Well the story is I swapped over my auto for a 5spd about a year ago.
Recently I've been having issues with the trans.
If I accidentally hit small pot holes, or something, my trans likes to engage in a random gear, while the shifter fork is in a different spot. SO basically not allowing me to shift at all, and haven it getting it towed.

Any idea, this is the second weekend straight with the same problem.

FIXED New problem post 10.

 

Probably damage to one of the shifter detente springs, or it was rebuilt and not assembled correctly.

You can check the springs with the oil out and still on the car, but if it's an assembly error you need it rebuilt.

Dave

 

they toshi who rebuilt the trans anyways???

 

I do the trans work myself.
if it is simple enough, But most of the credit goes to DaveSZ.

I can drop a trans and take it apart within 2hour or less.


I took the trans apart and as Dave mentioned the spring was f-ed up.
Where can I get one, I heard they are on back order. If not you can't just buy that spring, but as a set with something.

 

I have a couple of those laying around. You want the short one that goes at the top of the 1-2 or 3-4 shift rod, right?

Dave

 

I need the long one. THe one for all the gears.

 

that sounds real serious man.

 

IIRC, the long spring is for the R detent? Just make sure not to loose the check ball!

 

Yeah, check ***** are kind of a pain to handle.

By the way, does the check ***** tend to wear down after time?

Also when replacing the spring, should I replace all the springs just for extra measures?
If so, Dave I need 2short spring and one long one.

 

another problem with my trans. After fixing the previous problem, I now have grinding problems.

Well the story is I'll be driving in first, then when I try to engage second gear it will grind then engage. OR I'll be driving in third and down shift into second it will grind then engage. Or I'll be sitting at the light in neutral, and just to check my second gear is messed up I will try to engage second gear after pressing down on the clutch pedal, it will grind.

So what is wrong with my trans???

Thanks guys

 

2nd gear syncro is shot.

You really should rebuild the whole thing at this point.

 

GL 5 gear oil will cause syncorz to only be effective for 1/2 their normal life span .... did you use GL 5 or did someone else in your trany? The make up of 5 is different than GL 4 and the 5 can cause different metals to break down.

Untill you can rebuild the trans ... or get a new one (very pricey!!!!) try double clutching between 1st and second / 3rd and second. If you need a rebuild kit, check out GT Transmissions (Guy IIRC is the mate's name) and they were fairly well priced for my kit (w/o syncorz btw). G'luck

 

Thanks guys.

So time to get syncros.
Also what does the rebuild consist of?

I also forgot to mention, if I shift very slowly it does not grind.

 

That's quite a generalization. If anyone on this forum has been outspoken about using GL-4s only, it's me. But I've never said/heard anything that extreme.

As for the synchros, it's possible they are damaged. It's also possible you have other things going on in the tranny as well, or damaged shifter dog teeth. Replacing synchros (and bearings and seals, which are the basic rebuild), will not always take care of the damage. I'm not saying a rebuild won't fix it, but I am saying that replacing the synchros is not the categorical solution.

Dave

 

Kit should include, but not be limmited to .... diff seals (pass / drivers are different sizes!), striking rod seal (where the shift rod comes out of the trany) and all bearings. (Main shaft, Input shaft, and Diff (x2) bearings). This is the kit that I got from GT Trans ... no syncroz but all bearings and seals. Was not that bad a job and my write up will help if you are a "Do it yourself" type person. As long as you have the tools you'll need and the time, no reason you can't do it. Here's a link to my write up ... I'm just gonna put this in my sig so it's easier!

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....121&highlight=


Oh .. and in the mean time! Shift_s l o w ....

 

http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.c...=120197&page=1

Dave ... and all I guess. This is what I was trying to say in so many words. I read the same thing before, but can't find it now of course and I think it was on RedLine's site .... for the life of me, I wish I could recall. The second and third posts on that site give good info. I was a bit unhappy with a mate of mine who put GL 5 into his Maxima. We got it changed out, but it was a waste of money for him and I feel bad.

So ... Dave, I am right there with ya mate! Advocate for the right fluid for the propper parts~!~

Jim


Ok ... sorry for this, was searching - found it ... thought I'd share will all! This is from a post in the Fluids forums here on the .Org

When Ed talks, Talkinghorse ... we listen. Post #7 is what I wanted to point out directly though ...

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?p=6320041

 

Nissan issued a TSB (after the publishing of the FSMs) that stated GL-5 was acceptable. However, I heard that this was because GL-4 was too hard for the dealers to find (and of course they were not going to buy an aftermarket oil like Amsoil or Redline), and the dealers put tremendous pressure on Nissan to let them do it. Since the vast majority of the GL-4 cars were out of warranty, Nissan relented. Of course, when a mfr says something is ok because it won't affect the car within the warranty period, that's a red flag.

As for the GL-4 being a better choice: the synchros rely on friction to work. GL-5s have different friction coefficient than GL-4s. The extra additives of GL-5s are not necessary since our trannys don't have a hypoid or spiral bevel. In fact, some GL-5s are downright corrosive.

Back to tranny rebuilds: you missed the most important element: checking the endplay of the bearings and reshimming as required. It's rare that I find the original shims still fit the transmission correctly.

Dave

 

Dave ... you are correct once again mate. lol Only on my 5spd, when I tore it apart, I didn't have any shims under the outter race - in the cups. Would this account for a not sortta "thudding" noise as I pull in my driveway (bit of a bump, not too bad, but it seems to only happen then that I can tell)? I really pray to the Maxima Godz that my diff is not just slapping back and forth. lol I'd think it would be leaking if it was ... and it's not so ... maybe I am ok.

 

Thanks again.

Yeah I already replaced all the bearing, and the seals a year ago. Just to let you know.

 

If you're sitting still and you get grinds trying to shift, you have a clutch problem.

Oh, and no I don't replace check springs unless I see they're damaged.

Dave

 

is there any way to see if the synchros are in poor condition after the tranny is apart? i didnt buy the kit with the synchros but sometimes I get a grinding too even when my clutch is in. I thought it was a clutch problem because the clutch always engages at a different point which is something I have to mess with at the pedal/master cylinder.

 

im also worried about the grinding itself..what damage that has done

 

I replaced all check springs and check *****. Except for the check ball for reverse.

If it is a clutch problem, wouldn't it grind in all gears? Mine only grinds in second.

 

I dont know if this is even remotely related to your problem but depending on how you installed your master cylinder (spacer thickness from firewall) you could have some preload on your master cylinder. I believe thats the problem with my car at least, the clutch seems to engage differently EVERY time. either that or the MC is not holding pressure properly.
I grind gears occasionally too so I basically just ride the clutch when I shift to make sure im getting a smooth transaction and the gear is in-fact selected. im gonna mess with it when i do my rebuild. i donno...just a thought.

 

I'll look into the master cylinder and slave cylinder issue.

Today when I drove I noticed that it didn't grind at all when the car was slightly cold, but as I kept driving I started to notice that it was starting to slightly grind.

 

toshi let me take a look at it.. i had a similar problem and it ended up being the master cylinder...

 

^^^ That's cool ... you guys are close enough to do that! I actually bought my 98' Maxima in Streemwood. Small world. Hope you get it figured out.

 

Nice sebastian, I'll give you a call or something when i'm free.
but i've been busy so I don't know when this is going to be taken care of.
Funny thing is I had Dave SZ sit in my car while I drove and it didn't grind even once.
But after he left it started to grind again. LOL

Jtzmax, never knew you bought your car in Streamwood

 

Isn't that just par for the course! I mean, you try and show / explain to someone about something and then of course, it will not do it when you "want" it to. lol

Yea, got my Max at 83k form a guy who moved to NY for school but left his car with his parents. I actually went to Chi to see my g/f (who now moved down here) and to look at a couple 5spd Maximas. None in this area .... or if they are, they're pricey $$$. So, she found this one for me on CraigsList. Just not sure which I love more at this point, the g/f or my Maxima. lol

 

yeah thats true, it doesn't work when you try to show someone. Funny how things work out.

Well what do you love more.... g/f or maxima. Tough to decide isn't it.