Anyone with a HHO intake kit?
05-22-2008, 02:27 PM
#241
My concern is that the HHO kits around don't have enough safeguards in place for me to put this in my car. I have dealt with complex kits before - I put a water injection kit on a turbocharged car with a standalone ECU. But I did have a low boost program with more conservative fuel curves for when my WI kit ran out of water/ethanol. I don't see that in this HHO kit.
Also, Im not extremely serious about this, It is just that I enjoy messing with this stuff and its sort of a hobby. If I get good gains of mpg and hp then great! If I dont, well then I have a cool toy to play with in the house.
I believe this thread is going to remain active for several months cause these projects are nothing that are going to be finished soon.l
05-22-2008, 02:36 PM
#243
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Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 4
This looks like a very interesting thread-- politics aside. 
This is my first post, and in way of introduction, let me say that I'm not a car guy. I don't like the grease, the smell, and the mess. I don't understand torque and my tweaking is limited to PC's. In fact, I'd much rather defrag a drive than check tire pressure. In fact the only thing I really have in common with the forum is that I drive a Frontier.
That said, I was doing some browsing about HHO and found your thread. I was looking for some info about it, and trying to find someone who had tried it for themselves. I like the attitudes of this group, and so I thought I'd chime in some about what I found out.
I think I can add some ideas to your discussion and I hope you can answer some of my 'how do I make this work' or 'what do you call that little thingy' under the hood.
As a start, HHO is also known as Brown's gas. Here's a link about that. http://www.brownsgas.com/brownsgaswaterasfuel.html
I have some directed comments to make, but I'll do them in other posts.
This is my first post, and in way of introduction, let me say that I'm not a car guy. I don't like the grease, the smell, and the mess. I don't understand torque and my tweaking is limited to PC's. In fact, I'd much rather defrag a drive than check tire pressure. In fact the only thing I really have in common with the forum is that I drive a Frontier.
That said, I was doing some browsing about HHO and found your thread. I was looking for some info about it, and trying to find someone who had tried it for themselves. I like the attitudes of this group, and so I thought I'd chime in some about what I found out.
I think I can add some ideas to your discussion and I hope you can answer some of my 'how do I make this work' or 'what do you call that little thingy' under the hood.
As a start, HHO is also known as Brown's gas. Here's a link about that. http://www.brownsgas.com/brownsgaswaterasfuel.html
I have some directed comments to make, but I'll do them in other posts.
05-22-2008, 04:02 PM
#244
good to have you, Ive noticed this thread is drawing alot of non-maxima owners to this forum. However I consider my self both a car guy (as I have tons of work and mods put into my maxima, and I do all labor myself) and I like to tinker around with experiments. Ill gradually be posting up my progress, most likely with pics, as I continue. Check out my vids on page 6 on the bottom if you havent looked through the whole thread yet and you can see what I have as of now.
05-22-2008, 04:44 PM
#245
Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: New Bedford, MA
Posts: 55
i posted on this thread earlier about being able to deal with $4.00 a gallon, i didnt want to come across as an *******, but this whole hydrogen intake sounds like a risky idea to me, but anyway good luck with the mod and i hope everything works out good for you, and believe me im not soe rich kid who just wants to sit back and pay so much money for gas its just the way it is and unlike some of you ive accepted it
05-22-2008, 11:05 PM
#246
Interesting thread but a few concerns:
- Alternator drag increases as current draw increases. You are not using "free" unused energy from your alternator, a 10Amp draw will make your engine work harder to spin the alternator
- I'm not comfortable with letting engine vacuum simply pull in as much HHO as is generated by the electrodes. Without a proper metering system like a "fuel injector" for your HHO, there's no safe method of ensuring AFR's don't get out of whack
- You are installing devices to trick your O2's into reading richer than they are so the ECU runs the motor leaner. Great idea for saving gas but see point above - how do you ensure that:
1. Your HHO injection is precise enough to keep AFR's safe
2. Your HHO gas quality is consistent. What if you get a bad batch of water/baking soda or your electrodes start to deteriorate. Now, you may only have HHO gas that is 50% as "potent" as the last batch and you run your engine dangerously lean
3. The ECU is smart enough to revert to gasoline only mode when your water bottle runs empty
Ideally, you'd need a feedback system tied into the ECU that can safely meter the amount of enrichment that the HHO system provides and cuts back on gasoline. Without that, I think you run a high risk of leaning out.
IMO, it's too much complexity for little gain.
- Alternator drag increases as current draw increases. You are not using "free" unused energy from your alternator, a 10Amp draw will make your engine work harder to spin the alternator
- I'm not comfortable with letting engine vacuum simply pull in as much HHO as is generated by the electrodes. Without a proper metering system like a "fuel injector" for your HHO, there's no safe method of ensuring AFR's don't get out of whack
- You are installing devices to trick your O2's into reading richer than they are so the ECU runs the motor leaner. Great idea for saving gas but see point above - how do you ensure that:
1. Your HHO injection is precise enough to keep AFR's safe
2. Your HHO gas quality is consistent. What if you get a bad batch of water/baking soda or your electrodes start to deteriorate. Now, you may only have HHO gas that is 50% as "potent" as the last batch and you run your engine dangerously lean
3. The ECU is smart enough to revert to gasoline only mode when your water bottle runs empty
Ideally, you'd need a feedback system tied into the ECU that can safely meter the amount of enrichment that the HHO system provides and cuts back on gasoline. Without that, I think you run a high risk of leaning out.
IMO, it's too much complexity for little gain.
You are forgetting hho is a gas (around 120 octane from what I hear), all you are doing is substituting one combustable gas for another, I will be checking my afrs since I have a wideband installed. The hho is cheap/free that is being substitued for the more expensive liquid gas, so afrs shouldn't really be an issue if the hho is being produced properly. I would suggest all running an hho have an ammeter installed, this will show if you are producing hho from the current draw, you should be in the 10-15A range depending on the setup.
Our car also have a knock sensor.
in regards to running empty, some guys run meth injection through their windshield washer resevoir, I'm sure there is a way to rig up the sensor to read when you are low. but once again, your ammeter reading would clue you in, and a hho booster design like smacksbooster has a view gauge on the side where you can see the fluid level. There are so many possibilities to fine tune this for monitoring. You can get a fuel level kit and install that on booster, all it is is a variable resistor on a float, get you a 2 or 3 gauge pod a pillar and you are set. Ammeter, fluid/fuel level, and wideband afr.
05-23-2008, 09:04 AM
#247
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Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 4
I was reading on several other sites that the HHO cell can be run on 1-1/2 to 2 Volts. I know some people have been concerned about power consumption from the alternator, and while that is a concern for me as well (the Frontier has an 80A alternator), I'm also concerned about a byproduct of 'too much' voltage -- heat.
As I see it (and someone correct me if I'm wrong), there are several 'regulators' that you can build in your cell:
1. size of plates (surface area?)
2. electrolyte
3. applied voltage
4. current drain
In all the models I've seen, battery voltage (12-13+V) is being applied. If you had 6 cells in series that would be fine, but is that what everyone is planning to do? Have 6 cells?
What I would like to do is build simple, low-cost easily reproducible cells. First I'd add one, then one more at a time until I there was no more benefit. The water4gas sites show configurations for up to 6 cells, but of course space gets to be a problem.
If it turns out that you only have room from 1 cell, would you want to put 12V across it if only 2V is required? Sure it would work, but it would be like watering your flower bed with a fire hose -- it ends up wet but your flowers are all stems.
So... first up, I'm going to build a variable power supply and get a cell operating at 2V then give that a whirl. Of course, if 2V isn't available under the hood somewhere I'll have to 'create' a supply for that too.
In case anyone is interested, I found a couple of links with instructions to convert a PC power supply into a variable 'bench' power supply. http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Com...b-Power-Supply
http://web2.murraystate.edu/andy.bat...owersupply.htm
And here's one about power supplies:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compute...ply#AT_vs._ATX
The ATX power supply has a 3.3V output which is close to what I want. With a resistor or LED/light I can probably get that down to the 2V that I want. Of course, if it's a inefficient power supply, it may end up where I want it without any other modifications.
As I see it (and someone correct me if I'm wrong), there are several 'regulators' that you can build in your cell:
1. size of plates (surface area?)
2. electrolyte
3. applied voltage
4. current drain
In all the models I've seen, battery voltage (12-13+V) is being applied. If you had 6 cells in series that would be fine, but is that what everyone is planning to do? Have 6 cells?
What I would like to do is build simple, low-cost easily reproducible cells. First I'd add one, then one more at a time until I there was no more benefit. The water4gas sites show configurations for up to 6 cells, but of course space gets to be a problem.
If it turns out that you only have room from 1 cell, would you want to put 12V across it if only 2V is required? Sure it would work, but it would be like watering your flower bed with a fire hose -- it ends up wet but your flowers are all stems.
So... first up, I'm going to build a variable power supply and get a cell operating at 2V then give that a whirl. Of course, if 2V isn't available under the hood somewhere I'll have to 'create' a supply for that too.
In case anyone is interested, I found a couple of links with instructions to convert a PC power supply into a variable 'bench' power supply. http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Com...b-Power-Supply
http://web2.murraystate.edu/andy.bat...owersupply.htm
And here's one about power supplies:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compute...ply#AT_vs._ATX
The ATX power supply has a 3.3V output which is close to what I want. With a resistor or LED/light I can probably get that down to the 2V that I want. Of course, if it's a inefficient power supply, it may end up where I want it without any other modifications.
05-23-2008, 09:47 AM
#248
Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 73
Before, the single hose was before MAF, there are gains, but not 9mpg.
Remember, every car is different, other car may want it to be before MAF.
I get 9mpg gain, when running between 65-70mph, 3k-3.3k rpm. I'm on highway everyday anyway. for going idle or streets, i think it's doing probably 6-9mpg gain. I dont have the car anymore, and the booster went with it, its a true 6 series cell (fully compartmentalize), custom built container.
Actually, I just tested my Altima last week using smack configs, plan was to run from full to empty tank, highway, 75mph cruise controlled, 800ml/min hho gas output, 14amps, hho host just before the MAF. But since im using the temporary $4 wallmart container, heat from engine warped the container after 100miles(1.5hrs), and leaked. I stopped the test, pulled the booster out.
There is actually noticeable gains, since my Altima has trip computer, But, I would like to post the official result if i'm able to run from full tank to empty, with hho. Because I know for a fact how much mileage I can get from a full tank of 87octane petrol, I take readings everytime and after I ran empty (yeah, I know i'm crazy). with the help of my trip computer (or scanguage if have one), just do the math from there. I'm working on the permanent acrylic container right now.
My concern is that the HHO kits around don't have enough safeguards in place for me to put this in my car. I have dealt with complex kits before - I put a water injection kit on a turbocharged car with a standalone ECU. But I did have a low boost program with more conservative fuel curves for when my WI kit ran out of water/ethanol. I don't see that in this HHO kit.
If you keep on demanding for more, please spend more $ if you want it the way it should, because it can always be done.
And get a tungsten carbide and house your hho gen. in there!
.
Last edited by n0ypi; 05-23-2008 at 10:39 PM.
05-23-2008, 10:45 AM
#250
You can regulate voltage by adding more plates to one booster. n0ypi posted about it a page or two ago.
05-23-2008, 02:33 PM
#251
I keep seeing this brought up. So what you're saying is that my stereo system which draws at least 300 watts RMS, roughly 25 amps makes my engine work harder, therefore decreasing gas mileage? This doesn't make since because my gas mileage didn't decreased when I installed my stereo. Please explain your theory further.
05-23-2008, 02:42 PM
#252
hey guys. thought you might be interested in seeing my current setup. Ive added an arrestor and an oil/water separator. The tubes are brown cause they are burned on the inside when my friends wanted to see me backflash it. Also that black rope is just a temp. thing to show how it will be put together.
ive also added more to the inside of the containers but obviously you cant see that in the picture.
If you cant tell, Im trying to make my device of high quality, something that I wont be afraid to put in my car.
So far I have maybe spent $40-60 on it. I wish I would have kept all my receipts but I have already thrown some out so im just guessing.
ive also added more to the inside of the containers but obviously you cant see that in the picture.
If you cant tell, Im trying to make my device of high quality, something that I wont be afraid to put in my car.
So far I have maybe spent $40-60 on it. I wish I would have kept all my receipts but I have already thrown some out so im just guessing.
Last edited by black_maxed95; 05-23-2008 at 02:48 PM.
05-23-2008, 03:06 PM
#253
Even if the alternator does work harder to create gas and more energy is required. The HHO gas will offset the gasoline being used and I will therefore see an increase in my mpg. Regardless if the HHO system doesn't increase my mpg, in the strictest sense of the word, it does decrease my gasoline use age and therefore, saves me money.
05-23-2008, 03:42 PM
#254
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 4
In the diagram on page 8, you can see that the +VE strap is connected to the rightmost plate which connects to the leftmost plate via the strap on the bottom. Likewise the -VE strap is connected to the innermost two plates via the metal nuts. But none of the other plates appear to be connected electrically to anything else.
Or maybe I'm reading the diagram wrong.
I'll have to go back and read n0ypi's comments about how to adjust voltage by adding plates
05-23-2008, 04:14 PM
#255
Speaking of the plates, I was looking at the Smack cell and I can't figure out how all the plates are charged. http://smacksboosters.110mb.com/Smack.pdf
In the diagram on page 8, you can see that the +VE strap is connected to the rightmost plate which connects to the leftmost plate via the strap on the bottom. Likewise the -VE strap is connected to the innermost two plates via the metal nuts. But none of the other plates appear to be connected electrically to anything else.
In the diagram on page 8, you can see that the +VE strap is connected to the rightmost plate which connects to the leftmost plate via the strap on the bottom. Likewise the -VE strap is connected to the innermost two plates via the metal nuts. But none of the other plates appear to be connected electrically to anything else.
One word....Magic.
05-23-2008, 06:54 PM
#257
I have a question, I have the plate design that right now is: +nn-nn+
but as you can see in the pics, I have room to add plenty of more plates, is it to my advantage to add more plates? or would I be dropping the voltage too low by adding more? I will be running this off my car battery eventually.
but as you can see in the pics, I have room to add plenty of more plates, is it to my advantage to add more plates? or would I be dropping the voltage too low by adding more? I will be running this off my car battery eventually.
05-23-2008, 06:59 PM
#258
Speaking of the plates, I was looking at the Smack cell and I can't figure out how all the plates are charged. http://smacksboosters.110mb.com/Smack.pdf
In the diagram on page 8, you can see that the +VE strap is connected to the rightmost plate which connects to the leftmost plate via the strap on the bottom. Likewise the -VE strap is connected to the innermost two plates via the metal nuts. But none of the other plates appear to be connected electrically to anything else.
Or maybe I'm reading the diagram wrong.
I'll have to go back and read n0ypi's comments about how to adjust voltage by adding plates
In the diagram on page 8, you can see that the +VE strap is connected to the rightmost plate which connects to the leftmost plate via the strap on the bottom. Likewise the -VE strap is connected to the innermost two plates via the metal nuts. But none of the other plates appear to be connected electrically to anything else.
Or maybe I'm reading the diagram wrong.
I'll have to go back and read n0ypi's comments about how to adjust voltage by adding plates
05-23-2008, 07:11 PM
#259
I have a question, I have the plate design that right now is: +nn-nn+
but as you can see in the pics, I have room to add plenty of more plates, is it to my advantage to add more plates? or would I be dropping the voltage too low by adding more? I will be running this off my car battery eventually.
but as you can see in the pics, I have room to add plenty of more plates, is it to my advantage to add more plates? or would I be dropping the voltage too low by adding more? I will be running this off my car battery eventually.
05-23-2008, 07:26 PM
#260
I would just test what you have and see what the current draw is, you also have to test to see what your hho output is. Mine seems to be putting out quite a bit and I only have 3 plates in the clamshell design -+-. Hopefully you are not using those metal screws to hold the plates together because it will short circuit. More plates should yield more hydrogen production because you are increasing the surface area for production to occur. Smacks design has quite a few more plates than you currently have.
05-24-2008, 10:49 AM
#261
Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 73
you are using threaded metal rod correct? I know you insulate the other plates from touching the metal rod.
Let me guess, not a lot of gas output, neutral plates are almost non functional, high current/wattage consumption, and then you'll see heat buildup.
Try it out and let it run for about 15-30 minutes.
Let me guess, not a lot of gas output, neutral plates are almost non functional, high current/wattage consumption, and then you'll see heat buildup.
Try it out and let it run for about 15-30 minutes.
Last edited by n0ypi; 05-24-2008 at 10:53 AM.
05-24-2008, 11:38 AM
#262
you are using threaded metal rod correct? I know you insulate the other plates from touching the metal rod.
Let me guess, not a lot of gas output, neutral plates are almost non functional, high current/wattage consumption, and then you'll see heat buildup.
Try it out and let it run for about 15-30 minutes.
Let me guess, not a lot of gas output, neutral plates are almost non functional, high current/wattage consumption, and then you'll see heat buildup.
Try it out and let it run for about 15-30 minutes.
05-24-2008, 06:20 PM
#263
Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 73
You can use plastic hanger, you dont really need a threaded rod, just run the plastic rod through all the plates and use a zip ties to hold them up. That'll do. If you have a tap screw, you can thread the plastic rod, or just stop by lowes, they have 1/4 tap/drill bit.
coincidently, one guy in you tube thought its okay to use metal rods, and been complaining about heat buildup and almost no gas. I posted my comment, and he still doesn't wan't to listen. I'll leave it up to him.
He's using metal rods... watcht the video, and the comments.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=_gFIfKbAH6c
coincidently, one guy in you tube thought its okay to use metal rods, and been complaining about heat buildup and almost no gas. I posted my comment, and he still doesn't wan't to listen. I'll leave it up to him.
He's using metal rods... watcht the video, and the comments.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=_gFIfKbAH6c
I couldnt find nylon rods, I looked. So instead I insulated a metal bolt. I see your point tho, I will try to find something else non-metallic. I havent tested it out since Ive added the new stuff and re-did the plates. So I dont know about the gas output/functionallity. I did test the plates with an ohmmeter and all the plates are truly separate like they should be. I need to run to the hardware store again for other stuff so I will look again for a nylon bolt. Where did you guys get your nylon bolts?
Last edited by n0ypi; 05-24-2008 at 06:30 PM.
05-24-2008, 06:51 PM
#265
Member
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 73
try grainger
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...on&L1=Nylon%2C
Which size are you using?
I'm using 1/4 nylon rod,
I have 5/16 if you want, i can sell it to you at cost.
just send me priv message.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...on&L1=Nylon%2C
Which size are you using?
I'm using 1/4 nylon rod,
I have 5/16 if you want, i can sell it to you at cost.
just send me priv message.
Last edited by n0ypi; 05-24-2008 at 07:19 PM.
05-25-2008, 01:49 PM
#266
Because my buddy is building one and he said they were all out as well.
05-25-2008, 02:29 PM
#267
I know they had some at Lowes when i was gathering my parts a couple weeks ago. It's in the drawers though, not out in the open. They were a couple drawers away from the nylon washers. But maybe a bunch of people are building cells now? Because my buddy is building one and he said they were all out as well.
Because my buddy is building one and he said they were all out as well.
.ill try home depot (no lowes here) or else ill just use a plastic coat hanger like n0ypi said or find something similar.
05-26-2008, 06:11 PM
#268
question.
Where are you guys going to put these things??
I finished up my smacks booster today (nice incident with the sheet metal that made me about .005 of an ounce lighter), and am looking at mounting it under the battery. Where else is there to mount it???
help!
I finished up my smacks booster today (nice incident with the sheet metal that made me about .005 of an ounce lighter), and am looking at mounting it under the battery. Where else is there to mount it???
help!
05-26-2008, 09:22 PM
#270
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 4
I was looking at gas prices at www.gasbuddy.com, and saw an ad on the page that claims 'Save 80cents per gallon'.
That link takes you to www.thegassecret.net/index.html
It's for a gas additive called Ethos. Have any of you heard of it?
I'm not giving up on the HHO cell idea, cuz a gallon of water costs less than this additive (~$27 per quart), but I'm just curious about how you all feel about gas additives in general.
That link takes you to www.thegassecret.net/index.html
It's for a gas additive called Ethos. Have any of you heard of it?
I'm not giving up on the HHO cell idea, cuz a gallon of water costs less than this additive (~$27 per quart), but I'm just curious about how you all feel about gas additives in general.
05-27-2008, 06:22 AM
#271
I was looking at gas prices at www.gasbuddy.com, and saw an ad on the page that claims 'Save 80cents per gallon'.
That link takes you to www.thegassecret.net/index.html
It's for a gas additive called Ethos. Have any of you heard of it?
I'm not giving up on the HHO cell idea, cuz a gallon of water costs less than this additive (~$27 per quart), but I'm just curious about how you all feel about gas additives in general.
That link takes you to www.thegassecret.net/index.html
It's for a gas additive called Ethos. Have any of you heard of it?
I'm not giving up on the HHO cell idea, cuz a gallon of water costs less than this additive (~$27 per quart), but I'm just curious about how you all feel about gas additives in general.
05-27-2008, 06:31 AM
#272
That's actually genius... Not much space in the engine compartment for some reason. Moving the battery to the trunk will open up more then enough space. I think I will do just that.
BTW, I have just received the o2 Sencor enhancers from e-bay. Looks like I will be the first to see if these can be a cheap substitute for EFIE devices.
BTW, I have just received the o2 Sencor enhancers from e-bay. Looks like I will be the first to see if these can be a cheap substitute for EFIE devices.
05-27-2008, 08:15 AM
#273
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 1
The ethos additive has been independently tested and reviewed by several local news affiliates and it works. I believe it costs around $20 for a bottle that treats 160 gallons of fuel. There are several youtube videos of local news affiliates (nbc and fox especially) who have verified the manufacturer's claims of lowered emissions and improved fuel economy.
On the HHO injection, I have a 1996 I-30, so I've been following this thread very closely. I'm anxious to see the results! I'm going to be building one from Smack's plans.
This video could be doctored, but there is a very astounding youtube video from Punch HHO in which the guy has a “Scan Guage” device which monitors mpg in real time attached to his Jeep Grand Cherokee. The Jeep is outfitted with an HHO injection kit. He has a switch that turns the HHO cell on and off. You can see the effects on mpg in real time on the scan guage. Engaging the device nets an instant boost of 10-15mpg on the scan guage. My other car is a Jeep GC so I'm very interested in anything that can improve its abismal 12mpg.
YouTube - HHO Jeep 10+ MPG with a flip of "the switch"
On the HHO injection, I have a 1996 I-30, so I've been following this thread very closely. I'm anxious to see the results! I'm going to be building one from Smack's plans.
This video could be doctored, but there is a very astounding youtube video from Punch HHO in which the guy has a “Scan Guage” device which monitors mpg in real time attached to his Jeep Grand Cherokee. The Jeep is outfitted with an HHO injection kit. He has a switch that turns the HHO cell on and off. You can see the effects on mpg in real time on the scan guage. Engaging the device nets an instant boost of 10-15mpg on the scan guage. My other car is a Jeep GC so I'm very interested in anything that can improve its abismal 12mpg.
YouTube - HHO Jeep 10+ MPG with a flip of "the switch"
Last edited by vestaviaScott; 05-27-2008 at 01:25 PM.
05-27-2008, 03:22 PM
#274
sorry to keep the off topic thing going, but I bought a 16oz bottle of ethos. I looked into it and it seems decently legit. I paid $24 for 16oz on amazon.com (cheaper than ebay) and its suppose to treat 160 gallons, or in my case, about the next 4400 miles. I figured even if it raises my milage by only 1mpg, it will break even in price. I will post up results when I have enough data to comment on it. Wish me luck 
Still working on the HHO tho too
Still working on the HHO tho too
05-27-2008, 03:55 PM
#276
Just so you guys know, I have everything I need to install this in my car. Just waiting for time to do it. Also, I did one final pre-hho test to see what kind of mileage I'm getting currently. Using questionably legal techniques for saving gas, I've gone 440 miles on 16 gallons of gas with equal parts highway and city. That's about 27mpg average. Given the fact that its nigh on impossible to control all the variables in city driving and get an accurate reading, I'm going to do all my initial HHO testing and reporting with highway mileage. Over the course of three highway only runs, my average mpg is 31mpg. According to Smack's site, I should see a 20% increase in mileage at least. Therefore, in a week or two, I should be reporting at least 37mpg, which is funny, considering I had a 1984 BMW that got the same mpg.
05-27-2008, 04:02 PM
#277
Just so you guys know, I have everything I need to install this in my car. Just waiting for time to do it. Also, I did one final pre-hho test to see what kind of mileage I'm getting currently. Using questionably legal techniques for saving gas, I've gone 440 miles on 16 gallons of gas with equal parts highway and city. That's about 27mpg average. Given the fact that its nigh on impossible to control all the variables in city driving and get an accurate reading, I'm going to do all my initial HHO testing and reporting with highway mileage. Over the course of three highway only runs, my average mpg is 31mpg. According to Smack's site, I should see a 20% increase in mileage at least. Therefore, in a week or two, I should be reporting at least 37mpg, which is funny, considering I had a 1984 BMW that got the same mpg.
05-28-2008, 12:07 AM
#278
I have 2 EFIEs I will be installing and tuning via the OBDII port with my laptop. The only other gas saving items on the car are an aftermarket y-pipe, full synthetic oil, and a bypassed knock sensor.
O, additionally, I'll be upgrading to a 5th gen airbox. No more WAI for me.
O, additionally, I'll be upgrading to a 5th gen airbox. No more WAI for me.
05-28-2008, 05:34 PM
#279
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (29)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
Posts: 4,572
Yeah I have.
The device wasn't operational for 100% of time, but there is no change in MPG because of the oxygen sensor issue.
Currently the engine is forcing fuel in to reach the optimal reading on the sensors.
There's more setbacks. The second device has just burnt down as well. I must say I do not recommend any one to get the starter's kit from driveonwater.com . The quality and the materials used are low.
I do intend to continue with the project however.
The device wasn't operational for 100% of time, but there is no change in MPG because of the oxygen sensor issue.
Currently the engine is forcing fuel in to reach the optimal reading on the sensors.
There's more setbacks. The second device has just burnt down as well. I must say I do not recommend any one to get the starter's kit from driveonwater.com . The quality and the materials used are low.
I do intend to continue with the project however.
05-28-2008, 06:54 PM
#280
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 13
KRRZ350: I'm keeping an open mind and I'm going to actually build one myself to prove or disprove it. I'll withhold judging someone else's efforts until I've done the due diligence myself. Wish others would follow suit, but I'm not holding my breath.