I was on my way home from work and I just got home now. I work 3rd shift.
On the way I hit the rev limiter on the freeway in 1st gear in traffic. Nothing happen so I keep going and I turn down the radio a few miles down and I hear this sound from the engine like a winning sound everytime I try and accelerate and I down shifted from 5th to 4th because the car had no power like it used to in 5th and the winning sound went away some but not completely and it would be worse when I would try and accelerate.
The engine also made this noise like a cammed VQ all the way through the RPM range but with no power and it sounded like it's not running on all 6 cylinders. Also did this before when I used to start the car sometimes after sitting overnight and sometimes I would be on the road and that cammed VQ sound went away and it would instantly get more power. The check engine light also came on and it flashed on and off until I got home. Anyone know whay it might be?

I don't even have time to check the CEL today. I'll sleep until 1PM and go to work again. Schools out now so I'm lucky.

 

Flashing CEL is multiple cylinder misfire. Try to use a (long) screwdriver to listen to the area where the sound is coming from.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=547220

Warning...





You have a 99? Could be the coils. Check the codes and read hte stickies

 

One or more of your cylinders are misfiring.

It could be any of these things:

Bad knock sensor.

Bad sparplugs.

Bad coilpack(s)

You are probably running on 5 cylinders right now. Does your idle drop and make the car shake for a split second when you are sitting at a light?

How long has it been since you changed your sparkplugs?

Until that problem is fixed, baby that car, you don't want to mess anything up.

 

Could I get coil packs from a 00 or 01 Maxima and install those? It cant be anything else because it is running on 5 cylinders sometimes. Where are those links to a 00 01 engine swap?

 

I'm not entirely sure if you can or not. You should message Dave B and ask. Or someone else in this forum will eventually be able to answer that.

 

no...you should look for pre-99

97/98 would be best

 

Anyone here have any links to the DE-K swap. A used one is only $300. I haven't had time to look.

 

the 2000-2001 front coils will definitely work, i'm using them right now. the rears, I'm not 100% sure. the rear valve cover is different between the de and de-k. I have the de-k rear valve cover on my car, so the 5th gen rear coils also fit. the bosses where the coil is screwed down are taller on the DE rear VC, so, thinking about it, I don't think the 5th gen rear coils will sit properly on the vq30de. if you have access to a 2000-2001 parts car, try 1 rear coil and see if it's able to screw in properly. if it does, then go for it. someone else will be able to confirm/expand on this.

ceasar is working on a DE-K swap right now:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=547083

 

I would rather use 95-98 coil packs. Alot of 99-01 had coil problems until the "grey dot" coils for the 5th gen came out.

 

I should have mentioned that. I made sure to order the grey dot set when i bought mine. actually got them brand new on ebay for $280 shipped, not too bad i guess

 

Is there a part # for the grey dot ones? I looked on ebay and I cant find coil packs that say grey dot anywhere.

 

No, no different part number that I know of. Why do you want to use 5th gen coil packs anyways?

 

I think that's the question of the day

 

I don't mean to steal your thread but I'm having the same problem.

My check engine light came on and my car has a rough idle. Actually the engine shakes quite a bit.

I did a check engine diagnostics and it came up with the code for a Cylinder 1 misfire and knock sensor.

Could the knock sensor cause the cylinder 1 misfire. Or are these two problems independent of each other?

And where can I find a cheap knock sensor???

 

A misfire can be due to a weak/faulty ign coil or a bad/clogged injector.

The knock sensor won't cause a misfire.

 

You can get a cheap OEM KS from ebay

 

I think the misfire is more likely to trigger the KS code. Price wise, the best place for both coilpacks (if you want a brand new one) and the KS will be ebay.
KS is about $63 shipped:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OEM-N...spagenameZWDVW

if you'd prefer used coils, you can also find them on ebay or go to a local junkyard for a faster turnaround time.

to confirm that the coil is your problem, I think that you can move the suspect coil to a different cylinder, and see if the code follows the coil. If it does, then you know for sure that that coil is your problem (and not an injector, etc).

 

there you go ^^^^^^^^^, thanks, 2pb

 

i need a better memory, someone will swing by and fill in the blanks. but off the top of my head the 3 front coil packs on the DE and DE-K are different in how they screw in. I believe DE-K coils only have 1 10 mm screw and the DE coils have 2 8 mm screws.

sorry if this is the wrong term but to get around that you could use a DE front valve cover. In the de-k swap for dummies thread, i fit both on the DE-K, and I cant remember if the coil pack connectors on the front 3 are the same on DE and DE-K. If they are the same then a front valve cover swap would work on that, if not you would have to cut and splice like we do on the 00VI swap, so we can use the 3 rear DE-K coils on the DE.

 

This forum is officialy messed up.

 

I don't. I'm thinking that if I buy brand new ones they will be faulty like the originals? Did they fix them or do they just keep making bad ones that are new?

Most of the time if there is something wrong with an OEM part and the car gen is over with they just keep selling the same bad part.

 

have you checked your injectors yet? i would be guessing that only because ive never seen a ignition coil come on and off as you described...

 

I haven't checked them. But the CEL flashes so it has to be a coil. I'll check the CEL today maybe.

 

It is the coilpack(s). Look at your spark plugs too while you are at it. I had the same problem and it turned out to be a coilpack and bad spark plugs. Take it from me, that is most likely the problem.

 

So the problem wasn't a bad coil or bad spark plugs but a dead fuel injector! All other injectors tested at 12 ohms while cylinder 1 injector didn't test at any ohms at all. Took apart the IM to get to it and it's removed, waiting on the part right now to get shipped in so I can install it. I took pictures as I did this job. Let me know if anyone needs them to help locate things because the pictures on the write-up are just terrible but text instructions are good!

Also cleaned the throttle body while I had everything taken apart.

Thanks maxima.org, couldn't have done this job without you all!

Hope you got your car fixed too Qbridg3!

 

Congrats on fixing your problem. I haven't even started fixing my car yet but I'll check the injectors. Thx for letting me know.

 

DUDE! You have a '99! Common now. Pull all the coil packs, if you see a small mitsubishi logo somewhere on them they are junk and you need to pick up some 95-98 Hanshin coils.