hey guys just got a quick question for the install of the safc2.

What am i suppose to do for the MAF wire. Do i cut it then put the connector on then use that yellow pigtail wire they supply, the other end into the white cable?

the instructions are somewhat vague lol, and the install guide on vqpower doesnt really show how to do that part.

thanks
chris

Also the pin layout in the apexi manual shows different pins for knock sensor. Which guide did you guys go by the one on vqpower or the one off hal's website?

 

Your first instinct is correct, per the installation manual that comes with the unit (assuming you have it). You cut the wire (not splice) and one end attaches to yellow and the other end to the white. Of course it's not interchangeable, you have to connect the correct ends to the correct wire, but you get the idea.

 

I didn't use the O2 signal, nor the KS signal, useless IMO.

 

both those serve no purpose, really.

 

lol alright thanks guys. i re-read the manual after getting some sleep and i think i made sense out of it. so basically i cut the MAF wire and put on the "plug" as they call it (male connector)then it plugs into the white wire on the safc harness, then i put another plug onto the other end of the MAF wire i cut and that plugs into the yellow wire?

Basically i think the white wire is the input the maf reading goes thru the white wire, into the safc then comes out the safc thru the yellow wire into the ecu right?

The only other then im not 100 about is the splicing. All the other wires i just splice, so i shave off 5mm or so of the cable housing so to speak, then just kinda wrap the safc harness wire around it and tape it with some electrical tape?

The thing with the ground seems fairly simple, if i understood it as it was described in the book, i splice the black wire in first lets say 3cm away from the ecu, then i splice the brown wire 1cm away from the ecu on the same wire correct?

thanks alot guys normally i just jump into these things, but at the expense of my jwt ecu, engine harness and apexi safc2 id rather not risk destroying either of those lol.

 

Looks as if you've got it all figured out

 

Sweet Thanks NmexMAX and Tatanko for your help!

 

Thanks alot guys, i blew my ecu thanks to your mis information. LOL just kidding

Install went great, even with my lack of electrical soldering skills i still had it installed in about 1-2hours. The only wire i had problems with was the TPS, and only cuz all the other wires were blocking it, after that the rest were simple, did a nice neat install, shrink wrapped/electrical taped all connections, soldered all splices, and ran the wire into the glovebox up onto my dash. I did it that way so i can easily put the safc2 back into my glovebox when i park. I attatched it to the stand with velcro, holds well and i can remove it at any time.

I can post up some pics if anyone was interested.

Also for tuning with the SAFC2, can you can only tune the car at closed loop right(i think closed, when it ignores all sensors and uses pre determined ratios)? It would be nice if i could maybe get it a little leaner throughout the whole rpm band, i dont have a wideband yet, but im like 99% sure its running stinking rich, evident by the backfiring/burbling when on decelration, poor fuel economy and tail pipe is blacker then my best freind sam an hes from africa lol..

 

As promised pics:



JWT 7200, pretty accurate!





thanks again guys for all the help, dont think i would have had the confidence in myself if it wasnt for the advice.

 

I wouldn't be making any corrections without at LEAST a wideband. Do you have one? I don't have one on my car yet, so the settings are getting left alone on my VAFC 2 until I have one. Just doesn't seem worth the risk of potentially leaning it out somewhere too much. I know what you're saying about "thinking" the car is running pig rich, I have the exact same symptoms pointing to it as you do.

 

yeah i was just playing around with it, i set it to -1 at 1600rpm, then put it back to 0 lol. the reason why in the pic showing 7202, was the peak rpm, so it was still showing the correction cuz the car was at idle.

I guess i should have made it more clear lol, i do have a wideband, but i dont have the LM1, me and my freind went halfs for one, so hes using it right now for tuning his mr2, so i gotta wait abit before i can do anything to mine.

Its cool though, being able to monitor those things, i wish it could monitor a bit more though, vehicle speed, coolant temp and oil pressure would be nice. But i can always get the oil pressure gauge..just gotta find a place to mount it other then the A-Pilliar so i wont get harassed by ricers or cops everytime they pull up to me at the light.

 

Hummmm, do you have any other mods that would cause you to run so rich? 5th gen injectors? I see no problems with making very minor corrections if that is the case, don't listen to tatanko or the others that may disagree with me, but keep in mind a/f corrections also result in timing advance so take it with a grain of salt.

It's open loop you're thinking of, but even in open loop it doesn't ignore all sensors, maf and cps are still used for example. Closed loop mainly refers to when the oxygen sensors are being used as feedback to constantly adjust the a/f.

 

i heard that safc 2 is useless... it goes back to ecu settings afer a while..

 

Set low throttle at 39% and High throttle at 40%.

I was running very rich with everything stock. AFR 10.2 at 5500rpms. Mine is set -5 at low throttle and goes from -3 to -13 at high throttle. AFR is 13.1-13.4 through entire RPM range now at full throttle.

 

. . .

 

I also heard that...my friend is a service tech at Nissan and he has plenty of boosted cars. He said once you get tuned with an AFC it wont stay b/c the stock ecu does not hold the settings, rather it goes back to OE specs, or pre-dyno specs. he said the only way to hold those settings would be to get a technosquare ecu b/c it can hold AFC settings...

I would be curious to see a person who got dyno'd and went back some time later with the same mods to see if the numbers are the same or they went back to the old specs...

 

To make such a blatantly incorrect statement would require a complete lack of understanding of how the AFC works. The settings are stored in the AFC, not in the ECU. If the settings were in the ECU, then yes, it would likely clear them (the same way all the datalogging software we have that advertises the ability to raise timing will only do so until the car has been restarted, then the settings are gone). However, the settings are in the AFC and are loaded whenever the AFC is given power (i.e. when you start the car). The AFC is making a correction to a signal going to the ECU, not modifying the ECU's settings.

I'm also going to once again recommend to the OP NOT to make any corrections until you know for sure what the A/F is (have a way to actually see what it is).

 

oh ok...thanks for clearing it up. Glad I learned a bit

 

http://www.hondahookup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92218

http://www.civicforums.com/forums/7-honda-civic-diys-civic-tech-chat/173958-does-our-ecu-reset-apexi-safc2.html

http://www.civicforums.com/forums/7-honda-civic-diys-civic-tech-chat/146790-v-afc-ii-completely-useless.html

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/display_topic_threads.asp?ForumID=10&TopicID=21556 0&PagePosition=1

http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?t=58863


i really really would like to know if these things wont happen to my ECU when i get it vafc 2 TUNED.... ppl in those threads are saying to get OBDI

ohh...and we gotta re-tune everytime we change battery because the vafc2 resets !!!!??!!!!

as all of u know 95's got the OBD I

so is it better to get the E-Ultimate?

 

How long are you going to continue spreading misinformation? 1995 Maximas DO NOT have OBDI, they are OBDII. Why don't you do a little bit of research about Maximas, OBDII, and how AFC's work (start by reading my previous post) before you even think about posting again.

 

Props on the research, but your time would have been better spent doing that research on Maximas here who have VAFC-IIs installed, working, and tuned.

 

How did we go from SAFC to VAFC?

 

safc - vafc ... similar things..



i did not mean to give out INFO....

i'm just a newbie seeking some answers...

so OK if we got obdII its worse according to those forums...
its all about the computer i believe .... i figured honda would be similar to nissan..

and from those i've read ... it makes me think that the VAFCII or SAFCII will not work.... unless someone gives me dyno sheets >> same mods , different time periods ... and proves that there's no change ...then i'll believe it

 

NmexMax has more runfiles than hookers have std's, you will soon get pwned, welcome to the .org, you will find it is completely different in both knowledge and attitude towards innacurate/not backed up information, to us- useless info from honda forums is exactly that.

 

Like I said, do your research. Posting false information /= "seeking answers." Until then, do us all a favor and just stop altogether.

Here on the .org, we don't like to come across as hostile. However, we have an unwritten no bullsh*t policy.

 

ok my bad...

so one last question

which would you prefer ?

E-Ultimate or VAFC 2

dont count in the $ fact....

 

E-Ultimate......

Also, it seems as if you’re getting at static maps vs dynamic maps re: ECU.

 

For boost, EU. If you are NA and plan on staying that way, the SAFC/VAFC will do everything you should need.

 

. . . .

 

That is all...

 

Why shaking head? Unless I was going to do major engine mods or adding boost, I don't think the EU would be worth it. I just think if you could tune the EU to make more power than the VAFC, it wouldn't be worth the added cost.

I know he said not to count money but I just don't think another 5hp is worth twice the cost...

 

Right, because the EU will only ever get you 5 more HP NA, and no one has ever used it for anything besides power