconnected your radio will suffer "amnesia". Remove both battery terminals. Clean the battery posts and battery cable clamps with sandpaper, steel wool, or the special-purpose wire brush made for the purpose. Install and tighten the battery cables. Reset the radio station presets. Set the clock to the correct time.

2) Verify that the negative battery cable to engine block connection is clean and tight. Verify that the positive battery cable to starter motor connection is clean and tight.

3) Sometimes a battery cable can develop serious corrosion with the damaged area hidden from view underneath the plastic insulation. Test for this condition by using jumper cables to "help" the battery cables.

On a temporary basis, for testing only, connect ...
- one jumper cable from the negative battery terminal to a clean engine ground.
- one jumper cable from the positive battery terminal to the large terminal on the starter motor.
There is no need to remove the battery cables to make this test. The jumper cables are now in parallel with the battery cables. Crank the engine to start. Switch the ignition off. Wait 20 seconds and repeat the sequence. Do this start/stop operation at least ten times. The reason for the brief wait between starts is to avoid overheating the starter motor. If the starter motor balks, even once, stop this test because you know the battery cables are not the cause. Remove the jumper cables.

4) There may be a problem with the ignition switch, the clutch safety switch (5-speed), the Park/Neutral Position switch (automatic), or the Inhibitor Relay. Test for this possibility by using a fused test lead. Fashion this test lead from a 3-foot length of insulated stranded wire, two alligator clips, and an in-line fuse holder. This test lead should be at least as thick as the starter motor signal wire. Put a 15 amp fuse in the fuse holder.

Shift the car to Park (automatic) or Neutral (5-speed). There are two wires which connect to the starter motor. One is the thick 12 volt battery cable wire. The other is the thin "crank now" signal wire. Remove the thin wire. Turn the ignition on.

Connect one end of this fused test lead to the positive battery terminal. Touch the other end to the starter motor terminal which formerly had the signal wire connected to it. The engine should crank immediately and the engine start. Turn the ignition off, wait 20 seconds and turn it on again. Perform this test ten times, as above. If the starter motor balks, even once, stop this test because you know the ignition switch, clutch switch, PNP switch, and Inhibitor Relay are not the cause. Remove the test lead and install the starter motor signal wire.

There have been many reports of weak starters in the '95 Maxima.

buckwilly4

OK, sorry to bring this thread back from the dead. I am having a really really really hard time with my maxima starting. I had my mechanic try a diagnositc test that daniel spoke of in this thread. Anyhow he said that my relay switch is bad. So, I looked for myself. I looked at the box with the two rows of four switches in it. I noticed that the relay switch for the clutch inhibitor is the same as the one for the radiatior fan 1. So I tried switching up the two using the radiator fan 1 switch in replacement for the clutch inhibitor relay. THIS DID NOT WORK. I am wondering how the part can be the same but there was no start up in the car again. So does this mean that the relay is not hte problem? DO I need a new starter. SHould I just take the car into the money hungry nissan service ctr that doesnt even know anything about my car from what they tell me? I know the starter is expensive but I am really gettins ick of trying my car over and over again until it starts...turning the key 25 times a day until the car starts isnt my idea of a fun time. Does anyone have any other ideas. Is this post clear enough to understand? I need help badly.

Thanks

cory willis

emax02

iTrader: (1)

Usualy when a starter dies you can hit it with a hammer {not to hard} and the car will start right up. This is a good thing to know if you are stranded some where and your car won't start.

Rooster286

Did that for about 3 weeks stright :P


When my starter died, I purchased a rebuild from Autozone with a lifetime warranty for about 140.00 It's very easy to install also....I'm VERY new to automotive work, and my step father is a mechanic, I went over to my parents house to have him do it, he wasn't home so while I was waiting around, I decided to give it a go myself. VERY easy to do, I had it done in about an hour, I'm sure you could do it alot faster if you've done this type of thing before. Don't let those dirty money grubbing bastards at the dealership get their hands on your car, or you'll be kicking yourself in the *** 350.00 later

buckwilly4

I dont think my starter has totally died. It turns over good as new once it actually DOES turn over. IT is sooooo random. I will be sitting in my car (swearing up a storm) attempting to get my max to start. It sometiems starts right up. Especially on warm starts. But on cold starts it usually will never start immediately. But after between 5-30 tries it starts right up. I will remember the hitting the starter if it just wont start, but there seems to stil be occaisional life in the starter otherwise why would my car start like nothing when it does start. There is no hesitation when it does start which makes me think that it could be one of two things it sint getting a spark or something is inhibiting it from responding to me turning my key. It is a 5 speed and I know my foot is all the way down on the clutch...and the clutch only has like 25,000 miles on it. I ordered that inhibitor relay switch piece but I cant get it till thursday, and I feel in my mind that this isnt the problem because if it was why woudn't the exact same part work right if I swtiched them as I spoke about before.

buckwilly4

I dont want to install a starter if that isn't the problem. I definitely wouldnt take it to nissan unless all my other options are shot. No offense to nissan mechanics and workers but I dont have the money to throw another 150 bucks out unless I have to.

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

It's possible the solenoid, which is a seperate part attached to the starter itself may be bad. The solenoid is activated electrically and is what actually moves the gears in the starter motor forward to turn over the engine. If your starter sounds normal once it finally does engage, this could be it. You can by solenoids from Autozone for about $70.

buckwilly4

I will have to bring this up this friday with my mechanic. Thanks for the advice. Any other ideas are welcome.