Alternator problems
03-10-2008, 08:24 AM
#41
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Unlocated. . .
Posts: 68
My 95 has had starting problems when i bought it. It would crank but wont turn over. I bought a new battery as a start to repair the problem as well as a tune-up. The day after i got my tune-up my car I made a few stops and it was fine. Until, i made one stop and was only gone for ten mins the car would not crank. The exterior/interior lights still worked when put on. I tried giving the battery a jump and seen a little bit of attempt to crank. Could this be an alternator problem? TIA
03-10-2008, 08:31 AM
#42
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Unlocated. . .
Posts: 68
My 95 has had starting problems when i bought it. It would crank but wont turn over. I bought a new battery as a start to repair the problem as well as a tune-up. The day after i got my tune-up my car I made a few stops and it was fine. Until, i made one stop and was only gone for ten mins the car would not crank. The exterior/interior lights still worked when put on. I tried giving the battery a jump and seen a little bit of attempt to crank. Could this be an alternator problem? TIA
06-14-2008, 10:32 PM
#43
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Silicon Valley
Posts: 655
Well, it is now my turn. The battery light came on and the voltage is around 12.xV. Took it to Sears and they confirmed it is the Alternator. But they would not replace the alternator due to the mounting location.
I remove it today. Took the belt off first. Removed the 4 bolts on the A/C compressor and then the two bolts holding the alternator. It slipped down past the dangling A/C compressor and it's out.
It is a 23100-0L701 Hitachi 110Amp model. There seems to be brush left but the whole brush holder, regulator, diode bridge is soldered to the field windings. So I am in the market for a new alternator.
Have not priced it out at the local dealer yet. The dealer in Arizona list it for $295+$30 S/H.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=1&catalogid=2
Any suggestions for a good price on a new alternator?
I remove it today. Took the belt off first. Removed the 4 bolts on the A/C compressor and then the two bolts holding the alternator. It slipped down past the dangling A/C compressor and it's out.
It is a 23100-0L701 Hitachi 110Amp model. There seems to be brush left but the whole brush holder, regulator, diode bridge is soldered to the field windings. So I am in the market for a new alternator.
Have not priced it out at the local dealer yet. The dealer in Arizona list it for $295+$30 S/H.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...=1&catalogid=2
Any suggestions for a good price on a new alternator?
06-21-2008, 04:47 PM
#44
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Silicon Valley
Posts: 655
Murano alternator in a 4th gen
A Nissan brand reman alternator for a Murano came up on eBay. After examining several eBay listings and googled lists, I decided to go for it and it only cost $60+S/H.
It went in the car today and worked fine.
Here are the details:
Old Hitachi 12V 110Amp alternator (I30):
Nissan part#: 23100-0L701
Hitachi part#: LR1110-709B
New Hitachi 12V 110Amp alternator (Murano):
Nissan part#: 2310M-CN01AR or 23100-2Y006RX (older)
Hitachi part#: LR1110-723ER
After looking at several Hitachi alternator type lists, my guess to what the Hitachi parts numbers mean is as following:
1-3 characters: LR1=12V, LR2=24V
4-6 characters: 110=110amp, 125=125amp etc
7-10 characters: mounting ear versions, terminal types, design changes etc
11 character: R=reman
The Murano alternator has same mounting ears and electrical terminals, so it went in my I30 without a hitch.
It went in the car today and worked fine.
Here are the details:
Old Hitachi 12V 110Amp alternator (I30):
Nissan part#: 23100-0L701
Hitachi part#: LR1110-709B
New Hitachi 12V 110Amp alternator (Murano):
Nissan part#: 2310M-CN01AR or 23100-2Y006RX (older)
Hitachi part#: LR1110-723ER
After looking at several Hitachi alternator type lists, my guess to what the Hitachi parts numbers mean is as following:
1-3 characters: LR1=12V, LR2=24V
4-6 characters: 110=110amp, 125=125amp etc
7-10 characters: mounting ear versions, terminal types, design changes etc
11 character: R=reman
The Murano alternator has same mounting ears and electrical terminals, so it went in my I30 without a hitch.
Last edited by SVI30; 06-21-2008 at 04:50 PM.
06-29-2008, 07:12 PM
#45
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Townsville, Australia
Posts: 538
Since it's been a long time, I'm confident now I have solved the problem of repeated blown alternators.
This would have to have been the worst thing to deal with when it came to owning Maxima's. We went through about 3 alternators before we found out what the problem was.
What I did in the end to fix the problem was run a separate ground and positive wire from the grounding bolt and surrounding chassis on the alternator to the battery. I also cut the harness off that connects to the alternator and created one I was certain would connect and not fail. I just used custom clips.
After this - no blown alternator.
I also installed a grounding kit as I figured it must have been a grounding issue. One night I was driving along and the headlights dimmed and the stereo stopped then came back on again. The alternator was fine but I thought there must be an issue there and thats when I decided a grounding issue was killing the alternator.
When the alternator can't discharge, the diodes blow - you always need a very reliable connection on alternators.
I hope this helps.
This would have to have been the worst thing to deal with when it came to owning Maxima's. We went through about 3 alternators before we found out what the problem was.
What I did in the end to fix the problem was run a separate ground and positive wire from the grounding bolt and surrounding chassis on the alternator to the battery. I also cut the harness off that connects to the alternator and created one I was certain would connect and not fail. I just used custom clips.
After this - no blown alternator.
I also installed a grounding kit as I figured it must have been a grounding issue. One night I was driving along and the headlights dimmed and the stereo stopped then came back on again. The alternator was fine but I thought there must be an issue there and thats when I decided a grounding issue was killing the alternator.
When the alternator can't discharge, the diodes blow - you always need a very reliable connection on alternators.
I hope this helps.
Last edited by jordandalley; 06-30-2008 at 04:04 PM.
07-04-2008, 03:31 PM
#46
^^^And back to my original post , #32
FIRST, put a GOOD ground on the alternator, and load test the battery (free at autozone/etc if you dont have access to a load tester).
EDIT: be sure that you remove/disconnect the battery before it's load tested, some shops dont do this, but it is necessary.
Then you take it from there.
Also make sure the ground from your battery is good it is located just between the battery and the air box on the wheelwell.
After you assure that is good, then start looking at harnesses, and escpecially main power wiring from the alternator to the battery.
EDIT: be sure that you remove/disconnect the battery before it's load tested, some shops dont do this, but it is necessary.
Then you take it from there.
Also make sure the ground from your battery is good it is located just between the battery and the air box on the wheelwell.
After you assure that is good, then start looking at harnesses, and escpecially main power wiring from the alternator to the battery.
11-30-2011, 02:16 PM
#47
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 13
Mechanic claimed that Alternator busted after Harness repair is that possible?
I'm a noobie and thought this maybe the best place to post my issue. I've been having issues with my 1999 Maxima (180K miles) over the last 6 mnths, the Air Bag and Seat Belt lights start flashing on and off and engine stalls and car does not start when these lights are flashing. Otherwise it runs fine, but this problem had become more frequent and worse, and finally couple of days ago stopped while I was driving. Over the course and recently I've changed the Alternator (2.5 yrs), Battery (4 mnths) and Starter (2 mnths)... so when I took it to Sears they told me it was an electrical issue since everything else checks out fine.
So finally I took it to the auto electric specialist, they charged $85 for the diagnostic. After the diagnosis they found that there was a problem in the engine harness and voltage level coming into the ECU or Main control unit was low which most probably would be the cause of all the issues and it had to be repaired (but they will not know for sure until they fix the harness and get power back to normal levels). This cost me $500 where they opened the harness and fixed the wires that were damaged, he also mentioned before starting the harness job that in 10% of the cases when they repair the harness that the alternator can get damaged when everything is reattached. So the harness was fixed and now the mechanic tells me that the alternator got damaged and I'm unfortunately one of 5% - 10% of folks it happened too
. He can't really explain why it happens and mentioned it can be due to change is resistance and several other factors, tells me that he cannot really explain it but in 5% -10% of all harness replacement/repair jobs it happens. I'm basically SOL and told him to go ahead replace the alternator which is another $300. My question to the experts, does this sound logical and have you come across or experienced similar issues while repairing the harness wiring. The mechanic sounds honest and was recommended by a friend, but I also don't want get ripped off and have this strange feeling that I'm spending more than I should.
Please help with your inputs!!!
So finally I took it to the auto electric specialist, they charged $85 for the diagnostic. After the diagnosis they found that there was a problem in the engine harness and voltage level coming into the ECU or Main control unit was low which most probably would be the cause of all the issues and it had to be repaired (but they will not know for sure until they fix the harness and get power back to normal levels). This cost me $500 where they opened the harness and fixed the wires that were damaged, he also mentioned before starting the harness job that in 10% of the cases when they repair the harness that the alternator can get damaged when everything is reattached. So the harness was fixed and now the mechanic tells me that the alternator got damaged and I'm unfortunately one of 5% - 10% of folks it happened too
. He can't really explain why it happens and mentioned it can be due to change is resistance and several other factors, tells me that he cannot really explain it but in 5% -10% of all harness replacement/repair jobs it happens. I'm basically SOL and told him to go ahead replace the alternator which is another $300. My question to the experts, does this sound logical and have you come across or experienced similar issues while repairing the harness wiring. The mechanic sounds honest and was recommended by a friend, but I also don't want get ripped off and have this strange feeling that I'm spending more than I should. Please help with your inputs!!!
11-30-2011, 02:59 PM
#48
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
I'm a noobie and thought this maybe the best place to post my issue. I've been having issues with my 1999 Maxima (180K miles) over the last 6 mnths, the Air Bag and Seat Belt lights start flashing on and off and engine stalls and car does not start when these lights are flashing. Otherwise it runs fine, but this problem had become more frequent and worse, and finally couple of days ago stopped while I was driving. Over the course and recently I've changed the Alternator (2.5 yrs), Battery (4 mnths) and Starter (2 mnths)... so when I took it to Sears they told me it was an electrical issue since everything else checks out fine.
So finally I took it to the auto electric specialist, they charged $85 for the diagnostic. After the diagnosis they found that there was a problem in the engine harness and voltage level coming into the ECU or Main control unit was low which most probably would be the cause of all the issues and it had to be repaired (but they will not know for sure until they fix the harness and get power back to normal levels). This cost me $500 where they opened the harness and fixed the wires that were damaged, he also mentioned before starting the harness job that in 10% of the cases when they repair the harness that the alternator can get damaged when everything is reattached. So the harness was fixed and now the mechanic tells me that the alternator got damaged and I'm unfortunately one of 5% - 10% of folks it happened too. He can't really explain why it happens and mentioned it can be due to change is resistance and several other factors, tells me that he cannot really explain it but in 5% -10% of all harness replacement/repair jobs it happens. I'm basically SOL and told him to go ahead replace the alternator which is another $300. My question to the experts, does this sound logical and have you come across or experienced similar issues while repairing the harness wiring. The mechanic sounds honest and was recommended by a friend, but I also don't want get ripped off and have this strange feeling that I'm spending more than I should.
Please help with your inputs!!!
So finally I took it to the auto electric specialist, they charged $85 for the diagnostic. After the diagnosis they found that there was a problem in the engine harness and voltage level coming into the ECU or Main control unit was low which most probably would be the cause of all the issues and it had to be repaired (but they will not know for sure until they fix the harness and get power back to normal levels). This cost me $500 where they opened the harness and fixed the wires that were damaged, he also mentioned before starting the harness job that in 10% of the cases when they repair the harness that the alternator can get damaged when everything is reattached. So the harness was fixed and now the mechanic tells me that the alternator got damaged and I'm unfortunately one of 5% - 10% of folks it happened too
. He can't really explain why it happens and mentioned it can be due to change is resistance and several other factors, tells me that he cannot really explain it but in 5% -10% of all harness replacement/repair jobs it happens. I'm basically SOL and told him to go ahead replace the alternator which is another $300. My question to the experts, does this sound logical and have you come across or experienced similar issues while repairing the harness wiring. The mechanic sounds honest and was recommended by a friend, but I also don't want get ripped off and have this strange feeling that I'm spending more than I should. Please help with your inputs!!!
11-30-2011, 04:01 PM
#50
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 10,349
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