Now that I've replaced the fuel rail adapter because of that incident 3 weeks ago where the hose connecting to the fuel rail popped off from too much pressure I've noticed that when I start the car in the morning the rpms would settle around 650~700rpm and then after a short while it would drop down to 500rpm. The car would be noticeably shaking when this happens and after a minute of this the rpm would climb back up. I've not noticed this happening after the car has fully warmed up. Would this have anything to do with the coils?

I've got:
- Aeromotive FPR
- BEGI fmu
- Walbro 255lph pump

 

i had this same problem kind of a while ago, mine ended up being the infamous MAF sensor F-in up, or so we think, because i still didnt have enough proof to put a finger on it. my .02

 

Hmmm..well my maf took a tumble when it rolled off my workbench.

 

that'll do it. see if you can switch MAFs with another 4th gen in your area

 

I'm having this problem as well, my car idles around 500-550(5spd). Also, sometimes, on acceleration, the car has a very slight surge, and every now and then when I make a full-throttle pull, at around 5-6k or so the engine will briefly cut out. Would the MAF going bad make it do this?

I'm not trying to hi-jack your thread blackcat, just trying to maybe help solve both our problems if it's the MAF...

 

when mine when completely bad it only affecting starting the car, and gettin on it from idle.

 

Did it throw a code, or was it kind of like when you put your CAI on and forget to hook the MAF plug back up and it won't rev past 3500rpm?

 

i dont check my car for codes cause no one near by has something to check them with. When you unplug your maf it should run good up until 3500 where it kicks back. When mine was bad it would just sputter on starts and would hesitate when you give it gas from an idle.

 

Autozone will run a free scan for you.. just ask someone behind the desk.

 

yea the 4 autozones near me all had one, and it was ripped off from them. they will not replace it.

 

I don't know where you're located, but we have a nice scanner at my dad's shope here in central Fla. if you are close by, he usually charges people(it's not one of those cheap azz scanners from Autozone, he charges to pay for it) but I'll hook up Max owners fa free

 

A bad MAF would trip a CEL. If you don't have a CEL, there's no need to scan.

If it's going bad, but is still funtional, then the only way to know is to swap with a known working MAF and see.

 

that might be it, go and get some CRC MAF cleaner at checker or advanced autoparts or autozone. any place like that its like 5 bucks, then spray it n your hot wires in your maf a few times and it should clean them off. thats the cheap way to fix the problem, it might start to stumble again in 10xxx miles or so but then just do it again it it will fix it, another way to test if your maf is Effed up is take a screw driver or tap on the center of your maf with your knuckle and listen closely to see if your engine stumbles

 

No worries, MadMax!

No Check Engine light on yet but I'll have to get some maf cleaner, run the codes and tap the maf housing.

 

yeah, if there's no CEL yet, just get some CRC MAF cleaner, and you'll be fine.

 

Just found this thread on the Throttle Position Sensor:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ht=maf+failure

and

http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/tps.html

This must be the problem.

 

BlackCat,

Try warming up your car to fully operating temp, then remove your TB and adjust your TPS to spec. using that website above.

-matt

 

My car had that problem it dipped to like 200-300rpm I clean the TB and Seafoamed it and it stopped doing that, but my car idles at 500rpm when im at a stop light with no vibration and its not throwing codes either the even when it was doing its deadly dip

 

Guess I'll have to buy a multimeter and I've never used one before.

Canadian pricing is $112.00 for the tps and $550.00 for a maf.
DaveB is selling the maf for $385US.

 

I had the same issue.....it was cylinder 3 misfire.

 

Blackcat if you were closer you could borrow my multimeter. But it is also a very handy thing to have around id definately recommend you getting one. If youd like i can get you a price on a OEM TPS, might be able to save you a bit.

 

I tried the CRC stuff tofay, took the MAF off and cleaned it out. It wasn't real dirtly, but it did have a little bug in the screen. I sprayed it out, put on a new fuel filter, and checked my plugs. The plugs looked great, but I am probably going to change them just because they are the NGK coppers and they have about 20k or so on them...

The car still runs the same, even after the filter and MAF cleaning. I also hooked the scanner up, and the only code I have is P1336 - MFR Cntrlld Ign or Misfire. I just changed the CKPS(REF) and the CPS last week - the car wouldn't even start with those messed up. Now I just have this missing problem but it is throwing the other crank position sensor code - I just don't know how it still runs with the crank sensor problem.

I am going to change my oil/filter and test my coil packs tomorrow, hopefully this will reveal something of use to someone...

 

Im having the same problem since i used deep creep.. and the code i pulled is 6th cyl misfire. Hopefully my idle will shoot back up once i figure that mess out..

 

Thanks Scott, but I just picked up a cheapie one from Canadian Tire yesterday for $20.00. I also found a tutorial on youtube on how to use it. I ordered a tps as well from Morrey Nissan.

 

How much was your cost on the TPS if you don't mind me asking?

 

Darn thing cost me $110Cdn roughly.

I installed the tps last night. Its just held on by two screws. This morning when I cranked the engine the idle did not lope anymore. Idle was a steady 650rpm and never dipped to 500rpm when the engine was cold.
When the engine was fully warmed up the loping would disappear but I was starting to experience flat spots whenever I stepped on the throttle before the tps change.
The Haynes manual has a description of the symptoms I was experiencing for the tps.

Now the problem is gone! Throttle response is restored to what it should be. So even though my maf took a little tumble that wasn't the cause of the problems.
I now believe that once a Max turns 10 years old a tps change would be necessary.

 

How the hell much is $110 can in US monies?

 

since the man on the TV said they're just about even now, i'd say around $90

 

Forgot to ask, did you ever read the codes to find out what the comp. said it was?

Maybe I missed it...

 

lol if its 110CAD its about 107USD

Daniel you confused me with MIXMAX. Im chris haha

 

lol, yeah, you're right, my previous quote would be from 2002

 

Lol Sorry Chris!