best & easiest source to hook up interior lighting device
10-12-2001, 07:41 AM
#41
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 594
Originally posted by fast97maxse
I was asking the same question not too long ago.
I want to hook up my radar detector.
Somebody said replied that they used an existing fuse for the hot lead.
All they did was strip the wire a little and then
put it under just one of the blades of an existing fuse and forced it back into position.
He said it's never come loose on him.
Sounds like the easiest and cheapest solution.
I haven't had the time to do my detector yet, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.
I was asking the same question not too long ago.
I want to hook up my radar detector.
Somebody said replied that they used an existing fuse for the hot lead.
All they did was strip the wire a little and then
put it under just one of the blades of an existing fuse and forced it back into position.
He said it's never come loose on him.
Sounds like the easiest and cheapest solution.
I haven't had the time to do my detector yet, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.
but it feels more safe to use a spare slot of the fuse box that doesn't have a fuse....and let's say you want to hook up more then 1 device you'll need a lot of wires and it'll get messy.
But in my case I want to hook up the lights to the light fuse...so that they turn on only when i turn my lights on automatically without any toggle switch since they come with a transformer and can stay on for periods of long time without blowing up bulb.
pz.
10-12-2001, 08:23 AM
#42
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 598
well, it's just a thought...
the only way you can make it work along with your lights is to tap into a wire that is controlled by the light switch.
I'm not sure if there is even a fuse for it in the box by the footwell.
If there is, I think you have to remove the lower dash so you can remove the fusebox assembly and get to the wires from behind.
But adding a small toggle switch would be quite easy, just a question of where to mount it.
I did the clock mod and put the switch in the "blank" switch cover next to the dashboard dimmer control. You might put it somewhere down by the fuse box.
I hadn't heard of the piece that you plug into a fuse outlet and it has the wire coming from it untill I read this thread. I was wanting that exact thing for my detector. $12 sounds like a lot for a little bit of plastic, but it does the job just the way I want.
Does anybody know the part number?
the only way you can make it work along with your lights is to tap into a wire that is controlled by the light switch.
I'm not sure if there is even a fuse for it in the box by the footwell.
If there is, I think you have to remove the lower dash so you can remove the fusebox assembly and get to the wires from behind.
But adding a small toggle switch would be quite easy, just a question of where to mount it.
I did the clock mod and put the switch in the "blank" switch cover next to the dashboard dimmer control. You might put it somewhere down by the fuse box.
I hadn't heard of the piece that you plug into a fuse outlet and it has the wire coming from it untill I read this thread. I was wanting that exact thing for my detector. $12 sounds like a lot for a little bit of plastic, but it does the job just the way I want.
Does anybody know the part number?
10-12-2001, 08:26 AM
#43
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 9,159
Re: Re: HAHAHA
If you look hard enough in those areas, you'll see places where you can run a zip-tie through.
When I installed my blacklights under there, I drilled into my glove compartment and the plastic piece under the steering wheel. I regret it now though. Also, I ran the wire from the passenger side behind the center console and tapped it into the blacklight under the driver's side.
I didn't use the fuse box though. I ran a wire in directly from the battery and hooked them up to a switch that's in on of the slots of the coinholders.
I have StreetGlow blacklights and they come with screws. But like I said, screw it in and you'll regret it. It doesn't look all that hot when you take it out. The screws are pretty big.
When I installed my blacklights under there, I drilled into my glove compartment and the plastic piece under the steering wheel. I regret it now though. Also, I ran the wire from the passenger side behind the center console and tapped it into the blacklight under the driver's side.
I didn't use the fuse box though. I ran a wire in directly from the battery and hooked them up to a switch that's in on of the slots of the coinholders.
I have StreetGlow blacklights and they come with screws. But like I said, screw it in and you'll regret it. It doesn't look all that hot when you take it out. The screws are pretty big.
Originally posted by itsgt
ok.....um
I'm planning on putting these neons most likely in in the back of the floor mats for your feet...in the corner of where the glove compartment goes down and floor mat meets(for passenger side) & where pedals are for driver side. I might just put the lights under the seats too...im not too sure yet.
I plan to run the wires through the dash and into the fuse box...either into a spare fuse slot or one being used already...then ground it to the bolt.
I'm not sure yet how I'm going to put the lights in to hold down there...but duct tape sounds so ugly. I know the streetglows come with some kind of screw holdings on each end so i'll check that possibility out.
at streeglow.com they run for about $31/$32 for 10"/15"...I found them on another site for $25/$28 for 10"/15".
ok.....um
I'm planning on putting these neons most likely in in the back of the floor mats for your feet...in the corner of where the glove compartment goes down and floor mat meets(for passenger side) & where pedals are for driver side. I might just put the lights under the seats too...im not too sure yet.
I plan to run the wires through the dash and into the fuse box...either into a spare fuse slot or one being used already...then ground it to the bolt.
I'm not sure yet how I'm going to put the lights in to hold down there...but duct tape sounds so ugly. I know the streetglows come with some kind of screw holdings on each end so i'll check that possibility out.
at streeglow.com they run for about $31/$32 for 10"/15"...I found them on another site for $25/$28 for 10"/15".
10-12-2001, 05:11 PM
#45
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,857
Originally posted by itsgt
hmmm...i dont know maybe...i tried explaining to them...that it was a blade that went into the spare fuse slots that held in the wire...
Um but i found some other **** it cost me $12(i didn't open it cuz it seems too much for what i need to spend)...it's called "Add-A-Circuit"...what it basically is , its a fuse thing that goes into a fuse slot and it has a wire coming out of it...and u stick the wire into that wire and just clamp it.
i'm gonna try to find something muuuuch cheaper!
--------im gonna try going to some audio & performance shops tomorrow...what exactly should I tell them when they ask me what part i need cause everyone so far seemed to be confused when i told them.
thanks
hmmm...i dont know maybe...i tried explaining to them...that it was a blade that went into the spare fuse slots that held in the wire...
Um but i found some other **** it cost me $12(i didn't open it cuz it seems too much for what i need to spend)...it's called "Add-A-Circuit"...what it basically is , its a fuse thing that goes into a fuse slot and it has a wire coming out of it...and u stick the wire into that wire and just clamp it.
i'm gonna try to find something muuuuch cheaper!
--------im gonna try going to some audio & performance shops tomorrow...what exactly should I tell them when they ask me what part i need cause everyone so far seemed to be confused when i told them.
thanks
10-12-2001, 10:35 PM
#46
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 594
Originally posted by Ravq
Just explain to them that you want to use the fuse box to supply power for your neon. They should know what to use. Heck they might even have a better option for where to get the power.
Just explain to them that you want to use the fuse box to supply power for your neon. They should know what to use. Heck they might even have a better option for where to get the power.
I just realized that I need to use a non-spare fuse because I want my neons to go on only when i hit the light switch. I looked over the fuse chart and couldn't find any name that associated with the fog/headlight switch...can you point me to the correct fuse(when will give power to device ONLY when the light switch is turned clockwise at least once) thanks.
10-12-2001, 10:55 PM
#47
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Join Date: Oct 2000
Posts: 1,857
I couldn't tell you which fuse you need to use. You'd need a multimeter or a tester to determine which ones have juice running through them only when the activated. If you want to do it that way you might have to tap into the parking light circuit for that. That's just one more reason to use a toggle switch.
10-12-2001, 11:20 PM
#48
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Posts: 248
All the fuses that you see is going to be + so all you need to do is put the + line in to one of the fuse and the - into the body of the car if you want to make a switch all you need to do is cut the + line and put a switch in it so it can cut off the line if you want it off hope this can help you guys i really dont think you need to add a slot but if you guys want you can ohhh with the fuse thing you can get a fuse link that has a fuse in it so when something goes wrong you it can cut off the line oh well
10-15-2001, 07:13 AM
#49
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 598
I went to radio shack this weekend.
They didn't have the tap with the wire attached
but I did see it in the catalog - it's only $8.00.
Anyway I bought some little brass tabs that slip in with the fuse and have a little pice that sticks out designed to accept a female spade-lug.
A bubble pack of 6 or so was about $1.69 and will work just fine, and probably easier than the $8.00 piece.
I'd just go witht the switch, then you have complete control.
There might be an occasion when you want the regular lights but not the "extra" lights.
It would be simple to add, asianpr3082 is correct on how.
You could mount the switch on the removeable panel over the fuse box. Just use enough wire so you can pull it out of the way when you need to get to the fuses.
They didn't have the tap with the wire attached
but I did see it in the catalog - it's only $8.00.
Anyway I bought some little brass tabs that slip in with the fuse and have a little pice that sticks out designed to accept a female spade-lug.
A bubble pack of 6 or so was about $1.69 and will work just fine, and probably easier than the $8.00 piece.
I'd just go witht the switch, then you have complete control.
There might be an occasion when you want the regular lights but not the "extra" lights.
It would be simple to add, asianpr3082 is correct on how.
You could mount the switch on the removeable panel over the fuse box. Just use enough wire so you can pull it out of the way when you need to get to the fuses.
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