I really need my keyless fixed
Ok i took a look at the fsm for you.
The signal wire(data line) to lock unlock and panic isn't a basic gound. I'm not sure what kind of signal it is.
The trunk is though as you found out.
You have two connectors on the control unit?
One is for the antenna wire.
The other connector has 5 wires.
black = ground So you should have continuity from this wire to the chassis.
purple/yellow = ground for trunk solenoid
pink = power So you should have 12 volts.
red/black = data line a
red/yellow = data line b
Check to see if theres power at the pink wire..
The signal wire(data line) to lock unlock and panic isn't a basic gound. I'm not sure what kind of signal it is.
The trunk is though as you found out.
You have two connectors on the control unit?
One is for the antenna wire.
The other connector has 5 wires.
black = ground So you should have continuity from this wire to the chassis.
purple/yellow = ground for trunk solenoid
pink = power So you should have 12 volts.
red/black = data line a
red/yellow = data line b
Check to see if theres power at the pink wire..
i have 2 connectors yes, one is single wire grey connector and the other is a harness with the bundle of wires including the signal wires.
thanks for checkin it. if all that checks out (which im fairly confident it will) what does that point us to? the module itself or the antenna in the window, right?
The thick wires are the ground and the ground for the trunk solenoid.
I just checked my car. Both data lines have around two volts to them. When the lock or unlock button on the remote is pressed the voltage changes slightly.
So see if there around two volts to each of the data lines.
I just checked my car. Both data lines have around two volts to them. When the lock or unlock button on the remote is pressed the voltage changes slightly.
So see if there around two volts to each of the data lines.
well it sound as if you do go into programming mode, but your key fob doesnt work.as for me i do the key in key out 6 time thing and my hazards dont flash, so i havent bought any key fob as yet. i shall check my trunk tommorow for that unit, plug it out and back in after a while and see if that helped in anyway at all.
Last edited by Snypa; Feb 13, 2008 at 06:15 PM.
ok,so i finally found out my problem.that unit thats suppose to be in the trunk apparently isnt there.so im now on the hunt for that part and dont even know the name.help me out orgerz.
download the fsm maual, was that what you mennt? ok, but im now looking for the unit itself, as mine isnt there, so i suspect thats why my theft system and programming key method isnt working.
crap sorry. todays my bday and i've been running all over the place...got a test tomorrow..its just hectic. tomorrow im gonna find a spare minute to check it out.
assuming there is 2 volts to it that would point to the window/antenna wouldnt it?
assuming there is 2 volts to it that would point to the window/antenna wouldnt it?
Happy birthday. I'm sorry but that would be a crappy birthday being on valentines day LOL.
I just did a test for you. I unplugged the antenna from the unit. The remote would only work if i was a foot away from it.
So heres something else to try. Have a buddy help you try to program the remote. You sit in the drivers seat and do the sequence while he is in the trunk with the remote.
I just did a test for you. I unplugged the antenna from the unit. The remote would only work if i was a foot away from it.
So heres something else to try. Have a buddy help you try to program the remote. You sit in the drivers seat and do the sequence while he is in the trunk with the remote.
Happy birthday. I'm sorry but that would be a crappy birthday being on valentines day LOL.
I just did a test for you. I unplugged the antenna from the unit. The remote would only work if i was a foot away from it.
So heres something else to try. Have a buddy help you try to program the remote. You sit in the drivers seat and do the sequence while he is in the trunk with the remote.
I just did a test for you. I unplugged the antenna from the unit. The remote would only work if i was a foot away from it.
So heres something else to try. Have a buddy help you try to program the remote. You sit in the drivers seat and do the sequence while he is in the trunk with the remote.
oh it has to be THAT close huh? verrry interesting. well...i'll definitely try that then. I appreciate your helpfulness! if the antenna is broke im gonna be pretty p.o.'d. I cant believe that tint shop screwed up my defroster like that. shadiest most imcompetent @##!ers ever.
where is the antenna that you plugged in/unplugged? the rear window?
thanks. i like it, girls like it, but then again...i am on the org right now 10pm..what does that say
oh it has to be THAT close huh? verrry interesting. well...i'll definitely try that then. I appreciate your helpfulness! if the antenna is broke im gonna be pretty p.o.'d. I cant believe that tint shop screwed up my defroster like that. shadiest most imcompetent @##!ers ever.
where is the antenna that you plugged in/unplugged? the rear window?
oh it has to be THAT close huh? verrry interesting. well...i'll definitely try that then. I appreciate your helpfulness! if the antenna is broke im gonna be pretty p.o.'d. I cant believe that tint shop screwed up my defroster like that. shadiest most imcompetent @##!ers ever.
where is the antenna that you plugged in/unplugged? the rear window?
alright i was out there just checking hte voltage on every wire. The black thick one which I'm guessing is the ground, had no voltage. The other thick one had ..i want to say it was about 12 volts. There were two to the right that had about 2 volts and 2.7 volts. The last one had some odd number like 3 or something. Obviously I forgot what the colors were.
I had my dad pressing the button during programming for the remote with the antenna unplugged. nothing happened..the remote wouldnt program, and that was 2 different remotes.
I had my dad pressing the button during programming for the remote with the antenna unplugged. nothing happened..the remote wouldnt program, and that was 2 different remotes.
alright i was out there just checking hte voltage on every wire. The black thick one which I'm guessing is the ground, had no voltage. The other thick one had ..i want to say it was about 12 volts. There were two to the right that had about 2 volts and 2.7 volts. The last one had some odd number like 3 or something. Obviously I forgot what the colors were.
I had my dad pressing the button during programming for the remote with the antenna unplugged. nothing happened..the remote wouldnt program, and that was 2 different remotes.
I had my dad pressing the button during programming for the remote with the antenna unplugged. nothing happened..the remote wouldnt program, and that was 2 different remotes.
black = ground So you should have continuity from this wire to the chassis.
purple/yellow = should have 12 volts
3 smaller wires
pink = power So you should have 12 volts.
red/black = data line a should have around 2.1 or 2.7 volts
red/yellow = data line b should also have around 2.1 or 2.7 volts
So it's the pink wire that only has three volts? If so it's suppose to have twelve volts so theres the problem. Check fuse 40. It's at the very top right of the interior fuse box.
Two thick wires
black = ground So you should have continuity from this wire to the chassis.
purple/yellow = should have 12 volts
3 smaller wires
pink = power So you should have 12 volts.
red/black = data line a should have around 2.1 or 2.7 volts
red/yellow = data line b should also have around 2.1 or 2.7 volts
So it's the pink wire that only has three volts? If so it's suppose to have twelve volts so theres the problem. Check fuse 40. It's at the very top right of the interior fuse box.
black = ground So you should have continuity from this wire to the chassis.
purple/yellow = should have 12 volts
3 smaller wires
pink = power So you should have 12 volts.
red/black = data line a should have around 2.1 or 2.7 volts
red/yellow = data line b should also have around 2.1 or 2.7 volts
So it's the pink wire that only has three volts? If so it's suppose to have twelve volts so theres the problem. Check fuse 40. It's at the very top right of the interior fuse box.
okay all the wires check out except the pink wire is only getting the 3 volts like you/i said. It cant be the 40 fuse because I replaced that just today when it blew out due to the loose exposed unconnected radio antenna wire in the trunk.
why would it only be putting 3 volts i dont understand. nothing to do with the shifter selector cable from the 5speed swap, right?
why would it only be putting 3 volts i dont understand. nothing to do with the shifter selector cable from the 5speed swap, right?
The radio antenna has nothing to do with that fuse.The antenna is grounded though so if it touched the pink wire it could have blown. Pull out that fuse and check for power right there.
what are you saying to do pull out what fuse and check for power where? I have gone through every single fuse in that fuse box like last weekend so I'm skeptical that one is blown.
the pink wire that used to go to the radio antenna is hanging loose. if it touches metal it blows that number 40 fuse immediately. its happened a few times.
what are you saying to do pull out what fuse and check for power where? I have gone through every single fuse in that fuse box like last weekend so I'm skeptical that one is blown.
what are you saying to do pull out what fuse and check for power where? I have gone through every single fuse in that fuse box like last weekend so I'm skeptical that one is blown.
Pull out fuse # 40 There is two contacts where the fuse plugs into one will have power one will not. That is the purpose of the fuse.
the power behind the fuse is about 12. and the power to the pink radio antenna wire is 12.7 or somethin like that. theres a 3rd wire hanging there to the radio antenna which is black/red i believe and it only had 3 volts if i remember correctly. Ive had the black wire to the radio antenna grounded, to a bolt.
This is really odd. The pink wire going to the control unit should have 12 volts. I'm not sure why it doesn't while the antenna and the fuse on the same circuit do.
Try this cut the pink wire for the unit back from the connector some. Take the pink wire that went to the antenna which has 12 volts and wire it into the pink wire which goes to the unit. The unit will know have 12 volts. Check to make sure.
The other end of the wire you cut should still have 3 volts just tape the end of it off so it's not hanging loose with an open wire which will blow fuses.
Now try programming the remote.
Try this cut the pink wire for the unit back from the connector some. Take the pink wire that went to the antenna which has 12 volts and wire it into the pink wire which goes to the unit. The unit will know have 12 volts. Check to make sure.
The other end of the wire you cut should still have 3 volts just tape the end of it off so it's not hanging loose with an open wire which will blow fuses.
Now try programming the remote.
This is really odd. The pink wire going to the control unit should have 12 volts. I'm not sure why it doesn't while the antenna and the fuse on the same circuit do.
Try this cut the pink wire for the unit back from the connector some. Take the pink wire that went to the antenna which has 12 volts and wire it into the pink wire which goes to the unit. The unit will know have 12 volts. Check to make sure.
The other end of the wire you cut should still have 3 volts just tape the end of it off so it's not hanging loose with an open wire which will blow fuses.
Now try programming the remote.
Try this cut the pink wire for the unit back from the connector some. Take the pink wire that went to the antenna which has 12 volts and wire it into the pink wire which goes to the unit. The unit will know have 12 volts. Check to make sure.
The other end of the wire you cut should still have 3 volts just tape the end of it off so it's not hanging loose with an open wire which will blow fuses.
Now try programming the remote.
i'll go swap those wires in a bit and see what happens
alright good news. i swapped the pink wires and now the keyless thing works completely normal. My only concern is that if the old pink wire was maybe restricted from receiving power for some safety reason? I dont know, im just wondering why it would not be supplying enough power when it used to.
Just want to prevent from something weird happening in the future.
thanks for your help fanatic
Just want to prevent from something weird happening in the future.
thanks for your help fanatic
Member
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 91
I have been key locking my doors for TOO long now. the remote does not work. the alarm does, just the remote(s) keyless entry/ etc. It intermittently was on and off and now its completely out. It is NOT the remote, i have tried unplugging/replugging in and even replacing the unit in the trunk...no luck. Checked the fuses...no luck there either.
this system can not be that complicated.
the only things I'm wondering is if it has anything to do with my rear defroster because the tint place screwed that up awhile back and i thought maybe the antenna for the remote ran through that or something. I dont know really but i want this to work.
someone has got to be familiar with this system. do relays just go bad? thats the only thing i havent replaced.
thanks
this system can not be that complicated.
the only things I'm wondering is if it has anything to do with my rear defroster because the tint place screwed that up awhile back and i thought maybe the antenna for the remote ran through that or something. I dont know really but i want this to work.
someone has got to be familiar with this system. do relays just go bad? thats the only thing i havent replaced.
thanks
From every thing i have seen in the fsm the wire comes directly from the fuse box to the control unit. Did you do any rewiring work to your car around the time this started happening? Didn't you say you grounded all the wires before including the pink one? Did the fuse blow then? Try grounding that pink 3volt wire and see if the fuse blows.
From every thing i have seen in the fsm the wire comes directly from the fuse box to the control unit. Did you do any rewiring work to your car around the time this started happening? Didn't you say you grounded all the wires before including the pink one? Did the fuse blow then? Try grounding that pink 3volt wire and see if the fuse blows.
the fuse blew when i grounded the 12v pink one, i dont think it blew when i grounded the black/red wire though. I will try grounding that 3v pink wire next time i go out there, just got all my wires all clean and bundled!
I did plan on eventually hooking up a radio antenna but nothing that would need to extend so I probably wouldnt need that extra power wire in that case, right?
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 8
From: Des Moines
Same problem
I am having the same problems on my daughter's '96. Where is the control unit located in the trunk? The temps have been hovering around 5 degrees for the past several days which doesn't allow me much time for a search mission - if you know what I mean.
Its by the jack, probably behind the plastic sidewall. I haven't had my plastic pieces in there for years so I'm not positive. Its not hard to get to really, best you can do is just go look for it.
Newbie - Just Registered
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 4
From: Charleston, SC
I added tint to my Nissan Last Week. Since I've Added it, I've lost about 75% of the range on my keyless entry. Is there a workaround I can do to resolve this? I.E. a way to use the Radio antenna?
They don't have long range. Try changing your fob battery, or get an aftermarket alarm. I can lock/unlock/remote start mine from about half a mile to a mile if nothing is in the way.
exactly ditch the oe system and get an after market alarm if its done right you will have 2 alarms when you lock the doors you tap a certin wire in the drivers side switch and its arms the alarm system with a double pulse. and ur after market alarm will be armed as well. it worked out extreamly well for my remote starter system.
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