Strut Specialists - Strut install Question
#1
Strut Specialists - Strut install Question
Removed my strut to fix my strut noise (as discrived in "sticky note"). I found that the strut insulator that normally had a "D" shaped hole that fits the "D" shaped shaft had worn to more of a "O" shape and the "D" shape at the top of the strut also was stripped. I think this accounts for the loud clunk I was getting (i.e. it would turn part way then slip on the strut).
While disassembling I noticed that on top of the spring perch one side has says "out". This wasn't to the outside of the car when I removed it. Don't know if it was installed wrong or had changed due to the stripped insuslator. Chilton's manual makes no mention of putting the spring perch on any particular way. Should this part of the perch face the outside of the car (seems logical) or does the out mean something else?
While disassembling I noticed that on top of the spring perch one side has says "out". This wasn't to the outside of the car when I removed it. Don't know if it was installed wrong or had changed due to the stripped insuslator. Chilton's manual makes no mention of putting the spring perch on any particular way. Should this part of the perch face the outside of the car (seems logical) or does the out mean something else?
#2
Re: Strut Specialists - Strut install Question
One more thing... the chiltons manual says to match mark the lower strut mounting bolts for removal. What is the point of match marking these bolts? Doesn't seem like they can go in any different than they came out.
#3
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If your upper strut mounting hardware has the hole worn out to a O instead of the D, go get a new piece from Nissan. That holds the strut piston in place and also aids in tightening and removing the piston nut. (piston wount spin) I think that piece is about 30 - 40 bucks.
The word out should be facing out the wheel well. Basically you just line "out" up with the lower strut mount flanges (bolts) and your all set. That is very important to keep the angle of the spring correct. Might be the reason your piston wore that hole from D to O.
Also the end of the spring should line up with "out" and the notch on the upper spring perch. I'm sure this is definately why you have noises as well.
As far as the bolts go, just put them back in the same way they came out. ie. nut on the correct side.
Any other questions? PM me and I'll try to help you out.
The word out should be facing out the wheel well. Basically you just line "out" up with the lower strut mount flanges (bolts) and your all set. That is very important to keep the angle of the spring correct. Might be the reason your piston wore that hole from D to O.
Also the end of the spring should line up with "out" and the notch on the upper spring perch. I'm sure this is definately why you have noises as well.
As far as the bolts go, just put them back in the same way they came out. ie. nut on the correct side.
Any other questions? PM me and I'll try to help you out.
#4
Originally posted by njmaxseltd
If your upper strut mounting hardware has the hole worn out to a O instead of the D, go get a new piece from Nissan. That holds the strut piston in place and also aids in tightening and removing the piston nut. (piston wount spin) I think that piece is about 30 - 40 bucks.
The word out should be facing out the wheel well. Basically you just line "out" up with the lower strut mount flanges (bolts) and your all set. That is very important to keep the angle of the spring correct. Might be the reason your piston wore that hole from D to O.
Also the end of the spring should line up with "out" and the notch on the upper spring perch. I'm sure this is definately why you have noises as well.
As far as the bolts go, just put them back in the same way they came out. ie. nut on the correct side.
Any other questions? PM me and I'll try to help you out.
If your upper strut mounting hardware has the hole worn out to a O instead of the D, go get a new piece from Nissan. That holds the strut piston in place and also aids in tightening and removing the piston nut. (piston wount spin) I think that piece is about 30 - 40 bucks.
The word out should be facing out the wheel well. Basically you just line "out" up with the lower strut mount flanges (bolts) and your all set. That is very important to keep the angle of the spring correct. Might be the reason your piston wore that hole from D to O.
Also the end of the spring should line up with "out" and the notch on the upper spring perch. I'm sure this is definately why you have noises as well.
As far as the bolts go, just put them back in the same way they came out. ie. nut on the correct side.
Any other questions? PM me and I'll try to help you out.
I got a new insulator from Nissan yesterday, but found the threads on the strut were to damaged to properly torque down the top nut. Is there a problem with only replacing this one strut? I know that they say to only replace in pairs, but the old fronts seem strong just need to replace because of threads...I know it sounds cheap, but I hate to throw away a good strut and spend $90 if not necessary.
New insulator (95 SE part # 54320-40U00) was $47 at local dealer but found it for $27.96 at www.nissanparts.cc. Strut bearing $13 vs $22.
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