Brockster

iTrader: (3)

After researching through the Maxima.org site, I come the conclusion that I grazed my front right brake rotor. Can someone tell me what this means and what I should do. I had already planned to purchase Axxis pads and Brembo or Porterfield rotor. I'll start a pad and rotor poll for user recommendations.

Brock

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

If you put so much heat into the rotor and glazed them, you have two options. Either turn them (not reccomended because they will warp easier and dissipitate heat less) or replace them. Contrary to popular belief, you do not need cross drilled or slotted rotors in order to see a significant performance increase, though they do look cool. A good set of pads (Porterfield, EBC, etc...) will improve your braking tremendously, and fade a ton less than stock. The only reason you would need slotted or cross drilled rotors would be for looks or really exreme situations like driving on a track. My .02

SLC I30t

iTrader: (1)

So what your trying to tell me is that all I need is better pads... how does a better pad disipate heat quicker than a cross drilled or slotted? How does a better pad allow the rotor to cool quicker than an upgraded rotor? Doesn't fade happen when the rotor over heat? I agree that a better pad would make an improvement. But when you are braking from 75-80(or 120) they do get hot... quick. I guess significant increase is left to your perception of the word?

Chunger

iTrader: (1)

Fade mostly is caused by the pad material not being able to handle the extreme heat. The rotors can virtually glow red and not be destroyed if cooled back down properly...

SLC I30t

iTrader: (1)

So.....a rotor that stay's cooler...is a happier rotor....again, tell me why I don't want crossdrilled rotors?

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

Like Chunger said, a better pad will accept more heat from the rotor and dissipitate it better up to a much higher temp. than "normal" pads. This is the more economical way to improve brake performance. I won't argue that going to a slotted or cross drilled rotor will increase braking/cooling even more, I'd lose. My point is that upgraded pads are more than up to the task for street driving and even some track driving. When I drive my car at Limerock Raceway, I hit 110 on the front straight and go down to 60 for the first turn combo. I use stock rotors and Porterfield R4S pads. My brakes won't even start to fade until about 20 minutes of repeatedly doing this. The stock rotors are up to the job. I can't imagine were anyone would "need" more cooling capacity than that on the street. Another example, is NHIS, which is a mucher harder braking track. The back straight I hit 95 and go down to 35, a much harder job for the brakes to do repeatedly without fading. There, they do fade earlier, but will still last a 30 minute session.

Like I said before, if you love the look of slotted or cross drilled rotors, by all means, get them. Just understand that. performance wise, they're most likely overkill unless you do a lot of track sessions.

Sorry for the long post.

Mark

Brockster

iTrader: (3)

So, I'll place the order for the new rotors & pads and have them put on this week. I guess I'll just deal with the smell for a few more days. Since I'm supplying the parts, I imagine that my mechanic will charge me for about two hours labor. For my FYI, I still need a description for the term GLAZE. Should I buy a shim package?

I'm still trying to figure out how to post a poll thread. Keep your eyes open for one for brake rotors and one for pads.

Brock

Chunger

iTrader: (1)

Crossdrilling is mostly for lightening the rotor for speed... Increase of surface area is minimal...

Think of it this way... Which takes longer to heat up? 15lb of metal or 10lbs of metal given the same amount of heat?

Daniel B. Martin

A glazed rotor is one which has developed an extremely smooth, almost mirror-like surface. A glazed rotor does not have good friction characteristics.

Brockster

iTrader: (3)

And the rotor Glazed just because of the overheating? Is this typical?

Brock

Daniel B. Martin

Glazing is not typical but it does happen. I think your rotor would have to get really hot to become glazed. I've owned several cars of several different makes which were equipped with disk brakes and have never had a glazed rotor.

SLC I30t

iTrader: (1)

iwannabmw-thanks for the post, I understand the physics better now.

So I'll ask you all as a groups since we have all the minds together... which brand of brake pad is the best? Do I need a different brake pad for stock rotor vs. slotted vs. X-drilled?

Brockster-Phoung is having a sale on his x-drilled rotors from stillen. I know they are cheaper than stock (so I was quoted 98 a piece from Tischer Nissan on Friday--phoung has them 165 a set).

Brockster

iTrader: (3)

As a matter of fact, I spoke to Phong this morning. He pointed out that for normal street running, the Brembo JBR-505 blank rotors ($94/ front pair) would be my best chose. If I wanted to pay extra just for pretty looks, go with his Stillen drilled ($165/front pair) which are Brembo blank drilled by Stillen. I'm still trying to find some slotter rotors. I'd get them with the rust resistant coating. The pads I'm looking at are the Axxis Metalmanager ($47./front pair).

Hey SLC I30t, is that you with the white I30t at the DC meet a few weeks ago?

Brock

SLC I30t

iTrader: (1)

Yes sir it was. Was that you with the rusty Addco?

got rice?

iTrader: (2)

Brock,
If you're looking for slotted, the STillen are available in cross drilled *or* slotted

The Axxis Metal Masters are $47 for the front, not $94

iwannabmw

iTrader: (3)

Other options for slotted might be EBC Turbogroove or ATE Powerdisc. Not sure if they make them for the Max though. You can check out www.brakeco.com
There's an 800# you can call to find out.

Brockster

iTrader: (3)

Sorry Phong, I've corrected the price. Do you sell both the cross drilled and slotted rotors?

Hey SLC I30t, I had that rusty RSB returned for a better one. Unfortunately, I dealing with this brake problem right now. Steve said we would get together later to install both his and my RSB's.

Brock

got rice?

iTrader: (2)

The Stillen are one or the other, not both drilled * and * slottled.

j_bryan

iTrader: (1)

What is the benefit of the Brembo JBR-505 blanks over stock rotors??

Viscous

Stillen Cross Drilled rotors and Axxis metal matrix pads work like a charm. Take you from 120 to 65 in about 2 seconds without fading! I know from experience because I almost drove past a cop on I-80 going 120, but luckily I saw him before he saw me and I braked really quickly.. He musta thought that it was impossible for someone to brake so fast =) hehe here is a picture of the x-drilled rotor attached.

SLC I30t

iTrader: (1)

I'm sold on the x-rilled and pads... But I'm thinking about wether or not to do the lines now or wait... and back brakes...

Viscous

The lines and the backs can wait until you have enough free floating cash. You will feel a big difference already with just the front rotors and pads. Much more grippy and gritty and makes a really cool low hum when you brake firmly.

SLC I30t

iTrader: (1)

Hey phoung...
may I have to bill please....

got rice?

iTrader: (2)

You've got the $150 gift certificate for taking first in the GR Racing autocross, so the bill won't be as bad

SLC I30t

iTrader: (1)

I'll email you seperately but I want the front and rear rotors and brake pads.. I'll do the rest when I have more loot.