hey guys will the mevi open up without an aftermarket rpm switch? just with the vacumm solenoid.. if so at what rpm might it open up at?

 

Youll need an RPM Switch of some sort. (Harlan or Summit) The vaccum selenoid controls the vaccum only.

-matt

 

It will, if you wire it up. Of course, without an RPM switch, it'll be open all the time, so as to your answer at which RPM, it would be 0-∞.

 

what will be open at all times? the variable at its peak?

 

If you wire the vacuum solenoid up to straight power and ground, it will be open as long as the car is on, therefore so will the MEVI. There'll be no RPM-dependant activation, it'll just always be on.

Get a damn RPM switch.

 

Why the heck would you do that? If you were going to run with it open at all time just zip tie the actuator open. No need to even use the vac. sol or cannister.
You could even just remove the butterfiles.
Low end would suffer though.

 

You wouldn't (or at least, a smart person wouldn't) but hey, he asked.

 

Lol, what's the point of a MEVI if it doesn't activate or work properly.

 

Highway racing?

 

Lol. He doesn't even have a JWT ECU, what's he gonna do when someone wants to race from a 65 roll? Roll down the window and ask them to speed up or slow down? That ziptied/open MEVI hurts really bad < 5000 rpms. Believe me, I drove around with it stuck open for the last two days (broken Vacuum canister) and the torque loss is HUGE!!!!!!!!!!!! Even with my JWT ECU! It's either no high rpm power or no low - mid range torque for me until I get my new Tank on monday.

 

you could wire it to a wot or on/off switch for about 5bucks till you save up for a rpm switch

 

well i just installed the mevi with no wiring or vac. canister or rpm switch, just bolt on and t'd a vacumm hose and have the actuator vacumm operated. i feel some botom end power but the top end is still the same

 

lol well right now you are worse off then with the USIM. If you want to feel top end gains, get a zap strap or w/e you wanna call it and tie the mevi actuator arm open. Yes you will loose crazy amounts of mid range power but atleast you can feel what the mevi should be like haha.

Personally id leave it closed just because mid range there is not much of a loss compared to tied open. Once you get it fully running mid range will stay the same but top end will be crazy!!!

 

from were i am at now how can i get it fully running do i need only an rpm switch?

 

You will need the following:

RPM SWITCH
vacuum canister + check valve if applicable
Control solenoid.
3/16" vacuum T


Vacuum source:

T off the fuel pressure regulator (FPR), remove the rubber vacuum line going to it, put the "T" fitting onto that line, now run a rubber line going to the FPR from one end of the "T" and on the other end of the "T" run it to the vacuum canister.

Vacuum canister:

You should have 2 ports on the vacuum canister, depending on the type you have. One port is the input the other is the output. If you have the NAPA one, the larger port is the input. The rubber vacuum line coming from the "T" will go to the input on the vacuum canister. Now the output port on the vacuum canister will now run to the control solenoid.

Control solenoid:

The control solenoid should have 3 ports and 2 electrical connections. Ill explain the vacuum ports first. There should be 2 ports beisde each other, one of them being input and the other output. The one by itself is the breather...nothign is attatched to that. Basically the output from the vacuum canister will go to the INPUT on the control solenoid. Then the OUTPUT from the control solenoid will run to the vacuum nipple on the MEVI actuator arm. You are almost done. If you have the "dawes" control solenoid, the port with the metal "teeth" is the input the one right beside it is the output, and the one by itself is the breather.

Control solenoid + RPM Switch.

Ill explain to you if you are using the Summit RPM switch like i am.

There are 5 wires on the RPM switch, Red (12VDC), black (Ground), Yellow (acitivation/switched ground), green(tach input) and grey which is not going ot be used.

The red i just hooked up directly to the battery with a inline fuse. The black is being grounded to the body. The green which is the tach input, i tapped off the ECU, its the white/green wire, if you have installed a SAFC/VAFC/NEO you would have already tapped this wire. The yellow wire is the activation wire, and will send the signal to the control solenoid to release the vacuum. Basically what you do is run the yellow wire from the RPM switch to the GROUND on the control solenoid. The positive on the control solenoid you can either tap off the rpm switch power or go directly to the battery. I tapped after the fuseable link so both control solenoid + rpm switch are on a fused circuit.

You are pretty much done, on the rpm switch, it will read high because the summit is designed for V8 applications. I have mine set at about 3000rpm which activates at ~5100rpm. Play with it, set it low at first so you dont have to go revving to 5000rpm to figure out if you hooked everything up correctly.

I have a SAFC2, so i just placed it against the windsheild and tested to see when it activated.

Good luck if you have any more questions just ask, i went through all of this already so its still fresh in my mind!

 

I'm selling my MSD rpm switch if you want it. Sorry for the post *****.