Air intake recommandation.
#5
#6
When the engine is normal temperature, the hard staring problem came up mostly.
In the mornig when the engine is cold, the start is just normal. But after sitting 5~10min., it need a long crank time. When I tested to start without air intake, it was good to start. So I was thinking the air intake has a problem.
Nobody has the solution for the hard starting problem. I wouldl like to tell about the history of repair.
My I30 has the starting problem before I bought.
Only what I knew about the problem, the problem was started after the transmission was rebuilt. Right after the A/T was rebuilt, the car wasn't started at all. So it was repaired to the problem on the another shop.
It was the labor description.
CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START ------------ $192
HAS SPARK AND INJECTOR PULSE. HAS GOOD FUEL PRESSURE.
INSPECTED SPARK PLUGS AND FOUND PLUGS GAS FOULED.
REPLACED SPARK PLUGS WIHT O/E STYLE.
CARBON BUILD UP CAUSING HARD START WHEN COLD.
NEEDS TO CLEAN MOUNTING SURFACE BETWEEN ENGINE AND
TRANSMISSION. REROUTE GROUND CABLE TO THE STATER BOLT.
CLEAN MATING SURFACE BETWEEN TRANSMISSION AND ENGINE.
INSTALLED GROUND CABLE TO THE STARTER BOLT. AFTER CLEANING
VEHICLE NOW STARTS AND RUNS. -------------- $352
When the repair was done, the start was good like normal. However after one month, it was getting worse. Like three times every 10 times was hard to start.
On two months later I've infiniti dealership and import car specialist but they just told me that
1.the error code P1320 even though the car haven't show up the CEL. (I don't know how did they get the code.) So it might be needed to replace all of the ignition coils -$950.
2. Also the ECU could be malfunctioned. It should go to dealership.
3. The carbon could be accumulated inside the engine.
After that, I replaced the ignition coils and crankshaft sensor but nothing. I spent about $1000 to try to fix the problem. But I'm missing now.
What can I do for my car? I love my car. It is nice without the problem.
In the mornig when the engine is cold, the start is just normal. But after sitting 5~10min., it need a long crank time. When I tested to start without air intake, it was good to start. So I was thinking the air intake has a problem.
Nobody has the solution for the hard starting problem. I wouldl like to tell about the history of repair.
My I30 has the starting problem before I bought.
Only what I knew about the problem, the problem was started after the transmission was rebuilt. Right after the A/T was rebuilt, the car wasn't started at all. So it was repaired to the problem on the another shop.
It was the labor description.
CRANKS BUT WILL NOT START ------------ $192
HAS SPARK AND INJECTOR PULSE. HAS GOOD FUEL PRESSURE.
INSPECTED SPARK PLUGS AND FOUND PLUGS GAS FOULED.
REPLACED SPARK PLUGS WIHT O/E STYLE.
CARBON BUILD UP CAUSING HARD START WHEN COLD.
NEEDS TO CLEAN MOUNTING SURFACE BETWEEN ENGINE AND
TRANSMISSION. REROUTE GROUND CABLE TO THE STATER BOLT.
CLEAN MATING SURFACE BETWEEN TRANSMISSION AND ENGINE.
INSTALLED GROUND CABLE TO THE STARTER BOLT. AFTER CLEANING
VEHICLE NOW STARTS AND RUNS. -------------- $352
When the repair was done, the start was good like normal. However after one month, it was getting worse. Like three times every 10 times was hard to start.
On two months later I've infiniti dealership and import car specialist but they just told me that
1.the error code P1320 even though the car haven't show up the CEL. (I don't know how did they get the code.) So it might be needed to replace all of the ignition coils -$950.
2. Also the ECU could be malfunctioned. It should go to dealership.
3. The carbon could be accumulated inside the engine.
After that, I replaced the ignition coils and crankshaft sensor but nothing. I spent about $1000 to try to fix the problem. But I'm missing now.
What can I do for my car? I love my car. It is nice without the problem.
#11
I knew someone with another car that had this sort of thing happen when hot, but it also would sometimes cause it to lose power/cut out while driving..ended up being the CPS camshaft position sensor.
#12
I replaced the sensor at the last weekend but it was nothing to me.
Also I tried to start with disconnecting the sensor but the car wasn't started at all.
It just cranked. So I think that the sensor and wire are ok.
Also I tried to start with disconnecting the sensor but the car wasn't started at all.
It just cranked. So I think that the sensor and wire are ok.
#13
When the engine is normal temperature, the hard staring problem came up mostly.
In the mornig when the engine is cold, the start is just normal. But after sitting 5~10min., it need a long crank time. When I tested to start without air intake, it was good to start. So I was thinking the air intake has a problem.
Nobody has the solution for the hard starting problem. I wouldl like to tell about the history of repair.
the problem was started after the transmission was rebuilt.
When the repair was done, the start was good like normal. However after one month, it was getting worse. Like three times every 10 times was hard to start.
In the mornig when the engine is cold, the start is just normal. But after sitting 5~10min., it need a long crank time. When I tested to start without air intake, it was good to start. So I was thinking the air intake has a problem.
Nobody has the solution for the hard starting problem. I wouldl like to tell about the history of repair.
the problem was started after the transmission was rebuilt.
When the repair was done, the start was good like normal. However after one month, it was getting worse. Like three times every 10 times was hard to start.
Does your idle is good? If yes, you don't have an intake problem.
I maybe know whats wrong : you said after the cleaning everything was good. So my guess : rust and oxydation. If you clean the housebell and the engine block badly, the problem is fix for a while, until the oxidation come back.
It was my situation, use dielectric grease on the main screws (tranny to the engine block). Make sure that you remove all the antitrust with a sand paper.
Do specially the screws located under the car. In that way you sure that the oxidation wont come back.
Takes 20 minutes...
Does you problem look like this?:
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/8...8f0096156c.htm
Last edited by oVeRdOsE; 11-19-2007 at 10:15 AM.
#14
I still say its a poor ground but whatever.
A lot of people don't know how to properly clean and ground connections, and how important it is to do so, and that likely includes most of the mechanics as well.
A lot of people don't know how to properly clean and ground connections, and how important it is to do so, and that likely includes most of the mechanics as well.
#15
Well just think you need 3 things to run an engine.
1.fuel
2.spark
3.air
if your missing one you will not work, you know for sure your getting spark the shop told you
you are sure that your getting air? or fuel. maybe try running some key cycles befor you just get in a nturn it on. this will give the fuel pump and other components a chance to turn on and get ready. if you want me to tell you about key cycles you can PM me
1.fuel
2.spark
3.air
if your missing one you will not work, you know for sure your getting spark the shop told you
you are sure that your getting air? or fuel. maybe try running some key cycles befor you just get in a nturn it on. this will give the fuel pump and other components a chance to turn on and get ready. if you want me to tell you about key cycles you can PM me
#16
The car has perfectly the same situation when the engine is hot especially.
I have to turn my key at leat 3 times. After started to the engine, everything is fine like good idle, accelaration and etc... I say that just normal.
Would let me know the way to clean tranny to the engine block more specifically? I knew what the dielectric grease and sand paper are. But what is the "antitrust"? I would like to know the whole process. Could you give an e-mail if you have picturs of the job? I will try your way as soon as you let me know.
I have to turn my key at leat 3 times. After started to the engine, everything is fine like good idle, accelaration and etc... I say that just normal.
Would let me know the way to clean tranny to the engine block more specifically? I knew what the dielectric grease and sand paper are. But what is the "antitrust"? I would like to know the whole process. Could you give an e-mail if you have picturs of the job? I will try your way as soon as you let me know.
Does your idle is good? If yes, you don't have an intake problem.
I maybe know whats wrong : you said after the cleaning everything was good. So my guess : rust and oxydation. If you clean the housebell and the engine block badly, the problem is fix for a while, until the oxidation come back.
It was my situation, use dielectric grease on the main screws (tranny to the engine block). Make sure that you remove all the antitrust with a sand paper.
Do specially the screws located under the car. In that way you sure that the oxidation wont come back.
Takes 20 minutes...
Does you problem look like this?:
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/8...8f0096156c.htm
I maybe know whats wrong : you said after the cleaning everything was good. So my guess : rust and oxydation. If you clean the housebell and the engine block badly, the problem is fix for a while, until the oxidation come back.
It was my situation, use dielectric grease on the main screws (tranny to the engine block). Make sure that you remove all the antitrust with a sand paper.
Do specially the screws located under the car. In that way you sure that the oxidation wont come back.
Takes 20 minutes...
Does you problem look like this?:
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/8...8f0096156c.htm
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