JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

Well .... I'm not sure what the noise is, but it's coming from the pass. side front wheel. Not the CV, just changed it (from Raxles!) so I wonder if it's maybe the wheel bearing? It makes noise when I hit a small bump or turn (doesn't matter how sharp of a turn) and it's getting louder. Do ball joints make noise? I don't recall ever hearing them, but I guess that may be it also. My guess is the wheel bearing though .... so, how can I be certain?

Thanks!

emoore924

Wheel bearing is usually going to give you a consistent grum-grum-grum noise that changes frequency +/- with speed. CVs usually click when they fail, or go thunk-thunk once when you shift if they're really really bad. If you're clunking when you go over a bump, that's unlikey to be a wheel bearing. I'd guess tie rod, or more likely sway bar bushing. Maybe a strut top or ball joint.

To check the wheel bearing, do this:

1) Chock opposite wheel.
2) Raise corner of car so the wheel you want to check is off the ground.
3) Grab tire at 12 and 6. Push in at 12 and pull out at 6, then quickly reverse.
4) If you feel a clunk as you push/pull in and out, wheel bearing, or your tire could be loose I suppose.
5) Grab tire at 9 and 3. Push in/pull out. If you feel a clunk then, tie rod or steering rack or something else.

If you have a sway bar, look at your bushings where the bar attaches to the cross member and the drop links to the a-arms. They both wear out and the car will clunk in the front.

Ball joints require someone that knows what they're looking to put your car on a lift and stress the joint with a big pry bar. If you think this might be it (and they are known to wear out on the Max), get it checked by someone that knows what they're doing. Why? Because when the ball joint fails, the wheel essentially falls off -- which results in a catastrophic failure.

Look at the strut top and see if there's any shiny metal around the mount. Or jack up the car and put another jack under the a-arm to compress and release the strut. Check the top to see whether anything's moving around. The strut top bearings don't usually fail so I would bet on something else first.

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

well ... I did this and no shakes, ratles, or nuthin! ???? Now I'm even more confused! lol The strut top seems ok, FSTB is tight and nuts are tight. Put a pipe under the wheel with the car in the air and pulled up ... nothing. (Not sure that I was compressing the strut .... but checking the ball joint).

HELP! lol

emoore924

Do you have a sway bar? Did you check the bushings and drop links?

A sway bar is a different thing than a FSTB...

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

I didn't see anything that attached to the X member .... just the A arm, tie rod end (inner / outter), ball joint, 1/2 shaft, and control arm .... not sure what else to look for

Love_00_Max

I just replaced my bearings and as someone referred to there was a very faint hum sound from the passenger side wheel area. Let me tell you that diagnosing a wheel bearing problem while is has begun to fail is almost impossible except for an expert. Now this 6'clock and 12'clock shake for play will be true when your bearings are really shot (check google vides...).

Now I did the shake exercise and there was no play whatsoever. What you could do to determine a worn bearing is get the rotor/brakes off, axle off and then using the wheel studs rotate the hub. Usually a bad bearing will bind making it difficult to rotate. A very loose bearing meaning multiple circles when the hub is rotated freely means also a bearing failure. In both cases the bearing is shot.

Hope this helps, I went with Timken ($90) and $80 for pushing old ones out and pressing new ones in.

tbergma1

I got some kragen cheapies for $20 a piece, have had them on for 20k and no problems. It cost me $60 dollars to get them pressed in. If your lucky your hub didnt get messed up. If it did I bought one from the dealer for about $150.

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

so .... with no shake on the wheel, that doesn't mean all is ok then? i'm under the impression that it is a bushing of sorts, but which one i dunno. could i spray them with anything to soften them up (do one at a time to rule them out) but not hurt them? i'd like to do struts, but no $$$ at the moment.

also ... as for the hub, if it does need to be done, can it be done on the car? i'm gonna guess no from looking at it, but i'm just trying to avoid the need for an alignment. cheap arss ... i know! aren't we all? lol

Sounbwoy

iTrader: (2)

I just had to replace the left front bearing (actually I had to buy a new hub as well). There was no shake when using the shaking procedure mentioned above. What there was, was noise; a lot of it. The whirring noise was there, and as it got worse, there were clunks and metallic rubbing noises when loading was placed on that side. In addition, my axle nut would come loose over time. If you have high mileage, and you suspect something, I'd just replace them. The right side hub was fine, but I had a new bearing pressed in anyway.
Getting the hubs off is not a big deal. Be careful with using hammers on lower ball joints, unless you plan to replace them as well, as I am. I'm updating my progress in another thread as I go.

JtzMax

iTrader: (5)

ok ... ruled it down to the sway bushings, so ... 0.86 c x 4 and i'm out the door! just gotta get em on now. time time time, why can't anyone make more of that for a change? lol

Also was told (after much asking) that a typical wheel bearing going / gone will cause vibration on the steering wheel at speed. I did my hub bearings in my old celica - supra a LONG azz time ago, but I've slept and drank a few beers in the years and forgot all about it till my dad mentioned it. Funny how time makes you forget ...

HomerMAC

iTrader: (5)

this news is good.. i was thinking about selling the car if it was another tranmission problem.. with my 2001AE that i jsut picked up... THANK GOD... YAY!

Maxie40

The noise is in my front driver side wheel and it sounds like metal disks clanging. My steering is off but the car doesn't pull and when I let go of the wheel it rides straight. No vibration in the wheel. I am about to replace my front struts and springs think that might help? The ball joint scares me though, NY roads are rough.

Maxie40

Turned out the noise was an aftermarket brake caliper that had come loose. My dealer of 10 years fixed the problem. My mechanic is history.